Poor regeneration while braking.

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FWIW, I replaced the 12V battery in my 2017 Leaf S and just took out the old one and put in the new. I didn't notice anything different in any behavior of the car afterwards.

There are some differences in model years and trims so your case might be different but for me it was just like any old ICE car.
 
There are devices that provide the car's wiring with 12 volts while the battery is removed and replaced. They are available because the issue (systems with programmable or learnable settings like radio presets, fuel injection fine tuning, and power window behaviors losing those settings if 12 volt power is lost) has existed since at least the Eighties. You can also make one, using any size 12 volt battery including little UPS batteries, and a pair of light duty jumper cable or even just some 14 gauge or better wire and a pair of alligator clips. You clip the little battery to the car's battery cables just before removing each cable terminal from the 12 volt battery. Keep them separated! Or you can just lose the presets and then reprogram them again afterwards. This is more of an issue with electronically fuel injected engines than it is with EVs because the fuel injection computers used to lose their memories, then have to relearn the finer points of the engine's dynamics afterwards, leading to a usually brief bit of rough running..
 
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