HOW TO: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) installed for $35

Here's the DRL logic: When the lights are OFF either by selecting off, or when in AUTO and there is sufficient light to trip the off threshold, and the car is in READY mode, it will light and tilt UP the LED low beams (so that it's more visible to other drivers), and light the fog lights.

If any lighting control is turned on, such as parking lights, low beams, high beams, then the DRL function is cancelled and the level control returns to normal (as set) and the lights function as stock. This also applies to AUTO when dark.

So if you leave your mode in AUTO, then you get LED DRL's during the day (tilted higher than normally possible), and normal as stock lighting at night.

I have also replaced all the incandescent bulbs in the car with LED's, with the exception of the reverse lights, turn signals, and high beams.

-Phil

Boy has this thread jumped the shark! :lol:

I am interested in the op method. But, I hate those wire taps. Is there any way to connect to one of the terminals or add a circuit to one of the fuses inside the IPDM?

Ingineer said:

I have also replaced all the incandescent bulbs in the car with LED's, with the exception of the reverse lights, turn signals, and high beams.
-Phil

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Hey Phil, whose LEAF are you working on? :lol:

rawhog said:

I am interested in the op method. But, I hate those wire taps. Is there any way to connect to one of the terminals or add a circuit to one of the fuses inside the IPDM?

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I haven't checked that this is the right size for the Leaf or that there is space for this in the fuse box, but check out http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ

Oh, those look cool! I didn't even know those existed. Fuses are all pretty standard nowadays (unless they're mini fuses), so they should work. Looking at the wiring diagram, fuse 5 (ON power supply fuse) seems like a perfect candidate. If you try them, report back and let us know how it works. Connect the positive wires to this and the negative wires to any body ground. Since it looks like this also provides a fuse outlet for the new circuit, use the smallest fuse you can get - a 1A would more than cover it. You'll need to find a way to splice the two plugs into that single socket. Perhaps they make a y splitter? I'm assuming this thing would fit under the lid of the fuse block... You'd still need to find a suitable place to route the wires out. I'm rambling and thinking out loud. And I'm beginning to wonder if this is really any easier. But at least you could avoid the potentially finicky taps.

Be sure to look at the other options on Amazon as well as there are nearly half a dozen different types from different manufactures and all have advantages and disadvantages. I've used them on other cars in the past for lower power equipment and they work well if you don't want to slice a wire.

DoxyLover said:

rawhog said:

I am interested in the op method. But, I hate those wire taps. Is there any way to connect to one of the terminals or add a circuit to one of the fuses inside the IPDM?

Click to expand...

I haven't checked that this is the right size for the Leaf or that there is space for this in the fuse box, but check out http://www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-FHA200BP-ATO-Add-A-Circuit-Kit/dp/B0002BGELQ

Click to expand...

Yea, I already have the add a circuit. The problem I'm having is figuring out which circuit to use. There is a thread on here somewhere that showed that method. But, it tapped into a fuse in the cluster closest to the bulkhead. Did it that way. But, the DRL's come on when the charger turns on. Not what I want. So, my question is really, "What circuit can I use to put the add a circuit into that will not come on with the charger?"

rawhog said:

Yea, I already have the add a circuit. The problem I'm having is figuring out which circuit to use. There is a thread on here somewhere that showed that method. But, it tapped into a fuse in the cluster closest to the bulkhead. Did it that way. But, the DRL's come on when the charger turns on. Not what I want. So, my question is really, "What circuit can I use to put the add a circuit into that will not come on with the charger?"

Click to expand...

GeekEV said:

Looking at the wiring diagram, fuse 5 (ON power supply fuse) seems like a perfect candidate.

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:lol: :lol: :lol:

Oh, and I realized later that you'd have to splice some wire one way or another, since the snap in plugs that come with that kit are short and close to the lights themselves. The longer wires it comes with are bare ends. But at least you can make the splice at your leisure on a comfortable table, rather than directly into the car's wiring.

I already have the ground wires landed on the negative 12v battery terminal. And the + wires are sitting ready to pull into wherever. This fuse 5 you refer to. Is that in the IPDM?

rawhog said:

I already have the ground wires landed on the negative 12v battery terminal. And the + wires are sitting ready to pull into wherever. This fuse 5 you refer to. Is that in the IPDM?

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DO NOT connect any grounds directly to the 12v battery! This will bypass the battery current sensor and cause charging errors on the battery! Only connect to the ground PAST the current sensor!

-Phil

rawhog said:

I already have the ground wires landed on the negative 12v battery terminal. And the + wires are sitting ready to pull into wherever. This fuse 5 you refer to. Is that in the IPDM?

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Well, there's the rub. I didn't say because I don't know... It is in something called the Fuse Block Junction Box described on p81 of the PG section of the service manual. But I can't find the section that shows me where it is and a search under the hood has come up empty so far. :?

Anyone else know where that is?

OK Phil. Point taken. I was unaware of that little factoid. Where is this sensor located?

It's the square shaped device around the bus bar immediately off the negative battery terminal. That is actually a Hall Effect current sensor.

rawhog said:

OK Phil. Point taken. I was unaware of that little factoid. Where is this sensor located?

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Not sure if this should be a new topic or not (new to posting)...

I am one of the few (there's like 6 of us, right?) SV owners out there and want to add fog lights (preferably LED). I have covers where the fog lights would be, and no switch on the dashboard.

As a car hobbyist, I am quite capable of running wires, adding relays, etc. but have never done anything like this on the Leaf.

Specifically, I am looking for help on identifying where to buy a proper dash switch and led fog lights/mounts. Also help on identifying how to properly wire them all together would be very appreciated as well.

If this should be a new thread, I will try to figure out how to start one...

Thanks!

I would be inclined to say that should be a new thread. Take a quick search, I think there are already fog light threads you could use...

GeekEV said:

There have been a couple of threads discussing adding Daytime Running Lights (DRL) to the LEAF. Some people have done it, but I haven't seen any clear documentation on how. So here's how you do it. Total cost was about $35.
<SNIP>

Any questions?

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GeekEV, thanks for the DIY. After seeing it at the last gathering I have decided to go for it myself. I have a question for you about how much room there is. Looking at the pictures, it looks like there is room for two modules on each side. I'm thinking that it would look better with a full bar (broken up by the damn license plate).

What do you think? Can I put two on each side? Will there be a noticeable gap between then (a dark area where the two modules touch)?

Thanks!
John O

Why not just leave the LED headlights on instead? Does the two light bars save that much charge when compared to leaving the headlights on? I am all for customization, but want to know the value proposition.

asinclair said:

Specifically, I am looking for help on identifying where to buy a proper dash switch and led fog lights/mounts.

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Not on a dashboard switch in the LEAF, as it happens. It is instead built into the lightning stalk.

JohnOver said:

Looking at the pictures, it looks like there is room for two modules on each side. I'm thinking that it would look better with a full bar (broken up by the damn license plate).

What do you think? Can I put two on each side? Will there be a noticeable gap between then (a dark area where the two modules touch)?

Click to expand...

Two modules should fit just fine. Although they blur together in my pictures, and probably at night, during the day you see each discreet LED. These particular bars have an alternating pattern of spacer, LED, spacer, LED, etc. and they start and end with spacers. Which means that if you put two together, there would likely be a noticeable gap between them. However, there are lots of different kinds of light bars out there - keep looking! As long as they're 12v DC, the method of install would be the same.

reeler said:

Why not just leave the LED headlights on instead? Does the two light bars save that much charge when compared to leaving the headlights on? I am all for customization, but want to know the value proposition.

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The value proposition has four main components:

1. They are inexpensive and relatively easy to install.
2. They look cool.
3. Headlights can be turned off. When installed in a proper manner, these cannot be. Therefore, they meet the definition of DRLs and you should be able claim the DRL discount on your insurance (I did).
4. If the headlights are left in the ON position when you power off the car, the car will make an annoying beep and show you a dash reminder to turn the lights off. Though they do still turn off on their own according to your preferences set in the center console.

If you are doing it strictly for safety and can live with the fact that you might accidentally turn them off, can't claim the DRL discount on your insurance and can live with the annoying beep every time you turn the car off - go for it.