One local "highway" speed limit 45, actual speeds up to 70, has stop signs instead of entrance ramps. After releasing the brake I floored it and nothing, almost got rear ended by cars that were 5 seconds away. I turn off eco mode before getting onto that road now.
First Impressions of '21 Leaf SV
- Thread starter LeftieBiker
- Start date
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gillmj24 said:
If you really got "nothing" then you have a problem with the car. More likely it was the expectation of instant power meeting the lag that Nissan built in to discourage flooring it. Pushing your foot down just a bit more slowly gives better results on post-2012 Leafs.
user 24513
Well-known member
Completely agree- even in ECO mode the car should take off quickly and immediately, I would get the dealer to check this out for sure.
knightmb
Well-known member
On the Gen 2 (that have the features), if you turn off chassis control, traction control, no eco, etc. It's easy to simulate instant torque, but all you do is squeal tires the entire time. Eco mode is the only way I can drive without doing a burn-out at every stop light. While I get that someone wants to take off instantly at every opportunity, I'm pretty sure Eco mode is called Eco that for a reason. Trying to run low rolling resistance tires to get maximum efficiency but also wanting to blow everyone away at every stop light is not really compatible in my opinion. :?
The pre-'20 Eco mode was perfect for me. I will definitely miss it, and will probably use the new Granny Mode that replaced it only in traffic. I'll also miss the old Drive (Sport!) mode that made my SL feel a bit like a Sixties Muscle Car.
Academiguy
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- 10
GerryAZ said:
I’ve got my Nissan EVSE on a 240v circuit with a 30 amp breaker. It’s what the label on the back of the unit says is the max. But you’re right about it not working with 208v — I discovered that one the hard way!
The maximum current draw allowed for more than three hours on a 30 amp circuit is 24 amps. Your setup is in violation of the National Electrical Code, unless you never charge for more than three hours...
Academiguy
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LeftieBiker said:
Hmm. Ok. I’ll have to look into that…
DaveinOlyWA
Well-known member
LeftieBiker said:
Now we need someone with LEAF Spy to do some regen tests to see how that has changed?
knightmb
Well-known member
I don't know how the pre-2020 acceleration ranked, but I can rank my 2020.
Fastest to slowest acceleration: D, B, D + Eco, B + Eco, D + ePedal, B + ePedal
If you have LeafSpy, you can see a slight power difference between D & B modes provided you can hold the pedal perfectly still and have a smooth, level road to drive down while you flip between the two modes. ePedal mode basically destroys the acceleration by limiting it to under 80 kW from what I remember. Eco mode didn't seem to have any affect on ePedal mode. This is all from memory, I could do a more controlled test to make a better list if the demand was high enough.
Fastest to slowest acceleration: D, B, D + Eco, B + Eco, D + ePedal, B + ePedal
If you have LeafSpy, you can see a slight power difference between D & B modes provided you can hold the pedal perfectly still and have a smooth, level road to drive down while you flip between the two modes. ePedal mode basically destroys the acceleration by limiting it to under 80 kW from what I remember. Eco mode didn't seem to have any affect on ePedal mode. This is all from memory, I could do a more controlled test to make a better list if the demand was high enough.
Learjet
Well-known member
LeftieBiker said:
yes ^^^ not good.
Per the owners manual "Nissan recommends a 50 amp circuit for the EVSE"....that is why the EVSE has a 50 amp NEMA 14-50 plug on the EVSE.
A 30a breaker will get quite hot pulling 27.5a(what the Leaf EVSE generally pulls) after a short while. If the wiring is 10g which generally a 30a circuit has, it will also get warm but may be harder to feel that. All in all not a good idea to run the OEM Leaf on a 30a circuit, besides being against code.
jjeff said:
My charge cables gets very hot at 27 amps (170 oF) at the L6-30 connectors. I'm setting the max amps at 22 on my OpenEVSE charge controller to determine if temps stay down. Don't know why the connectors get so much hotter than the 10 AWG wiring (130 oF) as the plug is part of a "factory" cable and the receptical is a Hubble that I've double checked for full/tight connections.
Bottom line to me is too much risk with my 30 amp rated wiring system to go full charge rate until I can figure out the problem.
From what I understand an L6-30(30a) outlet/plug and 10g wiring is supposed to be capable of 30a continuous, it's only the breaker that is generally only rated for 80% over 3hrs but I know when I used to regularly pull 27.5a through my L6-30 plug that after several hours the prongs on the plug would get quite hot. I could touch them for a short period but wouldn't want to hold onto them for long. My regular 30a breaker would also get quite warm but that's to be expected. Note I really never exceeded 3hrs and would generally charge in the 1-2hr range but even then things got quite warm. I know wiring insulation is rated for temp C that it can withstand, not sure if plugs/outlets are also rated like this or if they are all a somewhat high C rating. I also used a higher quality Hubble outlet plug combination even though you'd see Chinese versions on Amazon I always spent a bit more on name-brand things like that.Marktm said:
DaveinOlyWA
Well-known member
knightmb said:I don't know how the pre-2020 acceleration ranked, but I can rank my 2020.
Fastest to slowest acceleration: D, B, D + Eco, B + Eco, D + ePedal, B + ePedal
If you have LeafSpy, you can see a slight power difference between D & B modes provided you can hold the pedal perfectly still and have a smooth, level road to drive down while you flip between the two modes. ePedal mode basically destroys the acceleration by limiting it to under 80 kW from what I remember. Eco mode didn't seem to have any affect on ePedal mode. This is all from memory, I could do a more controlled test to make a better list if the demand was high enough.
B D and E Pedal are drive modes. So B + E Pedal and D + E Pedal are the same.
jjeff said:
Tried 22 amp setting on my EVSE and after an hour the connector temp went to 110 oF or so. Going to set at 24 amps and test again. 24 amps is OK with me as I can keep the 30 amp breaker within code (I believe!).
Questions;
- the owners manual states that using port USB-1 is required to get full benefits of ApplePlay. It appears USB-1 is a micro USB type C (not really sure). That would require a lightning to USB type C - not been able to find. The USB-2 port is the more standard USB - A - of which I have used to access ApplePlay on my new Leaf - and it did work. Has anyone had an issue with port 2?
- The owners manual has some vague statements about V2X on pages CH-8 & 9 . Has anyone actually used any type of CHAdeMO vehicle to whatever? The documentation gives the impression that the V2X capabilities are optional to the optional CHAdeMO (hard to imagine not getting the quick charge port - but that's up to the buyer). IF the V2X capabilities is an "option", the dealer certainly knew nothing about that.
- the owners manual states that using port USB-1 is required to get full benefits of ApplePlay. It appears USB-1 is a micro USB type C (not really sure). That would require a lightning to USB type C - not been able to find. The USB-2 port is the more standard USB - A - of which I have used to access ApplePlay on my new Leaf - and it did work. Has anyone had an issue with port 2?
- The owners manual has some vague statements about V2X on pages CH-8 & 9 . Has anyone actually used any type of CHAdeMO vehicle to whatever? The documentation gives the impression that the V2X capabilities are optional to the optional CHAdeMO (hard to imagine not getting the quick charge port - but that's up to the buyer). IF the V2X capabilities is an "option", the dealer certainly knew nothing about that.
I don't use fb, twitter, etc - still stuck in the email era! Appears I have a free trial for Nissan's "connect" - apparantly sponsered by SiriusXM (along with a bunch of menu items). Being retired, the Leaf is almost always outside my back door, so seems somewhat silly to "control" it from my living room. However, been around enough to know that I don't know much about it! I believe the app gets a very poor overall rating,
Some questions:
- What have been the most useful features and is the access so easy that it's worth using?
- How long is the trial and did you decide to continue with paid subscription?
- Does the wifi based operation cause any 12 volt battery issues?
Any comments appreciated - I will give it a try
Some questions:
- What have been the most useful features and is the access so easy that it's worth using?
- How long is the trial and did you decide to continue with paid subscription?
- Does the wifi based operation cause any 12 volt battery issues?
Any comments appreciated - I will give it a try
The best feature of Nissan Connect is the remote climate control access, and this continues for free after the trial period. I suppose the second best feature is either the ability to locate the car easily, or the ability to check the state of charge by opening the app and refreshing the data.
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