Heater OFF switch on 1. gen. "plug &play" solution!

Stanton said:

QueenBee said:

So when ever you want just the fan to run you'd press the button and then turn the fan on and continue holding the button until you turn the fan off?? That seems a bit extreme from a usability point of view just so you don't have to drill/use the included switch.

You don't need to do anything with the mode 2 lead if you don't wand to use that mode. Connecting the mode 2 wire to the center brown wire would cause you to always be in mode 2 unless mode 1 was on.

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Maybe I wasn't clear, but if it's a "locking" button (like the VSP) you wouldn't have to "hold it down" the whole time.
My intent would be for the default of normal operation (no change), and to "engage" for no heat.
My understanding is: if you short the "Mode 2" wore to the center brown wire, you effectively eliminate/defeat that mode; that would leave you with either "Mode 1" or "Mode 0" (no change). If my assumption is incorrect, then hopefully Tor will jump in and correct me.

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That would be case IF the VSP button was a "locking" button but it's not. It's just a button.

I'll let Tor correct you as well but think of what the switch included is doing. In off nothing is connected. In mode 1 the mode 1 wire is connected to the center brown wire. In mode 2 the center brown wire is connected to the mode 2 wire. If you hardwire the mode 2 wire to the brown center wire you always be in mode 2. If you leave the mode 2 wire disconnected then by switching mode 1 wire to the center brown wire you can switch between heat off or heat on full.

The heated seat install thread has a diagram of the switch but it basically has three modes. Off, in parrallel or in series controlling the back and bottom heating pads to create the low and high. One would need to verify but I believe the light is switched separately from the main power as part of being able to dim it with the dash lights.

Tor, just to be clear I wasn't critiqueimg your switch and design as its perfect in that it's so simple and thus you were able to have it made affordably. Thanks again!!!

TorC said:

Another option is to use a push and hold switch. This will hold the position even if the car is turned off. The problem with this is that it can only have to functions ON or OFF.

QeenBees argument about that "OFF" is not very intuitive is point that I have not thought of before, and is very valid. It is sort of a "double denial". Off means that the OFF function is ON.

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This is exactly what I'm after (bold added by me above). QueenBee is also right about my "counter intuitive" desire for "off" to mean the heat is "on" (works as originally intended).
I understand that you want a 3-function switch and I want 2-function operation, so I'm not looking for any special design work. Now that I know I had the Mode 1/2 function backwards (for 2-function operation), I'm open to suggestions for a good "on/off" switch to replace the existing switch (and I agree the Nissan OEM switch is way too expensive).

Isn't this car fun?!

QueenBee said:

If you leave the mode 2 wire disconnected then by switching mode 1 wire to the center brown wire you can switch between heat off or heat on full.

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I want to make sure I understand what you are saying: with the current switch/configuration, if I simply disconnect the Mode 2 wire, then the "II" position is effectively the same as the "0" position. That means I can switch between Mode 1/2 and all I will ever get is no heat or full heat (and never partial heat).
If correct, this may be good enough for me. Thanks for your help!

Stanton said:

QueenBee said:

If you leave the mode 2 wire disconnected then by switching mode 1 wire to the center brown wire you can switch between heat off or heat on full.

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I want to make sure I understand what you are saying: with the current switch/configuration, if I simply disconnect the Mode 2 wire, then the "II" position is effectively the same as the "0" position. That means I can switch between Mode 1/2 and all I will ever get is no heat or full heat (and never partial heat).
If correct, this may be good enough for me. Thanks for your help!

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Yep, exactly.

QueenBee said:

Stanton said:

QueenBee said:

If you leave the mode 2 wire disconnected then by switching mode 1 wire to the center brown wire you can switch between heat off or heat on full.

Click to expand...

I want to make sure I understand what you are saying: with the current switch/configuration, if I simply disconnect the Mode 2 wire, then the "II" position is effectively the same as the "0" position. That means I can switch between Mode 1/2 and all I will ever get is no heat or full heat (and never partial heat).
If correct, this may be good enough for me. Thanks for your help!

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Yep, exactly.

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Excellent! Then that leaves just one question (probably for Tor): will "pre-heating" still work when I have selected full heat in my 2-function switch mode?

Yep, essentially what is happening is when the switch is off the mod is doing nothing so heat works as normal. When in mode 1 a resistor is connected so that the car reads the heating "coolant" temperature as really hot so it stops heating it. Preheating in mode 1 would turn the car on abd the fans would run but the heater would not cool the loop so no heat would come out.

Mode 2 tells the car the coolant is a little bit warmer than it really is which should result in less heat being lost outside the car.

Stanton said:

QueenBee said:

Stanton said:

I want to make sure I understand what you are saying: with the current switch/configuration, if I simply disconnect the Mode 2 wire, then the "II" position is effectively the same as the "0" position. That means I can switch between Mode 1/2 and all I will ever get is no heat or full heat (and never partial heat).
If correct, this may be good enough for me. Thanks for your help!

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Yep, exactly.

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Excellent! Then that leaves just one question (probably for Tor): will "pre-heating" still work when I have selected full heat in my 2-function switch mode?

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Yes. But if you leave your car in "heat OFF" your preheating will not work. It will blow air in, but no heat.

TorC said:

Stanton said:

QueenBee said:

Yep, exactly.

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Excellent! Then that leaves just one question (probably for Tor): will "pre-heating" still work when I have selected full heat in my 2-function switch mode?

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Yes. But if you leave your car in "heat OFF" your preheating will not work. It will blow air in, but no heat.

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Understood. If I eventually find an "on/off" switch, I think I will disconnect the Mode 2 wire (as mentioned previously). That will ensure I can pre-heat in "full heat" (Mode 0) and still switch to "no heat" (Mode 1).

I found a simple "on/off" switch at AutoZone (with no LED as Tor required) and was able to replace the existing switch so now I only have:
1) Full heat (plus pre-heat)
2) No heat

However, the colors/wires that I had to connect to make it work were completely backwards from what's been said. I had to:
1) Dis-connect the Mode 1 (blue) wire completely
2) Connect the Mode 2 (red) and center (brown) wires across the 2-pole switch to achieve this

I had to Ohm-out the existing 3-pole switch (after dis-connecting all the wires) to discover that it's actually the red wire (not blue) that gets "shorted" to dis-able heat. The only other minor issue was the male connector on the new switch was slightly wider than the existing one, so I had to spread/widen the female connector to get it over; then I covered it with the plastic/rubber gasket (so nothing would short together) and it tightened right up. I (temporarily) put a picture of it at the bottom of my Leaf page http://www.stantonzeff.com/my-nissan-leaf.html

I ordered this on Dec. 28 and it arrived today (Vancouver, Canada). That's pretty fast shipping. I installed it in my 2012 SL in under 10 minutes (including watching the YouTube video) and then spent another 10 minutes creating and taping instructions I made below the switch since this car is driven by my kids mainly and sometimes my wife (it's a great car, I just prefer my Tesla):

O = Middle Position is Normal (Full Heat)
I = Heat Off (use to defrost when no heat is required at all)
II = Some Heat (use to defrost when a little heat is needed)

I tested it and it works perfect! I am very pleased, especially since it is really needed in the wet, damp and moist west coast where defrost is a must a lot of the time. Great product and great vendor. Highly recommended. I have temporarily installed the switch in the gap under the cigarette plug. I didn't want to drill the hole until I knew it worked. Now I just need to know the exact drill bit size to permanently install it. If someone knows what size that drill bit is, please let me know. Thanks.

Canuck said:

I ordered this on Dec. 28 and it arrived today (Vancouver, Canada). That's pretty fast shipping. I installed it in my 2012 SL in under 10 minutes (including watching the YouTube video) and then spent another 10 minutes creating and taping instructions I made below the switch since this car is driven by my kids mainly and sometimes my wife (it's a great car, I just prefer my Tesla):

O = Middle Position is Normal (Full Heat)
I = Heat Off (use to defrost when no heat is required at all)
II = Some Heat (use to defrost when a little heat is needed)

I tested it and it works perfect! I am very pleased, especially since it is really needed in the wet, damp and moist west coast where defrost is a must a lot of the time. Great product and great vendor. Highly recommended. I have temporarily installed the switch in the gap under the cigarette plug. I didn't want to drill the hole until I knew it worked. Now I just need to know the exact drill bit size to permanently install it. If someone knows what size that drill bit is, please let me know. Thanks.

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Sorry for not following up. But @Stanton: Thanks for your input! And thanks for showing that the harness can be used to customized! Thanks!


@Canuck: Here are some pics on how to installl the switch (I am unable to upload, so this is a link to the Norwegian forum witch pics). http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,23401.msg444229.html#msg444229

I must say that this is a very nice solution. Credit to Johannes who sent me the photos.


(And even though you are satisfied with the shipping, it should have been faster... I was stuck in family parties, and so was most postmen... Normal shipping should have been less than 7 days ("my"record is 2 days to Texas). )

TorC said:

... @Canuck: Here are some pics on how to installl the switch (I am unable to upload, so this is a link to the Norwegian forum with pics). http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,23401.msg444229.html#msg444229

I must say that this is a very nice solution. Credit to Johannes who sent me the photos.
...

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How do you open or download the picture?
It has paperclip indicating attachment.
But selecting and opening image is just the paperclip image.
Is there a download button I am missing?
Or do you need to register with the site to download?

TorC said:

EDIT: December 2015: This cable harness is now available on http://betterev.tabetalt.no/
Shipping is still very expensive (but this is what the Norwegian Postal service charges me).

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1 unit + shipping converts to about $20 US.
2 units + shipping is about $30 US.

Exchange rates are changing to favor the US right now.

TimLee said:

TorC said:

... @Canuck: Here are some pics on how to installl the switch (I am unable to upload, so this is a link to the Norwegian forum with pics). http://elbilforum.no/forum/index.php/topic,23401.msg444229.html#msg444229

I must say that this is a very nice solution. Credit to Johannes who sent me the photos.
...

Click to expand...

How do you open or download the picture?
It has paperclip indicating attachment.
But selecting and opening image is just the paperclip image.
Is there a download button I am missing?
Or do you need to register with the site to download?

Click to expand...

The pictures should show in the thread. By clicking the name next to the paperclip (such as "sigmont1") should show allow download.

You may use http://betterev.tabetalt.no/Produkt/nissan-leaf-heater-controller-kit-v2#product
(the 7th and 8th picture) to see the same pix.

i got mine earlier this week. Installed it yesterday. My range has already increased, i have clear windows and it helped to keep the car warmer too thanks to the middle setting.

Super job Mr Norway!

TorC said:

You may use http://betterev.tabetalt.no/Produkt/nissan-leaf-heater-controller-kit-v2#product
(the 7th and 8th picture) to see the same pix.

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That's a perfect spot for it. Thanks. Does anyone know the exact drill bit size?

I installed mine today, not a perfect job but it gets the job done. I left it hanging out the front bottom center/rightish near the 12v port with a bit of thin foam wrapped around the wires to relieve some pressure from the faceplate.

56F in my garage so I fired up the leaf and set the temp to 60F and the switch to position II, no heat as far as leafspy and the leaf energy display. Tried turning the heat up to 90F, still no energy usage. Played around for a bit with different modes and eventually got heat. I'm not sure if there is a delay in the response of the control logic that turns on the PTC or if it just isn't cold enough for me to use position II.

Even if that doesn't help much I still have the middle position to get full heat.

I'll have to try a drive to work with it in position II to see how much if any heat comes on in colder temps and with what set point.

dhanson865 said:

I installed mine today, not a perfect job but it gets the job done. I left it hanging out the front bottom center/rightish near the 12v port with a bit of thin foam wrapped around the wires to relieve some pressure from the faceplate.

56F in my garage so I fired up the leaf and set the temp to 60F and the switch to position II, no heat as far as leafspy and the leaf energy display. Tried turning the heat up to 90F, still no energy usage. Played around for a bit with different modes and eventually got heat. I'm not sure if there is a delay in the response of the control logic that turns on the PTC or if it just isn't cold enough for me to use position II.

Even if that doesn't help much I still have the middle position to get full heat.

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My Leaf is not Garaged. so it's usually 25F outside in the night right now (February) In Position II I do get heat and it sometimes matched the level of the normal heat (in terms of energy being pulled). If I change the temp required down to about 68F, it will lower the power pulled down to about 1-1.5Kw once the car is nice. I do preheat the car in the mornings so I have to remember to put it back on to the middle setting before I leave the car plugged in each night. I learned that lesson on the first morning getting in and it feeling quite "brisk" inside.

Well, I actually used my "heater off" switch today when I had to defrost the windows, and it worked like a charm! I knew I was going to drive a lot today, and instead of returning home with 3 bars I probably would have only had 1 or 2 had it not been for the ability to keep the heat from kicking in when I used the defroster.

Stanton said:

Well, I actually used my "heater off" switch today when I had to defrost the windows, and it worked like a charm! I knew I was going to drive a lot today, and instead of returning home with 3 bars I probably would have only had 1 or 2 had it not been for the ability to keep the heat from kicking in when I used the defroster.

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+1

This is a great "range extender" mod for cold climate areas.