6.6 kw charger on 2013 S model.

Yes in my Leaf charger is in the trunk, but I guess it should be more or less similar to one mounted on engine starting 2013, isn't that? I'll disassemble trunk compartment to check though. Have heard of Brusa, but it's not a cheap option, when there's a change to get OEM for good price. Thanks anyway.

Andrey said:

Yes in my Leaf charger is in the trunk, but I guess it should be more or less similar to one mounted on engine starting 2013, isn't that? I'll disassemble trunk compartment to check though. Have heard of Brusa, but it's not a cheap option, when there's a change to get OEM for good price. Thanks anyway.

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If you want to replace a 3.3kw rear mounted charger with a 6.6kw front mounted (in a whole "stack" of water-cooled components) unit, don't expect it to be easy or cheap.

And seems nobody did that before because ROI is negative. Seems charging modules are very different and cannot be interchanged.
Easier to get newer Leaf. Thanks!

I am holding onto hope that SOMEONE has figured this out!
I have a 2011 Leaf, and I would do anything to upgrade from 3.3KW to 6.6KW.
Yes, the one with the automatic parking brake and the "hump" in the trunk area
If anyone has done this upgrade, or has a used part available, PLEASE private message me!
I am totally cool with 6-12 hours of work, replacing some high-voltage wires, etc.
I just don't want to get there, and it be impossible.
Thanks!

2013 leaf 6.6kw S trim.
I might have to change my 6.6 kW onboard charger because the safety circuit got fried from the 400 volt 220 charger.
Is it possible that all I have to do is replace fuses or the printed circuit board?
Charging does not light up the charge lights. There is no 4 volts on the safety circuit. The car drives fine including regenerative braking.

sygall said:

2013 leaf 6.6kw S trim.
I might have to change my 6.6 kW onboard charger because the safety circuit got fried from the 400 volt 220 charger.
Is it possible that all I have to do is replace fuses or the printed circuit board?
Charging does not light up the charge lights. There is no 4 volts on the safety circuit. The car drives fine including regenerative braking.

Click to expand...

"400 volt 220 charger?" what kind of oxymoron is that?

2013 leaf 6.6kw S trim.
I might have to change my 6.6 kW onboard charger because the 220 volt Nissan charger, high voltage line connected (shorted) to the Pilot and/or proximity circuit and damaged to onboard charger.

Is it possible that all I have to do is replace fuses or the printed circuit board?

Charging does not light up the charge lights. There is no 4 volts on the safety circuit. The car drives fine including regenerative braking.


"400 volt 220 charger?" what kind of oxymoron is that?

sygall said:

2013 leaf 6.6kw S trim.
I might have to change my 6.6 kW onboard charger because the 220 volt Nissan charger, high voltage line connected (shorted) to the Pilot and/or proximity circuit and damaged to onboard charger.

Is it possible that all I have to do is replace fuses or the printed circuit board?

Charging does not light up the charge lights. There is no 4 volts on the safety circuit. The car drives fine including regenerative braking.


"400 volt 220 charger?" what kind of oxymoron is that?

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its actually "240"

Several instances only required a diode replacement. Mine went out (likely due to public charger...or just an interesting coincidence) and was replaced. Tech stated that Nissan wanted all failed unit for tear down and analysis. This was years ago. Unlikely they are still doing that since Gen 2 arrived.

With that little information on what happened, where was applied 400V, what diagnosis you did....

I cannot help!
And if 400V was applied on the control pilot.... Good luck, it is certainly more than just fuses.

gugusse said:

With that little information on what happened, where was applied 400V, what diagnosis you did....

I cannot help!
And if 400V was applied on the control pilot.... Good luck, it is certainly more than just fuses.

Click to expand...

This is not possible. Even if you took a J 1772 handle and put it on a 400 volt feed, the pilot wouldn't allow it to work anyway.

They might be referring to the 400 volt charger in the PDM and live in one of the countries with 220 volt mains ( 50 or 60 hz).

It would not surprise me if from time to time during charging and with a wet charge handle, some mains current leaks into one of the other circuits present in the handle. I think I had that failure in a charge handle about 7 years back--did a work around by adding one of those L2 extension cables,

sygall said:

I might have to change my 6.6 kW onboard charger because the 220 volt Nissan charger, high voltage line connected (shorted) to the Pilot and/or proximity circuit and damaged to onboard charger.

Is it possible that all I have to do is replace fuses or the printed circuit board?

Click to expand...

Zero chance that it's simple. Fuses, even so-called semiconductor fuses, are way too slow to prevent sensitive electronics from massive current overloads.

There will be no fuses in that part of the circuit anyway. Almost certainly, a good portion of your On Board Charger (the 220V AC in to 400V DC out converter) will be literally burned. The OBC is integrated into the Power Delivery Module in your model, so it's not even a single box that you can replace, unfortunately.

But it's possible that you could replace the OBC printed circuit board with one from a wrecker, say, if it's not VIN locked. I can't recall if the OBC is VIN locked or not in the Leaf. But you'd have to get right into the PDM with all that high voltage, high power cabling very nearby.

During an electrical incident at my house, 400V AC were applied to the wall charger. Luckily the car was not charging at that time.

The wall charger was trashed! The MOV and so many circuits where burnt or melted inside it.

If you have 3 phases in your house or neighbourhood, and you have a neutral breakdown (not sur the exact word in english) you will have between 0V and 400V applied on the power supply even if they are 230V line.

The insurance send an expert verifying what I declared and agreed on the bills I sent them for replacement (minus 25% but oh well).


Nothing happened to the car because it was not charging yet.


That's why it needs to be more precise, with more details!

PCB... top right... SMD's damaged by 220vac to the proximity and pilot wires.

sygall said:

PCB... top right... SMD's damaged by 220vac to the proximity and pilot wires.

Click to expand...

It doesn't look good. There was obviously quite high current, damaging at least one PCB track. That sort of current has a habit of damaging many components.

Unfortunately, this 6.6 kW On Board Charger looks rather different to the 3.6 kW model that the people over at myiMiEV.com have considerable experience with. My guess is that there will be no schematic available. There is a small chance that replacing the obviously damaged SMD parts and repairing the PCB track(s) might bring it back to life; personally I'd have a go at that. It might be difficult to read the value of the badly burned resistor, but a little tracing should be enough to guess what value it should be.

Otherwise, replacing the PCB with one from a breaker would be the best choice. A new charger or more likely the whole Power Delivery Module from Nissan would be prohibitively expensive, I imagine. There is unfortunately the chance that the board is VIN locked.

I appreciate you help.
My 2013 leaf 6.6kw S trim was not wired for CHADEMO) - PDM is 292C0 3NF2A
I Installed a used PDM Model 292C0 3NF3B (6kw) wired for CHADEMO.
Leaf is now stuck in neutral or park. On startup the sound of a pump? is heard for about 5 seconds. DTC error codes pictured

There is an interlock circuit on the PDM HV connector for the Chademo, which you don't have. So it's likely that the interlock is left open and this would throw a fault code(s).

i don't have a PDM or FSM for the 2013, but this is based upon my findings from dismantling and reverse engineering of the HVJB and OBC for the 2012.

i might consider putting a jumper across the interlock pins of the Chademo port of the PDM to test if the codes clear on their own. Or get a Chademo PDM connector from a salvage yard and just plug it in (the interlock jumper is built in to the connector).

[Thanks to sygall i found some info on the PDM connectors]

Here is the top level Vehicle Charging wiring diagram for the Chademo (Quick Charge QC) to the PDM:


This one show the interlock pins from the VCM 72,73 to the PDM 15,12 in the Green connector F23

Still looking for the HV wiring connector, it is not identified in this diagram, but this is where i would look for some interlock pins.



Maybe i found it, connector "H8" carries the HV wires from the Chademo port to the PDM, the interlock terminals are not identified but can be seen in the diagram.

P3180 is related to a fault from the LBC located inside the pack.

The other two P311C and P3176 codes are related to a HV error with numerous possible culprits to be checked, basically every load that connects to the HV is suspect: Heater, A/C Compressor, Motor Inverter