Carcharging/Blink Reduces resedential EVSE's to 24Amp.

My Nissan Leaf Forum

Help Support My Nissan Leaf Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
"All Blink Level II EV chargers that are now sold and/or deployed will include the new cord set and will provide the maximum unit amperage of 30 Amps. CarCharging also intends to replace the cord sets on all of the installed Blink Level II EV chargers in commercial locations and then restore the amperage to its maximum capacity (30 Amps)."

"All ... chargers that are now sold and/or deployed" sounds like they may get to us homeowners who along with the government paid for our Level 2 installations.
 
I think you are misreading the verb tense.
Seems to indicate units sold or deployed from this point forward.
Highly unlikely they do anything for home units.

The reprogram to lower amps requires the higher functions board.
But one of their software pushes corrupted the SD card so I disabled the higher level board.
Does the lower level EVSE board have a non-volatile lower amp limit that the higher level board set?
Or does the lower level board just default back to original 30 amp limit?
 
Did anybody ever get offered a replacement cord (for a price) for residential original Blink unit?

With higher board disabled, does it limit to 24 amps or 30 amps?
 
About a year and a half ago or so, shortly before Ecotality went out of business, I complained about the cord set and they came out and replaced it, along with doing some other maintenance such as recrimping the CT leads, etc... I doubt they do any of this now.

TimLee said:
Did anybody ever get offered a replacement cord (for a price) for residential original Blink unit?
 
TomT said:
About a year and a half ago or so, shortly before Ecotality went out of business, I complained about the cord set and they came out and replaced it, along with doing some other maintenance such as recrimping the CT leads, etc... I doubt they do any of this now.
TimLee said:
Did anybody ever get offered a replacement cord (for a price) for residential original Blink unit?
I tried hard to duplicate TomT's replacement cord, but all they would offer was $100 off the new Bosch EVSE that they sell. Bought a replacement and did it myself and I've been pretty happy with it. I then told Blink I had replaced it and they bumped my unit back to 30a. They did require me to sign a statement that I understood the risks. I could just as easily used the service code to bump it up myself. If/when the Blink fails, I'll just reuse the replacement cord in an OpenEVSE, so I didn't see it as a big investment in the Blink.
 
Does it actually say 24A on the settings screen when it's dialed back? Mine still says 30A, it's been offline for some time and I didn't renew the contract when I was offered to do it.
 
Valdemar said:
Does it actually say 24A on the settings screen when it's dialed back? Mine still says 30A, it's been offline for some time and I didn't renew the contract when I was offered to do it.
Yes, it does. If you weren't connected, there was no way for Blink to dial you back, although I would expect it to happen if you ever reconnected to the cloud.
 
davewill said:
Valdemar said:
Does it actually say 24A on the settings screen when it's dialed back? Mine still says 30A, it's been offline for some time and I didn't renew the contract when I was offered to do it.
Yes, it does. If you weren't connected, there was no way for Blink to dial you back, although I would expect it to happen if you ever reconnected to the cloud.

I might have reconnected for a short while while testing Wi-Fi at one point, but the connection was very flaky so it is possible it didn't stay connected long enough to get the command.
 
Greetings

I have two older Blink chargers. I have removed the crappy REMA plugs and installed Dostar and Yazaki. They work well.

I lobotomized both chargers for various reasons. I simply like the fact that they start up faster and I never use any features.

I bought a clamp on amp meter from Harbor Freight. It states that one Blink is charging at 24.0A and the other at 29.5A.

Any ideas on how to get the 24.0A boosted back up?

Thanks in advance
 
The firmware will need to be reset to 30 amps.

If you have functional software on the SD card try unlobotimizing and using the maintenance screen to reset to 30.
See:
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=13957&hilit=SD+CARD&start=10#p331249.

If SD card is corrupted you'll need to generate new SD card.
Info on that is later in the thread.

My SD card corrupted and I have been meaning to replace but haven't found the time or enthusiasm to bother.
But as you said a dumb Blink is probably a better Blink anyway.

But the only way I know to reset the firmware is with functional software and maintenance screen.
 
A giant thank you for providing these files.

The Blink EVSE is now back up to 30A.

Going from 24A to 30A may not seem like much, but it is noticeable and that's what counts.
 
rcedwards said:
A giant thank you for providing these files.

The Blink EVSE is now back up to 30A.

Going from 24A to 30A may not seem like much, but it is noticeable and that's what counts.


You notice a difference of 3.5A? In a two hour charge that is only about 1.4 kwh.
 
Yes, it is noticeable. Nothing dramatic, but enough for me to do the work necessary to get the other blink up to full capacity.

I realize I'm using a cheesy Harbor Freight clamp on meter, so hold any criticisms of the test equipment. I don't use them enough to warrant a Fluke.

That said, my readings were 24.0A on one and 29.5A on the other. I realize that it should read 27.5A. I will not investigate it further.

Anyhow, going from 24.0A to 29.5A (as the meter reads it) is quite noticeable. 29.5/24.0 = 1.23!
 
rcedwards said:
Yes, it is noticeable. Nothing dramatic, but enough for me to do the work necessary to get the other blink up to full capacity.

I realize I'm using a cheesy Harbor Freight clamp on meter, so hold any criticisms of the test equipment. I don't use them enough to warrant a Fluke.

That said, my readings were 24.0A on one and 29.5A on the other. I realize that it should read 27.5A. I will not investigate it further.

Anyhow, going from 24.0A to 29.5A (as the meter reads it) is quite noticeable. 29.5/24.0 = 1.23!

I believe 6.6kW is what's actually being sent to the battery, so 29.5A sounds about right considering losses. My 2011 consumes 3.75kW from the wall with its 3.3kW charger.
 
Valdemar said:
I believe 6.6kW is what's actually being sent to the battery, so 29.5A sounds about right considering losses. My 2011 consumes 3.75kW from the wall with its 3.3kW charger.
More like 6.0kW to the battery, 6.6kW from the wall to the OBC.
 
GRA said:
Valdemar said:
I believe 6.6kW is what's actually being sent to the battery, so 29.5A sounds about right considering losses. My 2011 consumes 3.75kW from the wall with its 3.3kW charger.
More like 6.0kW to the battery, 6.6kW from the wall to the OBC.

Ok, then why a 3.3kW charger draws 3.75kW from the wall? Following this logic it should draw 3.3.
 
Valdemar said:
GRA said:
Valdemar said:
I believe 6.6kW is what's actually being sent to the battery, so 29.5A sounds about right considering losses. My 2011 consumes 3.75kW from the wall with its 3.3kW charger.
More like 6.0kW to the battery, 6.6kW from the wall to the OBC.

Ok, then why a 3.3kW charger draws 3.75kW from the wall? Following this logic it should draw 3.3.
Because Nissan wanted to compete with the FFE, Fit EV and other BEVs that had true 6.6 kW (to the battery) chargers, they changed the way they described their OBCs, from max current out of the OBC to the battery, to max. current from the wall. The 3.3. kW OBC drew a max. of 3.84kW from the wall (240V x 16A), 3.3 kW to the battery. Nissan essentially pencil-whipped it, to disguise the fact that their OBC didn't have a true 6.6kW output. This was all discussed at length here at the time the 6.0kW (Nissan 6.6 kW) OBCs were introduced in the 2013 model year.
 
Thanks for the clarification, somehow I missed all those discussions, probably because had little interest in the 6.6 charger at the time.
 
Back
Top