The 62kWh Battery Topic

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dmacarthur said:
the 3 cylinder 1.5 turbo is an interesting engine with cvt is quite an interesting set up for an SUV

I know that you specified "not for this forum" but I can not help mentioning that we have a 2013 Juke with the 1.5 turbo with CVT (although I think it is a 4 cylinder, should know but we use it so seldom that I can't remember). I think that almost any other method of transferring energy to the wheels is more efficient than the CVT- does the new Rogue actually get decent mileage? the Juke reads out, on the dash, mileage in the low 20s, and the transmission can't even be used to slow down by downshifting. We drive it maybe 2-3000 miles per year, when there is deep snow or ice, so....

Friends of ours with a recent year Juke have just replaced the CVT for the second time. Not a particularly happy experience for them. I hope yours holds up better.
 
Somewhat OT: Tesla Powerwalls have no shortage of degradation issues, if you happen to lose the lottery...

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/powerwall-2-available-energy-after-2-years.228580/

https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/total-pack-power-vs-ownership-lifetime.177000/

There are other examples.

Bottomline as far as I can tell: There's considerable confusion. Some folks have had terrible experience, others seem fine so far.

I am watching these as we are looking at possibly purchasing a Powerwall 2 and backup gateway next year.

Powerwall 2 currently has NMC chemistry. Rumor has it, they'll be going to LFP soon. Got my popcorn out...
 
dmacarthur said:
Almost exactly 40K miles and exactly 94% SOH today, 37 months since new.

Given these latest stats from you 2019, have you noticed any change on the GOM for range over the years or are the estimates pretty consistent with what you are accustomed to? Not that we take the GOM as the true source of distance available here :lol: but I have wondered at what point something would start to be "noticeable" to the non-technical user of the Leaf? My wife's Leaf for example should be down at least 1 bar now, but you would never know as the range is always 150 miles (GOM) at full charge every time for her as she likes to keep it at 100% SoC all the time :?
 
My Gen I Leaf showed fewer estimated miles on the GOM as the battery degraded. I believe that the process of showing fewer estimated miles is usually slowed by the driver becoming more efficient over time.
 
I had a positive update on this last check...about to start working with Nissan to get the weak cell fixed....Real world range went from 185 miles to 135...about a 27% lost overnight when the cell failed. Now my battery % goes from 50 to 28% or lower in a couple of miles. THAT IS NOT RIGHT !!!

I brought it up with the tech earlier this year and his response was no code no problem and to use Eco mode....yeah that doesn't help.

This is my 5th new Nissan I've owned....I hope they do the right thing. How can I have full bars with this 27% lost in range....hmmmm Not Right!

 
Learjet said:
I had a positive update on this last check...about to start working with Nissan to get the weak cell fixed....Real world range went from 185 miles to 135...about a 27% lost overnight when the cell failed. Now my battery % goes from 50 to 28% or lower in a couple of miles. THAT IS NOT RIGHT !!!

I brought it up with the tech earlier this year and his response was no code no problem and to use Eco mode....yeah that doesn't help.

This is my 5th new Nissan I've owned....I hope they do the right thing. How can I have full bars with this 27% lost in range....hmmmm Not Right!

Remind me if this happened recently or if you have tried to correct the balancing issue yourself? I think I remember reading about this issue a few times here already.

I agree though, Nissan will sit on their hands until you make them do something. I remember reading the best way to get it to throw the code and get their attention was get the battery into a low, but not turtle mode or 0% low state of charge and find some hills to hammer on the accelerator to get that bad cell to dip so low, it hits turtle mode way too soon and throws a code. Of course, you'll want some backup help in case you get stranded somewhere. :?
 
yes, been discussed here in this thread...issue has been ongoing for several months now.

I've tried full discharge to shutoff then full charge a few times....no difference...keeps getting worse actually.

Lately I have been having to fully charge more often to be safe with the range I need.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Nissan also claimed 'mis-calibration' (although not using that specific word for it) with the 30kwh Canary Packs - while also replacing so many of them that they ran out of replacement packs. Let's see how this plays out before shouting "FUD".

From a "very" reliable source. Nissan had no clue the 30 kwh LBC algorithm was flawed until they got replaced packs back to their research facility to dissect to determine the problem only to find out many packs (with 4 bars lost) still had over 90% of their original capacity left. Unfortunately for them and many customers, it was a year before they got around to looking at many of the packs.

IOW; "claim" is no longer an accurate description.

On free DC charging; Its a lot more common than most seem to realize. On my last 100 DC charges, all were free except 5 and those 5 were all out of state (Oregon EVgo 4 EA 1) Volta is now putting out DC chargers that offer 30 mins free. We also have EVCS/Webasto/Aerovionment that is free until they complete their upgrade process to add CCS to the chademo only network. The process is nearly complete in OR (which was free since I elected to do my free 30 day trial at that time. ;) ) but hasn't even started in WA.
 
Learjet said:
I had a positive update on this last check...about to start working with Nissan to get the weak cell fixed....Real world range went from 185 miles to 135...about a 27% lost overnight when the cell failed. Now my battery % goes from 50 to 28% or lower in a couple of miles. THAT IS NOT RIGHT !!!

I brought it up with the tech earlier this year and his response was no code no problem and to use Eco mode....yeah that doesn't help.

This is my 5th new Nissan I've owned....I hope they do the right thing. How can I have full bars with this 27% lost in range....hmmmm Not Right!


This is the standard Nissan stance. In reality, the tech is hamstrung by Nissan policies. What you need to do is run the SOC down to 40ish%, then videotape the dash for evidence of rapid SOC decline.

Then take all that to the dealership and allow the tech to do a ride along. There have been a half dozen or so who were originally turned away who were successful following this process.
 
Thanks for the advice....I have a file with video evidence and that is what I'm planning to do as mentioned above.

I've been waiting as long as I could hoping to get a code to throw as it keeps getting worse.
 
Learjet said:
Thanks for the advice....I have a file with video evidence and that is what I'm planning to do as mentioned above.

I've been waiting as long as I could hoping to get a code to throw as it keeps getting worse.

From what I have seen, a code will only happen just before shutdown so not something you want to aspire to.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
Learjet said:
Thanks for the advice....I have a file with video evidence and that is what I'm planning to do as mentioned above.

I've been waiting as long as I could hoping to get a code to throw as it keeps getting worse.

From what I have seen, a code will only happen just before shutdown so not something you want to aspire to.

Probably would want a friend to help in case you do get stuck somewhere, or at least have tools handy to reboot the 12V system just in case. If everyone wasn't so far away from each other, I would be glad to offer help by towing his Leaf with my Leaf to the dealership afterwards if necessary. :D
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
Learjet said:
Thanks for the advice....I have a file with video evidence and that is what I'm planning to do as mentioned above.

I've been waiting as long as I could hoping to get a code to throw as it keeps getting worse.

From what I have seen, a code will only happen just before shutdown so not something you want to aspire to.

Last time I ran it low as I could then let it shutdown in the driveway with the Heat blasting with the windows open. I might try that again when we get some cold weather.
 
Learjet said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
Learjet said:
Thanks for the advice....I have a file with video evidence and that is what I'm planning to do as mentioned above.

I've been waiting as long as I could hoping to get a code to throw as it keeps getting worse.

From what I have seen, a code will only happen just before shutdown so not something you want to aspire to.

Last time I ran it low as I could then let it shutdown in the driveway with the Heat blasting with the windows open. I might try that again when we get some cold weather.
You might need a bigger "spike" of power drain than what the HVAC can do, that's why others in the past have talked about just hammering the accelerator to get that bad cell to drop way below the others and trigger the code (which can also trigger turtle mode if you are lucky or just complete shutdown if you are not :( )
 
knightmb said:
Learjet said:
DaveinOlyWA said:
From what I have seen, a code will only happen just before shutdown so not something you want to aspire to.

Last time I ran it low as I could then let it shutdown in the driveway with the Heat blasting with the windows open. I might try that again when we get some cold weather.
You might need a bigger "spike" of power drain than what the HVAC can do, that's why others in the past have talked about just hammering the accelerator to get that bad cell to drop way below the others and trigger the code (which can also trigger turtle mode if you are lucky or just complete shutdown if you are not :( )

Yeah, you should be able to see it well enough driving. Even normal acceleration will show it, no need to spin tires. You should get a feel of how to push the limit w/o going overboard. Either way, you should be able to kick Turtle on and that should be evidence enough especially after you stop and your SOC slowly rises back up.
 
As I mentioned it in this thread earlier, here is the follow up on the 2023 Rogue SL with the CVT on the highway. Driving gently capping speed at 70mph, we did a round trip to/from Wisconsin today, 80 miles each way. Mpg out was 34.3 and back was 34.4. Sticker is 34mpg highway, so fairly accurate. At 60mph through Milwaukee it showed 37.5 for a few miles before the speed picked up going south. The 1.5 turbo does pretty well, but the "shifts" feel stupid. Propilot was great on the 23 Rogue. I did the whole stretch north without it disengaging once and we even had rain on the drive. South I was playing around with different modes.

It is very hard to go back to driving an ice (not counting rental cars for work). All of the efficiency techniques learned over the past years are almost count productive to efficiency vs driving electric. I forgot how bad local driving is on gas cars vs. Metro (55-60mph) freeway driving. Thankfully the Leaf Plus is still my primary car.
 
Approaching my 1 year mark. Here are my results so far. Was trying to shove it all into a chart but I couldn't get the dates to adjust the spacing.

LeafSpy results (monthly or 1000 miles)
Date Miles SOH AH HX Notes
1/4/21 400 99.48 175.48 103.25 initial delivery
1/23/21 964 99.42 175.38 106.28
2/9/22 2002 99.32 175.20 111.33
3/13/22 2991 99.11 174.83 112.38
4/22/22 4007 98.86 174.39 111.96
5/14/22 5000 98.65 174.02 112.37
6/11/22 6002 98.38 173.54 112.84
7/14/22 7003 98.03 172.92 112.56
8/6/22 7,999 97.73 172.40 111.61
8/16/22 9,002 97.58 172.13 111.96
9/8/22 10,000 96.53 170.28 112.30 big drop!
9/24/22 11,001 96.39 170.03 113.11
10/21/22 12,028 96.28 169.84 112.12
11/18/22 13,012 96.20 169.70 112.55
12/9/22 14,001 94.90 167.40 114.11 biggest drop!
 
watchdoc said:
Approaching my 1 year mark. Here are my results so far. Was trying to shove it all into a chart but I couldn't get the dates to adjust the spacing.

LeafSpy results (monthly or 1000 miles)
Date Miles SOH AH HX Notes
1/4/21 400 99.48 175.48 103.25 initial delivery
1/23/21 964 99.42 175.38 106.28
2/9/22 2002 99.32 175.20 111.33
3/13/22 2991 99.11 174.83 112.38
4/22/22 4007 98.86 174.39 111.96
5/14/22 5000 98.65 174.02 112.37
6/11/22 6002 98.38 173.54 112.84
7/14/22 7003 98.03 172.92 112.56
8/6/22 7,999 97.73 172.40 111.61
8/16/22 9,002 97.58 172.13 111.96
9/8/22 10,000 96.53 170.28 112.30 big drop!
9/24/22 11,001 96.39 170.03 113.11
10/21/22 12,028 96.28 169.84 112.12
11/18/22 13,012 96.20 169.70 112.55
12/9/22 14,001 94.90 167.40 114.11 biggest drop!

Your chart is hard to read but not for the reasons you think. Your car is having its adjustments on the 3, 6, 9 and 12th month starting around the 7th give or take. These adjustments can take several days and you took readings in the middle of two of them giving the impression the daily movements between adjustments are significant when they are not.

If you want to continue monthly monitoring, I would suggest you change to the 15th of the month for a much clearer picture.
 
DaveinOlyWA said:
watchdoc said:
Approaching my 1 year mark. Here are my results so far. Was trying to shove it all into a chart but I couldn't get the dates to adjust the spacing.

LeafSpy results (monthly or 1000 miles)
Date Miles SOH AH HX Notes
1/4/21 400 99.48 175.48 103.25 initial delivery
1/23/21 964 99.42 175.38 106.28
2/9/22 2002 99.32 175.20 111.33
3/13/22 2991 99.11 174.83 112.38
4/22/22 4007 98.86 174.39 111.96
5/14/22 5000 98.65 174.02 112.37
6/11/22 6002 98.38 173.54 112.84
7/14/22 7003 98.03 172.92 112.56
8/6/22 7,999 97.73 172.40 111.61
8/16/22 9,002 97.58 172.13 111.96
9/8/22 10,000 96.53 170.28 112.30 big drop!
9/24/22 11,001 96.39 170.03 113.11
10/21/22 12,028 96.28 169.84 112.12
11/18/22 13,012 96.20 169.70 112.55
12/9/22 14,001 94.90 167.40 114.11 biggest drop!

Your chart is hard to read but not for the reasons you think. Your car is having its adjustments on the 3, 6, 9 and 12th month starting around the 7th give or take. These adjustments can take several days and you took readings in the middle of two of them giving the impression the daily movements between adjustments are significant when they are not.

If you want to continue monthly monitoring, I would suggest you change to the 15th of the month for a much clearer picture.

I have been taking readings every 1000 miles so the date of the month is merely coincidental. What would a better format be?
 
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