Can you please prove part numbers and/or links for both the Sylvania & Philips products you used?
I'm interested in upgrading U.S. LEAFs with DRLs (both LED & non-LED versions and fog/non-fog versions).
What's your advice, plaese?
Sure. Here is what I did on my car:
Hoshi Automotive H13 LED replacements for the SV-trim halogen headlights (integrated hi/lo beams, not compatible with the OEM LED headlights). Not DOT approved, but nice clean beam pattern with sharp horizontal cutoff. No glare to oncoming traffic. I keep the original halogens in the Hoshi box in back, just in case the LED units were to unexpectedly fail (who knows, these are retrofit, not OEM).
License Plate: Philips "194LED" (two bulbs)
Interior Dome Light: Philips "FestoonLED" 30mm
Reverse Lights: Philips "921LED"
Cargo Area Light: Pilot Automotive ILC-3175AW COB LED 30mm Festoon
Be careful replacing the reverse lights... removing the rear light clusters risks scratching the body paint at the top if you aren't careful. The service manual recommends applying protective tape to the painted body around the upper part of the cluster housings just to be on the safe side. It's also a great opportunity to clean under the cluster housings - a surprising amount of dirt gets worked under them.
DRLs (not yet installed) Philips 12820WLEDX1 (DOT-approved, and a supplier to Mercedes for their DRLs). I will be using Bussman ATM Add-a-Fuse to power the lights from Fuse 21 in the IPC box and also tap the Position Lights fuse in the same box for the disable line to the Philips controller. In addition, I have found the relay-driver output that would normally control the OEM DTRL relays. That line is pulled to ground when the car is on and not in Park. If that is still functioning, I will see if I can have it drive an appropriate relay. Ultimately, I'd like to bypass the Philips controller with my own LED driver circuit and let the LEAF control the DRLs as originally intended.