Forged Rays Volk Wheels installed - stock wheels are HEAVY!

OK guys, its been since Sept. Where are the pics and data???

Pic is on page 6. No A-B-A data because I only had the original wheels for a few weeks, then moved the tires to the new wheels, so could not go back and do any comparison. I also do not have any routes that a do frequently. I did notice that my carwings readings went up about 5-8% (mi/kWh) from the old wheels to the new and that matches my gut feel for the improvement. Absolute readings from Carwings is bogus, but I trust the 6.5% improvement is valid. 5 extra miles means a lot to this car. Plus it looks better.

drees said:

nader said:

The Rota website is the most un-updated site on the net. It looks exactly like it did in the year 2000. IWhat they show doesn't translate into what is available. There are a handful of wheels on their site that aren't even available in our market.

The larger dealers like wheeldude.com and racinglab.com can do special orders but be prepared to wait at least 2 months.

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Good point - that said, wheeldude.com does have a 16x7 5x114.5 +45 Slipstream listed.

Anyone know what the hub bore is on the LEAF? Looks all the 5x114.5 Rotas on wheeldude.com are 73mm...

Edit: Wiki says 66.1 mm - I guess a hub bore spacer should be used?

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I'd just like to officially complain that it's 66.1 mm on Nissan and 64.1 mm on Honda. Makes it expensive to impossible depending on your attitude to use wheels from one on the other.

You can buy 2mm thick rings going from Nissan to Honda, but going the other way requires enlarging the center bore with equipment that will cut aluminum (mill, lathe, router, drill). Not something I want to do by hand even watching the crazy youtube videos where someone does that.

I'd just like to officially complain that it's 66.1 mm on Nissan and 64.1 mm on Honda. Makes it expensive to impossible depending on your attitude to use wheels from one on the other.

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Just want to point out that the bore isn't load bearing - it's used mostly for convenience to hold and center the wheel while tightening the lugs. The lugs do 100% of load bearing - otherwise there wouldn't be plastic centering rings.

So it's only using smaller bore wheels on bigger bore cars that's an issue - the other direction is not a problem.

Best,
Tal

Howdy Folks,

I just joined, just got my Leaf and have been reading the forum. I especially liked this thread and happened across a set of the 18" Mazdaspeed Rays wheels like Skywagon's. I've been driving on them for a couple weeks now. I had to run a 5mm spacer to safely clear the front calipers. The tires that came with the wheels are 225/45/18 so they are a bit tall and do slightly rub when I turn the wheel.

Yeah yeah, I know this thread has been inactive for three years but thought some folks may want to see these wheels and hear about 18" wheels on the car. I have noticed that it is a little more sluggish to accelerate due to the mass be concentrated further out. The weight is actually down 2 lbs over the stock setup.

Can you tell it's still at stock ride height, ha! I just got a set of Megan racing coilovers that I'm looking forward to installing. I think I want to go with 17" wheels, prob RPF1s, unless there's 17" forged wheel out there for not too much money in a 17x7 size.




I'm hoping to get the car looking more like the following image from the Tein coilover pics. This wheel looks like the O.Z. I'm not sure the size? I'm guessing 17" or 18"

I have noticed that it is a little more sluggish to accelerate due to the mass be concentrated further out.

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??? You have effectively raised the final gearing with the taller wheels, and it's this higher ratio that is lowering acceleration.