6.6 kw charger on 2013 S model.

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The old one was 292C0-3NF9A, the new one is 292C0-3NF3C. I bought it from ebay from Nort Carolina US with 400$. The seller advertise it as 292C0-3NF3B but is 3C. It seems it has more in stoc because the item is still for sale.
Unfortunately shipping to East Europe was very expensive(300-400$), so I've asked a relative who lives in US to buy it and ship it by sea. I had to wait about 3 months until it finally arrived.
 
2 weeks update: I did with the new charger more than 600km and about 10 charging, with no issues.

Some more details and some advices if sombody is trying to do the swap:

No reprogramming or other software setting are need. I had LeafSpy in the case I need to delete some errors, but it wasn't necessary. After the swap, the 6KW option is automatically displayed.

The swap itself probably took 2 hours from the moment I've started to remove the screws of the charger.
The difficult parts are removing some of the screws which connect the charger with the rest of the motor, because of the small space around them, removing the screws of the electrical connection between the charger and motor(no direct visibility) and of course removing the top cover because it is glued. For the cover it was hard until I found a tool and a position to properly force it without damaging anything. Then, when it started to move a little bit, it was easy to insert a screwdriver in the gap.
Then I have some issues removing the rubber water pipes because of the metal elastic ring which keeps them tight and finding a cap for them.

Before removing the 12V battery, wait 5 minutes so the computers will stop. At least that says in the Service manual, otherwise it might generate some errors on computers. After you remove the 12V you can't open your trunk anymore, so take out everything you need.

I lost a lot of time with the screws around the windshield. A couple of them were hard to unscrew and screw them back. The space is tight and you have to take care to not break the glass.

Please don't touch any electrical components on the boards because an electrostatic discharge might destroy them. Also don't touch the contact area of high power connectors. They have to make a very good contact with each other for the high power they transfer. Before I've removed the screws for the power connectors, I tried to estimate the maximum force at they were screwed. I don't know how sensitive they are if too much screwing force is applied.

The puzzling part was removing the high voltage switch. It is plastic and I was afraid it will brake.

Also when manipulating the new charger, pay attention to not put the weight of it on the cooling water pipe. It is glued or something. Mine bent and loosened, so I had to glue it to have no leaks.

And of course this is my experience with the swap. There is a risk involved, so be prepared.
 
bzalex said:
2 weeks update: I did with the new charger more than 600km and about 10 charging, with no issues.

Some more details and some advices if sombody is trying to do the swap:

No reprogramming or other software setting are need. I had LeafSpy in the case I need to delete some errors, but it wasn't necessary. After the swap, the 6KW option is automatically displayed.

The swap itself probably took 2 hours from the moment I've started to remove the screws of the charger.
The difficult parts are removing some of the screws which connect the charger with the rest of the motor, because of the small space around them, removing the screws of the electrical connection between the charger and motor(no direct visibility) and of course removing the top cover because it is glued. For the cover it was hard until I found a tool and a position to properly force it without damaging anything. Then, when it started to move a little bit, it was easy to insert a screwdriver in the gap.
Then I have some issues removing the rubber water pipes because of the metal elastic ring which keeps them tight and finding a cap for them.

Before removing the 12V battery, wait 5 minutes so the computers will stop. At least that says in the Service manual, otherwise it might generate some errors on computers. After you remove the 12V you can't open your trunk anymore, so take out everything you need.

I lost a lot of time with the screws around the windshield. A couple of them were hard to unscrew and screw them back. The space is tight and you have to take care to not break the glass.

Please don't touch any electrical components on the boards because an electrostatic discharge might destroy them. Also don't touch the contact area of high power connectors. They have to make a very good contact with each other for the high power they transfer. Before I've removed the screws for the power connectors, I tried to estimate the maximum force at they were screwed. I don't know how sensitive they are if too much screwing force is applied.

The puzzling part was removing the high voltage switch. It is plastic and I was afraid it will brake.

Also when manipulating the new charger, pay attention to not put the weight of it on the cooling water pipe. It is glued or something. Mine bent and loosened, so I had to glue it to have no leaks.

And of course this is my experience with the swap. There is a risk involved, so be prepared.

Great job!
 
Does anyone know if the chargers are the same throughout the world? I'm looking to import a 292C03NF3B from the USA to Nz to install on a Japanese import 2014. Also have there been any canbus difficulties or differences when doing this swap?

Thanks for your help all!
 
The canbus seems to be the same. The only thing is you will need leafspy pro for resetting DTC.
A 292C0-3NF3B should be compatible with any charger listed on the second page, with a car made before (mid?) 2015.

I saw that UK part number are different in the opposite of right-hand drive cars even for motors parts... A bit weird.

If you think about buying it from ebay, let me know if it works because the seller doesn't answer any question (automatic absence answer).
 
TimLee said:
powersurge said:
I believe that we are talking about a possible danger in plugging the evse into the car BEFORE the evse is plugged into the 120v a/c outlet??? I don't think that it really matters...
It matters if the LEAF is set to start charging immediately as the 120V plug will arc pretty bad when plugged in.

Didn't matter in your case as timer was off.

And I agree with QueenBee that portable 120V has same concern as hard wired 120V connection on the LEAF.

The key to safety in both cases is doing things in the right sequence.
It still doesn't matter as the EVSE has to initialize and put out the pilot signal before the car can open the contactors. It takes a couple of seconds for that to occur.

Unplugging is a problem, plugging in is not.
 
I didn't realise there was potentially a difference between lhd and rhd chargers. I'll have to look at the 3.3kW charger I have now and see if it matches a part number in that list a few pages back.

Otherwise are the cables and everything the same? For those that did the swap, no other upgrades were required right?

Thanks!
 
I saw that because I had the opportunity to buy one from the UK (quite expensive) and not sure it would work so I didn't get it.
For sure every connector was at the same place! Anyway it would cost to much to change the design of a motor just because of that.

It was a 292C0-4NR3B a rest of the world part would be 4NP3B but that is for after 2015. Before... No idea!
 
Glad to inform you all, I did it too!

Switched from a 292C0-3NF5B to a 292C0-3NF3D, no problem, no need of leafspy pro to remove some DTC!

Took us (my wife is a very helpful) 2h30 from starting to the first try to recharge at 6kW.
Then I would say an other 30 to 45min to finish reassembling (with HV and 12V battery disconnected).

Just some little bubbles are left in the coolant circuit but getting ride of them is very annoying!

I saw something very useful for opening the lid of the charger somewhere over the internet.

Dashboard before :
https://imgur.com/P513NOE

Opening lid trick:
https://imgur.com/ttvS8uL
The trick is to unscrew 2 black screws very close together (I picked front left) from under the lid and put longer one with a piece of metal to protect the lid (this is why you see 2 big washers)

Dashboard after :
https://imgur.com/7s59eQO

Charging session increasing amps :
https://imgur.com/S8GkSMx

Fun thing, the updated Nissan app! It shows 3 and 6kW.
https://imgur.com/h7eWeuY
 
Does anyone know if the 2013 charger like 292C0-3NF3B would work on a 2015 model? It seems from the list on p2 that if the 2015 version is a compatible replacement for the earlier versions, it seems like it should work. Unless there's some difference in the wiring/battery that would prevent the 2013 chargers working without a firmware update?

Thoughts would be appreciated.
 
Well, the real question would be what is your current charger part number? With that you will already know if it will be compatible or just might be!
 
gugusse said:
Well, the real question would be what is your current charger part number? With that you will already know if it will be compatible or just might be!

Current charger is the base model 292C0-3NF0D (3kW without QC) on a 2015 Leaf made in 05/2014. and the question is could that be replaced with a 292C0-3NF3B which is 4/2012 to 6/2013. I agree that the only difference in the versions seems to be firmware. My only concern is that there is a difference in the charging profile for the 2015 (lizard) battery, which only the 292C0-3NF3D and other 5/2014 and later firmwares would have, but perhaps that is the responsibility of the battery monitoring module, and the PDM is purely about producing a 360V charging supply to it?

I could see issues with trying to get a dealer to upgrade firmware for a 2013 charger that arrived in a 2015 Leaf :)

I could imagine also this would invalidate the battery or 100k powertrain warranty also.

I would hope as mentioned previously I could get one with QC and just not use the QC connections, but have the option should I be able to acquire the CHAdeMo socket and cables at some point. I can't see that the PDM would be able to tell any difference between QC socket hardware missing and QC with no supply connected - SuperLeaf seemed to confirm this. The Nissan service manual procedure for changing the PDM includes air pressure testing after the cover is bolted back on with the liquid gasket, so I think the QC connection hole would need to be well sealed somehow.
 
The 292C0-3NF0D seems to be the last version before they changed something, so I don't see why it will not be compatible. So you can pick any version older than the 292C0-3NF3E and it will work.
You can clearly put a 6.6kW charger with chademo and not use it, BUT the hole must be closed.

Actually I suppose even the younger version would work, but I won't bet on that.

If you even have the chademo plug, the only thing is to find the wiring (if the car doesn't have the needed plug).

If you don't want error codes or anything, think about respecting the delay before unplugging the 12V battery, and to what I remember there is a 10min discharge delay for the PDM
 
I know this thread is dead but I wanted to post an update just in case someone else comes across this.

Yes, it is possible to install a QC port on your Nissan Leaf if it did not originally come with it. I just finished my conversion today and charged at a CVS using the DC QC charger. It charged just fine no issues.

To do this mod you'll need at least these two manuals:

EVC - EV CONTROL SYSTEM
VC - VEHICLE CHARGING SYSTEM

If you look hard you can probably find these online for free. I know the Nico club had them but they no longer allow you to download.

You'll also need to be handy with a soldering iron and be able to read schematics...

What I did:
I got a used 6.6KW charger and used QC port. The prices for the two wire harnesses were a bit more then I wanted to pay so I wired it external to the harness. I got some connectors, 9 conductor wire, a relay and fuse. I opened the OBC (PDM) and connected the QC port with the 9 conductor wire. There is a vent hole near the rear bottom rear of the the charger. I removed the filter and fit the wire in snugly. The filter was then relocated to the back of the cover. I had to drill a new hole. PDM Pin 9 also needs to be run into the 9 conductor wire so it can be connected to the relay.

Since the wire harness does not include pin 8 for the VCM I had to carefully open it and solder a wire to the pin 8 on the VCM. There is a plugged hold in the fire wall conveniently located near the VCM to run the wire from pin 8 under the hood to the relay. The VCM is located behind the glove box. Pin 5 of the VCM is routed to fuse box IPDM Pin 55 (light grey wire). The last wire (12v) is in another fuse box. I don't have it's ID right now but it's next to the battery. This fuse box will have fuse #33 missing. One connection was there waiting for the fuse. One connection was missing. The missing connection is here the last wire was installed with the fuse.

I hope this helps. I typed this fast and from memory so it may not be clear but I hope it is clear enough you give someone the clues they need to do this themselves. I think I'm the first person to pull this off as I have not found anyone else on the internet that has gotten a QC port working. I tucked everything nicely using zip-ties and if you didn't know you would assume the car was stock.
 
In 2011 and 2012 cars the charger was in the trunk. In 2013 plus they moved the charger to under the hood. That left a hole so the trunk liner no longer fit.
 
Thanks for that input. It is really interesting and comfort me thinking that every part in the Leaf is compatible.

Even the guy whom put a 30kWh battery in a 24kWh model had to swap the 2 on-board computers but the rest still worked fine.
 
Question:
Do you think would be possible to swap the chargers between a December 2014 and January 2017 car? The new one is a 3.3 and the old one is 6.6.... :?:
 
Does anybody know if it's possible to install 6.6kw charger from 2013+ to 2012SL? It has QC, but L1/L2 only takes 1.5kw/3.7kw, and charging station is paid by time, not kwh.
 
Andrey said:
Does anybody know if it's possible to install 6.6kw charger from 2013+ to 2012SL? It has QC, but L1/L2 only takes 1.5kw/3.7kw, and charging station is paid by time, not kwh.

That would be virtually impossible, as the charger is located in the rear of the car on the 2012, and in the front on the 2013. There was an aftermarket unit by Brusa that might possibly work, if you could find one.
 
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