Leaf Spy and Leaf Spy Pro

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Hi all,
I am new to this forum. If I am posting in the wrong topic then please direct me to the correct topic. Thank you in advance.

LeafSpy Pro android. Ver 0.53.182 2018-0E2*0
A possible bug (or operator error)
I have Settings - Units Feet, mile, mph selected. I notice on screen-1 the 'odo=22,819 mi' is not matching miles on my 2018 leaf. When I change Settings to Meters, km, km/h then 'odo=36724 km' then the mileage match the miles on my Leaf but the unit is not correct. It appears that the underlying code is is displaying the mileage opposite of the selected setting. Temperature 'F' and tire pressure 'PSI' are shown correctly.

Is anyone else with same version experiencing the same problem with mileage?
Is there a setting I am missing or is it a bug in the code?

A question about screen-1 and the red/blue bars.
I have a 40kwh battery. The main screen reports 12 0f 12 bars. I am not the original owner and this is my first use of LeafSpy.
I have a screenshot of screen-1 that I can post (minus the VIN) that shows the bars in alternating red-blue-red-blue... from 1-96. All the bars mostly the same height min/avg/max (3.797 3.887 3.901 (104mv). Bar 75 is red and shorter than all the rest at 3.797.

Does this mean that cell 75 is bad, going bad or just weaker than the rest?
Is 3.797 with an average of 3.887 typical or should all the bars be more equal?

Thank you,
 
BillAinCT said:
Turbo3, please update the iOS version. At least every year or two. Thanks!

I got stuck at the dealer for 2 hours for them to clear a DTC and test the fast charge. :x (Looks like they just wanted a 2 hour warranty charge to corporate.)

LeafSpy PRO for iOS will not clear DTCs on a 2022 Leaf which I found out while at 6% at a fast charger. Also, other LS features do not work.

I do not recommend spending the $20 on iOS LS PRO for missing and non working features. Use the Android version.
 
Are the 12 bars mentioned, the capacity bars (small bars on the extreme right) or the state of charge bars (long ones)?

The lower your state of charge, the larger the difference between cell voltages will be. The voltage difference after a full charge should be very close, less than 20mV(?). As you get below LBW, the difference increases dramatically.

Cell 75 is problematic if it is that far out of balance when fully charged. It will also cause a premature shut down when you are at low SOC or when you draw a lot of power in cold weather. Need more data to determine whether the cell is weak, bad, deteriorating or if the battery hasn’t had the opportunity to balance itself recently.

Posting your screenshot will help.

Surprised that the more knowledgeable members haven’t responded yet.

jakthree said:
A question about screen-1 and the red/blue bars.
I have a 40kwh battery. The main screen reports 12 0f 12 bars. I am not the original owner and this is my first use of LeafSpy.
I have a screenshot of screen-1 that I can post (minus the VIN) that shows the bars in alternating red-blue-red-blue... from 1-96. All the bars mostly the same height min/avg/max (3.797 3.887 3.901 (104mv). Bar 75 is red and shorter than all the rest at 3.797.

Does this mean that cell 75 is bad, going bad or just weaker than the rest?
Is 3.797 with an average of 3.887 typical or should all the bars be more equal?

Thank you,
 
That difference in cell voltage, at or near a full charge, probably indicates a marginal cell. Not bad enough to get replaced, but possibly of concern in the future. As 91040 noted, a weak cell can trigger "turtle" mode or even a shutdown under load at a lower state of charge.
 
As much as I detest duplicate posts, you should probably post your opinion in the LeafSpy iOS thread on this forum.

BillAinCT said:
I do not recommend spending the $20 on iOS LS PRO for missing and non working features. Use the Android version.
 
91040,
The 12 of 12 bars are on the cars screen where the speedometer is.

I will take a screen-1 screen shot at 100% charge.
What mV scale should I take the screen shot at?

I found a setting that changes the odo to match my miles. The setting is only shown when Leaf Spy (LS) is connected to the dongle. However the VIN number is not correct.
How to get LS to display the correct VIN?

I understand that fast DC charging should be avoided du to causing battery degradation. (Please correct me if I misunderstand)
The Nissan charge cord can charge at 120V,12A (1.44kW) or 240V,30A (7.2kW but reduced by the onboard charger to 6.6kW).
Is it less harmful to the battery to charge it at 1.4kW as compared to 6.6kW?

Thank you,
 
Please ignore my comments about the bars. They are applicable to the first generation LEAF only, not yours. A picture of that display would help or if someone with a generation 2 Leaf would chime in…

Any mV scale that has legible numbers is fine. A LeafSpy screen shot at full charge and a second below Low Battery Warning (or VLBW) will provide good information.

Photos for this forum need to be hosted elsewhere, then linked here.

The charging specs of the portable EVSE are correct. On 240V, the Leaf draws about 27A.

It is better to avoid Quick Charge (DC charging) when the traction battery is hot. Otherwise, use it as necessary. Search this forum to learn what that temperature threshold is. My guess is around100F. Also, avoid Quick Charging above 80% capacity because the charging speed slows down drastically and the increased heat it causes.

Any difference in stress on the battery between 120V charging and 240V is insignificant. However, 240V charging is more efficient since both have a similar power draw running the cooling system.

I don’t have any insight into the VIN number issue.

Cheers.

jakthree said:
91040,
The 12 of 12 bars are on the cars screen where the speedometer is.

I will take a screen-1 screen shot at 100% charge.
What mV scale should I take the screen shot at?

I found a setting that changes the odo to match my miles. The setting is only shown when Leaf Spy (LS) is connected to the dongle. However the VIN number is not correct.
How to get LS to display the correct VIN?

I understand that fast DC charging should be avoided du to causing battery degradation. (Please correct me if I misunderstand)
The Nissan charge cord can charge at 120V,12A (1.44kW) or 240V,30A (7.2kW but reduced by the onboard charger to 6.6kW).
Is it less harmful to the battery to charge it at 1.4kW as compared to 6.6kW?

Thank you,
 
I confess. I didn't read over 200 pages so I may be asking dumb questions. I did see one post say don't use the iOS version, use Android. How do you do that if your device is iOS, iPhone or iPad? Do you need any physical thing like an OBD-II scanner etc. to use with this? How soon after buying a new Leaf does one need to use this?
 
Just get a $30 android phone, and a Bluetooth "dongle" (Onboard Diagnostic Port reader) like the one in my signature. Not all of them are compatible with the Leaf (this one is) so get one that is recommended here. You can leave them both in the car - but don't leave the dongle plugged in all the time. There is no hurry unless your car is exhibiting problems or trouble codes.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Just get a $30 android phone, and a Bluetooth "dongle" (Onboard Diagnostic Port reader) like the one in my signature. Not all of them are compatible with the Leaf (this one is) so get one that is recommended here. You can leave them both in the car - but don't leave the dongle plugged in all the time. There is no hurry unless your car is exhibiting problems or trouble codes.

What happens if it is plugged in all the time? Power drain? Or some other evil interaction? :)
 
91040,
When talking the screen-1 100% screenshot, should the car be in ACC (press start one time with foot off break, or run (press start one tim with foot on break) ?
Should the charge cord be connected or disconnected?
Thank you
 
The car needs to be in “run” mode or “on” for LeafSpy to read the data, i.e. the display will be lit. It will not work in accessory mode- one button press, no brake.

The J-1772 plug won’t affect the reading but stops the car from entering run mode.

jakthree said:
91040,
When talking the screen-1 100% screenshot, should the car be in ACC (press start one time with foot off break, or run (press start one tim with foot on break) ?
Should the charge cord be connected or disconnected?
Thank you
 
Hello,

The other day I discovered that I got "CAN Error" when I tried to connect to my Leaf via my ELM327. First I thought that maybe something is wrong with the ELM327, but I attached to another car (not an LEAF), and it worked, so the ELM327 is innocent.

Then I cleared the cache for LeafSpy Pro, uninstalled the app, reboot my phone and then reinstalled app. But with the same error message.
Then I installed the app on another Android phone, but I got the same error message again.

So I´m out of idea what to test next. Unfortunately I don't have access to any other Nissan Leaf, so I cannot troubleshoot from that angle.

Many Thanks.
 
I have a pretty unique issue but I'm hoping that I can get some guidance on how to fix it. I have converted an old vehicle from gasoline to EV using Nissan LEAF parts and a Resolve-EV controller.

1. The vehicle uses a PDM, Charger, Inverter, and motor from a 2013 LEAF and a 30kwh battery from a 2017 LEAF.

2. The vehicle was 100% functional until I parked it for a few months. Now it is fully functional EXCEPT it will not L1/L2 charge.

3. With Resolve-EV I can use LeafSpy to read codes and clear DTC but ONLY for Inverter/Motor and Battery BMS. (must use "INV/MOT or BMS" mode in LeafSpy)

4. I can not view or clear codes for the PDM/Charger in LeafSpy.


  • Is there a way to use custom features of LeafSpy to view the PDM/Charger DTCs and possibly clear them?
  • Can I use a PC-USB to CAN device like PCAN to send a clear command straight to the PDM/Charger or read codes?


    Any help would be greatly appreciated! I've tried all the basic stuff. Please see screenshots below:

    VLg2upA.png


    i1korv4.png


    k5I6nok.png


    EY5sJiF.png


    yxNlG64.png
 
For more than 4 years I recorded every one of my trips on my cell phone (Leaf Spy Pro). A few days ago I tried to download the last batch of logs (1.5 years) from my phone. I found that there were none.
In the setup, data logging was enabled ("Enable Data Logging"), but there was no new file (the last one was a year and a half ago). I immediately tried Leaf Spy Pro on another phone, but it was even worse. On the new phone, the Leaf Spy directory does not exist, even though logging is enabled.
When I checked the app's permissions, it gave "Location, Nearby Devices and Notifications" and "No Permissions Denied". It's odd that there are no file permissions listed?
I am guessing I just missed something since I have not checked Leaf Spy files in so long. Any ideas?
 
crunchy3d said:
For more than 4 years I recorded every one of my trips on my cell phone (Leaf Spy Pro). A few days ago I tried to download the last batch of logs (1.5 years) from my phone. I found that there were none.

Have you enabled “ELM Assist Mode” under “Options”?
There was a version where setting that was supposed to allow some OBD adapters to work, but there was a bug that caused the logging to stop.
I unchecked that box, and logging resumed. I don't know if the bug was fixed, but Leafspy was aware of the bug.

Logging stopped for me in January of 2020, and I restarted it in July.
 
The newest version of LEAF Spy saves the files in a different location under the Android operating system than earlier versions. The log files may be in the new location if you updated LEAF Spy during that time frame. I thought I lost my log files when I had to upgrade the cheap Android phone I use in the car just for LEAF Spy, but I read the help file which explained the new file structure. My older log files were in their original location on the old phone while newer log files were in the new file structure. I copied all of them to my computer and then started with a clean slate on the new phone.
 
Thinking of purchasing a 2020 Leaf SV Plus with the 62KWh battery and the Technology Package. Leaf Spy Lite shows the following: https://photos.app.goo.gl/SktXPAMwp8g5hDSp8

Just thought I would request some input from more experienced people before making my decision.
Mileage - 30,178
Overall visual condition is good.
Asking Price: $24,900 from a dealer
One Owner and would qualify for $4,000 Used EV tax Credit. The net cost after fees/taxes/credit would be $23,700.

Leaf Spy Lite shows:
AHr - 155.83
SOH - 88.34%
Hx - 79.12%
mV - 7
min/avg/max - 4.11/4.113/4.117
100 QCs 576 L1/L2

The numbers are not quite as good as some I've seen posted here. The prior owner lived in Phoenix and that may be the reason for higher degradation.

With the added range of the SV Plus my opinion is that this would cost 11% less than a New 2023 40 KWh Leaf with the $7,500 tax Credit and have 24% more range.

Update
After reading through the most recent 25 pages of this thread it looks like the performance is pretty much in line with what other people are experiencing. The only anomaly would be the Hx which is showing as 79.12%. Most of the other folks have been within about 3% of the SOH.
 
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