Ac charger not charging, not diode problem.

Long story short : Ac charger not charging, not diode problem

2011 24 kwh leaf with 3na7a on board charger, gen 1, in the back of the car.

- Ac charger not charging on lvl 1 or 2 on any charger. Tested many different chargers.
- Chademo still working and charging fine.
- 10 second and 3 flashes of leftmost ( if standing in front of the car ) light then a disconnect.
- Cleared dtcs on leafspy pro. Did not help.
- Soldered diode into control pilot. Did not help.
- 12v is fine.
- Opened obc and could not see any issues anywhere.
- dtcs are :

B29C1 236C Charger EVSE VC-98
and
P3173 00C0 EV/HEV On Board Charger Sys EVC-236

Please help me out.

I will now try to get the front circuit board replaced on the OBC. I hope i can buy this seperate.

Thank you in advance

It may be the diode problem if that diode failed open. Replacing or bypassing the diode on the circuit board would solve that problem.
Hope you are successful.

From the FSM,

The B29C1 code is related to an EVVSE failure that could be due to 5 possible conditions: an invalid PWM signal during charging; or an interrupted PWM signal; the AC power supply is not applied when commanded; the AC power remains connected after the stop command is issued; or AC is present before being commanded.

The P3173 code indicates that the OBC sent an error message over the CAN Buss to the VCM, and the troubleshooting involves using the Consult device for the following activities: to read and id the OBC by part number; read the OBC self-test results and freeze frame data recorded when the fault occurred; monitor the OBC input and output data; and perform an Active test by commanding Main contactors and relays related to the OBC to operate.

Additional diagnostics involve using the Consult tool to display the reference values for various signals, and then those actual physical signals (voltage or resistance) on the pins of the connectors can be probed with a voltmeter or oscilloscope to compare the waveforms with the expected reference values.

When you plug in the EVVSE, do you hear the car relays and contactors clacking sequence? do you then hear the relay in the EVVSE engage? After the 10 seconds time-out do you ever hear the EVVSE relay drop out?

When you press the release trigger on the handle do you hear anything on either side? And then when you withdraw the handle from the connector do you hear any relays. Trying to determine if the AC power is being requested and sent or not.

If AC is being requested and sent, but not starting the charging, then it's likely a fuse or blown component in the AC input section of the big power board on the bottom. If no AC is being sent then probably a missing communication signal or weak 12V is to blame.

Thank you for your reply nlspace

I appreciate your help immensely.

"The B29C1 code is related to an EVVSE failure that could be due to 5 possible conditions: an invalid PWM signal during charging; or an interrupted PWM signal; the AC power supply is not applied when commanded; the AC power remains connected after the stop command is issued; or AC is present before being commanded."

i have tested on 6 or more different ac chargers, lvl 1 and 2. I dont think that all of them, and the ones at the dealers suddenly all failed together. Also we have other evs charging successfully on those same chargers.

"The P3173 code indicates that the OBC sent an error message over the CAN Buss to the VCM, and the troubleshooting involves using the Consult device for the following activities:"

What is a Consult device ? i have my android with leafspy pro. i do have access to an oscilloscope and multimeters too though.

"to read and id the OBC by part number" from the leafspy i see : 3NA7A CHARGER 23511128077336 not sure if this is what you are referring to ?

" read the OBC self-test results and freeze frame data recorded when the fault occurred" : i take it this is with the consult device ?

"When you plug in the EVVSE, do you hear the car relays and contactors clacking sequence?" : yes

"do you then hear the relay in the EVVSE engage?" : yes

"After the 10 seconds time-out do you ever hear the EVVSE relay drop out?" i hear something in the car switch off again, and i think on the evse too.


"When you press the release trigger on the handle do you hear anything on either side?" no

" And then when you withdraw the handle from the connector do you hear any relays." : no

"If no AC is being sent then probably a missing communication signal or weak 12V is to blame." : I have added an additional strong lion 12v to supplement my lead acid 12v and also a dc power supply. I dont suspect at all that the 12 v gives too little voltage at this time. I have also properly charged the 12v several times and the problem persists.

Thank you in advance again.

What is a Consult device ?

Click to expand...

While you wait for nlspace, I can answer that: it's a diagnostic computerized tool available to Nissan technicians. There are a few around elsewhere, but not many, IIRC.

The B29C1 code can be thrown for those 5 conditions regardless if the fault is actually in the EVSSE or if the fault is on the car side--it's not smart enough to necessarily know where, it's just not getting the required signal.

If you added a diode on that pilot signal line (the PWM signal line) then you will have reduced the voltage getting to the control board of the OBC, which makes no sense. That is the error, a lack of signal. i don't recall exactly, but from the diode repair video it was a problem that the diode failed open such that the signal did not reach the microcontroller, wasn't that the case?

diode discussion thread: https://mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=30&t=24560&p=595319#p595319


the Consult device is the Nissan special diagnostic and troubleshooting tool used by the mechanics.

The Vehicle Charging section (VC) of the Factory Service Manual has the details of signals that can be measured at the connectors to help troubleshoot the issue. e.g. page VC-19 covers the Consult features, etc.

hannesbeukes said:

What is a Consult device ?

Click to expand...

Dealers use Nissan Consult III plus.
https://www.nissan-techinfo.com/dept.aspx?dept_id=25
https://www.aetools.us/products/nissan-consult-iii-plus/

Hi nlspace

Thank you for your reply angain.

We already removed the D547 diode from the board, tested it, (it works), and soldered it back.

Whether or not the diode on the control pilot is there, im getting the same exact issue. I was just following a few suggestions to do that.

I will now try again to measure the plug resistances to find out exactly what is going on.

LeftieBiker said:

What is a Consult device ?

Click to expand...

While you wait for nlspace, I can answer that: it's a diagnostic computerized tool available to Nissan technicians. There are a few around elsewhere, but not many, IIRC.

Click to expand...

Thank you. I will have to go back to nissan again. This is always an issue. I live in south africa.

This sounds like exactly what I am experiencing. My 2012 Leaf was working fine until one day I pulled out of the garage and noticed that it hadn't charged overnight. Assuming it was an error on my part, or a problem with the onboard timer, I hit the timer override button and plugged it back in. So far I've tried the factory 120V EVSE, and a 240V EVSE that I normally use. In either case, when I plug it in, everything seems fine. The car beeps, clunks, etc. like it always has. I get one light on the dashboard like it's starting to charge. There's a fan or something up under the front of the car, and then I hear a clunk-clunk from somewhere in the back, and it all stops.
I also get the B29C1 236C and the P3173 00C0 codes from the OBDII port reader.
I tried adding the diode to the J1772 port like I'd seen here in the forums because that was an easy thing to do and worth a try.
Thinking it had to be something in the onboard charger, I opened things up, and I even pulled both circuit boards out of the aluminum case for an electronics technician friend to look at. There were no obvious scorch marks, blown components, or evidence of magic smoke.
This is a great little car, and it perfectly meets our needs for an around-town grocery getter, even though it has about a 45 mile range max. That being said, I can't justify spending major dollars on a new onboard charger, especially when I'm not 100% sure if that's the problem. That "clunk-clunk" sound seems to be coming from under the car. Inside the traction battery housing maybe?
I also haven't tried getting it to a ChaDeMo charger yet, either. It's possible the DCFC system will work, isn't it?

I'm open to suggestions, feedback or guidance. Thanks, all.

Here are a few images.

witzend said:

That "clunk-clunk" sound seems to be coming from under the car. Inside the traction battery housing maybe?

Click to expand...

Yes, it will be the contactors dropping out. I'm 98% sure that the contactors are inside the battery housing.

I also haven't tried getting it to a ChaDeMo charger yet, either. It's possible the DCFC system will work, isn't it?

Click to expand...

Definitely. If the fault is in the on-board charger, then there is little to no reason for DCFC not to work. It's quite common for iMiEVs to be able to quick charge but not AC charge. Of course, they're not identical, but quite similar as far as charging goes.

From the FSM, The B277D HVAC code indicates a short in the heater temperature sensor circuit.

In the system description there is an operational mode for climate control timer function that is only active during charging when the EVSE is connected.

So i could imagine that an error in the HVAC system might be used as a trigger condition to prevent charging. If this is true then it might also prevent DCFC Chademo charging, so that would be an interesting test if you have enough range available to get to one and back home in case it fails to charge. The control lines for the DCFC reside in the OBC.

But the sensor issue might be easier to attack first.

The sensor can be disconnected and a resistor inserted across the connector terminal to simulate a temperature, e.g. 500 to 1000 Ohms corresponds to 104 to 68 F. Also the sensor resistance can be measured with a DMM and should fall in this same range.

With your clacking and blue light sequence for the EVSE session i would guess that the fault is not in the AC input section.

Since you had the cover off it is possible to make some diode function checks of the high power diodes and FETs just to check for possible damage in the waffle plate. Also you could verify that AC mains power is getting to the board. A fault in the waffle plate would shutdown a charging session, but there would be a DTC to indicate such a condition, e.g. incorrect PFC voltage. This would be found by doing the OBC self check as directed in the FSM, not much help unless you have Consult,

Perform the self-diagnosis of on-board charger.

Click to expand...

nlspace said:

But the sensor issue might be easier to attack first.

Click to expand...

The previous owner installed a switch for that well-known "heater hack". Perhaps that's the issue? I can remove it and restore normal factory operation to see if that helps.

nlspace said:

Also you could verify that AC mains power is getting to the board.

Click to expand...

So many wires in there! Any pinout or color code map to know what to check? =)

Right now, the car has 2 battery bars, and the guessometer says 13 miles range, so while I kind of want to try a ChaDeMo charger, I'm not sure I can get home again if it doesn't work. There aren't any super close by.

witzend said:

Right now, the car has 2 battery bars, and the guessometer says 13 miles range, so while I kind of want to try a ChaDeMo charger, I'm not sure I can get home again if it doesn't work. There aren't any super close by.

Click to expand...

Your profile doesn't include your location, but perhaps you are lucky enough to live within one of the areas served by SparkCharge. If so, you could have them deliver a CHADEMO portable charger to your home, to see if the LEAF will take a DC charge.

Also, you may be on to something RE the DIY heater switch:

https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=11412#p263356

Caution: You should avoid leaving the connection open or shorted out while the car is turned on. This will cause NO damage but it will log an error (DTC codes B277C or B277D). It may be just temporarily reported as a warning but it is unclear if it will automatically go away or if the car insists on this being cleared by a dealer. (EVSE DTCs for example just cause a display of the yellow warning symbol. This will automatically go away when the car is turned off and on again.)

Click to expand...

You could check the "heater fluid sensor plug" pictured in that post, to be sure that it's firmly connected - perhaps it came loose. You could also try using LeafSpy to clear all DTCs, unplug the 12V battery for 1/2 an hour, then see if that DTC comes back.

Hopefully it's just a faulty "hack" switch...

Aloha folks;

I'm also having charging issues. And a couple of members have reached out to me in terms of how to do the diode insertion.

So, I'm working through the diode possibility. Just waiting for it (diode) to arrive.

My symptoms are not charging on either Level II or QC.

My 2011 has been upgraded with Dala's Canbus so I can accommodate 62 kWh battery.

Here is the Leaf Spy output:

Any and all insights are welcome (I have reached out to Dala, haven't heard back yet).

With the diode issue, if memory serves, the stock Nissan EVSE will still work but not any other L2 EVSEs. Otherwise, the main discussion thread on the diode issue includes a YouTube video, where the guy explains step by step how to diagnose and confirm a diode issue.

If the diode failed closed (conducting in both directions), any EVSE that does not do the diode check will charge using L1 or L2. QC should still function.
L1 and L2 charging are not possible if the diode fails open. I don’t know if the QC will function in this case.

Follow up:

1) I forgot that Dala has a system for choosing the amount of battery % you want. I must have inadvertently set it low (a combination of fan speed + a/c/ off). So I reset it and the car is charging again.

2) It's still buggy and it needs about a 5 minute cool down after driving to charge at any rate.

3) Haven't tested QC.

4) I still intend to go ahead with diode fix when parts arrive.

Keep you all posted,

Aloha

Hi Leafers;

So first full charge after changing "Dala" charge % setting

236 (in Park/ D mode)

and

260 (in Eco) Mode

This still doesn't solve the having to wait 5 minutes before charging though... but range is back (for now!)

Aloha!