Thanks for this link to the PDF. In case that link ever goes bad you can search for "we-30CIRE residential service manual" - I was able to find another copy on the internet at http://www.rdrop.com/pipermail/oeva-lis ... 10195.html
. I tried the steps in this manual but I'm not optimistic the problem is fixed.
Let me summarize my adventures in the last 2 years with the Self-Test faults. I tried moving the CTs... went away... came back. I tried lobotomizing it... went away... came back. I then put the smart electronics back... went away... came back. I then left the cover off and was finally able to catch it in the act and was able to get it to work again after fiddling with the CT and the switch attached to the side of the contactor. I noticed that mine was throwing the fault before the contactor closed, so it had nothing to do with an RF surge, and therefore has nothing to do with whether the CT & Ferrite is slid to one side or the other. The RF surge only happens after the contactor closes.
First I replaced that switch next to the contactor, but I was disappointed to find the brand new one also didn't have a spring - it just relies upon the contactor, and as I feared it did not resolve the problem. I then focused on the CT and a couple of times I was able to press the display to clear the fault, move the CTs around, and get it to charge. In the past I had never been able to get it to charge without power cycling so I thought this was progress. Now after checking back on this thread and reading the PDF I think I understand the problem better. I think the CTs are definitely the problem, and everytime someone fiddles with their cable it temporarily solves the problem.
The PDF link explains in TSB-42 that before charging, a signal is sent down 2 wires of the CT, and read on the other 2. If the signal isn't within expected values, it throws the Self-Test fault. It sure would have been nice to call it a CT fault instead... but we finally learn the truth. Their fix is to :
- Test the "self-weld switch" by resistance which is the funny box stuck to the contactor, a "Cutler Hammer C320KG1 Contactor Auxilliary Contact". I already replaced mine without effect.
- Cut the two main CT leads and test resistance is under <50 ohms, mine was 44 so it's OK. If the CT resistance was >50ohms, replace it.
- Replace the butt splices. I didn't have the ferrule or tool it requires so I used the smallest wire nut I could find... most won't work. I tried to open the old butt splices and look but they appear to have been glued??!! The connections seemed solid but the glue could be interfering with them. I tested the splices with my meter and couldn't make it fail so I'm quite skeptical this will solve the problem. That's what I've done so far and will have to let it test for a month to see if it comes back
- Check the CT motherboard connector pins that they aren't falling out. I checked mine - no issues.
So based on my experiments I do feel the problem is with the CT. Their suggestions of the butt splices & motherboard connector make sense, but I see no evidence that's my problem. The last step I could take it to replace the CT. I believe OpenEVSE sells a 4 wire CT w/self-test which should work https://store.openevse.com/products/gfc ... ransformer
If none of this works, I was planning on using the OpenEVSE kit to replace the "brains" of the Blink charger. I believe this kit for $105 (LED only ) to $150 (color LCD) https://store.openevse.com/products/ope ... penevse-v3
can be used to replace everything inside the Blink charger box reusing the 240V AC connection, J1772 connector, and CH contactor. I've read the instructions and it seems pretty straightforward except mounting the LCD to the cabinet which will be challenge since they only give you a few inches of cable for their tiny box. Their $250 kit https://store.openevse.com/products/ope ... tion-combo
replaces the blink box and contactor as well. I've seen hints that other people have done this but couldn't find any firsthand reports.