120-to-240 Adapter Kit (Rev 1)

[mwalsh]

Without the distractions of the MNL forum yesterday, I managed to get my unit just about finished. I say "just about" because I actually don't have my relays yet (they are supposed to be here next week). So the test run you see here is done with the utmost care on my part, and with particular attention to avoiding extraneous unplugging from the outlets I would use by others.

I used (more or less) the same specs as pi100, though you can see I went with 18" stubbies cut from the receptacle end of my new extension cord. I then added a new receptacle to the remainder, giving me a 22' extension cord to keep with the unit. I figured I never would be more than a foot from at least one of the sockets I'd be combining, what with the adequately long J1772 cord on the EVSE.

[91040]

Just successfully completed this project. Many thanks to all who posted information especially, pii100 and garygid. Correlating this thread with http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.p ... &start=110" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; gave me enough knowledge to do it since I have little experience with this.

[tbleakne]

Just successfully completed this project. Many thanks to all who posted information especially, pii100 and garygid.

If you, 91040, have completed this project, then I am going to try it also. I have ordered the parts, including the relays. I am going with the pilot light selected by pii100. The light suggested by garygid from newark is a little smaller and cheaper, but it appears to ship from the UK with a $20 handling charge.

I have a few questions:

1. How, exactly, do the relays provide added safety ? According to the schematic, each relay is energized if its corresponding 120V circuit is complete. Each relay, when energized, connects its half of the 240v circuit to the output. So each half of the 240v circuit is energized if and only if the corresponding 120V plug is live. How is that different from just wiring the hot (black) wire from each 120v line to the output?

If both plugs are on the same phase, the neon light sees no voltage and does not light, but both relays are still energized. If one outlet has its neutral and hot wire reversed, the output will see 120v and the neon light will not light. If both are reversed the output circuit is just 2 neutrals and there is no voltage. I need help seeing the added value from the relays.

2. Are "quick connect" pairs the same as spade lugs? I found some Ideal-brand quick connect assortments at Lowes, with the different colors, but they only listed wire sizes, and did not mention .250, .157 etc. Are these values the width, in inches, of the lugs ?

3. I want to go with the L6-20 output pigtail option to avoid the big mounting hole for a L6-20R socket. However, won't this mean I have to connect both the pigtail's wires and the lamp's wires to the same relay terminals? What is the best way do that ?

Lowes has a 1/2 in drill-bit with a shaft to fit my 3/8 in drill for drilling the 1/2 in holes.

[ebill3]

1. How, exactly, do the relays provide added safety ? According to the schematic, each relay is energized if its corresponding 120V circuit is complete. Each relay, when energized, connects its half of the 240v circuit to the output. So each half of the 240v circuit is energized if and only if the corresponding 120V plug is live. How is that different from just wiring the hot (black) wire from each 120v line to the output?

Assume no relays.

If the EVSE is plugged into the L6-20R, and one 120 volt plug is unplugged by an unsuspecting person, there is a direct path for the other 120 volt hot through the EVSE to the now exposed 120 volt plug.

With the relay, when the 120 volt plug is unplugged, that circuit is broken.

Bill

[91040]

Just successfully completed this project. Many thanks to all who posted information especially, pii100 and garygid.

If you, 91040, have completed this project, then I am going to try it also. I have ordered the parts, including the relays. I am going with the pilot light selected by pii100. The light suggested by garygid from newark is a little smaller and cheaper, but it appears to ship from the UK with a $20 handling charge.

I have a few questions:

1. How, exactly, do the relays provide added safety ? According to the schematic, each relay is energized if its corresponding 120V circuit is complete. Each relay, when energized, connects its half of the 240v circuit to the output. So each half of the 240v circuit is energized if and only if the corresponding 120V plug is live. How is that different from just wiring the hot (black) wire from each 120v line to the output?

If both plugs are on the same phase, the neon light sees no voltage and does not light, but both relays are still energized. If one outlet has its neutral and hot wire reversed, the output will see 120v and the neon light will not light. If both are reversed the output circuit is just 2 neutrals and there is no voltage. I need help seeing the added value from the relays.

2. Are "quick connect" pairs the same as spade lugs? I found some Ideal-brand quick connect assortments at Lowes, with the different colors, but they only listed wire sizes, and did not mention .250, .157 etc. Are these values the width, in inches, of the lugs ?

3. I want to go with the L6-20 output pigtail option to avoid the big mounting hole for a L6-20R socket. However, won't this mean I have to connect both the pigtail's wires and the lamp's wires to the same relay terminals? What is the best way do that ?

Lowes has a 1/2 in drill-bit with a shaft to fit my 3/8 in drill for drilling the 1/2 in holes.

I will let the experts cover the design issues. However, my understanding is that the relays keep one male plug from being energized by the other. garygid's quick (and dirty) "y" connector can do that!

The "quick connect" plugs seem also to be called "spade lugs" and "disconnects." I only found the correct sizes at auto part stores. My relays used .25" and .187" connectors. The biggest .187" only came in the blue size. I have extra if you want to wait until I see you next.

I used the L6-20 pig tail. The hot wires go directly to the relays with the lamp wire crimped into the same connector's as well. I used a wire nut for all the ground wires.

The wire clamps I used need a 7/8" hole. I used a 3/4" circular saw and had to file and sand to open it up enough. I also used the silicon sealer (left over from the SOC project to seal the openings in the box.

Good luck and have fun.

Though redundant, this is my parts list:

Cantex Project Box -Lowes. Item #: 10008 4"x4"x2"

L6-20R Pig tail

(2) G3411204 General Purpose Extension Cords (12/3),Single Connector,10Ft $11.09
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00057627/k-G3411204/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

G2854607 Raised Indicator Light, Red, 250V $4.99
http://www.zorotools.com/g/Indicator%20Lights/00055114/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(3) G1448212 Compact Nylon Multicord Grips, 1 Cord,1/2 In $1.82
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00058757/k-C ... d%20Grips/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

(2) G2813395 Enclosed Power Relays Magnecraft Relay,Power,4 Pin,SPST-NO,30A,120VAC $5.81
http://www.zorotools.com/g/00062830/k-G2813395/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Female Spade Lugs: (4) 0.250 yellow (12 gauge) (4) 0.187 blue

Wire Nut, yellow

(3) 1/2" lock nuts

Command Poster Strips (to hold the relays in place)

I used Zoro because they had most of what I needed. I added an extra item to avoid the shipping charge. No problem dealing with them.

[tbleakne]

1. How, exactly, do the relays provide added safety ? According to the schematic, each relay is energized if its corresponding 120V circuit is complete. Each relay, when energized, connects its half of the 240v circuit to the output. So each half of the 240v circuit is energized if and only if the corresponding 120V plug is live. How is that different from just wiring the hot (black) wire from each 120v line to the output?

Assume no relays.

If the EVSE is plugged into the L6-20R, and one 120 volt plug is unplugged by an unsuspecting person, there is a direct path for the other 120 volt hot through the EVSE to the now exposed 120 volt plug.

With the relay, when the 120 volt plug is unplugged, that circuit is broken.

Bill

This makes sense. I didn't consider the case you described. Thanks.

[fooljoe]

3. I want to go with the L6-20 output pigtail option to avoid the big mounting hole for a L6-20R socket. However, won't this mean I have to connect both the pigtail's wires and the lamp's wires to the same relay terminals? What is the best way do that ?

Check out the other thread that 91040 linked to and you'll see exactly what I did for one of these adapters with an L6-20R pigtail.

[Ingineer]

Definitely connect BOTH the 120v grounds together at the L6-20! There is no problem with "ground loops".

Also, I will go on record and state again; The relays are absolutely necessary for safety! Do not omit these!

For those that want the "deluxe" model with the beeper (makes it easier to quickly find the 2 correct outlets by sounding an alert for a few seconds):


Note: S1 not needed unless you want a convenient way to switch to 120v 12A "on the fly".

-Phil

[fooljoe]

Note: S1 not needed unless you want a convenient way to switch to 120v 12A "on the fly".

If you want the ability to switch to 120v on the fly, as I did, you can also achieve this without a separate switch by substituting in an SPDT relay and connecting the opposite 120v neutral to the NC terminal on it, as I described here.

[tbleakne]

The wire clamps I used need a 7/8" hole. I used a 3/4" circular saw and had to file and sand to open it up enough. I also used the silicon sealer (left over from the SOC project to seal the openings in the box.

Now that I have received the wire clamps, it appears that one end would require 3/4" hole and the other end would fit "7/8" hole. fooljoe's photo
http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.p ... 61#p126261
shows his clamps mounted via lock-washers on the "3/4" side. Did you get a larger wire clamp, or did you mount the clamps via the bigger end? I have bought a "7/8" hole saw but I could take it back for the "3/4" size. I apologize for all my clueless detailed questions .