So, owners what range are you getting ?

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My "unsustainable" commute to work is 74 miles round trip. Using ECO mode, I got to work with 54 miles left. Of the 37 one way miles, 30 are fwy, which I drove at 67 MPH using the cruise control. The rest is street driving. I'm pleased I can make my round trip commute without needing to charge at work (until battery has some capacity loss). Good news is I can plug in at work, which I have been, so I can can go to lunch as well instead of keeping the car parked the entire time.
 
GeekEV said:
gascant said:
hmmm, I'm thinking the strategy of leaving for the office a little later (when I-880 is a little slower) might be very workable. 63 miles RT and sounds like it will be a breeze at 55 MPH. I've gotten up to 66 MPG one way in the Prius under similar conditions (but that was only once).
That should be no problem at all. Even with climate control. Speed and acceleration seems to be the primary range killer, unsurprisingly. Eco mode does a wonderful (if somewhat boring) job of discouraging both. As previously observed and reported elsewhere, the heater also has more impact than the AC.
I was so excited during my test drive in October that I completely forgot to test out eco mode. Does it make that big of a difference? I'm usually pretty slow off the line (especially with the Prius, but even with my wife's Altima Hybrid) but I like to have the juice for maneuvering at highway speeds.
 
The two biggest differences you will notice is that the first half or so of the accelerator pedal travel gives you much softer acceleration to help reduce fast starts and acceleration power usage. Though, if you push through that to full travel, you will still have full acceleration as in regular D mode. The other is that regeneration is more aggressive in ECO mode. In D you get no regen until you press the brake pedal. In ECO you get some regen just by taking you foot off of the accelerator or holding it slightly depressed. Thus you can modulate between moderate regen, coasting, and acceleration with just one pedal. Pressing the brake pedal some still gives you more regen though, of course. One smaller difference in ECO is that the Climate Control parameters are shifted to make it less aggressive in holding a preset temperature exactly, to save some energy. This is much more obvious in heating mode than cooling mode.



gascant said:
I was so excited during my test drive in October that I completely forgot to test out eco mode. Does it make that big of a difference? I'm usually pretty slow off the line (especially with the Prius, but even with my wife's Altima Hybrid) but I like to have the juice for maneuvering at highway speeds.
 
mogur said:
The two biggest differences you will notice is that the first half or so of the accelerator pedal travel gives you much softer acceleration to help reduce fast starts and acceleration power usage. Though, if you push through that to full travel, you will still have full acceleration as in regular D mode. The other is that regeneration is more aggressive in ECO mode. In D you get no regen until you press the brake pedal. In ECO you get some regen just by taking you foot off of the accelerator or holding it slightly depressed. Thus you can modulate between moderate regen, coasting, and acceleration with just one pedal. Pressing the brake pedal some still gives you more regen though, of course. One smaller difference in ECO is that the Climate Control parameters are shifted to make it less aggressive in holding a preset temperature exactly, to save some energy. This is much more obvious in heating mode than cooling mode.



gascant said:
I was so excited during my test drive in October that I completely forgot to test out eco mode. Does it make that big of a difference? I'm usually pretty slow off the line (especially with the Prius, but even with my wife's Altima Hybrid) but I like to have the juice for maneuvering at highway speeds.

I also drive mostly in D, but keep my hand on the 'shifter' and go to ECO when I want to slow down and maximize regen. If I need to maximize range, I'll use ECO all the time, but switch into D momentarily if I need some quick acceleration.

Learning to use them both enhances regen AND range. :mrgreen:
 
I initially thought I'd almost never use ECO unless I was desperate for every mile of range for a particular trip. With close to a thousand miles now though, I find I have changed my philosophy and am using ECO most of the time. I like being able to modulate the pedal to easily control regen, coast and power with just one foot. Also, for me at least and my terrain, Cruise Control seems to work better and more efficiently in ECO mode. (I admit that I am a big Cruise addict and use it frequently even though I know it costs a little in range...) I've seen no real difference in Climate Control performance between the two modes but it has been so temperate since I got the car that I would not expect to. Come summer here in the valley, I may change my mind...

Now I'm off to change that pathetic and embarrassing excuse for a horn!!! I opted for the PIAA 400/500 Hz. 115db pair.

Jimmydreams said:
I also drive mostly in D, but keep my hand on the 'shifter' and go to ECO when I want to slow down and maximize regen. If I need to maximize range, I'll use ECO all the time, but switch into D momentarily if I need some quick acceleration.
 
mogur said:
The two biggest differences you will notice is that the first half or so of the accelerator pedal travel gives you much softer acceleration to help reduce fast starts and acceleration power usage. Though, if you push through that to full travel, you will still have full acceleration as in regular D mode. The other is that regeneration is more aggressive in ECO mode. In D you get no regen until you press the brake pedal. In ECO you get some regen just by taking you foot off of the accelerator or holding it slightly depressed.


So is hypermiling different in the LEAF from what it is in the Prius or other hybrid? It sounds like shifting between the two modes helps, or am I over-interpreting? I don't consider myself a hypermiler, but I do consistently achieve 50-52 in the Prius and most of my driving is at 67 MPH on freeways.
 
Jimmydreams said:
I also drive mostly in D, but keep my hand on the 'shifter' and go to ECO when I want to slow down and maximize regen. If I need to maximize range, I'll use ECO all the time, but switch into D momentarily if I need some quick acceleration.
I live in a pretty hilly area, and I use ECO just like downshifting. In other words, I normally drive in D, but if the hill is steep enough that I would ordinarily downshift an automatic, I shift into ECO.
 
gascant said:
So is hypermiling different in the LEAF from what it is in the Prius or other hybrid? It sounds like shifting between the two modes helps, or am I over-interpreting? I don't consider myself a hypermiler, but I do consistently achieve 50-52 in the Prius and most of my driving is at 67 MPH on freeways.

Hypermiling in a Leaf is much simpler than in a Prius.

The definition of a hypermiler is a driver that exceeds the EPA ratings for his car.. an elite hypermiler would rarely use regen in his Leaf, he would drive it as if the car had no brakes at all, and would use air and tire drag to slow him down. He would only use regen on the down trip from Pikes's Peak as a last resort.. regen is not 100% effective in recovering energy.

I believe hypermilers in Japan are getting 190 miles of range with the Leaf.
 
mogur said:
...............

Now I'm off to change that pathetic and embarrassing excuse for a horn!!! I opted for the PIAA 400/500 Hz. 115db pair.

............
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Please post photos and instructions about the horn upgrade for those of us mechanically challenged :)
 
gasmiser1 said:
mogur said:
Now I'm off to change that pathetic and embarrassing excuse for a horn!!! I opted for the PIAA 400/500 Hz. 115db pair.
Please post photos and instructions about the horn upgrade for those of us mechanically challenged :)
+1, please start a new thread about upgrading the horn. I'm sure it will be popular.
 
Today I left home with 106 miles in ECO mode.
My commute distance was 16.6 miles one way (all ECO, no highway, max speed 45, avg around 30)
Along the way, the average efficiency reported by the trip computer increased from 4.1 to 4.2.
That basically implies my trip efficiency was probably even higher than 4.2
Now when I finally got to work, the remaining miles shown 73 (in ECO!, 67 in normal)

That is 106-73 = 33 miles reported on 16.6 mile trip in ECO mode with 4.2+ miles/kwh efficiency.
So excuse me, Nissan?! What the hell? :evil:
So, the original 106 miles reported are based on what? Am I supposed to drive 8 miles/kwh to match that?
 
jason98 said:
Today I left home with 106 miles in ECO mode.
My commute distance was 16.6 miles one way (all ECO, no highway, max speed 45, avg around 30)
Along the way, the average efficiency reported by the trip computer increased from 4.1 to 4.2.
That basically implies my trip efficiency was probably even higher than 4.2
Now when I finally got to work, the remaining miles shown 73 (in ECO!, 67 in normal)

That is 106-73 = 33 miles reported on 16.6 mile trip in ECO mode with 4.2+ miles/kwh efficiency.
So excuse me, Nissan?! What the hell? :evil:
So, the original 106 miles reported are based on what? Am I supposed to drive 8 miles/kwh to match that?


that 106 mile estimate was based on the driving you did the previous day. now, you did not tell us about anything else you did; climate controls, etc.

i also notice a fast drop off the top of the pack. a more realistic measure is assuming 100 miles on a full pack in eco mode and street speeds. doing this, i get 90+ miles regularly.

now, i dont drive that far, but taking the estimate of range left verses the miles i have driven usually adds to something in the 90's and i always get a range estimate of 110 miles + from a full charge.
 
Fast drop off at the very top of the pack is attributable to two things:

1) You get no regeneration at all for the first ~1.5 miles.

2) You get some charge bleed between when recharging stops at night and when you use the vehicle the next day. The best way to minimize this is to make sure charging stops as close to the time you're going to set out in the morning as possible. I have also found that charge bleed is eliminated as a side benefit of preconditioning the passenger cabin while still plugged in.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
now, you did not tell us about anything else you did; climate controls, etc.

Sorry, I thought 4.2 m/kwh kind of implies that I have the climate control shut off.
So, no climate control, lights auto (that is shut off), XM radio was ON. What else?
 
mwalsh said:
Fast drop off at the very top of the pack is attributable to two things:

It was actually more like a fast drop off towards the end of the trip. Starting miles went without surprises.

mwalsh said:
1) You get no regeneration at all for the first ~1.5 miles.

Oh, I was in ECO and I had it a lot.

mwalsh said:
2) You get some charge bleed between when recharging stops at night and when you use the vehicle the next day.

Not the case. The car was still charging in the morning.
 
jason98 said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
now, you did not tell us about anything else you did; climate controls, etc.

Sorry, I thought 4.2 m/kwh kind of implies that I have the climate control shut off.
So, no climate control, lights auto (that is shut off), XM radio was ON. What else?

which is exactly my point. your drive is something i do regularly and w/o climate controls my car tells me that i am doing more like 4.7-5.1 mpk.

the reading u r looking was reset daily? if so, then u r not driving well. how many stops, lights, etc. do you have? they will really kill your performance especially when u r in the 5 mpk range.

on my drive home from work, i can get up to 5.2-5.4 mpk range if i dont catch any lights. for each stop i will lose .1-.2 mpk on a 10 mile trip.
 
jason98 said:
mwalsh said:
2) You get some charge bleed between when recharging stops at night and when you use the vehicle the next day.

Not the case. The car was still charging in the morning.

ok, so u did not have a 100% SOC. that explains a lot. at any SOC above around 92% or so, you dont get full regen capacity. my first bar is long gone before i get all the regen circles on the power meter
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
ok, so u did not have a 100% SOC. that explains a lot. at any SOC above around 92% or so, you dont get full regen capacity. my first bar is long gone before i get all the regen circles on the power meter

Ah, I missed that too. So that would explain regen from the get-go.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
which is exactly my point. your drive is something i do regularly and w/o climate controls my car tells me that i am doing more like 4.7-5.1 mpk.

the reading u r looking was reset daily?

Nope, never reset it so it shows my life (300+ miles) average pretty much. So 4.2 average is considered low?

DaveinOlyWA said:
how many stops, lights, etc. do you have? they will really kill your performance especially when u r in the 5 mpk range.

Yes, I had some stops. Maybe 25 or so totally. But wait. Is it supposed to be 100 mile range on urban LA4 cycle? I believe one has even more stops than I had (if adjusted to my distance)

But if I extrapolate my experience to the remaining charge left, I will be only able to drive around 2.5 more trips like that, giving me total of 60 miles. Now supposedly I had 90% of battery charged in the morning. I would only have around 66 miles on a full charge, again this is with no climate control, doing 4.2+ average, effectively making my pack capacity as high as 15.7....

DaveinOlyWA said:
ok, so u did not have a 100% SOC. that explains a lot

Confused. What does it exactly explains? If I had 90% of capacity then I had plenty of capacity for regen.
 
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