Heater OFF switch on 1. gen. "plug &play" solution!

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Hi, I got my kit this past week but haven't installed it yet. I'm hoping for a little guidance from those more familiar with Leaf mods:

1) Will it be easier to run the switch wire to (a) the cluster of buttons to the lower left of the steering wheel, or to (b) the location where the seat heater controls would be installed if I had them? Or is there somewhere else I should think about mounting the switch?

2) The switch looks like it is designed to pop into a hole of a specific diameter in a sheet material of a particular range of thicknesses. Any info on those specs? I guess I'll have to take the spade connectors off in order to install the switch.

Thanks,
Wayne
 
I would like to install mine in a seat heater blank, but haven't figured out how to pull off the center console yet.
 
Thank you all for positive feedback! It is great to know that you all are happy with the harness, and it does what it was supposed to do.

However I have been told that some thinks the mode2 function heats the water to much, others think it is to cold... I am working on a tiny "add on" to solve this. And for those a bit more handy; it is possible to install a potentimoter on the kit.

drees said:
Now to figure out how to pull off the center console, I would like to mount the switch in one of the blanks.

For LEAF owners without the CWP/ seat heater this is a very good placement of the switch. It is very simple to remove that cover. Just take a firm grip between the cupholders and give it a firm pull. (Beware that is will come loose very fast, so be carefull not to pull it from the cables). The whole plastic cover is mounted with simple spring latches. I will try to make a short movie on it soon. And a longer one showing the whole installation process.



Stanton said:
Like everyone else? Still haven't received mine... :cry:


If you still have not recieved your kit please send me an e-mail and can send you a new kit. (my e-mail should be in the e-mails you got when you made the order.)

Best regards,


Tor
 
wwhitney said:
Hi, I got my kit this past week but haven't installed it yet. I'm hoping for a little guidance from those more familiar with Leaf mods:

1) Will it be easier to run the switch wire to (a) the cluster of buttons to the lower left of the steering wheel, or to (b) the location where the seat heater controls would be installed if I had them? Or is there somewhere else I should think about mounting the switch?

2) The switch looks like it is designed to pop into a hole of a specific diameter in a sheet material of a particular range of thicknesses. Any info on those specs? I guess I'll have to take the spade connectors off in order to install the switch.

Thanks,
Wayne


The easiest solution is to install it in the "blanks" where the switches for seat heaters would have been. But should also be possible to install it in one of the blanks on the left side of the steering wheel. This however is a bit more work...

You should be able to drill a hole thru the on of the "blanks" and pop the switch in there.

When reconnecting the "spades" it does not really matter witch of the cables goes where, except for the brown one. The brown must ALWAYS be on the middle one.

This switch is not a special switch. It is just like any other 3 mode switch. So if you find a nicer switch you can use that. You can even use a simple ON/OFF switch, but then you will not be able to use both "modes".
If using other switches you must always use brown + one of the other cables (depending on what mode you want).


Best regards,


Tor
 
Just got around to ordering one. I guess since it's -6C (20F) here this past week I'll not be seeing it work for a while but come the spring it will be worth it.

Thanks for making this project a viable product for Leaf owners!!
 
Stanton said:
Thanks for posting ^ ^ ^
I may try mounting the switch there since I don't have heated seats.
+1, thanks Tor! I was afraid that pulling that hard meant I was doing it wrong. I've broken my share of body clips from using excessive force...
 
Thanks again for having this made! Works great and install is easy. Right now i just have it under the steering column gap as I don't need to change it very often but will eventually mount it properly.
 
TimLee said:
Is the switch a three position toggle?
Mode 1 press to the right, Mode 2 press to the left, and Off (no change to original operation) in the center?

Stupid question: which way is "up" (makes a difference which is right and which is left).
In other words: if the "I" is down, is that Mode 1; if the "II" is down, is that Mode 2??
Pretty obvious that the "O" is in the middle (off/no change).

I get my Leaf back this week (new battery pack) and I'm thinking about pulling the center panel and cup holders this weekend.
 
Stanton said:
TimLee said:
Is the switch a three position toggle?
Mode 1 press to the right, Mode 2 press to the left, and Off (no change to original operation) in the center?

Stupid question: which way is "up" (makes a difference which is right and which is left).
In other words: if the "I" is down, is that Mode 1; if the "II" is down, is that Mode 2??
Pretty obvious that the "O" is in the middle (off/no change).

I get my Leaf back this week (new battery pack) and I'm thinking about pulling the center panel and cup holders this weekend.


The switch is only a switch, so it does not matter witch way you install it. If you prefer having the "1" upwards it will not effect the function. The switch should be clearly labeled with "I" and "II". If you wish you can reverse the cables as long as the brown one is in the middle. You may even use a different switch. If you only want ON/OFF you can use any rocker switch as long it connects the brown cable to one of the others.

If anyone need any support, please do either post them here, or send me a PM. If you need "live" support, send me a PM (or e-mail) with your Skype address, and we can arrange it.
 
TorC said:
If you only want ON/OFF you can use any rocker switch as long it connects the brown cable to one of the others.

I think I might look for a 2-position switch and maybe even the same thing that is used for the heated seats. I'm going to see if the dealer has anything that will fit that spot in stock when I'm there. I really only need "no heat" (Mode 1) and "full heat" (Mode 0).
 
Just completed installation and I can't believe how easy it was: thanks Tor!
I was able to route the switch cable down through the opening between the center console and the cup holder console, remove the blank that covers the heated seats on/off (I don't have them), and pull the switch up through the opening; no holes to drill and no wires to cut. I'm still thinking about converting to a 2-pole (on/off) switch, or I might even look for an (used/junked) OEM Leaf switch made for that spot.
 
Stanton said:
TorC said:
If you only want ON/OFF you can use any rocker switch as long it connects the brown cable to one of the others.

I think I might look for a 2-position switch and maybe even the same thing that is used for the heated seats. I'm going to see if the dealer has anything that will fit that spot in stock when I'm there. I really only need "no heat" (Mode 1) and "full heat" (Mode 0).


If you only need ON/OFF you can use any ON/OFF switch. This one will fit: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/ON-OFF-SPST-3-Pin-Blue-Light-Rocker-switch-for-PATROL-GU-GQ-NISSAN-JEEP-ARB/32539367696.html
This will fit nicely into the excisting panels, but will not look very OEM....


BUT: It will not look OEM. And beware DO NOT CONNECT THE BULBS/LIGHTS! And before you use any "seat heater" switch, please make sure that there are no resistors in the switch.


I am in the process of trying to get a custom made switch that will be very simular to ethe OEM switches, but this will not be avaliable before Q2 at the earliest. The cost of production is very high when the production is only a hundred. The price would be very different if the order was on a 1000 units or more. At the moment I am still about $ 1 500 in the red (but do have the $1600 in value in stock), so I am not too keen on spending another $ 2K on swithces that may not sell for another 2-3 years ore more.


Stanton said:
Just completed installation and I can't believe how easy it was: thanks Tor!
I was able to route the switch cable down through the opening between the center console and the cup holder console, remove the blank that covers the heated seats on/off (I don't have them), and pull the switch up through the opening; no holes to drill and no wires to cut. I'm still thinking about converting to a 2-pole (on/off) switch, or I might even look for an (used/junked) OEM Leaf switch made for that spot.

Thanks for your feedback. I am happy that you could install it so easily.

And just a "top tip" for others that want to do the same: Use torch/flashlight when wiggeling the switch from the centre console to the lower center console. It is a bit "fiddely", but a torch will help you. And it is a bit more room on the right side in the console than on the left.


And once again:
If anyone need help: Please do not hesitate to send me a PM. If you have already ordered your harness you will find my private e-mail adress the order confirmation. It ends with netcom.no. I can even give you live support via Skype (but not on that e-mail. Just Pm me, or e-mail me, and we will arrange it).

I wish you all a very merry chistmast, and a happy new year! (We are already on the 26th in our time zone).


Cheers,


Tor
 
TorC said:
I am in the process of trying to get a custom made switch that will be very simular to the OEM switches, but this will not be avaliable before Q2 at the earliest. The cost of production is very high when the production is only a hundred. The price would be very different if the order was on a 1000 units or more. At the moment I am still about $ 1 500 in the red (but do have the $1600 in value in stock), so I am not too keen on spending another $ 2K on swithces that may not sell for another 2-3 years ore more.

I may checkout the switch you referenced, but I'm OK with the current configuration for now (I wrapped some electrical tape around the bottom of the plastic covers so they don't "fall down" and allow the connectors to short). BTW, I think the best (2-pole) switch for this would be the VSP switch (only present on 2011 Leafs) if they can be found; it's the same size as the "heater" switch and doesn't have any lights.

TorC said:
And just a "top tip" for others that want to do the same: Use torch/flashlight when wiggeling the switch from the centre console to the lower center console. It is a bit "fiddely", but a torch will help you. And it is a bit more room on the right side in the console than on the left.

This is very true (glad you mentioned it)! It helps to shine a (small) light up through the large connector in the cup holder area, and I would stay to the right side of that connector.
 
VSP on 2011 is a button and not a switch though right? As in if you aren't pushing it then it reverts to its previous position.
 
QueenBee said:
VSP on 2011 is a button and not a switch though right? As in if you aren't pushing it then it reverts to its previous position.

Yes, it is a button with an LED (but I guess you don't have to connect that lead) and my assumption of it's operation is:
--not depressed (default) could be "Mode 0"
--depressed (and I don't know how you know this without lighting the LED) could be "Mode 1"
I also assume I would have to tie together the center (brown) and "Mode 2" leads.
 
Stanton said:
QueenBee said:
VSP on 2011 is a button and not a switch though right? As in if you aren't pushing it then it reverts to its previous position.

Yes, it is a button with an LED (but I guess you don't have to connect that lead) and my assumption of it's operation is:
--not depressed (default) could be "Mode 0"
--depressed (and I don't know how you know this without lighting the LED) could be "Mode 1"
I also assume I would have to tie together the center (brown) and "Mode 2" leads.

So when ever you want just the fan to run you'd press the button and then turn the fan on and continue holding the button until you turn the fan off?? That seems a bit extreme from a usability point of view just so you don't have to drill/use the included switch.

You don't need to do anything with the mode 2 lead if you don't wand to use that mode. Connecting the mode 2 wire to the center brown wire would cause you to always be in mode 2 unless mode 1 was on.

Using the heated seat heater switch would look good but it would be a bit counter intuitive. Off would mean the heater override is off and heat is on while the switch being on would
mean the heater override feature is on and the heater is forced off.
 
QueenBee said:
So when ever you want just the fan to run you'd press the button and then turn the fan on and continue holding the button until you turn the fan off?? That seems a bit extreme from a usability point of view just so you don't have to drill/use the included switch.

You don't need to do anything with the mode 2 lead if you don't wand to use that mode. Connecting the mode 2 wire to the center brown wire would cause you to always be in mode 2 unless mode 1 was on.

Maybe I wasn't clear, but if it's a "locking" button (like the VSP) you wouldn't have to "hold it down" the whole time.
My intent would be for the default of normal operation (no change), and to "engage" for no heat.
My understanding is: if you short the "Mode 2" wore to the center brown wire, you effectively eliminate/defeat that mode; that would leave you with either "Mode 1" or "Mode 0" (no change). If my assumption is incorrect, then hopefully Tor will jump in and correct me.
 
Thank you both for contributing! You both have some very valid point. And very valuable inputs!

Assuming that Stanton does not suggest using an actual VSP switch (the internal wiring makes it impossible, and the price makes it a very expensive solution) but a switch with the same function. Either it can be pushed for turning the heater OFF, and it returns to normal (the heater works as normal) after switching off the car. This is possible to make. But very expensive. Another option is to use a push and hold switch. This will hold the position even if the car is turned off. The problem with this is that it can only have to functions ON or OFF.

QeenBees argument about that "OFF" is not very intuitive is point that I have not thought of before, and is very valid. It is sort of a "double denial". Off means that the OFF function is ON.

In an ideal world were I had the market strength to sell a couple of thousand kits a year I would most definitely combine these two ideas to a switch with the top position were "ON", Middle "ECO" and last "OFF". And this combined with indication lights AND a little relay for the "OFF" so that this function was not connected if the car is OFF. With that little relay the pre-heating will still work as normal without having to remember to switch it to ON or ECO.

I will have a talk with my contacts in China and see what they can come up with. But this is going to be extremely expensive in such low volume. Making new molds are expensive even in China.

I have not disassembled a seat heater switch yet, but I assume that "low" just adds a resistor of some kind. OR it probably just engages a relay that gives power to another circuit. IF it is the latter it should be fairly easy to rewire the switch, or use it just as a switch with no lights. Then it just a matter of sticking on some home made stickers, and using a NO (normally open) relay and getting power to the relay from the 12v outlet.
 
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