Leaf not starting or shifting out of Park all of a sudden

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beachyleaf

New member
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Jul 14, 2018
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1
https://m.imgur.com/gallery/nhfm8jX

All of a sudden today I've had problems trying to start my Leaf. It says press the brake down when I already am, and will not fully start and will not switch gears from Park into anything else. Then I turned it off and came back and tried again in 5 minutes, and it turned on normally. Went back in 30 min, same issue happened again! Is the 12v battery dying, or is it something more serious?
 
The 12 volt battery is the most likely culprit. The voltage, with the car off for at least 15 minutes, should read about 12.5 volts at the battery terminals. If it's below 12.2 volts the battery is undercharged or dying. If you leave the car plugged in for hours after charging ends, stop doing that. If the 12 volt battery is 5 years old or more, it should be replaced.
 
My 2019 Leaf had the “can’t shift out of Park” problem twice along with several episodes of warning lights and a depleted 12V battery. Rather than the 12V battery charging algorithm that is blamed often on this forum, it apparently was a wiring harness problem. I’ll update if the fix doesn’t work out. A summary follows:
• I had a few intermittent AEB and LDW warning lights in rainy, foggy weather (Western Washington in the winter).
• In the middle of a 2.5 hour drive in rain, I got the “Warning: T/M Vehicle System Malfunction Visit dealer” and master warning light. After 20 Hrs charging on 110V and rain ended, the warning lights were off. I was due for the first annual check-up and asked the Nissan dealer service rep to look at this issue and they came back saying there was no stored DTC and thus nothing they could do.
• A couple weeks later, had more AEB and LDW warning lights on my commute and left it parked in the rain all day, just above freezing. That night, the 12V battery appeared to be depleted (automatic door lock didn’t work, cabin light extremely dim, Leaf wouldn’t start). After getting a jump, everything worked, though I did get the “Warning: T/M Vehicle System Malfunction Visit dealer” on my way home.
• After researching this forum, I bought a BatteryMinder Plus 1510 and started monitoring the 12V system with a volt meter and Leaf Spy Pro.
• The morning after using the BatteryMinder for the first time, I got the “can’t shift out of Park” problem with “Warning: When Parked Apply Parking Brake”. I didn’t have time to deal with getting a tow out my garage in Park that morning. I took the BatteryMinder off and took alternate transportation. Returning that evening, the Leaf worked as if nothing had happened.
• Based on the Dealer previously not doing anything and this forum blaming the 12V charging algorithm, I continued driving the Leaf, monitoring voltage, and using BatteryMinder. When either 1) charging the traction battery, 2) Leaf is on, or 3) using BatteryMinder, I measured the same 14.4V or 13.4V, corresponding to absorption charging or float charging. With the Leaf off for more than 15 minutes, I got a healthy 12.5 V to 12.7V. So the 2019 Leaf 12V charging algorithm seemed fine. (Significantly better than old ICE charging with one voltage level while driving only.)
• The next near freezing rainy day, it was parked outside and late that night I got the “can’t shift out of Park” problem with “Warning: When Parked Apply Parking Brake”, AEB, and LDW lights. Nissan Roadside Assistance said response time would be a couple of hours. The 12V system voltage was 13.4V with the Leaf on, 12.5 with the Leaf off. I disconnected the 12V battery and everything worked after reconnecting, though I did get another “Warning: T/M Vehicle System Malfunction Visit dealer” on my way home.
• Next day, I drove to the dealer and there was no warning lights. The dealer replaced 24012-5SA1C HARNESS-ENGINE ROOM https://www.nissanpartsdeal.com/parts/nissan-harness-engine-room~24012-5sa1c.html. They also replaced connector E54 per Service Bulletin NTB19-054 (https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2019/MC-10163705-9999.pdf, https://www.carcomplaints.com/Nissan/Leaf/2019/tsbs/tsb-ntb19-054.shtml). It had P189A (Motor “A” Circuit Low) stored in DTC memory and terminals 1 and 2 of E54 were loose.
o NTB19-054 only says to replace the connector, so the Leaf technician may have seen other issues or have other reports to take the much more drastic step of replacing the $800 harness that took 3 full days of labor to install.
o It was all covered by warranty, so the only cost was having to drive a Versa ICE loaner for 13 days.
o Because the NTB19-054 issue leaves you stranded and difficult to get a tow while stuck in park (unless you know the trick and have the tools to disconnect/reconnect the battery), I think Nissan should upgrade it to a recall.
 
I've been through every version of this over the years in my 2014, but today is a new one for me. I have been using the car normally and have not had any problems for almost a year. Yesterday it gave me the classic weak battery no start. I charged it with my portable charger and it was fine. Today it won't shift into gear. Every idiot light comes on, the heater starts, the screen starts, but nothing. Then, after a few seconds, I hear a pop in the speakers and the center screen shuts off, and the clock resets to 1 am. I unhooked the battery and let it sit for 20 minutes, but had the same problem again. Now I have my trickle charger on it. I simply can't wait to sell this car.
 
DanDietrich said:
I've been through every version of this over the years in my 2014, but today is a new one for me. I have been using the car normally and have not had any problems for almost a year. Yesterday it gave me the classic weak battery no start. I charged it with my portable charger and it was fine. Today it won't shift into gear. Every idiot light comes on, the heater starts, the screen starts, but nothing. Then, after a few seconds, I hear a pop in the speakers and the center screen shuts off, and the clock resets to 1 am. I unhooked the battery and let it sit for 20 minutes, but had the same problem again. Now I have my trickle charger on it. I simply can't wait to sell this car.

Have you considered replacing the battery with an Optima Yellow Top battery and charging it every 3 months with an external charger so you don't have this problem again?

I agree that Nissan should fix this problem, but there's an inexpensive and mostly-pain free workaround (at least, less painful than being stranded) to deal with it. If you replace it with a standard 12V battery, you are likely to run into this issue every 1-2 years, although some people manage to go many years without an issue.
 
This subject line covers my problem so I'm not starting a new thread but my situation seems different and very specific. I have a 2011 first gen Leaf which has been working perfectly. I finally, finally got the nice WeatherTech mats to protect the floor. I guess it was sort of dark in the footwell so I didn't realize when I put the mat in the driver side it covered the gas pedal, basically flooring it. When I started the car to move it forward a few feet there was immediately a loud thump and hard pulse in the brake pedal and when I let up on the brake pedal it surged forward because of course it was floored. I immediately shut it off, not knowing what the issue was. I discovered the problem with the mat and freed the gas pedal. When I started it up next all the lights came on but no bars showed for the traction battery and the airbag light was flashing off and on. I can't release the parking brake and I can't shift into neutral to move the car. The dealer says to have the car towed in but I'm worried about having it dragged onto a flatbed truck while in park. I see in the manual I can release the parking brake through a port in the trunk but could pulling the car while in park damage the transmission? Is there a way to force it into neutral? The normal "hold the knob to the left" method currently does nothing. I think I still have the original 12v battery so I will check its voltage and try unhooking it for a while to see it that resets anything but thought I'd throw it out there to see if anyone some input. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lP527bEtJIfT9kpSVDA0MjcEMsPvGC2J/view?usp=sharing
 
badamsfx said:
The normal "hold the knob to the left" method currently does nothing. I think I still have the original 12v battery so I will check its voltage and try unhooking it for a while to see it that resets anything but thought I'd throw it out there to see if anyone some input. Thanks!

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1lP527bEtJIfT9kpSVDA0MjcEMsPvGC2J/view?usp=sharing
Just jump start it. If you're on your original 12 volt still, it's probably toast.

My used '13 Leaf's original 12 volt didn't even last 3 years. Was replaced for free under warranty. The replacement also didn't last long enough to make the "84 month" prorated warranty even worth it. It was cheaper for me to buy a replacement 12 volt from Costco than to go w/the prorated amount the dealer wanted to change it.

That said, it seems the MIJ Leafs (yours) had better 12 volt batteries and/or a better charging algorithm than the US-made ones.
 
I assume that you stopped the car immediately by reapplying the brake. That abrupt stop may have jostled a connection loose. Check the 12V battery connections and, as you said, its resting voltage.
The thump was probably due to overriding the Park setting Into Drive.
 
I see people stating that the battery will give problems after 2+ years.... And that people should put in Optima Deep Cycle Batteries...

I do not agree that you need to change to a really expensive battery or to change the Lead-Acid battery in your car after any specific time..

I have a 5+ year, original Nissan battery in mine, and I check it regularly with a Battery Tester. That is the only way to know when you need a new battery. I have had original batteries on cars that have lasted 8-9 years before changing them.

In addition, the Leaf does not need a great amount of "starting power" like regular cars....

I think people need to stop throwing $$$ at problems that have not yet happened, because after all, the lifetime of the Leaf is a short one. It really does not make sense to spend $350 on a battery for a car that you may not keep after 5 years of use???
 
powersurge said:
I see people stating that the battery will give problems after 2+ years.... And that people should put in Optima Deep Cycle Batteries...

I do not agree that you need to change to a really expensive battery or to change the Lead-Acid battery in your car after any specific time..

I have a 5+ year, original Nissan battery in mine, and I check it regularly with a Battery Tester. That is the only way to know when you need a new battery. I have had original batteries on cars that have lasted 8-9 years before changing them.

In addition, the Leaf does not need a great amount of "starting power" like regular cars....

I think people need to stop throwing $$$ at problems that have not yet happened, because after all, the lifetime of the Leaf is a short one. It really does not make sense to spend $350 on a battery for a car that you may not keep after 5 years of use???

I agree with most of what you're saying. However, I spent 40+ years in the VW/Audi community, ending with ownership of so-called "clean diesel" VWs. The incidence of failed 12V batteries with these cars (which admittedly are power hogs) was MUCH higher than I would expect.

I've come to the conclusion that 12V battery QC, across all brands (most are manufactured by a 2 or 3 companies), is very poor.

Yes, use the battery tester prior, to properly load-test the battery. Yes, if you are able, periodically use a Battery Tender Plus (or similar).

Most important, though, buy a battery with a legitimate warranty, NOT one that's pro-rated. Full replacement for 4 years, IMHO.
 
powersurge said:
I have had original batteries on cars that have lasted 8-9 years before changing them.
[edit]
It really does not make sense to spend $350 on a battery for a car that you may not keep after 5 years of use???

That might work in NY, but not in TX, FL...or almost anywhere else South of Kansas.
I spent $500 on a LiFePO4 battery and am going on 7 years (on the battery...not just the car) without any "stranded/failed to start" incidents.
There are tons of 12v battery threads on this site, so don't pollute this one with bad advice.

I think @badamsfx may have a real/different problem and should probably have started another thread.
 
I live in a somewhat colder part of NY than Powersurge, and I find 7 years to be a good long life for a 12 volt battery. I wouldn't recommend that people keep them past 5 years, though. Too much potential for problems as the accessory battery fails.
 
Powersurge's advice is regionally appropriate, but yes, LeftieBiker, for sure, 5 years is pushing it.

VW/Audi techs (HAHAHA!!! I needed to get to know SEVERAL) always said the same thing. After 3 years, you're pushing your luck, and it's...just...not...worth...the inconvenience of a failed battery, when the replacement is $120-150. (...and YES, I KNOW...we're talking LEAF, not VW/Audi)

Combined with battery QC issues, solving electrical issues can be a nightmare.
 
Thank you all for your advice. Indeed my problem turned out to be the 12v battery. It just seemed so odd that it worked fine and then ten minutes later it failed after my gas pedal mishap. When I tested the battery out of the car it read 9.24v. I charged it up and put it back in and the car started fine. Interestingly I left the hood open but wanted to test that it would go into gear so I tried D and R and both times it immediately flashed a message that said "Shift into P!" so I'm wondering if there is a hood open sensor? The only issue is I can't seem to get the clock back on the center display but I can fiddle with that later. I intend to get the 12v battery tested. Is it worth it to buy my own tester? I have three cars and several motorcycles so it seems like it would be a handy tool to have.
 
Don't do anything further with that 12 volt battery other than replace it. If it's old it's completely beyond saving, and if it's newer it's been severely damaged by being so low. If you can afford a size 51R AGM battery, get one - they tolerate being deeply discharged better than do starting batteries. If you can't afford one, get a starting battery with a great warranty, as you may need it in the future. Make sure the new battery is fully charged before it is installed. Some shops don't bother to do that, as it isn't needed with most gas cars.

There is no hood open sensor. Hopefully the 'shift into P' warning is a residual symptom of low accessory battery voltage. You may need to clear some codes, or have a shop do it. If not you may need something like a shift position sensor or linkage. I've seen that message before, but can't recall at the moment what it usually indicates as the problem.
 
badamsfx said:
I intend to get the 12v battery tested. Is it worth it to buy my own tester? I have three cars and several motorcycles so it seems like it would be a handy tool to have.

Some people just don't get it...even after "dodging a bullet".
Replace the 12v battery!
 
Analogy: you accidentally run your lawn mower out of oil, and it seizes. You pour oil in the spark plug hole as well as the crankcase, and amazingly, it starts again, but blows blue smoke and makes a funny noise as it runs. Do you keep using it, or replace it?
 
The "Shift Into P" message will pop up if the driver door is opened while the car is in D or R so it is not indicative of a problem--just a safety feature or liability limitation attempt by Nissan.

Edited to add: I just tried opening the driver door on the 2019--"Shift Into P Range" message will pop up unless it is in P. It pops up with car in N even with parking brake set and also in D, B, or R.
 
Stanton said:
badamsfx said:
I intend to get the 12v battery tested. Is it worth it to buy my own tester? I have three cars and several motorcycles so it seems like it would be a handy tool to have.

Some people just don't get it...even after "dodging a bullet".
Replace the 12v battery!

Fear not, dear reader, I fully intend to replace the battery though as a curious person I'm interested to know how "used up" it reads on a tester. I will get an Optima yellow top based on the recommendations here. I don't mind paying the premium as I'm keeping this car forever. Surveying battery testers online for home use prices varied from $40 to $500. I will need to research more deeply before making a decision on what to get. Regarding my issue with the clock not showing up on the center console, it did pop on after I drove for a few minutes. I'm guessing it actually gets the time using the telematics system so it needed to connect before the clock would appear. The owner manuals don't mention anything about that but the fact that the clock time manipulators are "offsets" indicates that the time is coming from somewhere else.
 
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