Poll : Number of miles before losing the first bar

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# of miles before losing the first battery capacity bar

  • 0-10,000

    Votes: 29 6.8%
  • 10,001-20,000

    Votes: 83 19.3%
  • 20,001-30,000

    Votes: 117 27.3%
  • 30,001-40,000

    Votes: 103 24.0%
  • 40,001-50,000

    Votes: 51 11.9%
  • 50,001-60,000

    Votes: 18 4.2%
  • 60,001+

    Votes: 28 6.5%

  • Total voters
    429
DougWantsALeaf said:
Does the 3.78% account for the efficiency changes due to software updates (which changes the constant)? Just curious.
Read my post over at TMC
The constant has not changed over close to 3 years of software updates
 
BrockWI said:
I did recently get "Scan my Tesla", but I can't seem to get a soc or Hx number out of that, but it could be I don't know where to look.
Hx no, but SoC yes.

Have you watched the Bjorn Nyland videos ? He presents a couple very good SMT tutorials

SMT is pretty clear that in the case of Tesla battery management there is
1. Nominal battery capacity when new
2. Current max capacity
3. Reserve (to avoid bricking)
4. A sliding scale buffer that starts at 0% when the SoC is "100%" and reaches 4.5% when the SoC is "0%"

The constant used to translate capacity into range DOES NOT CHANGE. That is just ignorance and FUD
 
Sage,

Tesla absolutely changes the constant with software updates where they have improved the efficiency of the cars. Thats been pretty well documented, and happened a few times over the past couple years. Telsfi appears to know how to account for it in its calculations.
 
Yes I watch Bjorn, he is my lunch entertainment with good info in there as well. I can see all the numbers your talking about, but I think some must have to calibrate it becasue when I look at current kWh it is all over the place, but the SOC seem very consistent. My favorite thing to look at is the mid cell temp and then if the "afterburner" or rear stator is running to heat things up (I have the single motor, smaller battery) . It helped me understand all the noises the car makes becasue I could see what it was really doing :)
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
Sage,

Tesla absolutely changes the constant with software updates where they have improved the efficiency of the cars.
Different models have different constants. Once you buy a car the constant does not change
 
I traded in the 2013 Leaf today. After 8 years and 80,416 miles, it never dropped a bar and left my hands with 86.14 SOH per LeafSpy. I had no expectation of it holding up anywhere near that well (and thus leased for the first half of its life), but long-life mode, the mild Seattle climate, and good luck made it the most amazingly dependable car I’ve ever had. Fare thee well, trusty blue Leaf.
 
I drove a 2013 SV that I leased for two years...for a total of five years, with lease extensions. I loved the car, but the range just wasn't quite enough. I too turned "Ana" in with 12 bars.
 
SageBrush said:
DougWantsALeaf said:
Sage,

Tesla absolutely changes the constant with software updates where they have improved the efficiency of the cars.
Different models have different constants. Once you buy a car the constant does not change

Ok then what was changed to increase the range to assist people fleeing a hurricane?
 
Some of the Tesla's have a software reduced pack. So it might be a 50 kWh pack software limited to 40 kWh useable and Tesla can temporarily tell the car to use the entire pack capacity. Lately it is just the off menu standard range model with about 200 useable miles and they open it to the approximately 250 the pack is capable of.
 
BrockWI said:
Some of the Tesla's have a software reduced pack. So it might be a 50 kWh pack software limited to 40 kWh useable and Tesla can temporarily tell the car to use the entire pack capacity. Lately it is just the off menu standard range model with about 200 useable miles and they open it to the approximately 250 the pack is capable of.

Exactly
 
My first health bar dropped at about 13,000 km (8,000 mi). This is on a warranty replacement battery, done very near the end of ownership for the previous owner. It drove very well for 2 years, then suddenly the estimated range started dropping rapidly, sometimes 10 km in one km travelled, sometimes recovering several km. Real range from a 100% charge seems to be about 77 km (48 mi). [ Edit: 2 years after the battery warranty replacement is also about the time it lost its first capacity bar. I also neglected to mention that it's a 2012 model that sat on a dealer's lot until 2015; first battery replaced at 79,000 km (49,000 mi). ]

There was a strong smell of electrolyte when I removed the battery disconnect / fuse to check for poor contact. Yes, that's desperation. According to Leafspy, there is no single cell or small group of cells performing worse than the rest, they all seem to have high internal resistance.

I suspect that I was unlucky and received a Frankenstein battery: cells recovered from warranty returned batteries that seemed decent. Nissan don't guarantee that you get a new battery, only that you'll have better than 8 bars of health for at least one year. It certainly cleared that very low bar. I have not contacted the dealer as yet, but don't expect any redress.

The climate in Brisbane, Australia where I live is temperate, roughly similar to the Bay Area, California. We usually get a dozen days a year where the temperature exceeds 30°C (86°F). The car is stored in a carport, not a closed garage. I only charge to 80%, except when I know I need more range (which will be more frequent now).

It started playing up about the same time that we bought our second EV (an MG ZS EV, not available in the USA). Coincidence, or EV envy? :mrgreen:
 
coulomb said:
I suspect that I was unlucky and received a Frankenstein battery: cells recovered from warranty returned batteries that seemed decent. Nissan don't guarantee that you get a new battery, only that you'll have better than 8 bars of health for at least one year. It certainly cleared that very low bar. I have not contacted the dealer as yet, but don't expect any redress.

In the US, I received the same warranty on my replacement battery as the original. Mine went one month out of warranty, and we had to pay the full amount. Would have got rid of the car, except Nissan had a sudden discount on batteries that made it worthwhile. It has been a year and a half, and working well so far (knocks wood).
 
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