cooperplace said:
Ok thanks. Yes I made sure the auxiliary battery is fully charged. I bought a Konnwei OBD2 dongle and installed Leafspy Pro on my phone. The braking graph just shows zero, no graph at all.
How should I look for error messages?
The service functions are disabled each time LEAFSpy Pro exits.
To enable:
Choose Settings (Three horizontal lines , sometimes called Hamburger, at top right of screen)
Click Gear Icon Settings on pop-up menu.
Service Screen Enable Option is fourth group from the top.
Check Enable and restart LEAFSpy Pro.
As noted in the LEAFSpy Pro Help, do NOT clear Diagnostic Test Codes until you have recorded them and know their cause.
Once cleared there is no way to get them back other than waiting for them to happen again.
If you end up using a dealer, they won't be there for the dealer to read with the Consult and do troubleshooting.
I have not experienced your loss of regenerative braking with a 12V battery replacement.
It is possible the new 12V is bad. I have destroyed two or three 12V batteries in the 2011 LEAF. When they go bad, they might have just enough voltage to start the LEAF, but the minute the 12V buss is loaded heavily like starting the AC as someone stated in another thread, the 12V voltage may plummet to less than 10V. (Have been doing good with Optima 51R Yellowtop AGM since August 2019)
A 2011 LEAF braking is extremely erratic when attempting to work with low 12V buss voltage. Been there once or twice with nearly failed 12V. The braking can be downright dangerous.
But coulomb's theory could be correct and your main pack resistance may have reached a threshold to disable regeneration.
My main pack is Nissan warranty replacement installed six years ago August 2016. I have lost only the first capacity bar so far. But SOH is down to ~80% and Hx which is thought to be pack conductance is ~60%.
If coulomb theory is right, I might lose regenerative braking soon.
What is your SOH and Hx?