HOW TO: Daytime Running Lights (DRL) installed for $35

[Leafboy]

When I did it on my '11 model car I noticed there were similar color wires in the PDM. Be sure you have the correct one.

[Yodrak]

Thanks for your reply. Based on the diagram in GeekEV's original post I'm quite sure I got the correct wire. As I wrote, I've had mixed success using those wire taps and am reluctant to keep trying to make a good connection given the limited space and length of wire accessible in the PDM. I'll eventually make another try if I can't find a suitable fuse to piggy-back off of.

Thanks again.

When I did it on my '11 model car I noticed there were similar color wires in the PDM. Be sure you have the correct one.

[Yodrak]

Is "the w6 fuse block next to the battery" the fuse block to the left of the battery, on the motor side, or the fuse block in back of the battery, on the firewall side?

Also, how is "fuse f21" labeled in the fuse-block cover? My cover shows the function of the fuses but does not show fuse numbers.

Thanks

On a 2016 leaf you can simply pull fuse f21 in the w6 fuse block next to the battery and add an add-a-fuse adaptor there. ... F21 is on the ready circuit bus and comes on whenever the car is in ready mode.
...
I suspect that this will work on any Leaf but haven't actually checked it out.

[Yodrak]

Solution found, I think. On my 2013 SL w/o Bose and all-around cameras, in the fuse box behind the battery, attached to the firewall, are four fuse positions. Three of them have 10 A fuses in them, one has no fuse but it does have one terminal. That terminal is dead when the Leaf is off and is energized when the Leaf is in 'On' or 'Run' status. [EDIT: I've found that the terminal is also energized, so the DRLs are on, when the Leaf is charging. A little extra wear and tear on the LEDs, and a little more 'juice' being used while charging, but I think not a concern.]

I connected the red wire from my DRLs to the terminal in the unused fuse position and everything seems to be working correctly.

As an aside, I bought my DRLs at Auto Zone maybe 5-6 months ago for $20-$25, if I recall correctly. They look just like those in GeekEVs pictures and I mounted them in the same location, although I didn't realize it when I did it. I don't know what the brightness spec is, but they look plenty bright to me so I'm happy to have finally completed the installation.

Next up - a backup camera.

Is "the w6 fuse block next to the battery" the fuse block to the left of the battery, on the motor side, or the fuse block in back of the battery, on the firewall side?

[johnlocke]

Is "the w6 fuse block next to the battery" the fuse block to the left of the battery, on the motor side, or the fuse block in back of the battery, on the firewall side?

Also, how is "fuse f21" labeled in the fuse-block cover? My cover shows the function of the fuses but does not show fuse numbers.

Thanks

On a 2016 leaf you can simply pull fuse f21 in the w6 fuse block next to the battery and add an add-a-fuse adaptor there. ... F21 is on the ready circuit bus and comes on whenever the car is in ready mode.
...
I suspect that this will work on any Leaf but haven't actually checked it out.

W6 is the large fuse block on the driver's side behind the battery. On my car the fuses are numbered on the inside of the cover as I remember.

[Yodrak]

Thanks for getting back to me on this. I think this is the same fuse block I ended up using, although as far as I could find its not labeled W6 and the fuse positions are not numbered on my 2013.

FWIW the PDM on the right side of the battery is labeled W3, and there's a spot labeled f21 but there's a wire attached there not a fuse.

W6 is the large fuse block on the driver's side behind the battery. On my car the fuses are numbered on the inside of the cover as I remember.

[Agondonter]

This weekend I finally got rid of the yellowish stock DRLs.
=====><=====
This is the final result (wait 5 seconds, it's a two-frame GIF)

The replacement of the original incandescent bulbs was slow and laborious, because the LED I used are far away from reality, and they are just too fat, to fit into the P13W place. I had to remove the fog-DRL-light assembly, and increase the diameter of the hole of the reflector. The good news is - NISSAN used cheap plastic reflector, very easy to drill.

I also replaced the fog light bulb with LED, but the only difference is the color of the light. (And about 1,5 times more bright light.) The design of the European fog-DRL-light assembly is very clumsy, and is just not compatible with LED bulbs. Approx. 40% of the LED bulb stay behind the reflector. Nissan's CEOs need to have some private meetings with Audi...

[rogie]

Thanks for getting back to me on this. I think this is the same fuse block I ended up using, although as far as I could find its not labeled W6 and the fuse positions are not numbered on my 2013.

FWIW the PDM on the right side of the battery is labeled W3, and there's a spot labeled f21 but there's a wire attached there not a fuse.

W6 is the large fuse block on the driver's side behind the battery. On my car the fuses are numbered on the inside of the cover as I remember.

I am going to give this a go.

Are there any additional precautions aside from disconnecting the battery before starting.

[ucsmfu]

Here's my led drl, still gonna figure out the wiring as my Leafcomes stock with DRL/highbeam dual filament bulb.

Enjoy the pics, I went with the PIA DR305 DRL

[blimpy]

what is the current draw ?

when I put on the "parking lights" in my 2016 SV.. I get the amber lamps in front.. which are closer to eye level.
distinctive in color..and I am guessing less than a 1/2 amp current draw ( eg ~ 6watts).. plus the draw of the LED tail lights..
with is a plus to have one.

got current draw numbers ( amps, milliamps, or watts) ?