Driver Door Handle Problem

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My handle just popped off slightly today for the first time after my car was sitting with the sun on the side in 90+ heat. I think I'll try some sort of gooey cement such as Shoe-Goo or Barge. I have plenty of epoxies but I don't think they'll hold well to the smooth plastic surface and I don't want to try to get in there to roughen them up. It's only happened once and if I hadn't read this thread I probably wouldn't have noticed.

I'm a week past 3 years since my in-service date but my mileage is about 20.5k. I assume the 3 year/36k mile warranty is the lesser of the two, right?
 
goldbrick said:
I'm a week past 3 years since my in-service date but my mileage is about 20.5k. I assume the 3 year/36k mile warranty is the lesser of the two, right?
It is is whichever comes first, so you're out of warranty.
 
I don't think Shoe-Goo will be strong enough, but let us know how it works out if you use it. The JB Weld was still holding when I traded my 2015 in for the new car except that the plastic door handle was flexing a bit in the heat making it seem like the epoxy was coming loose. I was careful to avoid getting the JB Weld close to the button so the back of the plastic could still flex. Later posts described gluing the very back of the handle in addition to the main part (just avoid getting glue close to the button) so that would have kept the plastic from flexing.
 
I have a 2016 SL purchased in 2019. It has the problem of the outer plastic part of the door handle coming loose. If I remember to put my hand in the loop and pull carefully, it doesn't come apart. Had it in to the body shop when I first got it, but decided it was too expensive to bother with at the time.

I might try JB Weld sometime. Thanks.
 
ElectricEddy said:
Chmdoman said:
Our Nissan Leaf 2015 door handle started getting loose until the lock literally popped out of its hole. I did some reasearch and found it’s easy to fix with a Torx25 driver. It appears Nissan did not lock tight this screw and it backs out over time. The dealer quoted me $50 parts + $350 labor to fix! The parts are fine and it’s took 1 min to fix, I made a YouTube video showing how.
https://youtu.be/7DRdfOYu8Bo

I tried and got three full turns on both passenger doors ( driver's both ok)
Thanks for the quick fix as both those handles would have loosened.
Great first post :)
I actually used a Torx 27 , maybe they increased the size?
Just FYI, I've found that a Torx T30 bit fits best, on my 2016 S.

(Apologies for resurrecting such an old thread.)
 
I often find myself using a smaller Torx bit than the actual size - they are unusually flexible that way, as long as you aren't trying for lots of torque...
 
GerryAZ said:
I don't think Shoe-Goo will be strong enough, but let us know how it works out if you use it. The JB Weld was still holding when I traded my 2015 in for the new car except that the plastic door handle was flexing a bit in the heat making it seem like the epoxy was coming loose. I was careful to avoid getting the JB Weld close to the button so the back of the plastic could still flex. Later posts described gluing the very back of the handle in addition to the main part (just avoid getting glue close to the button) so that would have kept the plastic from flexing.

I bought a 2 owner 2015 (owned in GA and TN) the handle looks like first or second owner might have tried some sort of glue. I just ordered some
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml to see if I can redo the prior attempt.

or maybe I'm wrong and it's factory glue, but it seems to be an uneven edge. I guess I should take some pictures before I change it up.
 
dhanson865 said:
.....or maybe I'm wrong and it's factory glue, but it seems to be an uneven edge. I guess I should take some pictures before I change it up.
On my Leaf anyway, the factory didn't use glue but rather a thin strip of double-sided tape, like the 1/2" W yellow packaging Scotch tape that comes in a dispenser like the single-sided red or green Scotch tape.
Kind of cheap IMO for the chrome part of a door handle to simply be held by some adhesive tape!
I can't remember the brand of glue I used but mine has remained stuck since gluing it.
 
I used clear JB weld and it lasted about a year before they started popping off again. Now it is kind of a mess and I am not sure how to clean it out to get it to fit back tight again. I might have to take the whole handle apart and clean it out...
 
BrockWI said:
I used clear JB weld and it lasted about a year before they started popping off again. Now it is kind of a mess and I am not sure how to clean it out to get it to fit back tight again. I might have to take the whole handle apart and clean it out...

I have the exact same issue. My JB Weld gave out also. I have no clue how to get the handle apart though.
 
I used the gray JB Weld on my 2015 door handle. The clear has a lower strength rating and I have not had success using it for other repairs (lasts a while, as you found) so I no longer use it. In order to get the door handle off, you must take it loose from the inside (take the inside panel off, disconnect wires and mechanism).
 
This is starting to happen on my 2017 Leaf as well, on the driver's door handle. The chrome is pulling out away from the inner black plastic. The knob button still always works.

From a quick glance, it looks like the double sided sticky tape just is not sticky (at least on the top side) anymore. Is the JB weld still the best solution?
 
tomw said:
Some people are reporting that JB is failing after a while.
Did they use the clear or grey? According to GerryAZ a few posts pack, the clear has lower strength so he suggested one sticks with the grey and I'd have to agree. With other similar products I've used the clear seems to sacrifice strength for clearness.
 
BrockWI said:
I can confirm the clear didn't hold up and now it is a mess inside the handle. Not sure what I am going to try next.
The problem is that the metal trim and the plastic handle have different expansion rates. That's why Nissan used urethane tape in the first place. You can purchase double sided high bond urethane tape on line. Make sure it's the ultrathin stuff and not the thicker tape used for side trim. Polyurethane construction adhesive might work as it has a little give even when set.
 
dhanson865 said:
GerryAZ said:
I don't think Shoe-Goo will be strong enough, but let us know how it works out if you use it. The JB Weld was still holding when I traded my 2015 in for the new car except that the plastic door handle was flexing a bit in the heat making it seem like the epoxy was coming loose. I was careful to avoid getting the JB Weld close to the button so the back of the plastic could still flex. Later posts described gluing the very back of the handle in addition to the main part (just avoid getting glue close to the button) so that would have kept the plastic from flexing.

I bought a 2 owner 2015 (owned in GA and TN) the handle looks like first or second owner might have tried some sort of glue. I just ordered some
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml to see if I can redo the prior attempt.

or maybe I'm wrong and it's factory glue, but it seems to be an uneven edge. I guess I should take some pictures before I change it up.

https://imgur.com/a/x9DvoQ5 shows the stuff I assume is from the prior owners attempt at gluing it in place.

I just puts gobs of that J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black in place and zip tied it with 3 straps. I guess I'll find out tomorrow how my door behaves and how much gunk spilled out the back side of the handle. I was quite liberal with the goo, hoping to fill gaps and bond to larger surfaces since the original seemed to barely make contact.
 
dhanson865 said:
dhanson865 said:
GerryAZ said:
I don't think Shoe-Goo will be strong enough, but let us know how it works out if you use it. The JB Weld was still holding when I traded my 2015 in for the new car except that the plastic door handle was flexing a bit in the heat making it seem like the epoxy was coming loose. I was careful to avoid getting the JB Weld close to the button so the back of the plastic could still flex. Later posts described gluing the very back of the handle in addition to the main part (just avoid getting glue close to the button) so that would have kept the plastic from flexing.

I bought a 2 owner 2015 (owned in GA and TN) the handle looks like first or second owner might have tried some sort of glue. I just ordered some
J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black - 25 ml to see if I can redo the prior attempt.

or maybe I'm wrong and it's factory glue, but it seems to be an uneven edge. I guess I should take some pictures before I change it up.

https://imgur.com/a/x9DvoQ5 shows the stuff I assume is from the prior owners attempt at gluing it in place.

I just puts gobs of that J-B Weld 50139 Plastic Bonder Body Panel Adhesive and Gap Filler Syringe - Black in place and zip tied it with 3 straps. I guess I'll find out tomorrow how my door behaves and how much gunk spilled out the back side of the handle. I was quite liberal with the goo, hoping to fill gaps and bond to larger surfaces since the original seemed to barely make contact.

OK, had to cut the zip ties off with a razor blade, couldn't get scissors in to cut them. Had gobs of J-B weld on the outside and inside of the handle. Used the razor blade to scrape most of it off the outside where it was thin, on the inside it was more runs (no drip, but thick runs). I took sandpaper and ran it on the inside of the handle to smooth out the runs some. It's essentially a textured grip now instead of a smooth inside handle. Door button still works and door opens easily. I'll call it a success I suppose.
 
Thanks for the report. My handle has been loose for about 18 months so I just put in an order for some of the JB Weld stuff. I'm going to try to get it done before the weather turns cold.
 
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