has anyone actually paid for an out of warranty battery replacement

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
solartim said:
Ours is in, pretty quick turnaround, shipping was less then a week $6300 after tax and labor. After a full charge we are reading 97.5%
SOC 91.2% (why don't they match?)
GIDs 274
AHr 65.21
SOH 102.21
Hx 94.45%
Just over a year in a very strange year. Only drove for 4092 miles, charging to 80%. Numbers are quite disturbing. Reading 94.3% on the charge with SOC at 94.2
GIDS 251 (-17)
AHr 53.16 (-12.05)
SOH 88.42 (-13.79)
Hx 75.57 (-18.88)

If it keeps up at this rate we'll be looking at a warranty replacement.
 
solartim said:
If it keeps up at this rate we'll be looking at a warranty replacement.
3rd time a charm ?

By the way, your first reading was after a reset that came with the battery swap. The values were not indicative of battery status.
If the calibration after the reset has finished the current reading is real. You will never be able to say whether the ~ 10% capacity loss occurred over the last year or was present the day you took the car home.

What you can do is follow the trend once the calibration is complete.

I bought my car off-lease. There was rapid "degradation" the first 6 months and much more gradual after that. I presume my graph also represents a LEAF that underwent a battery reset followed by a period of recalibration
 
Received a quote today to replace the Lizard battery in my 2011 Leaf - $8,300 including installation. Dealership is in Orlando, FL They told me that the Nissan battery is $7,200 - dictated by Nissan the rest is their installation cost. It shocked me as the same dealership quoted $6K for the replacement 2 years ago.

My 2011 Leaf was upgraded to a Lizard battery at 47K mile under warranty. I upgraded the interior to leather right after I purchased it. Vehicle has 101,340 miles on it and still shows 10 bars (after it runs a short distance). However, my range has dropped to under 70 miles dependent on speed and often drops suddenly on the guess-o-meter. Nothing has gone wrong with the car, which still runs and looks like new, so I have to consider that getting a new battery might result in another 100,000 miles with only minor - if any repairs. Brakes are still good for at least another 40K miles.

The dealership offered $2,000 in trade right after telling me that there is a high demand for used cars! I think I'll have to keep it running at least another year or 2 before selling it or possibly getting a replacement pack deal that would allow me to keep the old pack for solar panel energy storage. Even at 6 bars it is more than enough to run all household appliances and A/C.
 
Question,
Can I have a CW battery installed in a non-CW leaf?
Reason im asking is i found a dealer that has the CW battery 2k cheaper than what I assume to be the non-CW 295B0-9RB8E. (295B0-9RB9E seems to have been discontinued)

This is for a 2011 Leaf SL w/o CW btw
 
Stanton said:
MilesTP said:
Question,
Can I have a CW battery installed in a non-CW leaf?
Question: what does "CW" stand for?

https://iggyz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CIMG5405.JPG

It's a package designation that includes the CHAdeMO option.

@MilesTP: the CW package has no bearing on the battery.
 
SageBrush said:
Stanton said:
MilesTP said:
Question,
Can I have a CW battery installed in a non-CW leaf?
Question: what does "CW" stand for?

https://iggyz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CIMG5405.JPG

It's a package designation that includes the CHAdeMO option.

@MilesTP: the CW package has no bearing on the battery.


Hey thanks - I see that window sticker did include a battery heater so I just was just worried that 295B0-9RB9D included a battery heater on the battery. (hence also why i thought CW meant cold weather)
 
MilesTP said:
SageBrush said:
Stanton said:
Question: what does "CW" stand for?

https://iggyz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CIMG5405.JPG

It's a package designation that includes the CHAdeMO option.

@MilesTP: the CW package has no bearing on the battery.


Hey thanks - I see that window sticker did include a battery heater so I just was just worried that 295B0-9RB9D included a battery heater on the battery. (hence also why i thought CW meant cold weather)
I'd also never heard the "CW" designation until this thread. I most definitely had heard of the cold weather package (e.g. via https://www.autoblog.com/2011/06/10/2012-nissan-leaf-available-this-fall-cold-weather-package-now-s/). AFAIK, most '11 US Leafs didn't have the cold weather package.

Page 19 of https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/MC-10171223-0001.pdf has
"HIGH VOLTAGE BATTERY PACK
2011 With Cold Weather Package
2012 All" with part number:
"295B0-9RB9D*
(replaces 295B0-3NF9D)"

and further down:
"* Cold Weather Package vehicles can be identified by having heated steering wheel, heated front and rear seats, heated outside mirrors and rear HVAC duct. "
 
91040 said:
Isn’t CW the designation for the cold weather package?

That would fit.
A Google search said CW is for CHAdeMO but you may well be right.

@Dala would know if batteries with the extra electrical connection can only be fitted on cars with that option.
My confidence that OP can use that battery is now uncertain.
 
SageBrush said:
Stanton said:
MilesTP said:
Question,
Can I have a CW battery installed in a non-CW leaf?
Question: what does "CW" stand for?

https://iggyz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CIMG5405.JPG

It's a package designation that includes the CHAdeMO option.

@MilesTP: the CW package has no bearing on the battery.
Now that we've sorted that out, let's go back to @MilesTP original problem: what exactly is the part number of the battery that you are trying to install/replace in your 2011 Leaf (because I just did something similar)?

If you are replacing it with a Gen1 battery pack (24 kWh) with 2 connectors/interfaces, you need match the designation With Cold Weather Package or Without Cold Weather Package (the lizard pack that Nissan replace a few years ago was part# 295B0-3NF9E). In addition, you need to have some sort of battery ID/mating procedure performed using the Nissan Consult system.
If you are replacing it with a Gen2 battery pack (any capacity besides 24 kWh) with 3 connectors/interfaces, then you simply don't use the "heater" port. However, you must use some sort of CAN-bridge converter for this to work.

One personal note: it's a good thing that I had the lizard battery replacement, because I didn't have to go through all the mechanical bracket/holes/hardware changes required when going from the Gen1 (2011) version of the battery pack to the Gen2 (2020) battery pack I installed. Hope this helps, because mating the wrong combination can damage (even brick) the car or the battery pack.
 
Stanton said:
SageBrush said:
Stanton said:
Question: what does "CW" stand for?

https://iggyz.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/02/CIMG5405.JPG

It's a package designation that includes the CHAdeMO option.

@MilesTP: the CW package has no bearing on the battery.
Now that we've sorted that out, let's go back to @MilesTP original problem: what exactly is the part number of the battery that you are trying to install/replace in your 2011 Leaf (because I just did something similar)?

If you are replacing it with a Gen1 battery pack (24 kWh) with 2 connectors/interfaces, you need match the designation With Cold Weather Package or Without Cold Weather Package (the lizard pack that Nissan replace a few years ago was part# 295B0-3NF9E). In addition, you need to have some sort of battery ID/mating procedure performed using the Nissan Consult system.
If you are replacing it with a Gen2 battery pack (any capacity besides 24 kWh) with 3 connectors/interfaces, then you simply don't use the "heater" port. However, you must use some sort of CAN-bridge converter for this to work.

One personal note: it's a good thing that I had the lizard battery replacement, because I didn't have to go through all the mechanical bracket/holes/hardware changes required when going from the Gen1 (2011) version of the battery pack to the Gen2 (2020) battery pack I installed. Hope this helps, because mating the wrong combination can damage (even brick) the car or the battery pack.



@Stranton :D thanks for the explanation man...

So here's my situation:
I have a 2011 Leaf SL NON-ColdWeather.
Its has 45k miles on it, no accidents, and the current battery is at 50% health. I did know this when I bought it. I thought I got a good deal on it and i could just easily change the battery but thats irrelevant at this point.

I brought it in to a dealer to give the official route for a replacement a whirl. It got approved by nissan but the quote the dealer gave me for the battery is kinda outrageous. And apparently for the battery itself, I can't order it directly through parts even though its listed on all the usual dealership parts stores through parts.nissanusa.com. I tried it and the dealer called me and said the battery part itself needs to be ordered by the EV tech and run by corporate. Through the parts website it much cheaper and ranges from $6885-8650 depending on the battery part# and dealership + memorial day discount.

Here's the rundown of the parts and costs.
295B0-9RB8E - Battery Assy Main - $10400 + $1000 for the core !!!!!!!
740D0-3NF1A - Bracket Assy (2) - $181.98
297C1-3NF0A - Disconnect Switch - $113.10
01125-N0111 - Bolt (4) - $15.04
748N2-3NF0A - Battery Splash Cover - $41.43
748N3-3NF0A - Battery Splash Cover - $40.60


I can order all the parts myself for self-pickup except the battery, which is much cheaper online. So I'm waiting on a response from dealer on giving me the online price i see for 295B0-9RB8E, which at my dealer is currently $7785.

Now I've seen other threads regarding battery parts 295B0-9RB9D and 295B0-9RB9E.
295B0-9RB9E seems to no longer be available.
295B0-9RB9D is available, and I found it for $6885. This is the CW-battery according to this other thread. And was cheaper, which was why I was wondering if it would fit my non-CW car.

"To all with high quotes: Try again but this time ask specifically for battery pack 295B0-9RB9E (w/o CW) or 295B0-9RB9D (w/ CW), which ever is appropriate for your Leaf."

Now this is all irrelevant if I can't order the battery myself and pick it up. But this is my dilemma.
I'm kinda bummed. It's my first EV and my first Nissan. And I would have bought new but I'm financing a Jeep and Colorado at the moment.

So.. at the mercy of dealer politics at the moment. Any words of wisdom to perk me up would be appreciated.
I'm in norcal sacramento area btw.
 
MilesTP said:
Stanton said:
Now that we've sorted that out, let's go back to @MilesTP original problem: what exactly is the part number of the battery that you are trying to install/replace in your 2011 Leaf (because I just did something similar)?

If you are replacing it with a Gen1 battery pack (24 kWh) with 2 connectors/interfaces, you need match the designation With Cold Weather Package or Without Cold Weather Package (the lizard pack that Nissan replace a few years ago was part# 295B0-3NF9E). In addition, you need to have some sort of battery ID/mating procedure performed using the Nissan Consult system.
If you are replacing it with a Gen2 battery pack (any capacity besides 24 kWh) with 3 connectors/interfaces, then you simply don't use the "heater" port. However, you must use some sort of CAN-bridge converter for this to work.

One personal note: it's a good thing that I had the lizard battery replacement, because I didn't have to go through all the mechanical bracket/holes/hardware changes required when going from the Gen1 (2011) version of the battery pack to the Gen2 (2020) battery pack I installed. Hope this helps, because mating the wrong combination can damage (even brick) the car or the battery pack.

@Stanton :D thanks for the explanation man...

So here's my situation:
I have a 2011 Leaf SL NON-ColdWeather.
Its has 45k miles on it, no accidents, and the current battery is at 50% health. I did know this when I bought it. I thought I got a good deal on it and i could just easily change the battery but thats irrelevant at this point.

I brought it in to a dealer to give the official route for a replacement a whirl. It got approved by nissan but the quote the dealer gave me for the battery is kinda outrageous. And apparently for the battery itself, I can't order it directly through parts even though its listed on all the usual dealership parts stores through parts.nissanusa.com. I tried it and the dealer called me and said the battery part itself needs to be ordered by the EV tech and run by corporate. Through the parts website it much cheaper and ranges from $6885-8650 depending on the battery part# and dealership + memorial day discount.

Here's the rundown of the parts and costs.
295B0-9RB8E - Battery Assy Main - $10400 + $1000 for the core !!!!!!!
740D0-3NF1A - Bracket Assy (2) - $181.98
297C1-3NF0A - Disconnect Switch - $113.10
01125-N0111 - Bolt (4) - $15.04
748N2-3NF0A - Battery Splash Cover - $41.43
748N3-3NF0A - Battery Splash Cover - $40.60

I can order all the parts myself for self-pickup except the battery, which is much cheaper online. So I'm waiting on a response from dealer on giving me the online price i see for 295B0-9RB8E, which at my dealer is currently $7785.

Now I've seen other threads regarding battery parts 295B0-9RB9D and 295B0-9RB9E.
295B0-9RB9E seems to no longer be available.
295B0-9RB9D is available, and I found it for $6885. This is the CW-battery according to this other thread. And was cheaper, which was why I was wondering if it would fit my non-CW car.

"To all with high quotes: Try again but this time ask specifically for battery pack 295B0-9RB9E (w/o CW) or 295B0-9RB9D (w/ CW), which ever is appropriate for your Leaf."

Now this is all irrelevant if I can't order the battery myself and pick it up. But this is my dilemma.
I'm kinda bummed. It's my first EV and my first Nissan. And I would have bought new but I'm financing a Jeep and Colorado at the moment.

So.. at the mercy of dealer politics at the moment. Any words of wisdom to perk me up would be appreciated.
I'm in norcal sacramento area btw.
I don't know your level of experience/ability with car repairs (and battery packs have to be "married" to their car), but since you asked, here's my opinion. BTW, we basically have the same car (although I have the SV trim and you have SL) as far as the battery/power train are considered.
If you are simply trying to replace the existing (24 kWh) battery pack, then I would let Nissan do it. I understand you are trying to save $ (aren't we all), but you are already having trouble sourcing the hardware, and the installation is no walk in the park. Now, if you want to upgrade the battery pack (e.g. 40/62 kWh), you can read about my recent experience here (https://www.electricauto.org/blog/keeping-your-nissan-leaf). But if you just want to replace your degraded pack with a new one (you do realize you don't just throw these things in the back of your truck?), pay Nissan to do it; any $ you save may be irrelevant when you brick the car.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.
 
Stanton said:
MilesTP said:
Stanton said:
Now that we've sorted that out, let's go back to @MilesTP original problem: what exactly is the part number of the battery that you are trying to install/replace in your 2011 Leaf (because I just did something similar)?

If you are replacing it with a Gen1 battery pack (24 kWh) with 2 connectors/interfaces, you need match the designation With Cold Weather Package or Without Cold Weather Package (the lizard pack that Nissan replace a few years ago was part# 295B0-3NF9E). In addition, you need to have some sort of battery ID/mating procedure performed using the Nissan Consult system.
If you are replacing it with a Gen2 battery pack (any capacity besides 24 kWh) with 3 connectors/interfaces, then you simply don't use the "heater" port. However, you must use some sort of CAN-bridge converter for this to work.

One personal note: it's a good thing that I had the lizard battery replacement, because I didn't have to go through all the mechanical bracket/holes/hardware changes required when going from the Gen1 (2011) version of the battery pack to the Gen2 (2020) battery pack I installed. Hope this helps, because mating the wrong combination can damage (even brick) the car or the battery pack.

@Stanton :D thanks for the explanation man...

So here's my situation:
I have a 2011 Leaf SL NON-ColdWeather.
Its has 45k miles on it, no accidents, and the current battery is at 50% health. I did know this when I bought it. I thought I got a good deal on it and i could just easily change the battery but thats irrelevant at this point.

I brought it in to a dealer to give the official route for a replacement a whirl. It got approved by nissan but the quote the dealer gave me for the battery is kinda outrageous. And apparently for the battery itself, I can't order it directly through parts even though its listed on all the usual dealership parts stores through parts.nissanusa.com. I tried it and the dealer called me and said the battery part itself needs to be ordered by the EV tech and run by corporate. Through the parts website it much cheaper and ranges from $6885-8650 depending on the battery part# and dealership + memorial day discount.

Here's the rundown of the parts and costs.
295B0-9RB8E - Battery Assy Main - $10400 + $1000 for the core !!!!!!!
740D0-3NF1A - Bracket Assy (2) - $181.98
297C1-3NF0A - Disconnect Switch - $113.10
01125-N0111 - Bolt (4) - $15.04
748N2-3NF0A - Battery Splash Cover - $41.43
748N3-3NF0A - Battery Splash Cover - $40.60

I can order all the parts myself for self-pickup except the battery, which is much cheaper online. So I'm waiting on a response from dealer on giving me the online price i see for 295B0-9RB8E, which at my dealer is currently $7785.

Now I've seen other threads regarding battery parts 295B0-9RB9D and 295B0-9RB9E.
295B0-9RB9E seems to no longer be available.
295B0-9RB9D is available, and I found it for $6885. This is the CW-battery according to this other thread. And was cheaper, which was why I was wondering if it would fit my non-CW car.

"To all with high quotes: Try again but this time ask specifically for battery pack 295B0-9RB9E (w/o CW) or 295B0-9RB9D (w/ CW), which ever is appropriate for your Leaf."

Now this is all irrelevant if I can't order the battery myself and pick it up. But this is my dilemma.
I'm kinda bummed. It's my first EV and my first Nissan. And I would have bought new but I'm financing a Jeep and Colorado at the moment.

So.. at the mercy of dealer politics at the moment. Any words of wisdom to perk me up would be appreciated.
I'm in norcal sacramento area btw.
I don't know your level of experience/ability with car repairs (and battery packs have to be "married" to their car), but since you asked, here's my opinion. BTW, we basically have the same car (although I have the SV trim and you have SL) as far as the battery/power train are considered.
If you are simply trying to replace the existing (24 kWh) battery pack, then I would let Nissan do it. I understand you are trying to save $ (aren't we all), but you are already having trouble sourcing the hardware, and the installation is no walk in the park. Now, if you want to upgrade the battery pack (e.g. 40/62 kWh), you can read about my recent experience here (https://www.electricauto.org/blog/keeping-your-nissan-leaf). But if you just want to replace your degraded pack with a new one (you do realize you don't just throw these things in the back of your truck?), pay Nissan to do it; any $ you save may be irrelevant when you brick you car.
Good luck with whatever you decide to do.

Thanks - leaning toward the dealership doing it. I love the car and its in great shape, just this Gen1 battery it had that must have been hammered in the TX heat as a fleet car.
 
You might want to read through this thread https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=4&t=31135/ and look around for someone who will install a salvage pack and handle all the details that are involved.
 
Keep in mind that you should get a 5-year, 60,000-mile capacity warranty and 8-year, 100,000-mile defect warranty on a replacement 24 kWh pack (from date/odometer reading at installation) if you have a Nissan dealer do it. There would be no warranty if you were able to buy the parts and install them yourself. A 40 kWh or 62 kWh battery purchased used is another route as Stanton noted.
 
GerryAZ said:
Keep in mind that you get should get a 5-year, 60,000-mile capacity warranty and 8-year, 100,000-mile defect warranty on a replacement 24 kWh pack (from date/odometer reading at installation) if you have a Nissan dealer do it. There would be no warranty if you were able to buy the parts and install them yourself. A 40 kWh or 62 kWh battery purchased used is another route as Stanton noted.

@Gerry
Yes very true. The EVRide guys in Portland havent even gotten back to me about a 40kWh battery upgrade - i don't think I want to deal with shipping the car anyway and all the hassle and worry with used cells. I'm going to go forward with the dealer. I think I've come to peace with that.

Now, the excitement of having a brand new Gen2 battery in my Leaf is starting to set in.
 
MilesTP said:
GerryAZ said:
Keep in mind that you get should get a 5-year, 60,000-mile capacity warranty and 8-year, 100,000-mile defect warranty on a replacement 24 kWh pack (from date/odometer reading at installation) if you have a Nissan dealer do it. There would be no warranty if you were able to buy the parts and install them yourself. A 40 kWh or 62 kWh battery purchased used is another route as Stanton noted.

@Gerry
Yes very true. The EVRide guys in Portland havent even gotten back to me about a 40kWh battery upgrade - i don't think I want to deal with shipping the car anyway and all the hassle and worry with used cells. I'm going to go forward with the dealer. I think I've come to peace with that.

Now, the excitement of having a brand new Gen2 battery in my Leaf is starting to set in.
I'm not sure what your total outlay will be but I shudder at spending big $ on an '11 Leaf that is totally out of warranty w/slow AC charging (only 3.8 kW max from the wall), not very fast DC charging (if it has CHAdeMO) and even Nissan abandoning CHAdeMO in the US.

See how much used Bolts at https://www.cars.com/for-sale/searchresults.action/?mdId=36274172&mkId=20053&page=1&perPage=100&rd=99999&searchSource=PAGINATION&sort=price-lowest&stkTypId=28881&zc=00001 go for. The prices have actually gone up a few $K over the past few months.

The final remedy for the fire recall on '17 and '18 Bolts finally came out today. Only '19 final remedy (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/rcl/2020/RCSB-20V701-5306.pdf) is up for now (went up weeks ago). '17 and '18 Bolt remedy PDF should cause https://www.nhtsa.gov/vehicle/2017/CHEVROLET/BOLT/4%252520DR/FWD#recalls to grow from 29 docs to whatever in a few days. And, unless you get a very high mileage Bolt, its EV bits are warranty for 8 years/100K mile from original in-service date (page 321 of https://my.chevrolet.com/content/dam/gmownercenter/gmna/dynamic/manuals/2017/Chevrolet/BOLT%20EV/Owner%27s%20Manual.pdf).

Since you live in Sac, it gets hot there. By the time the Leaf lizard pack's capacity warranty expires, you'll probably be down 2, maybe 3 capacity bars.
 
MilesTP said:
@Gerry
Yes very true. The EVRide guys in Portland havent even gotten back to me about a 40kWh battery upgrade - i don't think I want to deal with shipping the car anyway and all the hassle and worry with used cells. I'm going to go forward with the dealer. I think I've come to peace with that.

Now, the excitement of having a brand new Gen2 battery in my Leaf is starting to set in.
Some rumors a very long while back on the 24 kWh packs was that there were actually 30 kWh packs to combat degradation and give a long service life (relative to the original design of the 24 kWH packs) Did anyone ever confirm this or has it been on the rumor mill for years now?
 
Back
Top