Heater OFF switch on 1. gen. "plug &play" solution!

[TimLee]

Its a gen 1 early 2013

Made in Japan original design and VIN?
Then it is a 2012 model year per USA designation.

If is made in USA design and 2013 model year very strange to not have the heater off switch.

[kaiat]

I see that the user bluepassion is located in the UK. In Europe the gen 1-Leafs carried on into MY2013. In fact, deliveries of gen 2 in Europe didn't start before June 2013. Early 2013 Leafs are therefor more than likely gen 1.

[bluepassion]

I'm glad that's sorted lol

[DuncanCunningham]

I had an issue with my A/C compressor not wanting to turn on yesterday. I also noticed that I could not get the heater to turn on either. I checked fuses and they looked good. I use 'Leaf spy pro' to look at the DTC codes. I saw a few codes that I had the last time I had a 12v battery issue. I put the 12v battery on a charger and then cleared the DTCs. The codes all went away except the HVAC error. I tested the heater/ AC and again they would not trigger.

here is the DTC reading results.


I looked around the engine compartment hoping to see some issue that I could understand. No evidence of leaking hoses on the AC and no obvious loose cables. I usually maintain my own cars and only take to a mechanic when fancy tools are needed or a smarter set of eyes would see the issue. This one was becoming the latter.

As I started the mental process to be prepared to 'take it in' I thought I'd better unplug the heater switch incase they see it and get all confused about it. I did this and then cleared the DTC's again. This time they all cleared.. like so.



Now my A/C is working... yay. I wonder if some sequence of events occurred that nixed a DTC code that involved the Heater switch?

It was too dark for me to tackle putting the cable back in tonight, but I'll report back if the error returns after I do that. Just thought I'd share incase some of your ever have the same issue and have this mod.

[TorC]

Thanks for posting your problem.

If you had reset the car (by unplugging the 12v system) you would have had the same result.

The DTC error you have encountered is most lightly not related to the harness since it does nothing to the AC system. The AC system is on 400v, and the harness extending cables on the 12v system.

[jkline]

With the change in the weather, finally able to fully test TorC's mod-- it's great. I never got around to a nice drill/mount on the dash. I threaded the toggle to the right side of the display where it just tucked away to the left of where the passenger's feet would be. I think I'll just leave it there.

[Coronado54]

TorC,
Have you posted the switch videos on YouTube?
Thanks,
Ed

[bluepassion]

TorC,
Have you posted the switch videos on YouTube?
Thanks,
Ed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bM7DqJbAk_c

[macnut]

Just received mine - thanks Tor.

For installing the switch in the dash you need a 3/4" or 18mm. hole which is probably standard for automotive switches of the round kind.

I decided to put mine just above the 12V outlet pointing down toward the floor.
I imagine a right-angle drill would be helpful but I just used a regular corded drill and carefully positioned it to make a smaller pilot hole in the plastic.
After confirming that the small hole was in the right sort of place I enlarged it to about 3/8" with a fatter bit and then set to work with a round file to bring it up to 3/4".
You have to be careful with the file to not damage other plastic, foam wrap, wire bundles, etc. Scratched the cover cap for the power outlet a bit but that is not in direct view.
And that first contact with a drill bit is always difficult to avoid skidding. Can't really punch the plastic to create a biting point.
Not sure if you can buy a 'stubby drill bit' in a size as big as 3/4" so working with a round file may be unavoidable.
Unless of course you do some disassembly of dash panels which I didn't want to get into.

Where the two retaining spring clips for the switch sit in the hole might need to be a touch more than 3/4" - but work carefully and keep checking the hole for roundness as well as size. I used a 3/4" spade wood bit as a guide - handheld.

I positioned the switch so that I (OFF) was closest to the gear shifter puck and II (1/2 heat) was away toward the front of the car.
With that arrangement, when the power outlet cap is flipped up it touches the switch and puts it in the O neutral position (max. heat).
That's not a bad thing as long as you and passengers are in the know.

In hindsight, it might have been quicker/easier/better to install the switch in the driver or passenger kick panel.
OTOH I sort of like the concealed nature of where I put it.

Looking forward to no range loss now that air temp. is often down around 10C/ 50F.

[LeftieBiker]

And that first contact with a drill bit is always difficult to avoid skidding. Can't really punch the plastic to create a biting point.

You could probably 'hot punch' it with a heated small punch tip. That should melt a depression or small hole in which to start the bit.