Assistance with LeafSpy Pro results - new user at the buy/don't buy threshold - photos

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Elvisking

Member
Joined
Jul 26, 2021
Messages
5
Hello:
First-time poster here - apologies for mis-posting, etc.

TL;DR - the meat of the question begins at 4. below.

1. I'm in the market for an EV, having watched from the sidelines for a few years, and when the 2005 RAV4 needed more emissions work thatn the car was worth, I decided to take the plunge (or to try to)...

2. I test drove a 2019 Leaf SV plus, +/- 13k miles, $25k, in California, in great cosmetic shape, a real indulgence to me having never contemplated even half this cost before on a car. I test drove the Tesla 3, Bolt, and BMW i3, and on a lark, test drove the leaf at a used EV specialist dealer's lot, and liked it...a lot. I understand the workings of ICE cars, and watched all the videos on the bolt, since that is what I assumed I'd buy (even though, my heart wasn't really into it styling-wise, although I deeply admire the engineering LG Chem did with that car).

3. I bought the Leaf, charged it at a chademo station, and immediately thereafter, the car threw a "service EV system" and turtle mode...on day 2 of ownership. I spoke with the seller, and we agreed to extend the 3 day rescind period another 14 days while I take it to the dealer for service (still under warranty). I'd really really rather have this leaf than the bolt, but all this guy has are Bolts and other cars I'm not interested in.

4. So, I bought leafspy pro and an OBDII sensor, and it shows some things that I can't quite sort out. It appears to show a fault in cell...67? 68?, but also, the odometer reading on leafspy is far different than the car's odometer. car shows over 13k miles, leafspy pro shows 8,500 miles. all the youtube videos show a discrepancy of 1 or 2 miles. So there's that. Also, the VIN keeps jumping around and showing different numbers, cycling every few seconds.

I've attached (hopefully) some leafspy pro screenshots and would be grateful for the collective expert opinion(s).

Thanks in advance.
 
The car has a bad cell, and other issues judging from all the error codes. If you don't want to be soured on EVs, and on Leafs in particular, I would return it. Most Leafs are great, but there have been some with bad packs, and this appears to be one of them.
 
Thank you Leftie, and I think it's probably the easiest path forward for me (returning the car), although I think the way the contract is structured, I'd get a return for another car on his lot. I could probably fight it, but I'd rather not go through all the brain damage of a protracted legal battle. He doesn't have another leaf, and usually only moves Bolts, and an older i3 w/o the range i'd need. so I think i'll see what the dealer has to say, and will see if i can get another late model leaf plus somewhere nearby.

Any thoughts on the odo discrepancy? Of course I suspect tomfoolery with the odometer, but the displayed odometer is substantially higher than what leafspy says, so that doesn't really add up, motive-wise. does leafspy somehow read a different log for the odo reading? confusing....
 
Earlier versions of LeafSpy are way off on the odometer readings. Try forcing an update.

Don't get a car you don't like, either. The problem with these 'bandit' dealers is that unless the mileage is too high for great retail value at dealerships, the cars usually have hidden defects.
 
Elvisking said:
Hello:

2. I test drove a 2019 Leaf SV plus, +/- 13k miles, $25k, in California, in great cosmetic shape, a real indulgence to me having never contemplated even half this cost before on a car.

If dealers are "dealing" like in Texas, the difference of a 2021 SV Plus (with tech) may make it worthwhile to consider - IF the $7500 tax credit works for you. Just purchased one for the equivalent of about $28,000 including all TTL, dealer crap, etc. I opted for the 100,000 mile warranty, and a did trade (not included), so hard to direct compare, but that number is real close.
 
That's a great price! Here in CO we still get $2500 state credit as well as the Federal credit. I think there may be some small utility rebates available on some cars as well but I think those only apply at 'approved' dealers so probably won't work out of state. Still, an SV+ for under $20k out the door is impressive.
 
LeftieBiker said:
Earlier versions of LeafSpy are way off on the odometer readings. Try forcing an update.
I had this problem even in the latest LeafSpy version on IOS.
Go to the LeafSpy Settings menu and make sure "CAN Odometer in Miles" is enabled.
 
oxothuk said:
LeftieBiker said:
Earlier versions of LeafSpy are way off on the odometer readings. Try forcing an update.
I had this problem even in the latest LeafSpy version on IOS.
Go to the LeafSpy Settings menu and make sure "CAN Odometer in Miles" is enabled.

This, exactly! I went into settings and selected CAN odo in miles. Done. Thanks again!
 
Most of the DTC's (error codes) are indicative of a deeply discharged 12V battery. LEAF Spy Pro allows you to clear DTC's so you could clear them and see if they return. The Multi AV errors are similar to what I see with mine. I can sometimes clear them, but they always come back almost immediately. I was concerned at first, but I think it is related to a slight incompatibility with LEAF Spy so I quit worrying about it. There are a lot of charge cycles for a car with so low mileage so I suspect it was plugged in (often QC) every time it was driven. The one weak cell pair may improve after some full charge/deep discharge cycles. If not, the battery does have an 8-year, 100,000-mile capacity and defect warranty. Personally, I would probably keep the LEAF rather than settle for something else that the dealer offered (unless I could get a cash refund).
 
It is a lot harder than it should be for Nissan to accept a warranty claim for a bad cell. Other owners have been told that until specific DTCs log in conjunction witIh the weak cell, Nissan will reject the claim. It also does not help that dealerships are mostly clueless, and will waste your time and money to run irrelevant tests.

CAN this car be brought up to working order through warranty ? Highly likely, but it may take, money, aggravation, and downtime.

If I was stuck with this car, I would replace the 12v battery and then see where things stand. If DTCs continue to log then you have an easier dealer path.
 
It is a lot harder than it should be for Nissan to accept a warranty claim for a bad cell. Other owners have been told that until specific DTCs log in conjunctions witIh the weak cell, Nissan will reject the claim. It also does not help that dealerships are mostly clueless, and will waste your time and money to run irrelevant tests.

CAN this car be brought up to working order through warranty ? Highly likely, but it may take, money, aggravation, and downtime.

If I was stuck with this car, I would replace the 12v battery and then see where things stand. If DTCs continue to log then you have an easier dealer path.
 
Thank you everyone, for the posts. The car is at the (from first impressions, clueless) dealer, and we shall wait, and see.
 
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