I use a clamp on Fluke ammeter which I figure is pretty much spot on. All my adjustable EVSEs draw an actual 1a less than they say so maybe it's my vehicle? In the case of the Zencar EVSE for example it shows it's set for 20a but the actual draw is a tad under 19a, same thing with my EVSEupgrade EVSE, when it blinks 20 times(meaning it's set for 20a) the actual draw is more like 19a. Again I think it's more of a safety thing than anything else, you wouldn't want it the other way around, that is drawing more than set for.GlennD said:You can verify the settings using Nick Sayer's Simulator II. It reads the pilot and reports the current, frequency, and duty cycle. I verified the default 8A and the optional 12A on my Mercedes B EV Lear L1 EVSE. It was spot on. OpenEVSE's are correct in current but the frequency is 998 HZ instead of 1000HZ. It falls within tolerance though.
Webeleafowners, no you can go up to at least 27.5a @ 120v with a 6.6kw Leaf charger, 12a is the max for the 3.6kw charger and my Juicebox has no problem outputting the full 27.5a @ 120v on my '13 Leaf with the 6.6kw charger package.