2019 Leaf battery overheating

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I have used this “entertainment” app since it was made available. It has allowed me to fully utilize the traction battery’s capacity, making the decisions regarding speed, route and charging be based on data rather than guesswork.

It also provides a consistent way to compare traction batteries, catch those who have reset the capacity bars and evalute the condition of used cars.

Its ability to view and clear DTCs allows for simple fixes and reduces reliance on blindly accepting the evaluation of a problem by a repair facility.

Rather than entertaining, I would label it invaluable.

Disclaimer: As far as I know, I have never met Turbo3 nor is he a friend.

OrientExpress said:
There is no visibility as to how LEAF Spy is interpreting, and in most cases what the CANBUS data it is reading and presenting actually means (sure the setting for doors and TPMS are easy to figure out). Lots of conjecture and made up units of measure, but with no certification, its got no value other than as an entertainment app.

I'm friends with the author of LEAF Spy, and he is great guy, but even he will admit the many of the readings presented are conjecture. In the end it's a hobbyist app for entertainment and shouldn't be taken too seriously.
 
OrientExpress said:
LeftieBiker said:
First, you seem to have been trying to use "test" results from very mild weather to extrapolate to hot weather. Second, when the Leaf temp "gauge" is in the red it is definitely cause for worry. I don't know why you think otherwise, but please keep in mind that the Red zone of ANY temp gauge should be considered a definite warning. Manufacturers don't use red because they think it's pretty.

No, I am using the tests I conducted to extrapolate with different weather conditions simply because others have done essentially the same test in much hotter conditions in Arizona and come up with similar results. With the current LEAF batteries, elevated cold and hot environments are not as big of a factor as they were with pervious generations of the battery.

Now I do have expressed concerns with the HMI of the LEAF temperature gauge to those responsible for it, because there are lots of folks that come to the same conclusion that you have, based on their historical perceptions. Nissan's subtle approach using long and short blue and red marks to indicate operating range does not click with many of those that use preconceived notions and fail to RTFM. The Goldilocks area is between the short blue line and the short red line.

The other issue I've seen is that many people that come to your conclusion about what the gauge is describing is that they may not be familiar with a car that has automatic systems that protect the vehicle if there is a critical overheat (and underheat) situation by restricting the power available to the car until it is back within an acceptable operational temperature. Just about every BEV has a "turtle-lite" mode like the LEAFs that is designed to keep the vehicle's battery from being damaged. The car takes care of the situation that you are worried about so you don't have to.

As described in the owners manual the area between the short and long red mark is the warning area you are thinking of, and beyond the long red bar is where the automatic battery protection systems activate. The same goes for the short and long blue marks. In all the LEAFs I have driven over the years and all of the purposeful abuse I have laid on them, I have never had a situation where the temperature bar has gone beyond the first short red mark. Of course it does happen, and if one does get into that situation, the solution is to either drive slower, or stop for a while and let the battery cool a bit. I've found that the current battery can recover from being at the short red bar in 15-30 minutes by simply stopping or driving slower.

So again for the umpteenth time here is the section that describes that gauge. The key takeaway is that if the white bar on the gauge is between the short blue and short red mark, regardless where on the gauge it is, that is the normal operating temperature.

battery-temp.png


The sad thing here is that what you posted from the manual confirms what I wrote, not what you wrote (I added emphasis to help you see that). Thanks for posting it. No thanks for implying that I know less than you about cars - that one won't fly with anybody here, as you have demonstrated a little too much ignorance of basic terminology and principles over the last year or so.
 
91040 said:
I have used this “entertainment” app since it was made available. It has allowed me to fully utilize the traction battery’s capacity, making the decisions regarding speed, route and charging be based on data rather than guesswork.

It also provides a consistent way to compare traction batteries, catch those who have reset the capacity bars and evalute the condition of used cars.

Its ability to view and clear DTCs allows for simple fixes and reduces reliance on blindly accepting the evaluation of a problem by a repair facility.

Rather than entertaining, I would label it invaluable.
OE is a shill. His methods are similar to those used by tobacco lobbyists from a generation ago and AGW denialists today. I have to admit that he is competent at what he does.
 
SageBrush said:
OE is a shill. His methods are similar to those used by tobacco lobbyists from a generation ago and AGW denialists today. I have to admit that he is competent at what he does.

I hear that a lot from the old backwoods hillbillies. They are a constant source of comic relief.
 
LeftieBiker said:
OrientExpress said:
LeftieBiker said:
First, you seem to have been trying to use "test" results from very mild weather to extrapolate to hot weather. Second, when the Leaf temp "gauge" is in the red it is definitely cause for worry. I don't know why you think otherwise, but please keep in mind that the Red zone of ANY temp gauge should be considered a definite warning. Manufacturers don't use red because they think it's pretty.

No, I am using the tests I conducted to extrapolate with different weather conditions simply because others have done essentially the same test in much hotter conditions in Arizona and come up with similar results. With the current LEAF batteries, elevated cold and hot environments are not as big of a factor as they were with pervious generations of the battery.

Now I do have expressed concerns with the HMI of the LEAF temperature gauge to those responsible for it, because there are lots of folks that come to the same conclusion that you have, based on their historical perceptions. Nissan's subtle approach using long and short blue and red marks to indicate operating range does not click with many of those that use preconceived notions and fail to RTFM. The Goldilocks area is between the short blue line and the short red line.

The other issue I've seen is that many people that come to your conclusion about what the gauge is describing is that they may not be familiar with a car that has automatic systems that protect the vehicle if there is a critical overheat (and underheat) situation by restricting the power available to the car until it is back within an acceptable operational temperature. Just about every BEV has a "turtle-lite" mode like the LEAFs that is designed to keep the vehicle's battery from being damaged. The car takes care of the situation that you are worried about so you don't have to.

As described in the owners manual the area between the short and long red mark is the warning area you are thinking of, and beyond the long red bar is where the automatic battery protection systems activate. The same goes for the short and long blue marks. In all the LEAFs I have driven over the years and all of the purposeful abuse I have laid on them, I have never had a situation where the temperature bar has gone beyond the first short red mark. Of course it does happen, and if one does get into that situation, the solution is to either drive slower, or stop for a while and let the battery cool a bit. I've found that the current battery can recover from being at the short red bar in 15-30 minutes by simply stopping or driving slower.

So again for the umpteenth time here is the section that describes that gauge. The key takeaway is that if the white bar on the gauge is between the short blue and short red mark, regardless where on the gauge it is, that is the normal operating temperature.

battery-temp.png


The sad thing here is that what you posted from the manual confirms what I wrote, not what you wrote (I added emphasis to help you see that). Thanks for posting it. No thanks for implying that I know less than you about cars - that one won't fly with anybody here, as you have demonstrated a little too much ignorance of basic terminology and principles over the last year or so.

As I posted previously, my first 2019 40 kWh QC resulted in the battery temp reaching 100F (slightly to the right of the mid point ~ 80F,
per LeafSpy) after 30 minutes, where the average charging power was about 32-33 kW. The battery temp was about the same as
ambient (72F) at the start of charging. Given past Leaf data presented on MNL, my view is that Leaf battery temps that approach 100F
or more become problematic, i.e. enhance battery degradation, whether the result of charging or high speed driving. That issue
compounds the high ambient temp that some 2019 40 kWh Leafs may be subjected to during the summer months. So my driving plans
are to only QC once per day and only when absolutely necessary. The present range of the 2019 Leaf based on about 1500 miles
of driving, should be more than adequate to support my business needs without QCing, which was necessitated with the 24 kWh
Leaf.
 
OrientExpress said:
SageBrush said:
Don't you think it is time to get LeafSpy ? You have been a noob long enough.
Or does it interfere with your shill duties ?

Nope, Until LEAF Spy can be certified by Nissan as being a credible measurement tool, it serves no purpose other than to entertain.

LEAF Spy is a perfect toy for experts such as yourself however.

Orient Express,

Since you seem to be a Nissan expert, perhaps you can tell me how and where I can purchase a device certified by Nissan that lets me read accurate data from the car's various modules (especially data related to the traction battery) and perform maintenance/repair functions. As far as I know, Consult 3+ is the only device that might be certified by Nissan and has the capability I want. Unfortunately, I have been unable to find out how/where I can purchase it as a private individual so that leaves me with Leaf Spy Pro as the best alternative that I can actually obtain. I want to send a really big THANK YOU to Jim for creating the application!
 
GerryAZ said:
As far as I know, Consult 3+ is the only device that might be certified by Nissan and has the capability I want. Unfortunately, I have been unable to find out how/where I can purchase it as a private individual so that leaves me with Leaf Spy Pro as the best alternative that I can actually obtain. I want to send a really big THANK YOU to Jim for creating the application!
https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/ecm07.aspx leads to https://www.nissantechmate.com/. It's not surprisingly, very expensive. There's also the subscription fees: https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/dept.aspx?dept_id=25.

Also, ditto on the thank you.
 
The first quick charge of the morning ran at 35kW to about 65% capacity and then throttled down to 28kW until it finished at 92%, 45 minutes from start. An observation is that I have never had any LEAF, of any year, charge at more than 35kW at any of our local 50kW chargers.

Other than your 2018, you had NO way of seeing the charging rates so this statement is half true by default. Your statement on Facebook is you only use the Nissan instrumentation so you are either living selectively or somehow missed the thousands of posts showing charging speeds at 45 KW or more. I can show you LEAF Spy, Nissan Dash or Public Charging company records ALL verifying the same charging speed. Which do you prefer?

For this third fast charge, the car started at 18kW and stayed there until the end of the charge session 45 minutes later. 18kW seems to be the floor for the '19 40kWh LEAF.

You didn't top out on the temperature gauge so your "floor" comment is complete conjecture. At the upper range of that temperature gauge reading, your charge rate would actually only be 16.6 KW.

In comparison to my 2018 40kWh car, on the third Quick Charge it would have been charging at about 12 kW and lower, so clearly there are some changes in the charging profile on the 2019 car.

Interesting comment from someone who claimed RapidGate was a non issue. Since you still have that 2018, it should be easy to post a picture of this 12 KW starting charge rate.

I will check back here periodically for that picture.
 
OrientExpress said:
Nope, Until LEAF Spy can be certified by Nissan as being a credible measurement tool, it serves no purpose other than to entertain.

I can see this attitude from a journalist. LeafSpy is not a fully creditable source of information.

Yet LeafSpy is useful. And can be verified as mostly correct by use.

Distance to empty, for example.

I'd like to have the dashboard displays from Nissan give me distance to empty (aka GOM) that I could trust. However, I know that that requires more information that the car has. Picture this: I'm sitting in my garage, and I'm getting ready to go somewhere.

Does the car know where? It might guess, based on day of week and time of day, that I'm about ready to do my usual commute. But that's a guess. And other times it probably can't even guess. Unless it can hack DuckDuckGo.

Does the car know what the weather is outside the garage. I do, but the car doesn't unless it receives weather reports. Does the car know that the roads I'm about to drive on have 10 cm of snow? Or not? Have they been plowed? Or not? Oh and the temperature is 18 F and the wind is blowing out of the south.

Does the car know if I'm in a hurry, or if I'm going to drive to stretch range? I don't see how.

I know more than the car, and can guess and then enter a miles per kWh into LeafSpy, and LeafSpy can project a range to Low Battery Warning. I use this to manage charging, driving and sometime route to arrive home above or just below LBW. Why? I want margin. Keeps me from worrying. The LEAF's gauges don't give me the ability. I can project a more accurate miles per kWh than the car car, mostly because I know more than the car does.

I'd like the same functionality from the car, of course. Let me adjust the (km/m)/kWhr used by the range estimator based on what I know. Let me set a different end point, perhaps 50% plus margin on an out and back run, or LBW, or VLBW, or something else.

The battery temperature bar is a joke. Please pass on the feedback that a real temperature gauge reading in F/C is useful.
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^

+1. Range estimates in your garage is one thing but lez be real; the MOST important part of the range is the bottom. All cars have reserve of a little or a lot. LEAF Spy simply portrays reality using information FROM the car. It is quite easy to predict the last mile in your car and be quite close.

It is by a long long long shot, the most useful thing about my LEAF. It is really quite sad that every EV doesn't have this. (would save thousands a lot of embarrassment if gassers had it as well. ;) )
 
Thank you for all of your LEAFSpy testimonies.

Now granted all of you appear to be enthusiasts that like to push boundaries, sort through the jumble of data that LEAF Spy displays to sleuth trends and develop hypotheses, even though LEAF Spy does not produce much real data at all, (DTCs and clear CanBus messages like for tire pressure, etc, not withstanding), but rather presents data derived by speculative assumptions. The silver-lining is that it provides the same derived data consistently so all of the readings are questionable which does give some basis.

And sure you can look at DTCs and change some minor parameters, but how often does that happen?

The key thread from all of the things that you like about LEAF Spy is that it allows you to stretch the boundaries of what your car is capable of, and that" beat the system" satisfaction is really called entertainment.

We all have some sort of interest that we like to get under the hood on, for example mine is meteorology. The key that needs to be respected is that the data you have from LEAF Spy or any other sort of similar thing is that it is speculative not empirical. So at the minimum you have to acknowledge that.

98% of the LEAF world does not care about the things that you enjoy using LEAF Spy for, they are happy with a temperature gauge that simplifies things saying "if the gauge is between these two points, everything is fine."

They are also happy with the navigation system that can provide credible route planning taking into consideration weather, and topology, traffic. The LEAFs range estimation route planning is as good or better of an estimate as you could by thrashing through what LEAF Spy displays. But that's not the point, it's fun doing it that way, and when something is fun, it's entertainment.

So to your point, yes LEAF Spy is useful as an entertainment tool, regardless of what you choose to call it. It's fun to speculate what is happening to your LEAF in a finer granuarity and there are several things that you can infer from looking at its data, but it is not any more useful than just looking at the information that the car presents in its native displays.

I don't mean to insult any of you, and see where you are coming from, so please keep using LEAF Spy to fuel the "how many angels can fit on a pin" discussions. They are quite entertaining.
 
OrientExpress said:
blah blah blah
What a pile of BS.

Let's ask @turbo3 if he has any doubts about the LeafSpy reported battery temperatures being correct (at least within the limits of the sensors themselves.) Put another way, are the LS reported temperatures the same a Nissan approved tool would report ?
 
Put another way, are the LS reported temperatures the same a Nissan approved tool would report ?

I guess that is what an bitter old idiot would suggest, but not an expert such as yourself.

The real question is was is the normalized operational heat range of the cells that are generating the heat. Do know what that is? Now remember it’s 2019, and there have been a few improvements in the field lately.
 
OrientExpress said:
The real question is was is the normalized operational heat range of the cells that are generating the heat.
The question is why you are hiding from LeafSpy.

You can try to argue that 50C is good for your battery all you want, but at least you will know the temperature.
 
The real question is why would you insist on using a measurement tool whose calibration can’t be confirmed?

What counts is that the manufacturer warrants a car to operate normally as long as it stays within a certain temperature range. It’s irrelevant what is behind that range. If the car gets beyond that range the manufacturer provides instructions on how the operation can get it back in range, and safely systems to get the car back in range if the operator does not take action.
 
LeftieBiker said:
This is getting pretty unproductive. Why don't we leave it at "OrientExpress doesn't think LeafSpy is a good tool, and everyone else does."...?
I haven't had time chime on on Leaf Spy's usefulness (which it is very), but it's more than that.

OE actively discredits Leaf Spy and passes on information that may mislead newbies to Leaf and EVs. While I would never want to assert that 77.5 watt-hours per gid * gids = kWh as some do and that SOH MUST equal remaining capacity, the raw numbers themselves and comparing notes is useful and has been useful to myself and others (here, at work, on Leaf FB groups, etc.)

I wouldn't be surprised if he secretly runs it, never posts the results and continues spouting the various Nissan "company line" or what he thinks Nissan's messaging should be (e.g. claims that he had no battery degradation on his '14).

Will chime in more later tonight/this week.
 
OrientExpress said:
The real question is why would you insist on using a measurement tool whose calibration can’t be confirmed?
The "calibration" as you call it is at the level of the battery temperature sensors (if it happens at all), way before the can-bus. LeafSpy does not "calibrate" anything. You might mean scale, but that is easily verified.
 
LeftieBiker said:
This is getting pretty unproductive. Why don't we leave it at "OrientExpress doesn't think LeafSpy is a good tool, and everyone else does."...?


Thank You. Everyone can use whatever they want to pontificate with.
 
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