EVSE options for 2013+ Leafs

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
JJeff,

Believe me, I looked at the "Dryer Buddy" and talked to the vendor/creator... my problem was that the dryer buddy requires you to use one of the other... you are using your dryer OR charging your LEAF. I found one with a switch, but if my kids or wife forgets to set the switch back after doing laundry, it means my LEAF won't we charged. When I talked to the guys making those Dryer Buddies, it was going to be about $200 more to include and automatic switch.

I am not saying this is the best, or that your setup is not as good as this, I just didn't find any other product that does what I need and under $1K.

Thanks.
 
Interesting, I didn't realize one was manual and the other automatic. I agree, forgetting to flip the switch back to EVSE would be a BIG deal in the morning if your car wasn't charged up to go to work :( also since we tend to turn the dryer on before going to bed, who'd want to get up in the middle of the night and switch it to car.....so I take it when the dryer is ON it interrupts the power to the EVSE? I'd think thats what you'd want, I mean a dryer is rather short term use and the EVSE could just charge after the dryer was done.
If you have the Ober EVSE do you know it's max charge amps? Is it the full 27.5a a upgraded Leaf can charge at or is it indeed 24a?

Update: Looking at Brads description for his Dryer Buddy it says: "All the Dryer Buddy's are available in a Plus version. The Plus version is a 2-way switcher that adds a high current relay and power supply inside to power only one outlet at a time. Any Dryer Buddy can be upgraded to a Plus version."
So does that mean it's automated, IOW not requiring one to flip a manual switch?
Also in another area he talks about his Dryer Buddy being able to give power to a EVSE while the dryer is in "air mode" only, IOW the heat coil is not on. I wonder how that works, how does the EVSE know the dryer is in tumble mode only as apposed to the heat coil being kicked in......wish I knew more about the Dryer Buddy and how it worked, looking at his photos I don't see any with a manual switch though.......maybe I'm just missing it :)
 
As far as I know, the product is not UL listed, but when I looked at the internal components (including the GFCI switch) they are.

Öbercharger allows the EV to draw up to 30Amps.
I think as of today only Tesla can handle that and more.
A typical dryer has a 40A breaker, so 32A is the most that can be safely drawn.
 
jcmachado said:
As far as I know, the product is not UL listed, but when I looked at the internal components (including the GFCI switch) they are.

Öbercharger allows the EV to draw up to 30Amps.
I think as of today only Tesla can handle that and more.
A typical dryer has a 40A breaker, so 32A is the most that can be safely drawn.
I'm not a stickler for UL listing, I've seen UL listed devices burn up and many non-UL listed devices work fine for many years, how well it's built is the most important :)
Nice it can max out a full amperage Leaf(27.5a) assuming your breaker/wiring is indeed rated for 40a.
 
I agree with you.

The company making these Ober devices is doing a great job! Quality products!

I think it is an European company with an US office in Portland.
 
I have a new to me 2013 Leaf SL. I have been using the Level 1 EVSE until Friday, 4/14/2017. I installed the Juice Box Pro 40. I had driven 53 miles/85km when I got home. Plugged in the car to the Level 2 EVSE and it took 1:19 hr:mm to charge the Leaf to 80% SOC. WOW :) fast and I like!
 
jcmachado said:
A typical dryer has a 40A breaker, so 32A is the most that can be safely drawn.

A typical dryer has a 30 AMP CIRCUIT BREAKER, so 24 amps (80%) is the maximum continuous load allowed per NEC.

The two wall outlets are:

pre-1996 - NEMA 10-30
post 1996 - NEMA 14-30

Both are rated for 30 amps.

If you plugged in ANY Tesla car with a conventional charging station rated for up to 80 amps, the minimum load from a Tesla is 40 amps continuous. Some have higher power:

40 amps - Model S, 2012-2015
48 amps - Model S and X, 2016 and newer
70 amps - Roadster
72 amps - Model S and X, optional with 48 amp charger
80 amps - Model S and X, optional with 40 amp single charger
 
To me an OpenEVSE set for 24A on a dryer circuit makes sense. Overnight it should top off most cars, It is likely the extended range Tesla's will not need a full charge.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Does the Chargepoint unit let you stop charging remotely? Now that would be a real help. Here's a link to a current price:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0124KMODY/?tag=myelecarfor-20&th=1


It allows remote start and stop charging. Also you can set up time of use through your power company. Access the unit via chargepoint website or app. Very simple. Glad I made the purchase
 
annabel398 said:
Twenty-two pages of posts and only one mention of the Chargepoint EVSE, so I'm chiming in:


...

I know a lot of members here are avid do-it-yourselfers, but I really liked the ease of opening the box, screwing the plate to the wall, snapping in the wires, and plugging it in. It's worth noting that this unit is UL-listed, as one of the requirements for the 50% rebate from the city was UL approval.


61wirq9EKYL._SL1500_.jpg


I'm with you, bought the 32A Plug-In version on Amazon within the 18' cord and love it. Didn't want an experimental box. I use the car's charge timer because of my work schedule but this was a great buy, even if they are a bit more expensive than some others.
 
Total noob question: I am on the verge of buying a Leaf, and have not researched the EVSE options. :eek: While at the dealer, it did not occur to me to ask if the car had any EVSE equipment that came with it. Emailed them last night, but until they reply I'll assume not. We have access to a couple of L2 charging spots at work that can serve as a stop-gap. They are posted with a two-hour time limit. I've only seen both occupied at once on one occasion the last few times I checked, so access seems semi-reliable.

Our needs are modest. Plan is to drive 15-25 miles per day on 30-35 mph streets, so we'll probably average about 5 kWh per day. Our detached garage has a circuit with a 20A breaker that supplies a couple of outlets that are rarely used, and then only during the day to power a hand tool or a tool battery charger. Significant upgrades to the garage's electrical panel would not be convenient or cheap!

At first glance, it seems like we can survive indefinitely with something like a Clipper Creek 12A EVSE that plugs into a standard outlet. Not a very exciting solution, but it should work.

Anyone have any alternate suggestions or caveats? Or am I doing it (more-or-less) right?
 
All Leafs come with a OEM 12a 120v EVSE, works very well on a 15a or more circuit. Best not to use an extension cord but if you must a 12 or even 10 gauge would be best.
You can have the factory EVSE professionally upgraded to 240v for ~$300 by EVSEupgrade.com
 
Should have specified: I'm buying used, so the first question is whether the original equipment is still with the car.

edit: Dealer says the 110V OEM is with it, so that should get me started. Probably oughta get a new one for home eventually and keep OEM in the car for emergencies.
 
BuckMkII said:
Should have specified: I'm buying used, so the first question is whether the original equipment is still with the car.

edit: Dealer says the 110V OEM is with it, so that should get me started. Probably oughta get a new one for home eventually and keep OEM in the car for emergencies.
While it's possible a used Leaf might not come with a EVSE, it's kind of useless to many without one :)
I agree with keeping one at home and another in the car, having to unwind and wind up a EVSE every day gets to be rather a pain. If you only have access to 120v(but a 20a circuit) at home I might suggest one of the cheap(<$300) 16a L1/L2's. Amazon sells them as well as 2 members here on MHL, Tony Williams and Vegas Brad. With an outlet adapter(~$20 purchased from either members or built yourself) you can use it on 120v and give yourself ~33% faster(even on 120v) charging that the OEM EVSE. If you ever get 240v the same EVSE will give you about 166% faster charging(2.66x faster than the OEM). The thing about the Clipper Creek EVSE you mentioned is it's ONLY 120v and only 12a. I guess if thats all you think you'll ever want it would be OK but IMO as long as you have access to a 20a circuit, why not take advantage of it and also have the ability to charge at 240v if you ever have access to it.
 
@BuckMkII, too bad you have only a single 20A circuit to the detached garage. With a 240V@30A circuit, you could have installed a dryer outlet and then use a Zencar 32A EVSE, set to 24A output, for 5.8 kW charging. That's what I do.

This EVSE is cheap and would work on your 110V@20A circuit:

http://www.e-zencar.net/charging-mode-2-16a/

There are other options on EBay and Amazon too. Search for 16A EVSE...
 
JJeff,

I just purchased a 13SL and it is being shipped to me shortly. The car only comes with the standard 120v trickle charger. I saw your post about the Zencar 30a portable EVSE. This looks very appealing for carrying with me in the car in case I needed to charge on the road. Can you tell me if that EVSE will step down and can be used as a trickle charger 120v as well? Does it come with adapters so that you can plug it into different types of plugs?

The plan is to get a home charger setup as soon as that is reasonable to do. But in the mean time I am trying to find the best portable option that I can carry with me and use while I am at home. Presently I will only have a 20amp 120v outlet to charge with so I will be trickle charging at home for a bit until the logistics of a home charger are doable.

So I am looking for feedback on the best portable EVSE options. Also I am going to have an electrician out to do the wiring for me and looking at the type of plug I should be having him install. It looks like that will depend on the home charger I select. I was thinking I would go with the Nema 14-50 as I have been looking at the Juicebox Pro, but would like some input from you guys on that as well. So I am looking for an upgraded portable EVSE so that I could stop and use campground power or other alternatives since finding places to charge can be a challenge when out on the road. And I am looking for feedback on a home EVSE.

On the home EVSE I like the idea of being able to turn on, turn off, monitor, schedule, and program the EVSE via my computer and have a way to track power use and car status. So I have been looking at the Juicebox Pro 40a to give me some of that ability and sort of future proof for larger power demands later. I have also been looking at the Chargepoint, but noted that the cost was higher and was limited to 32amp.

So I would love everyones feedback on these two options. When it comes to electricity I don't know much so please be gentle! LOL
 
If you have a 20 amp 120V circuit, you can repurpose for an EVSE that charges at 16amps. It's a little faster than the 12amp OEM cord, however a much more elegant solution. Such as the ACS-20. Or if you can repurpose the 20 amp breaker and upgrade it to 25, you can charge at 20 amps with the ACS-25.

https://store.clippercreek.com/level1
 
Phatcat73 said:
If you have a 20 amp 120V circuit, you can repurpose for an EVSE that charges at 16amps. It's a little faster than the 12amp OEM cord, however a much more elegant solution. Such as the ACS-20. Or if you can repurpose the 20 amp breaker and upgrade it to 25, you can charge at 20 amps with the ACS-25.

https://store.clippercreek.com/level1

Just curious why would you choose a Level 1 EVSE when you can get a Level 2 with Level 1 EVSE abilities so that you have more charging options when on the road? My objective is to get as many charging options as possible on the road in the EV desert landscape we live in today so I was thinking the portable EVSE should be geared to handle both Level 1 and 2 charging if the option presents itself. Thoughts?
 
alozzy said:
@BuckMkII, too bad you have only a single 20A circuit to the detached garage. With a 240V@30A circuit, you could have installed a dryer outlet and then use a Zencar 32A EVSE, set to 24A output, for 5.8 kW charging. That's what I do.

This EVSE is cheap and would work on your 110V@20A circuit:

http://www.e-zencar.net/charging-mode-2-16a/

There are other options on EBay and Amazon too. Search for 16A EVSE...

alozzy, Did you buy directly from Zencar's site? What kinds of adapters/plugs does the Zencar ship with? Your signature mentions it is both L1/L2? That sounds exactly like what I am looking for in a portable EVSE. What type of plug does the Zencar ship with? The one in the picture on the web site does not look familiar. Thanks.
 
Yes both Alozzy and I ordered directly from China, from the manufacturer. I believe he went with the 14-50 plug while I chose the L6-30 for portability. The EVSE doesn't come with any outlet adapters nor does the seller sell any. I and I believe Alozzy made our outlet adapters. Other than portability the reason I chose the L6-30 standard is female plugs are cheaper and easier to fine. I've made many different outlet adapters, anything from a standard 120v household outlet(NEMA 5-15) to TT30(120v RV outlet) to several of the different "L" or locking outlets to 6-15(240v AC outlet) to 6-30 to 10-30 and 10-50.
To make the outlet adapters I simply need a L6-30r(female plug) to plug into my EVSE's L6-30p(male plug) along with a 6" or so piece of 10-3 wire and finally the male plug I want to plug into. Unfortunately there are lots of different kinds of 120v and 240v plugs but I picked the most common ones I've run into. To build a converter plug it costs roughly $10 for the L6-30r, the wire is ~$1 and various plugs are anywhere from a couple of dollars to maybe max $15, they take about 15 min to 1/2hr to make. You can purchase premade(or ones someone has made) converter plugs but they tend to be ~$50 each. Note when purchasing a premade 120v to 240v converter plug it needs to be wired for EVSE use, a RV adapter plug will NOT work as they are wired differently. It won't blow anything up, it just won't work.
The Juicebox is nice and lets you set any current you want(I have an older one) the Zencar EVSE only lets you chose 3 or 4 preset currents. Personally I think the best choice is 13a(for 15a outlets) 20a(for short term 20a outlet use) 24a(for 30a outlet use) and finally 30a(for short term 30a outlet use or long term use on a 40a or greater outlet). Note our Leafs max out at 27.5a so even using the 30a setting the EVSE will only output 27.5a max(still a bit high for long term 30a outlet use). Of course you can choose any 4 amperages you want, I believe all are even except the 13a setting.
Here's a link to a nice sketch of the various NEMA outlets(about 1 page down on the right side)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEMA_connector
And heres a link to a similar EVSE from Amazon, about $100 more but goes up to 40a(if you had a EV that would go that high, our Leafs max out at 27.5a).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071GM7GQZ/_encoding=UTF8?coliid=I37K4LVLT4Q4VO&colid=2FOFVDA67L13W
My Zencar EVSE is the only one I use in my Leaf, with it I can plug into just about any outlet I run across and am able to charge at the highest current possible. I use my Juicebox at home, it needs WiFi and an internet connection to be able to adjust the output amperage, something you may not always have access to out and about.
 
Back
Top