DIY 12v Battery Change

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Joined
Feb 15, 2020
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Is there an existing thread which simply deals with a 12V Battery Replacement :?: I have a brand new 12V Battery a like for like replacement for the original on my 2016 24 kWh Nissan Leaf Acenta (with heat pump).

Yes youtube makes it look easy.....and the general procedure reproduced from the service manual does too before the rather off-putting table, of the possible consequent effects of disconnecting the negative terminal from the 12V battery rears its head.

I need a bit of reassurance as a newbie that in reality a D.I.Y. battery swap is straightforward, and unwanted consequences, maybe even requiring reseting by dealer diagnostic tools is not the norm in what should be a straightforward piece of normal maintenance. This is what I have gleaned about the process so far.

Precaution for Removing 12V Battery
1. Check that ESVE is not connected. NOTE: If ESVE is connected, the air conditioning system may be automatically activated by the timer A/C function.
2. Turn the power switch OFF....ON.....OFF. Get out of the vehicle. Close all doors (including back door).
3. Check that the charge status indicator lamp does not b link and wait for 5 minutes or more. NOTE: If the battery is removed within 5 minutes after the power switch is turned OFF, plural DTCs may be detected.
4. Remove 12V battery within 1 hour after turning the power switch OFF...ON....OFF. NOTE: The 12V battery automatic charge control may start automatically even when the power switch is in OFF state.

• Once the power switch is turned ON....OFF, the 12V battery automatic charge control does not start for approximately 1 hour.

CAUTION:
After all doors (including back door) are closed, if a door (including back door) is opened before battery terminals are disconnected, start over from Step 1.
After turning the power switch OFF, if “Remote A/C” is activated by user operation, stop the air conditioner and start over from Step 1

Now the "Procedure"

Removal and Installation
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect the 12V battery cable from the negative terminal. Refer to PG-6, "Precaution for Removing 12V Battery"
CAUTION: To prevent damage to the parts, disconnect the 12V battery cable from the negative terminal first.
2. Remove cover of 12V battery positive terminal.
3. Disconnect the 12V battery cable from the positive terminal.
4. Remove battery frame nuts and battery frame.
5. Remove 12V battery.
INSTALLATION
Install in the reverse order of removal.
CAUTION:To install the 12V battery, carefully read the following instructions.
• To prevent damage to the parts, connect the 12V battery cable to the positive terminal first. After connecting 12V battery cables, to securely supply 12V battery voltage, ensure that they are tightly clamped to 12V battery terminals for good contact.

• To securely supply 12V battery voltage, check 12V battery terminal for poor connection caused by corrosion

and finally the "possible consequences bit"

Reset electronic systems as necessary. Refer to PG-86, "Special Repair Requirement"

So I wonder what PG86 has in store......this together with links to other sections of the manual with detailed procedures for the items mentioned.
ADDITIONAL SERVICE WHEN REMOVING 12V BATTERY NEGATIVE TERMINAL
Special Repair Requirement

EV Control System
VCM Timer Adjustment
Power Window Control System
Power Window System Initialization
Heater & Air Conditioning Control System
Temperature Setting Trimmer
Inlet Port Memory Function (REC)
Inlet Port Memory Function (FRE)
Foot Position Setting Trimmer
Compressor Operation Setting at Defroster Mode (Timer/Remote/Climate Control)
Setting of Compressor Maximum Rotation Speed During Pre Air Conditioning
Setting of Compressor Maximum Rotation Speed During Idling
Audio, Visual & Navigation System
Audio (Radio Preset)
Navigation System

REgards Neil
 
I think that someone has posted the DIY procedure, but I can't find it. I'll leave this topic up at least until someone posts a link to the existing one. I may even leave it up after that, to make the info easier to find.
 
A simple approach is to use another 12V battery (jumper battery) with cables:

1. Connect the jumper battery, plus (red) to the positive terminal & minus (black) to the negative terminal of the Leaf.
Make sure that the cables are connected such that the Leaf battery connection nuts can be loosened.
2. Use a box/open-end wrench to loosen the battery cable nuts.
3. Carefully remove both the positive & negative Leaf battery cables and move aside so they don't obstruct the battery removal.
Make sure that the cables don't touch one another.
4. Remove the battery bracket, and lift the original battery out of the vehicle.
5. Place the new battery on the battery tray, and install the holding bracket.
6. Install the battery cables (still connected to the jumper battery), and tighten the two cable nuts.
7. Remove the jumper battery.

This approach will prevent any disruption of power to the Leaf's ECUs, and prevent any error codes.
 
If you have Leaf Spy Pro, you can always clear the error codes after installing the new battery. I may have just been lucky, but replaced the batteries in both 2011 and 2015 by disconnecting the old one and installing the new one without following the elaborate procedure shown in the service manual or connecting a booster battery. I also disconnected the negative terminal on the 2015 a few times to clear CAN Bus errors. I did need to use Leaf Spy to clear remaining DTCs as part of completely clearing the CAN Bus issues.

Edited to add: If the battery is disconnected for too long, settings like timers and radio presets may be lost.
 
GerryAZ said:
...
Edited to add: If the battery is disconnected for too long, settings like timers and radio presets may be lost.

I disconnect the battery on occasion to deal with the flaky telecommunications unit, and those are about the only issues I've had, along with the drivers' window -- if you've set that to auto up/down you'll need to set it again. I think once the car horn did start honking wildly for some Nissan reason and I just had to disconnect for awhile to let it calm down, and then reconnected as normal. I don't see any need to overthink this; I can't recall anyone causing serious problems by disconnecting the 12V battery. In fact, disconnecting the battery is often recommended to resolve various glitches.
 
Yes, even brief disconnect requires reset of driver window auto up/down. To reset in down direction just open window and hold button in down position for a few seconds after window is fully open; in up direction, just close window and hold button in up position for a few seconds after window is fully closed.
 
The original poster should not be fearful of this battery replacement "procedure"

You do not need to worry about disconnecting the battery..... At worst, you will need to reset your radio stations...

Remove the black negative cable and then the red positive cable.

remove the hold=down clamps, and install the new battery.

What i would caution you is to NOT tighten the terminal bolts too tightly. Just "firmly"

You can easily bend and damage the terminal clamps by over-tightening... when it feels like a little resistance, then you are done...

PS - That suggestion of attaching another battery to the terminals is dangerous, and is actually impossible to complete.
 
Thanks for the responses so far to my first post. Re-assuring. No real scare stories.....yet!

That manual is a scary thing though......the end product of your modern car.....its a wonder when its all put together that it actually works :D (yes or not as the case may be!).

Regards Neil
 
powersurge said:
You do not need to worry about disconnecting the battery..... At worst, you will need to reset your radio stations...


When I changed mine:

Eyebrow clock reset to 0:00
Desired cabin temperature reset to 75 degrees (default?)
Charge timers were erased.
Charge percentage also defaulted to 100%.

Radio stations were retained.

My car sat without a battery for about 24 hours, while I trickle charged the replacement.
 
One note: a 12v battery replacement on a BEV capable of starting a charge session from the traction battery to the 12v is a different animal from a conventional vehicle - we don't normally replace a starter battery on a conventional vehicle with it running and the alternator providing a charge.

If the OP's instructions are true regarding a 12v charge session possibly starting unexpectedly, the "off-on-off" sequence to disable said charge for an hour might be of interest. At least as an edge case. I don't think there's enough amperage to be a concern, and 12v isn't enough to push a current through your body barring extenuating circumstances (hands wet, standing in a puddle) but it is a difference to the norm most folks know.

I would say, don't make this harder than it is. Disable the 12v charge option as described, swap out your battery with a suitable replacement, make sure your terminals have a good connection, and consider a coating with a dielectric as suggested above. No biggie.
 
It matters only in that the car body is grounded to the negative terminal of the battery. If the wrench hits the body of the car while disconnecting the positive cable end before the negative cable is disconnected, it will short out. If the negative terminal is disconnected first this isn't a problem. If the wrench hits the body of the car while disconnecting the negative cable first it is is also fine. So it's a bit safer to disconnect the negative terminal first.
 
lorenfb said:
powersurge said:
Remove the black negative cable and then the red positive cable.

It doesn't matter, i.e. the electrons don't care.

Not true. Old school wisdom - disconnect earth lead first, reconnect last. Only place lead color applies is on the rarity that is the positively earthed vehicle (ie: MGs before 1968).
 
mwalsh said:
lorenfb said:
powersurge said:
Remove the black negative cable and then the red positive cable.

It doesn't matter, i.e. the electrons don't care.

Not true. Old school wisdom - disconnect earth lead first, reconnect last. Only place lead color applies is on the rarity that is the positively earthed vehicle (ie: MGs before 1968).

Laughable, that's mentioned! If one is incapable of properly using tools, take it to a Nissan dealer. Besides some have a problem
determining the positive from the negative terminal (no red cable or poorly marked posts), resulting in damage to the vehicle's
electrical system when installing the replacement battery.
 
lorenfb said:
Laughable, that's mentioned! If one is incapable of properly using tools, take it to a Nissan dealer. Besides some have a problem
determining the positive from the negative terminal (no red cable or poorly marked posts), resulting in damage to the vehicle's
electrical system when installing the replacement battery.

I don't know what's laughable about it - I'm saying that in some (admittedly rare) instances you aren't going to see a black cable at the negative terminal and a red one at the positive terminal. You've as much as said the same yourself right here.

And the reason you disconnect the earth lead first is so that you don't accidentally short the other terminal to the car body while the battery is still grounded. Not only do you short your battery out, but you end up welding whatever metal object you dropped between the two to that panel. And I didn't notice this until just now, but goldbrick says the same thing.

But, you know, you take care of your **** the way you want and I'll do likewise.
 
LeftieBiker said:
It's sound advice to disconnect the negative cable first in negative ground vehicles.

For some that typically use the wrong tool for the application! Also not helpful for those that can't correctly identify the negative terminal.
 
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