mitrals
Posts: 123
Joined: Tue Aug 18, 2015 11:03 am
Delivery Date: 15 Jun 2019
Location: Chicago IL

Re: 2013 SL PTC replacement (DTC Codes B2773/B2774)

smooveride wrote: Sun Aug 22, 2021 6:02 am HI All.. just checked back on this, sorry for the delay!

I got my brand new PTC heater from an online seller for about $700 total. It was not packaged all that well, and when I pulled it out of the box, one of the plastic mounting tabs on the side had broken off. I sent it back, and they are sending me a new one out. I'll report back on here after I get the repair done..
Thanks for the update. My local Nissan dealer has it for 560. Please document your process so I can give it to my mechanic.
Current car:
2016 Nissan Leaf SV

Previous electric cars:
2012 Leaf SL. 9 Bars 50K miles - 06/15/2019
2018 Honda Clarity Plug in Touring- Bought 04/26/19
2013 Leaf SV. Bought with 11 bars and 4K miles.
2013 Cmax Energi.
2013 Fusion Energi Titanium.
smooveride
Posts: 12
Joined: Tue Jul 13, 2021 5:32 am
Delivery Date: 13 Jul 2021

Re: 2013 SL PTC replacement (DTC Codes B2773/B2774)

Finally.. I got around to doing this. This was not an easy DIY, but not impossible with the right tools. This took me about 4 hours. This is for the US market, left hand drive version. I have a 2013 with the heat pump and PTC heater (which coded as B2773 and B2774). I bought a new PTC heater online (part number: 27143-3NF1B) for about $700USD. The links below all provide good info, but nothing is complete. I did not have to drill any holes, or otherwise cause any damage. You will have to bend a metal support for the glove box to access the heater, then bend back into place. Sorry for no pics, but the links below should be enough for you…

DISCLAIMER: This worked for me and my car, follow this at your own risk. You are working with very high voltage and this will kill you if you are not careful.

Tools you’ll need:
Class 0 rubber gloves (for use any time when touching HV plugs)
metric socket set and extensions
T20 Torx socket (preferably 1/4” drive)
T30 Torx security socket (preferably 1/4” drive)
various plastic auto trim tools and metal plug removal tool (U shaped pry tool)
soldering gun and/or crimp tool


Turn car off, wait 10 mins.. make sure keys are not nearby or in your pocket
disconnect 12v negative terminal
wait 10 minutes
disconnect HV plug, re-cover using the top plastic cover for protection
wait 10 minutes
Car is now safe to work on.

Remove passenger seat and move back (I did not disconnect the wires)
remove center console using steps in ‘IP’ instrument panel, body interior from the online Leaf service manuals
https://www.nicoclub.com/nissan-service-manuals

remove glovebox (I cleaned out the cabin filter while I was down there) link below..
remove plastic trim below glovebox from metal support (push up from bottom and out)
you can bend the metal support in and up towards you at this point and it will make the rest of these steps much easier… or you can wait like I did and make it harder on yourself.

you will need to ‘flex out’ the plastic trim to access the screws as well as remove and replace the heater. I managed to do this while not cracking or damaging the plastic. I’d do this while it’s warm/hot out, and the more you flexed it, the easier it got.

remove small 90 degree duct (two tabs on top)
remove side duct (3 screws, top one is hidden and hard to see)
remove metal protection plate, the bottom torx bolt has one of the ground wires connected to it. (4 bolts)

at this point, only 2 screws hold in the heater on either side. i would recommend jacking up the car and removing the upper mid belly pan to access the HV plug for the heater. some folks say you can get your hand down in the hole to unplug/plug the heater from above. i found this to be impossible to do. this only took a few minutes to drop the belly pan and put it back on, and it was very easy to access the plug.

once the HV plug is out, cut the long ground wire that goes up into the dash. you are going to cut off the long wire on your new heater and solder/connect these two wires together as in one of the video links. make sure to give yourself plenty of slack from each to make sure they are not too short.

Remove and replace the PTC heater. Solder/connect the long ground wire and heat shrink protect it.
Plug in HV plug for heater under the car, replace belly pan.

reverse the steps from above. make sure to connect the short ground wire back on the bottom of the shield/metal plate.

plug in HV plug
reconnect 12v negative terminal on the battery

I ran the defrost while monitoring the power usage. It shot up to over 3 KWh while the heater kicked on, but you could feel hot air (not warm) coming up from the vents… and more importantly, no codes!


I used the links below for help on this job. Good luck!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VnHtlzHoqpY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GhtRv93l-5o

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6SwES6OAVo&t=11s

https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipP ... hFNndkMWNR
Bofett
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Jan 18, 2022 12:39 pm
Delivery Date: 18 Jan 2015

Re: 2013 SL PTC replacement (DTC Codes B2773/B2774)

Just did this on Saturday, took a few hours. The information above was paramount in the process.

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