120-to-240 Adapter Kit (Rev 1)

[garygid]

This first post is an incomplete overview of the "120-to-240 Adapter Kit" (Rev 1), including a simple Neon 240v-Present Indicator, but no Buzzer.

The main wiring and the use of two AC 120v-coil relays for safety has few options.

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NEW: The "240-Stubby" version uses an output "pigtail" with an in-line L6-20R connector ... instead of a wall-socket L6-20R "inside" the box.

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The next post will contain a detailed Parts List for this specific Kit and links to most sources.

The 3rd post is possible Assembly Instructions for the Kit.

The 4th post will cover Tools, etc.

LEGAL WARNING: Use the information in this thread ENTIRELY at your OWN RISK. There might be mistakes or omissions. If you are not competent to evaluate AND attempt this project, get professional help.

[garygid]

Parts List for 120-to-240 Adapter Kit (Rev 1): (not yet complete)

("240-Stubby" uses a pigtail with a molded, in-line L6-20R rather than a wall-socket L6-20R.)

1. Project Box: a standard 2-wide? electrical enclosure/junction box, plastic.
Mayby 1-wide will be sufficient for "Stubby".

2. Receptacle: L6-20R, it should include mounting screws. For "Stubby", use an L6-20R "pigtail" instead.

3. Cover for box (#1) with circular cutout for the socket (#2). "Stubby" does not require the socket-mounting hole. It should include mounting screws.

4. 120v Connection Cords: Two short cords (very short for "Stubby"), or one short and one long, with a molded 5-15P connector, round cable, at least 12/3 wire, suitable for at least 16 amps. Stubby might "allow" 14/3 wire, since the stubs are only a few inches long. We will just use the male 5-15P ends for this project.

5. Relays: Two 120v AC coil, ... I will copy link and part number from other thread. About $6 to $10 each.

6. Spade Lugs: We need ten, four to connect to each of the two Relays, and two to connect the In-to-Out Grounds.

Note: Two different spade sizes (six 0.250 and four 0.125) are probably needed (check the selected Relays). Also, crimp-tubes sized for the wires being used: three bigger to crimp two incoming-size wires, 7 medium to crimp one I/O wire.

7. 240v Neon Indicator: With resistor, already in through-panel housing, with two wires attached. Just over $2 ($2.22).
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/produc ... B100000001

8. Wire: Two 4-to-6-inch pieces of insulated, stranded wire (like the "input" wire. Then, (not needed for "Stubby"), two 6-inch pieces of insulated, solid, 12-gauge wire.

9. Through-wall cable clamps: Two (three for "Stubby") circular "waterproof" cable gasket/clamps, to fit the two Input (and one Output, for "Stubby") cords being used. About $3 each?

NOTE: No solder necessary, all connections are crimped with insulated connectors.

[garygid]

Assembly Instructions: (not yet complete)

(In some version of the Kit, some of these
steps might already be completed.)

1. Punch (or drill) two holes for the 120v cords to enter the box
(for "Stubby", one more to exit the box), through suitable circular
cable clamps. Install the 2 (or 3) clamps, loosely.

2. If needed/desired, holes for mounting the 2 Relays. Most likely one relay
will fit on either side of the L6-20R receptacle. For Stubby, the two relays can probably fit in a smaller box, if desired for compactness.

3. Drill a hole, probably in the side of the box (top for Stubby) for the Neon Indicator housing. Make sure that there is sufficient clearance inside the box, around the other components, for the "long" body of the Indicator.

4. 120v-Input Grounds: Connect both together to the Green terminal of the L6-20R socket. For Stubby, the two grounds crimp into one female spade lug, and the outgoing Ground crimps into a mating male spade lug.

5. 120v-Input Neutral Leads: Strip and crimp on (securely) an insulated female "narrow" spade lug. Connect the spade lug to one side of the Relay Coil.

6. Do the same (#5) with the other 120v-Input Neutral wire.

7. 120v "Hot" Lead: It goes two places: indirectly to one side of the relay coil (low current) and directly to the N.O. (Normally Open) contact of the Relay (high current). Strip and put the "Hot" wire AND a the short, similar wire in a suitable insulated female "wide" spade lug, and crimp securely. This lug plugs onto the N.O. Relay contact. Crimp a 2nd "narrow" lug onto the other end of the short wire, which plugs into the remaining Relay-Coil contact.

8. Do this again (#7) for the other 120v "Hot" wire, connecting to the other Relay.

9. Using a short piece of suitable insulated Solid wire, strip both ends, one end suitable to attach to a "Hot" terminal on the L6-20R socket, and the other end suitable for a "wide" Female Spade Lug. (For "Stumpy", use the stripped end of the outgoing wire.) Add one of the small-gauge "240v Indicator" wires to this wire in the crimp-barrel of a "wide" spade Lug, then crimp them securely, and plug the spade lug onto the "common" contact of the Relay.

10. Do the same thing (#9) with the other Relay and remaining 240v Indicator wire.

11. Adjust the components, cables, and connections into their final positions. Tighten the two (three for "Stubby") cable clamps to SECURELY hold the cables in place.

12. Double-Check every connection very carefully, for correct placement/connection, solidity of the crimp and spade connection, and that parts inside the box CANNOT touch anything that they shouldn't touch.

13. Cut a suitable hole (probably 1 and 9/16 inch diameter), if necessary, in the "lid" of the box. (Not necessary for "Stumpy".)

14. Securely connect the L6-20R receptacle's 2 "Hot" wires, and mount the socket in the box. (This step is not needed for "Stumpy".)

15. Mount the Lid.

16. Test ... CAREFULLY.

[garygid]

Tools: (incomplete)

1. Screwdriver(s):

2. Crimp Tool: Inexpensive at Lowes or similar hardware store.

3. Wire Stripper:

4. Pliers: ...

5. Hammer: ...

6. Drill: Drill motor and drill bit to make hole for Indicator mounting,
and possibly some holes for mounting the two Relays.

[garygid]

All suggestions welcome.
I am trying to keep this very simple to construct.

[lincomatic]

How about using a neon lamp instead of an LED? No messy diodes & resistors to deal with. Just plug n play. For instance:

http://www.skycraftsurplus.com/250vneon ... lamps.aspx

You can get them in all shapes ... maybe a round one would be easier to install.

[davewill]

How about using a neon lamp instead of an LED?

That was Phil's suggestion.

...FYI: for the light you can order a simple Neon 240v pilot light and save yourself the complexity of the LED implementation. Here's a cheap one from Newark:


-Phil

[garygid]

Yes, Phil, a very good suggestion.

That part makes the Kit a lot easier to build.

I modified the Parts List and Assembly.

[pii100]

I used one 25ft extension cord, cut it in half and replaced the female connector with a 5-15p. I used a 4X4X2 PVC junction box from Lowes for the enclosure. Ill post my parts list, links and some photos later. Total cost was around 60 dollars. I had to drill two 3/4" holes for the cord grips, a 1/2" for the neon pilot light and a 1.5" hole for the L6-20.

[pii100]