Driver Door Handle Problem

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I used the original 2-part JB Weld epoxy which has a higher strength rating, but the urethane type mentioned in the post above might be better because it might remain a bit flexible. The main thing is to mix up plenty of material so it fills all of the voids between the metal and plastic. I wiped off the excess that squeezed out after applying zip ties to secure the plastic handle. That reduced the need to sand, scrape, grind the excess material away after it cured. Make sure you leave the zip ties in place until the epoxy has fully cured.
 
Thanks for the tips. I will certainly try to get any excess off before it cures since I hate sanding, scraping, etc. I have just about every solvent possible in my garage since I get them free at the local hazardous waste facility where they 'recycle' half full containers of stuff people bring in. Best case, a simple paper towel will do the trick. I have lots of zip ties and clamps and I plan to try a dry run to see what works best before putting on the epoxy.
 
Status Update: that JB Weld suggestion is spot on. I applied it both on the top and the bottom of the lock, and then held it in place with an adjustable wrench clamping down onto a sock (to protect the finish). It has been a bunch of time since i did that, and so far, absolutely perfect. The JB Weld also worked on the hatchback grab handle.

Additionally, I have since changed how I open the door. Instead of putting my hand into a backwards "C" and pulling, I know put my hand into a "l" shape and then pull towards me. That means that I am now opening the door via the backside black part instead of tugging on the silvery top+front+bottom part.
 
+1. Mine has been totally solid for the last few months. It will be interesting to see how it handles the winter but so far, so good.
 
My driver's door handle split apart last week. The plasti-chrome outer 1/2 cover has a snap tab that inserts into the black plastic back-handle to lock those halves together. That tab broke off. I used liberal amounts of JB Weld epoxy for plastics (black, 2-part urethane) in the void near the broken tab. The leftovers in the mixing tray dried slightly flexible and can't pull it apart. See how that holds up.
 
rogersleaf said:
My driver's door handle split apart last week. The plasti-chrome outer 1/2 cover has a snap tab that inserts into the black plastic back-handle to lock those halves together. That tab broke off. I used liberal amounts of JB Weld epoxy for plastics (black, 2-part urethane) in the void near the broken tab. The leftovers in the mixing tray dried slightly flexible and can't pull it apart. See how that holds up.
The JB Weld plastic epoxy I used did not survive the last couple ice storms. Today cleaned that out and separated the handle to a much sharper angle to gain better working access. This time used liberal amounts of an elastomeric sealant as the glue, and applied it under the entire length of the handle cover for better grip area. I've used this sealant before to fix body seams on my Ridgeline. It basically cures as a rubber. It will take a few days to fully cure so have this held together with a wrap of electrical tape as a clamp. I also purchased tiny stainless steel screws that could be counter-sunk drilled into the top and bottom of the cover to act as dowel pins but stopped short of installing them. I want to see if the sealant holds before poking holes in the chrome handle cover.
 
I drilled a hole from the bottom and put in a machine screw. It's held up well over the past fall and winter. I tried JB weld several times and it eventually came loose.
 
I don't suppose anyone has a picture of the screw method. I am on my second JB weld and both popped loose again this winter. When it was apart I am not sure what the screw could screw in to to hold it?
 
AthensGA1 said:
After replacing my door handle last week on my 2015, I got a I-Key System Error. I have had no issues with the car since new. It has 14700 miles on it. They told me warranty is over because it’s from the date of being built. (Crap warranty) This is my second leaf and I love them as a second vehicle. So I went and got the OBD2 and downloaded LeafSpy and I’ll admit it’s a cool ap, what does all that mean? I downloaded the DTC’s and OMG! 23 of them. Yes I unplugged battery a total of two times in a two week period. Still the same. I bought the obd to clear out the DTC’s but then I read more and It’s not recommended. I had my 12v battery replaced about 10months ago and let me tell you, you will know when it’s bad. The whole car freaks out. I did test my 12 volt battery and it’s at 12.8 volts. I hooked charger on it walked away checked on it and charger said full. Not sure if it topped it off or if anything at all. So any advise would be great.
Thanks!
All you need to do is swap the sensor (blue connector) with old handle to the new. It's in between the two halves, remove the screw in the back to separate, then pull the wires to the center where the connector body can slide through. It’s coded to your car, annoying I know…
 
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