Heater OFF switch on 1. gen. "plug &play" solution!

Stanton said:

TorC said:

I have however had some progress on making a better switch for the heater-harness. And it even has its own circut for backlight. As of now I just need to get the provider to make covers with "ON/OFF" or "Heater". And the switch looks very OEM. It will look very simular to the VSP-switch.

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That would be very cool if it fits into the "heated seats" space/hole/blank. Hope you can offer as a stand-alone item (although the shipping could cost > the switch)!

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There is also a blank on the left side where the VSP switch is that could be used. I'd definitely like that option as right now I don't have it permanently mounted. Hopefully that comes together before our winter starts, put me down for two

Now that Tor has me helping ship his US orders (Once a new batch arrives to me in the next few weeks)USPS First Class is pretty cheap

QueenBee said:

Stanton said:

TorC said:

I have however had some progress on making a better switch for the heater-harness. And it even has its own circut for backlight. As of now I just need to get the provider to make covers with "ON/OFF" or "Heater". And the switch looks very OEM. It will look very simular to the VSP-switch.

Click to expand...

That would be very cool if it fits into the "heated seats" space/hole/blank. Hope you can offer as a stand-alone item (although the shipping could cost > the switch)!

Click to expand...

There is also a blank on the left side where the VSP switch is that could be used. I'd definitely like that option as right now I don't have it permanently mounted. Hopefully that comes together before our winter starts, put me down for two

Now that Tor has me helping ship his US orders (Once a new batch arrives to me in the next few weeks)USPS First Class is pretty cheap

Click to expand...

The problem with "VSP switch" position is distance and route: you can reach the "heated seats" switch area by simply dropping the wire through the gap in the center console

TorC said:

sparrow79 said:

@TorC

I've ordered one from your website and I've just sent you a PM.

I'm from Portugal.

Thank you for developing this!

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I have recived your order, and is processing the order. It will be sent to Portugal.

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Order received. Thank you.

I'm still waiting for my used Nissan Leaf MK1 to arrive from France.

When it arrives I will mount it imediatly!

Thank you to Tor and QueenBee, I received the harness yesterday. I appreciate the effort that went into it and look forward to installing on the car!

Stanton said:

QueenBee said:

Stanton said:

That would be very cool if it fits into the "heated seats" space/hole/blank. Hope you can offer as a stand-alone item (although the shipping could cost > the switch)!

Click to expand...

There is also a blank on the left side where the VSP switch is that could be used. I'd definitely like that option as right now I don't have it permanently mounted. Hopefully that comes together before our winter starts, put me down for two

Now that Tor has me helping ship his US orders (Once a new batch arrives to me in the next few weeks)USPS First Class is pretty cheap

Click to expand...

The problem with "VSP switch" position is distance and route: you can reach the "heated seats" switch area by simply dropping the wire through the gap in the center console

Click to expand...

Your objections are partly true. The distance is not a problem since the harness was designed specifically to be installed next to the VSP-switch (that is why the cables to the switch are so long). To install it however is quite a bit of work. Is is not difficult, but it takes a lot more time and some owners may be unfamiliar with handling interior panels.

I have installed a few of these here in Norway, but since I do not charge for installation nobody wants it next to the VSP. I might have to convince someone to have it installed next to the VSP just to be able to film it.... but that might take some time.

Dear fellow LEAF owners,
I have been working very hard to get a "plug and play" solution to turn the heater off, and still be able to use Carwings or heater timer, without having to turn the switch to "0" when leaving the vehicle. And possible some nice lights in the switch.

I have found the solution! However it will be way to pricey. With "start-up" fees, shipping, taxes etc etc, I will have to charge about $ 100 to brake even. That in it self is not a problem, but the minimum number per series is 200 items. And I do not have $ 20 000 to use on this in the hope that I might be able to sell them all.

So if you want the kit, you either have to gather together and raise some $ 20 000 in guarentees, OR make it yourself. It is farily simple, and will look very nice on any 1. gen leaf!

What you need is a set of my harness to start off with. In addition to that get hold of a nice "fake" Nissan switch (I bought a nice one on Aliexpress "Special Dedicated Car Fog Light Switch Daytime Running Lights Switch Use for NISSAN,qashqai,juke,tiida,almera,x-trail") for about $ 6. They look very OEM when installed, and will have both "backlight", and an additional light when enganged. Get a standard automotive relay (or any type of relay). And a few pieces of cable and spade connectors.

The black cable from the switch as well as pin 85 on the realy connects to the 12v outlets negative cable.

The switchs yellow and red cable connects to the 12v outlets positive cable.

The switchs green cable connects to the relays pin 86.

The relays pin 87 connects to the "climate control harness" brown cable.

The relays pin 30 connects to the "climate control harness" red cable.

With this cheap and simple solution the switch will be looking like OEM (except that it says "LED OFF" instead of "HEAT OFF"). There will be a little light on only when the car is ON, and another little light will be on when the heat is turned OFF. And of course this will only be active as long as the car is turned ON. When the car is OFF, the relay will not be active, so climate timer and remote timer will work as the switch was never installed.

If you make this yourself it will be litturally less than $ 10 (pluss the harness).

I will be uploading 2 videoes on youtube on how to make this. Part one is just how to replace the round switch with a better looking one, and getting some lights. Part two is how to make the kit that I have described here.

Thank you so much for sharing this with the community! I look forward to seeing the video.

Just want to say thank you for my harness, fitted in 5 minutes on my 2013 leaf , checked the power consumption screen and it works a treat

bluepassion said:

Just want to say thank you for my harness, fitted in 5 minutes on my 2013 leaf , checked the power consumption screen and it works a treat

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:? the 13's already have a switch to turn the heater off......what did you gain by installing this switch?
I can see it on vehicles like my '12 that had no way to turn the heat off but my '13(and I believe on) Leafs have a factory switch.

Its a gen 1 early 2013

bluepassion said:

Its a gen 1 early 2013

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:?:
Made in Japan original design and VIN?
Then it is a 2012 model year per USA designation.

If is made in USA design and 2013 model year very strange to not have the heater off switch. :?

I see that the user bluepassion is located in the UK. In Europe the gen 1-Leafs carried on into MY2013. In fact, deliveries of gen 2 in Europe didn't start before June 2013. Early 2013 Leafs are therefor more than likely gen 1.

I'm glad that's sorted lol

I had an issue with my A/C compressor not wanting to turn on yesterday. I also noticed that I could not get the heater to turn on either. I checked fuses and they looked good. I use 'Leaf spy pro' to look at the DTC codes. I saw a few codes that I had the last time I had a 12v battery issue. I put the 12v battery on a charger and then cleared the DTCs. The codes all went away except the HVAC error. I tested the heater/ AC and again they would not trigger.

here is the DTC reading results.


I looked around the engine compartment hoping to see some issue that I could understand. No evidence of leaking hoses on the AC and no obvious loose cables. I usually maintain my own cars and only take to a mechanic when fancy tools are needed or a smarter set of eyes would see the issue. This one was becoming the latter.

As I started the mental process to be prepared to 'take it in' I thought I'd better unplug the heater switch incase they see it and get all confused about it. I did this and then cleared the DTC's again. This time they all cleared.. like so.



Now my A/C is working... yay. I wonder if some sequence of events occurred that nixed a DTC code that involved the Heater switch?

It was too dark for me to tackle putting the cable back in tonight, but I'll report back if the error returns after I do that. Just thought I'd share incase some of your ever have the same issue and have this mod.

Thanks for posting your problem.

If you had reset the car (by unplugging the 12v system) you would have had the same result.

The DTC error you have encountered is most lightly not related to the harness since it does nothing to the AC system. The AC system is on 400v, and the harness extending cables on the 12v system.

With the change in the weather, finally able to fully test TorC's mod-- it's great. I never got around to a nice drill/mount on the dash. I threaded the toggle to the right side of the display where it just tucked away to the left of where the passenger's feet would be. I think I'll just leave it there.

TorC,
Have you posted the switch videos on YouTube?
Thanks,
Ed

Coronado54 said:

TorC,
Have you posted the switch videos on YouTube?
Thanks,
Ed

Click to expand...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM7DqJbAk_c

Just received mine - thanks Tor.

For installing the switch in the dash you need a 3/4" or 18mm. hole which is probably standard for automotive switches of the round kind.

I decided to put mine just above the 12V outlet pointing down toward the floor.
I imagine a right-angle drill would be helpful but I just used a regular corded drill and carefully positioned it to make a smaller pilot hole in the plastic.
After confirming that the small hole was in the right sort of place I enlarged it to about 3/8" with a fatter bit and then set to work with a round file to bring it up to 3/4".
You have to be careful with the file to not damage other plastic, foam wrap, wire bundles, etc. Scratched the cover cap for the power outlet a bit but that is not in direct view.
And that first contact with a drill bit is always difficult to avoid skidding. Can't really punch the plastic to create a biting point.
Not sure if you can buy a 'stubby drill bit' in a size as big as 3/4" so working with a round file may be unavoidable.
Unless of course you do some disassembly of dash panels which I didn't want to get into.

Where the two retaining spring clips for the switch sit in the hole might need to be a touch more than 3/4" - but work carefully and keep checking the hole for roundness as well as size. I used a 3/4" spade wood bit as a guide - handheld.

I positioned the switch so that I (OFF) was closest to the gear shifter puck and II (1/2 heat) was away toward the front of the car.
With that arrangement, when the power outlet cap is flipped up it touches the switch and puts it in the O neutral position (max. heat).
That's not a bad thing as long as you and passengers are in the know.

In hindsight, it might have been quicker/easier/better to install the switch in the driver or passenger kick panel.
OTOH I sort of like the concealed nature of where I put it.

Looking forward to no range loss now that air temp. is often down around 10C/ 50F.

And that first contact with a drill bit is always difficult to avoid skidding. Can't really punch the plastic to create a biting point.

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You could probably 'hot punch' it with a heated small punch tip. That should melt a depression or small hole in which to start the bit.