Positive 12V source under dash

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gtleaf

Member
Joined
Apr 8, 2014
Messages
18
Hi, does anyone happen to know where is a good place to find / tap into a 12V supply under the dash that is also switched on/off with the ignition? I'm looking to power a low current draw circuit, won't draw any more than about 100ma.

Thanks,
Brian
 
That's what I tapped when I wired up my "Flap Ajar" indicator, and added a concealed dedicated socket for a GPS navigator.

It's very easy to pull the HVAC panel -- just a bare-hands pull -- but without tearing out a lot more, it's a pain in the butt to tap into the cable powering the 12V socket in the panel. I used suitcase connectors, but you have to cut away the jacketing on the cable, preferably without cutting up your fingers in the process. Glad I got both the indicator and the hidden socket in one swell foop.
 
Ok, thanks. I had thought about the 12V port but assumed it would be a PITA to get to it. I'll try popping the HVAC panel and see what I can do.

Brian
 
Are you talking about a newer leaf like a 2019? I tried pulling on the HVAC and also tried getting a flat head behind it and prying but it wouldn't budge. Are the hook clips on the top or bottom? I was trying to pull the shiny black bezel and tried prying behind it, assume that's what you meant?

2019-Nissan-Leaf-Plus-SL-interior-HVAC-controls.jpg
 
gtleaf said:
Are you talking about a newer leaf like a 2019? I tried pulling on the HVAC and also tried getting a flat head behind it and prying but it wouldn't budge. Are the hook clips on the top or bottom? I was trying to pull the shiny black bezel and tried prying behind it, assume that's what you meant?
I drive a 2018, with the "knob" HVAC panel, but I can't imagine it would be all that different.

While I was out photographing the current state of my GPS bracket, I gave mine a quick pull, just to refresh my memory on how it comes out. The part that you're pulling out extends behind the bezel (satin gunmetal on mine), BTW, so do not attempt to pry the bezel away from the underlying part!. Doing that would likely end badly. If you look at the sides, you'll see a fairly broad seam between the unit and both the dashboard above and the console below.

Hooked clips are at the top, with the hooks looking up. Pull from the bottom, gently but firmly, both sides at the same time. Both may give simultaneously, or one may give before the other. The seam between the bezel and the underlying part may give you something to dig your fingernails into, but once again, do not attempt to pry the bezel off the underlying part. I think there's a video out there on changing out the radio, that demonstrates the process.
 
Not exactly what the OP asked for, but the simplest solution might be a male cigarette lighter plug with a pigtail, like this one:

412qkCT0u3L._AC_SL1500_.jpg


https://amzn.to/3hauVXQ
 
That would of course be very good for a temporary/testing solution, but I got the impression that the OP was looking for something more permanent, that wouldn't leave the dashboard power socket tied up, and the dashboard draped with cables.

On old Arabella (my 1978 510), and also on the Camry, I put in a dedicated socket to plug my cell phone into. In the case of the Camry, it didn't just leave the dashboard socket free; it also allowed me to charge when the car was standing idle (since the dashboard socket, like the one on my Leaf, was on the accessory bus rather than the unswitched bus).

In the case of the power cable feeding my GPS navigator, I can hardly avoid having it exposed, but at least (once the bracket is finished and installed) I will be able to dress it nicely, and have it plugged into a concealed socket.
 
Yep, definitely looking for a more permanent solution. I appreciate all the tips, I'll try pulling the whole thing out again and see if it budges. I'll also take a look at the fuse panel you mentioned and possibly tap in there if it's easier.

Thanks!
 
Another possibility is teasing out the existing cigarette lighter plug from the front, without removing any bezel. It's not always possible, but I have had success with that before - sure saves a lot of time.
 
Fascinating. And utterly counter-intuitive.

Although now that pulling the HVAC panel has become second-nature to me, I think, now that I know the socket comes out the front, that probably pushing (and/or squeezing latches) from behind might be easier and less likely to cause the cover to break off.
 
That approach sure is a time saver - pop the receptacle, solder on a new wire to the terminals and fish the new wire through the receptacle hole to wherever you need it, then pop the receptacle back in place.
 
Agreed, I'm definitely going to try that approach first with popping off the receptacle, thanks!
 
Hey James, thanks for the picture. I went back and pulled on the bottom of the whole hvac module and it popped out pretty easily. That gets me to the back of the 12V port which will work fine.

Brian
 
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