TreeStar wrote:I'll probably put enough down to get my payments under $300.
You should calculate the total cost of the lease for the $0 down case vs. whatever you plan to put down.
Then ask yourself, are the savings over total cost of lease worth losing all $ paid so far (down payment + all payments thus far), if the car is totaled.
It was mentioned that the batteries have shown to be somewhat problematic? Losing bars?
You're in Oregon, amongst the mildest climate for temperature-based battery capacity loss.
The guy at https://www.facebook.com/groups/seattle ... 631254435/
is at 90.1K miles and still has all 12 bars on his '13. The previous record I'd heard of (at least for the US) was 1 bar gone at 89K miles at https://www.facebook.com/groups/seattle ... %22R%22%7D
I'm still at 12 bars on my used '13 at almost 45K miles that was built 5/2013 that I bought in July 2015. From Leaf Spy stats, I've been creeping closer to losing a bar. I'm not in nearly as mild of climate as Oregon. In contrast
, this is what Phoenix
does to a Leaf built the same month: http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.p ... 95#p473995
Did we already point you to https://www.facebook.com/notes/16224457 ... 373291032/
Unfortunately, it seems like the 30 kWh batteries in '16+ SV and SL, '16 "S 30" and '17+ Leafs aren't holding up that well in terms of capacity loss. Either those folks have defective batteries or Nissan took a step back compared to batteries in 4/2013+ built thru model year '15 Leafs. Leaf from '11 thru '15 was always 24 kWh.
The only good thing is that the 30 kWh batteries have an 8 year/100K capacity warranty (if you're down to 8 bars, they'll replace it udner warranty) vs 5 years/60K miles on the 24 kWh. Problem is, we don't know if the capacity percentages for each bar are still the same on the 30 kWh Leafs. Before, down to 8 bars == a bit over 30% capacity loss.