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I got the spare tire on its rim.
Only problem is the local tire shop wouldn't put it on. They were being chicken chits about it.
But the shop that quoted me $180, plus tax in the next town over put it on for me, for $6.
So total price for a new spare was just under $90.
The date code on the tire was 2016 and that's good enough for me to call it new.
The date code on the ruined spare was 2004.
Yeah I would expect a 14 year old spare tire to shred on contact with the road under the weight of a car.
(Assuming that the spare got put on the car in 2018 and I found it in 2019)
 
Has any body purchased the Pirelli P4 Four Season Plus - 205/55R16 91H Tires for new tires. SAMS club has 4 including mounting for $370.00 and they are 70,000 mileage warranty.

Just wondering.
 
I put some tires on that were not low rolling resistance and it really messed up my range.
 
I got a pretty nice extendable tire iron from Walmart for $16. They have a screw jack for $25, but for $25 it looks pretty cheap, I like most of the OE ones better.
I have a screw jack out of a nissan sentra I found in the garage when I moved in. I stuck that in the leaf for now.
I will try to go to the junk yard and find some screw jacks out of different vehicles to see if I can find a better one.
Because the leaf is heavier than a sentra s-box.
 
Leftiebiker,

What was your final solution on the spare tire for your 2018 Leaf?

At present I am trying to secure a full size from some junkyard to keep in my garage for an emergency and help me rotate my tires.
 
I have a full spare, tire and wheel for 2012 SL, no mileage on tire, never mounted. I bought it as a spare but have never needed it. Now that my LEAF is limited to less than 40 miles, I doubt that I ever will. $150 seems fair. PM if interested.
 
Leftiebiker,

What was your final solution on the spare tire for your 2018 Leaf?

I'm not using one. HOWEVER, I'm considering trying the spare and false floor I still have in the '18, for a different reason: I bought a folding electric-assist bicycle so I can ride on paths and trails elsewhere, and that split-level floor may be a problem. If the spare and false floor level the cargo area, I may install the spare and use the floor for that reason. I don't need the lost cargo space.
 
Ordered this from ebay for $13 to lift the leaf and not destroy the pinched sheet metal underneath.:
USA Ship Universal Slotted Frame Rail Floor Jack Pad Auto Lift Rubber Block Disc

Discount Tire sold me a new tire (215/50 R17 95W 40Kmile) and new rim (Nissan factory requirement 5-114.3 bolt pattern on the rim (Atom)) and mounted the tire on the rim for $148.50 + tax $10.33= total $158.83

They offered to mount it on the front of the car to allay my worry about the fit and function of the rim. I decided not to have them mount the rim because their floor jack, IMHO, would probably have bent the pinch rail.

Pinch rail pad is supposed to arrive this Thursday. I will post my success or failure with mounting the tire and the drive ability.
 
What I have always done is put a hydraulic jack with a piece of wood on the platform way up under the car then jack the car on the heaviest structural part I can reach with the jack, then use the screw jack as a jack stand and put it on the pinch panel.

Its tire rotation time on the leaf again while the wheel is off I have a few doughnuts from other vehicles to try.
 
Looks like a 125/80 on a 16 inch rim out of a late 2000s hyundai sonata works well too.

Its almost like all these foreign car manufacturers got their original hub and wheel manufacturing equipment from the same place lol.
 
Oilpan4 said:
Looks like a 125/80 on a 16 inch rim out of a late 2000s hyundai sonata works well too.

Its almost like all these foreign car manufacturers got their original hub and wheel manufacturing equipment from the same place lol.

Did you try it on a front wheel? That's the real test for Leaf fitment.
 
Yes I tried it on the front.
Looks the front is where that 40mm off set is really needed.

Even my 12 inch trailer tires will fit on the back, heck almost anything 5 on 4.5 inch will fit on the back that isn't a tiny 8 inch trailer wheel.
 
I have been reading post about how important it is to torque the lug nuts to Nissan's specs. Problem is I don't know what they are. I am pretty sure you guys do and hope you will share. Thanks
 
For most accurate torquing you are supposed to put the torque wrench on the highest setting and pop it 6 times.
(I only do this when torquing stuff like ring gear bolts, cylinder head bolts, main bolts, connecting rod bolts, ect)

I have always put a dot of grease or antiseize on the stud then torqued to 80 ft•lb, drive the car a short distance then torqued them to 90ft•lb.

When the tire shop puts them on I can put my torque wrench on the highest setting of 150 ft•lb, flip the lever to "L" and usually pop the torque wrench with out loosening the lugs at all.
Between that and always crushing the pinch panel with their floor jack, I only take the wheels by them selves to the tire shop if possible.

Been putting a dot of grease or anti seize on the studs and torque lugs all cars with 12 mm and 7/16 lugs to 90 ft•lb since about 2002.
 
Hope I copied this correctly into the forum. My wife brought this pdf up on the pc. I tried to do a direct copy but was unsuccessful. I deleted the extraneous data and put reformatted copy below. I torqued to lefties spec and tried the new spare on the front. No problems other than no TPMS on that tire. We hit 6500 miles and the wear diff btwn front and rear is very apparent. I rotated cross pattern and not LF to LR as the manual adv. Oh well its done. I think I will be raising pressure from 36lb to 40 lb based on wear I am seeing.

The wheel nuts must be kept tightened to the specification at all times. It is recommended that
wheel nuts be tightened to the specification at each tire rotation interval.
WARNING
• After rotating the tires, check and adjust the tire pressure.
• Retighten the wheel nuts when the vehicle has been driven for 600 miles (also in cases of a flat tire, etc.).

CHANGING WHEELS AND TIRES: Tire rotation-NISSAN recommends rotating the tires every 5,000 miles.
As soon as possible, tighten the wheel nuts to the specified torque using a torque wrench.
Wheel nut tightening torque: 83 ft-lb (112 N·m) Maintenance and do-it yourself 8-37
 
Oh and I forgot to say the Pinch rail pad for the jack performed well and no damage to rail.
I want to put out a thanks to everyone for the feedback.
- Oh, one other thing. When I had the front tire up I could rotate it a tad forward and back and could hear a clunk which I think came from the gearbox, though my wife insist it was coming from the back of the wheel. I really don't know and both L and R wheels exhibited the same sound. Should I be worried?
 
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