https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2020/ ... 0-0001.pdf says that the 30 kWh pack was discontinued.
I would ignore the GOM, the silly numbers on the right side of the dash that claims "miles". Instead, use the % state of charge dash display or better yet, use Leaf Spy's smarter GOM where you can input/adjust your miles per kWh and threshold (e.g. LBW, VLBW, 5% or whatever).
Since you have Leaf Spy, I would look for signs of a bad cell/module similar to https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=21700. At say 20ish to 40ish % SoC, I wouldn't expect your max delta of lowest to highest voltage to be above 30ish or 40ish mV. If it's above 100 mV, something is wrong.
You can also Google for site:mynissanleaf.com cvli. The voltages will likely be different for a 30 kWh pack vs. a 24. Hope the dealer does the CVLI test.
Since your profile says Livermore, it gets blazing hot there in the summer. And your sig says "Always charged to 100%", so neither of those help. For those not familiar w/Livermore, viewtopic.php?p=533224#p533224 can give one an idea of the temps on hot days in the summer (e.g. 107 F for a high in Livermore vs. 95 F in San Jose vs. 62 F in San Francisco). That's an extreme for microclimates. The unusual case would be 107 F in Livermore but 80ish to maybe even 90 F in SF. It rarely gets to 90 F in SF let alone much above 80ish..
Unless there's a bad cell or module, nothing will be done to help you (other than the above update) until you're down to 8 capacity bars.
Of course not. Nissan has never (AFAIK) released any public documentation of anything that Leaf Spy renders. It's not their tool. One can only compare notes here about when people tend to lose another bar. See my comments and links at viewtopic.php?p=579357#p579357 for some historical background.
Good thing is that 30 kWh packs have 8 year/100K mile capacity warranties. Once you hit 8 bars, so far, it seems likely you'll receive a new 40 kWh pack.