Battery Upgrades are very possible

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Ouch, wire bonded packs - those are notoriously unreliable. Every single cell has a very susceptible point of failure and even single cell failure tends to cause complete pack failure - which has a high likelihood with thousands of cells under the hood.

And you need aggressive thermal management to actually keep those many cells from drifting too far apart. Small differences in the pack tend to magnify over time, see... the Leaf battery packs!

It's doable, but only if you're Tesla. Even then, they had very bad reliability for a few years before nailing down the wire bonding and battery management issues. And for what? It's not like 18650s have a cost advantage in the automotive space these days.

(it is funny to see a bunch of 18650s on top of the original Leaf battery though)
 
Mux,

It does seem like GM has managed to achieve similar levels of success with the battery (density, degradation), with their pouch approach. Telsa appears (per this uninformed enthusiast) to have overall better power train efficiency (Hyundai is close). Its too soon to know how well the Hyundai batteries 64 batteries hold up.

Do you think with the newer Leaf chemistry (2018-2020 40/62 packs) that they have significantly reduced the degradation problems?

Appreciate your responses. Looking forward to your 2021 US battery upgrade shop in the states! :)
 
The Leaf's battery problems are not down to the chemistry - they're fine. Even the old packs weren't bad at all, especially considering AESC was the only car manufacturer even trying to use LMO. All of the battery woes are down to not having any thermal management.

Lithium ion batteries have performance and degradation characteristics that vary WILDLY with temperature. In the Leaf 40's battery pack, it is common under almost all circumstances for the rear module stack to be easily 10 degrees C (about 20F) warmer than the frontmost stack. That by itself means the rear stack will degrade about twice as fast (on long timescales) but also that it has lower internal resistance, i.e. higher current load during both discharging and charging which also increases effective cycle load.

But probably most importantly, without a way to heat up the battery, under everything but short sleeves weather, the battery is routinely damagingly loaded. You can't expect a pack at near freezing to happily discharge at 3C (300+ amps) to accelerate, nor to accept regen braking as often and harshly as it does.

Then, when the battery has heated up, it has no way to cool down. If you fast charge at all, the battery jumps to 45C and stays hot for at least half a day after use. Batteries are actually fine being hot, consider Tesla's batteries which are actively heated up to accept a fast charge. The difference: they get cooled down to ambient as soon as you exit the car, keeping them hot and degrading for as short a time span as possible. Keep the battery hot for basically half the year and you've got a battery that degrades 4-8X as fast just because of Arrhenius' law.

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Oh and the 40/62 share chemistry with the 30! And the BMS as well. If you want to know how the cars/batteries last, look at historical 30kWh data and make it slightly worse for the 40 (due to higher thermal load) and slightly better for the 62 (due to higher battery mass and lower RMS C-rate, causing less heating on typical trips).

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On GMs batteries: It shows that even commonly derided LG E-type cells (as also used by EVBR) CAN be used and CAN last a long time without sacrificing system energy density too much. Again, the secret sauce is just an adequate BMS and some fairly aggressive power throttling when the car is threatening to exceed the datasheet performance. I think that's the ultimate dirty secret of batteries: they can be as crap as you like, if you manage them well they'll last forever.

Tesla doesn't necessarily have good drivetrain performance, they just have slightly more aerodynamic cars. Tesla's system efficiency is actually quite bad all things considered, but that has more to do with their excessive idle consumption and battery TMS overhead than their powertrain. The Ioniq is definitely in another class of car if efficiency is concerned; with no idle consumption and surprisingly little TMS overhead despite having decent battery life. Then again, the Ioniq seems to degrade about twice as fast as the Model 3 batteries, so is the overhead worth it? Probably! Again, I try to convey as much as possible that Tesla's batteries/cars/etc. aren't magic and aren't actually particularly good on any individual aspect (there are better examples all around) - they just have a really well-balanced package and know where to focus to give the best customer experience of the car. That's what makes a Tesla such a great car to recommend. You're not going to be disappointed, the best you can do is have differences of taste in certain design decisions.
 
mux:

What's your opinion in using the LG cells inside the Leaf cells can module (2 for each can module, as in the original situation) ? Is it safer?

And is it easy to get 62kWh pack to place on a older leaf?
 
Perhaps it can be done similar to a Renault ZOE ZE 40 battery. It uses the same LG chem batteries and the same number of them.
 
Have to compliment all poster on this subject - some good challenging conversations and better answers! IMO, this is one of the most interesting/informative posts on this forum! Please keep it non-personal and keep the information flowing.
Thanks!
 
jfr2006 said:
mux:

What's your opinion in using the LG cells inside the Leaf cells can module (2 for each can module, as in the original situation) ? Is it safer?

And is it easy to get 62kWh pack to place on a older leaf?

Safety... in which respect? If you're talking about the LG E63 cells (the ones used by at least three companies doing rebuilds now), they're the just as non-intrinsically safe as Leaf cells. I wouldn't call either cell type safer as a blanket statement. But the way battery rebuilds are being done now, there is some opportunity for unsafe battery management:

The LG cells are high density cells, not high performance cells - so they have relatively high internal resistance (about twice that of the Leaf cells), lower allowable charge current and lower (burst/continuous) discharge current. They also have significantly higher allowable capacity tolerance. Altogether this means the original BMS cannot be used with these cells. Without thermal management, you'd almost certainly need completely new hardware with much higher balancing current capability. With thermal management, I think you should be able to manage with the original hardware and just do some external management. Without thermal management, you're not going to have a safe battery system long-term with the original BMS.

The higher internal resistance and similar thermal properties to the original Leaf cells (in particular the 30/40/62 cells) means you'll get hot spots a bit quicker in an LG pack. You'd most likely need to throttle or limit QC sessions a bit more aggressively with a pack like that to avoid thermal runaway.

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Yes, we offer a kit to battery-swap a 62kWh battery under any Leaf. It's $1490 and comes with replacement rear springs+adapter brackets.
 
mux said:
Ouch, wire bonded packs - those are notoriously unreliable. Every single cell has a very susceptible point of failure and even single cell failure tends to cause complete pack failure - which has a high likelihood with thousands of cells under the hood.

So you're not going to back this up with anything?
 
coleafrado said:
mux said:
Ouch, wire bonded packs - those are notoriously unreliable. Every single cell has a very susceptible point of failure and even single cell failure tends to cause complete pack failure - which has a high likelihood with thousands of cells under the hood.

So you're not going to back this up with anything?

I think for the sake of this topic and keeping the conversation going and keeping in mind that for a lot of people at this forum, English is their *second* language and a lot of what we take for granted as native speakers, innuendo does not always translate. So maybe we could all qualify anything that we do say if it isn't so much of a text book reference as much as an experience reference, then that experience could be what is qualified for the statements. Such as the statement that Mux made or any statements I make here for example. :D :mrgreen:

Experience always trumps logic. :cool:
 
coleafrado said:
mux said:
Ouch, wire bonded packs - those are notoriously unreliable. Every single cell has a very susceptible point of failure and even single cell failure tends to cause complete pack failure - which has a high likelihood with thousands of cells under the hood.

So you're not going to back this up with anything?

Oh you actually want this explained - I didn't understand that from the earlier responses.

This is not very obvious to many people because there is some misleading 'marketing' (or whatever you can call it) around highly-parallellized packs. The idea most people have about Tesla packs is that even if one cell fails, there are many in parallel that can take up the slack. This is an oversimplification and in general is simply not the case, because:

- The remaining parallel cells will have proportionally higher load on them, during discharge (generally fine) but also during charging. Even a few percent higher charging current will impact charging rates at high SOC quite significantly. Again, see the Leaf batteries for what happens when a pack anisotropically ages - you get disproportionally rapid degradation and imbalance
- The entire rest of the pack is reduced in capacity proportional to just that one failed cell.
- That cell didn't fail for no reason; there is almost never a single incidental cell or bonding failure, it's always a cluster affecting either multiple parallel cells or single adjacent series cells as well.
- You're introducing - in the case of a full Tesla pack for instance - roughly 10k-15k points of failure per battery pack.
- Cooling of cylindrical cells is already quite hard, but especially when there's a failed and possibly deformed or venting cell nearby.

Within the industry it's pretty well known what the Tesla battery failure rate is. You won't be surprised that especially near the beginning of manufacture, it's rare to find packs without bonding faults, even in otherwise healthy packs. Within the battery refurbishment industry which we rely on heavily, it's basically impossible to refurbish entire Tesla packs. There is always one or two S/X modules that have a serious issue in replaced packs that enter the waste stream, and most of this has to do with their packaging strategy.

Now, it's also pretty well known in the industry that all of this has become much, MUCH better over the years. They've got 7 years of wire bonding experience to perfect the tech, but that doesn't mean wire bonding as a general technology has progressed - it's just Tesla that has improved by and large. Since last year - i.e. before we started mass production of our extender batteries - we have been looking around for alternatives to the batteries we're using now (large prismatics in modules with BMS attached), and one of the cheaper options would have been to buy a wire bonding machine and enter a supply contract with Samsung SDI or LG for 18650s. But we're getting quoted - at best - 0.1% bonding faults. Even premade packs have these kinds of reliability ratings. This is why wirebonded packs are basically never sold for automotive uses.

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A second line of critique on using 18650s in a non-thermally managed pack is their poor performance. Intrinsically, 18650s have bad packing density, i.e. you spend a lot of volume and weight on packaging compared to active material when compared to prismatics. To compensate, they have to either increase their active-material-to-electrode volume or decrease their energy density. This means for most 18650s, their specific power is quite low, at least for commercial offerings you can consider for EVs.

An NCR18650B, the 'tesla cell', has a continuous discharge rating of 3.35A and a peak of 6.7A. You can fit, realistically, something like 40kWh worth of these cells inside a Leaf battery enclosure, or about 96S40P. That translates into a 140/280A continuous/peak rating, or about 50/100kW continuous/peak - at 25C. The 24kWh pack of yesteryear has a cont/peak rating of 30/80kW at freezing! So you're looking at a significantly lower performance, especially at low temperatures.

Tesla gets around this by - first - just making giant battery packs (more parallel solves all these problems), but also making sure the pack never operates at low temperatures to begin with and gets cooled down really aggressively at high performance. You need to remove roughly 10kW of heat when charging at (old) supercharger rates with a 40kWh pack made out of NCR18650Bs, or about 2.5kW at chademo rates. Again, you can compensate for a lot of bad design options by improving in other ways. Tesla chose a **** battery construction from a reliability, maintainability and performance point of view, but coupled it to absolutely excellent thermal management to make batteries that can do anything you'd want from an EV battery and more. Better than a lot of their competition even, which is a truly underappreciated accomplishment.

Additionally, 18650s have bad overloading and aging characteristics. Again, bit less of an issue with packs that are well-managed, but lithium ion cells expand not just when they get (over)charged, but when they age as well - building up pressure inside the mechanically constrained shell. At about 70-75% SOH, a cell expands 5-10%, and that's something you can account for in prismatics - but not in 18650s. They just fail - and if you have thousands in a pack, that's a lot of opportunities for failure again.

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All of that is why I am VERY critical of 18650-based rebuilt batteries. It is a good choice for a multi-billion dollar company whose core technology is these batteries. It is a bad choice for a 2-man startup without a rigorous background in battery engineering. There is a lot you can do wrong with battery design in general, and all that gets magnified if you use cells that can barely handle the load, and need specialized BMSes to survive for a decent amount of time - oh and there's tons of labor going into production and QA, and it's mighty attractive to skimp on that last bit to preserve your margins.
 
Just sitting still? maybe, for once or twice. Operating? No, they generally can't tolerate temperatures over 55C. 70C is also well over the storage temperature of most interior plastics and glues, so you're basically melting your car at that point.
 
Mux

It appears that the newer chemistries (Tesla, Leaf, etc..) all appear to be more heat tolerant than the 2010-2014 chemistry. Watching Bjorn videos, Tesla’s will bring their batteries up over 50C for charging.

For the newer Leaf, the heat doesn’t seem to accelerate degradation in the way it did with early packs.

I don't know enough about the Bolt temps.
 
mux said:
Just sitting still? maybe, for once or twice. Operating? No, they generally can't tolerate temperatures over 55C. 70C is also well over the storage temperature of most interior plastics and glues, so you're basically melting your car at that point.

Yes, the glue melts and panels warp. Extender packs in warm climates may have to go underneath the vehicles.
https://goodcalculators.com/inside-car-temperature-calculator/
 
Here’s an interesting technical research paper which should help provide some with a better understanding of what occurs during
the charge and discharge process of Li Ion batteries as it relates to battery heat:

http://cpb.iphy.ac.cn/article/2016/1806/cpb_25_1_010509.html

Entropy and heat generation of lithium cells/batteries

Heat generation inside a battery It is important to understand how heat generated inside a battery. Heat is produced in batteries from two sources; electrochemical operation and Joule heating [5-7]. Reference [8] found a way to calculate the battery heat using a thermodynamic energy balance and cited frequently in the literature in its simplified form is shown in equation 3 below where the first term is the heat generation due to Joule heating and the second term is the heat generation due to entropy changes.

The most important factor that affects the energy losses of a cell is the polarizations. The total polarizations of a cell include: ( i ) Ohmic polarization, which causes the voltage drop during operation, and also consumes part of the useful energy as waste heat. The total ohmic polarization of a cell is the sum of the polarizations caused by the ionic resistance of the electrolyte, the electronic resistances of the electrodes, the current collectors and electrical tabs of both electrodes, and the contact resistance between the active materials and current collectors. The Ohmic polarization follows Ohm’s law, with a linear relationship between the current and the voltage drop. (ii) activation polarization, which drives the electrochemical reaction at the electrode/electrolyte interface, and (iii) concentration polarization, which appears due to the concentration differences between the reactants and the products at the electrode/electrolyte interface and the concentration differences in the bulks as a result of mass transferring.
All these polarizations cause consumption of Gibbs energy, which is given off as heat energy during the charge–discharge process.

Conclusion
The changes of entropy and heat generation of lithium cells are ineluctable. Investigations of them are a part of the research into lithium cells. Understanding the change of entropy and heat generation can benefit the study of the state and the safety of lithium cells. The quantification of the change of entropy and heat generation can improve the level of management and control for security of lithium cells/batteries.

Battery Heat Loss = I^2 * R + d (entropy)/dt, where R is the typically measured battery resistance
 
DougWantsALeaf said:
Mux

It appears that the newer chemistries (Tesla, Leaf, etc..) all appear to be more heat tolerant than the 2010-2014 chemistry. Watching Bjorn videos, Tesla’s will bring their batteries up over 50C for charging.

For the newer Leaf, the heat doesn’t seem to accelerate degradation in the way it did with early packs.

I don't know enough about the Bolt temps.

Yes, LMO and NCM do respond differently to high temperatures. But the actual temperature sensitivity is a much more complex issue. Keep in mind that for the same usage, newer Leaf packs experience lower C-rates during charging and discharging and less charge/discharge cycles. This has been discussed before in this thread; higher stress on the pack dominates battery life for small batteries.

The thermal management of Tesla has been discussed at length as well: Batteries have better performance at higher temperatures, but also much faster degradation. Tesla brings the packs up to 50C for DC QC sessions, but then rapidly cools them down afterwards to avoid degradation. Leaf packs sit hot and idle for many hours after use, and that's the reason they degrade so quickly. This is why we don't call thermal management 'battery cooling'. We're not cooling the batteries, we're getting them to the correct temperature for the job at all times. This sometimes involves removing heat, and sometimes involves adding heat. Most of the time it just involves circulating coolant to make sure all parts of the battery are at precisely the same temperature, avoiding anisotropic stress.
 
Yes, LMO and NCM do respond differently to high temperatures. But the actual temperature sensitivity is a much more complex issue. Keep in mind that for the same usage, newer Leaf packs experience lower C-rates during charging and discharging and less charge/discharge cycles. This has been discussed before in this thread; higher stress on the pack dominates battery life for small batteries.

The first generation "Canary" packs degraded in moderate to high ambient air temperatures, not just when heated internally. There are plenty of stories of people who babied the cars, drove gently, never or rarely quick charged, but who still experienced the same high rates of degradation. Only those with cars in climates that were actually on the cool side avoided the infamous rapid bar losses.
 
I've interpreted the previous question way too nuanced. Yes, pre-Lizard packs fared horribly in hot weather. And cold weather for that matter, they were **** packs.

That's not an LMO vs NCM issue, which is what I was answering.
 
Hi, mux:

I don't think you fully understood my previous questions, so i will rephrase them and add another one.

1 - About the LG cells inside the leaf cells can, i was talking about the cell used by Jesus from evbatteryupgrades. Just as in theLeaf that has 2 cells for "can", the process would be the same, but with LG cells. They don't seem that bad.

2 - When i asked you about the upgrade process of my battery to a Leaf 62kWh battery, the idea was the following: I have a 30kwh Leaf model that i would take to you and you would replace the battery with one of a 62kWh Leaf. The question was: is it easy to get such a battery pack?

3 - I think i remember seeing somewhere that you where working a adding CCS to Leaf. How is that process? Would it be replacing the Chademo connector, or would it keep the Chademo adapter and replace the J1772 connector with a type 2 connector and a the CCS pins, so we would keep the Chademo, Type 2 and CCS connectors?

Regards.
 
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