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If I understand correctly you want to replace the Leaf's 12v with a larger 12v and use that to run run the inverter and possible smaller 120vac heater for the cabin while still charging that from the big traction battery? That won't get you any more range than stock because essentially the...

I copied this from my other post but I think it applies here as well. I have the 2013 S that still had a resistive heater (the SL & SV went to heat pumps in 2013). I am not suggesting this, but I had a 8A8D 12v AGM rated at 250A @ 12v or about 2kWh useable. That powered a 2000w pure sine wave...

That is really strange. My only guess is if your 12v has a loose connection and maybe it vibrated or bounced enough to disconnect for a second that might explain it. It won't "restart" while in gear or neutral, it wants to be in park but I wouldn't recommend putting it in park while your...

The 11 & 12 don't have a heat pump, just a resistive heater and that heater is on the high voltage side. However the fans and some of the pumps are on the 12v side. I have the 2013 S that still had a resistive heater (the SL & SV went to heat pumps in 2013). I am not suggesting this, but I...

We had the same unit and the same thing happen to ours after about 2 years. After talking with Clipper Creek they sent me a new one and returned the existing one once I swapped them out. If I recall correctly it was an overly sensitive ground fault sensor on the control board. Then 2 years...

I haven't figured it out on ours, still happens to us every month or so. I have noticed that when I have it set tot charge to 100% it is way less likely to have a dead 12v for us. I am guessing this is just becasue the 12v has a longer time to charge, including the tapering at the end of the...

Hmmm, I have never heard of a 16v battery in a Tesla, I have worked on the Y, 3, & S and all have had standard flooded lead acid 12v aux batteries. I haven't seen one, but have heard they are switching over to Li-Ion 12v in newer vehicles. I know one of the catch's with at least the model 3 is...

I just ran across a look at the Bolt compared to the Leaf. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gd_XNwNiTio

From the reviews it says it shuts off if overloaded. Say you didn't have the car in ready mode, just in "aux" mode and turned some 12v stuff on, it could trip off and then you would have 0v and no way to start the Leaf except jump starting it which sounds like it resets the controller back on...

My concern with the amazon battery listed above is it looks like it has a 250w or 20 amp charge controller. While most likely that would be ok if you go over that it looks like the controller shuts it down. I haven't checked but I would think you could pull closer to 50 amps with everything...

The problem is the Bestech 1200w version is modified sine wave, while that may work with most things, I would rather know it is pure sine wave and works with anything I can plug into it. I have found more and more small electronics get really hot on modified sine wave and just stopped buying...

The Ampeak one you link to looks good. I don't have personal experience with it, but it has solid reviews. For a smaller inverter I use Bestech 1000w unit, amazon.com/gp/product/B07XYR1BS3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and never had any issues with it. I like the for...

I really like the Michelin Crossclimate 2's, the closest to a winter tire you can run all year and are actually low rolling resistance tires, but they are not the cheapest tires...

And no matter how nice of a genset you get, they make noise and draw attention to the fact there is a genset running. The Leaf is totally silent.

I have never done it but in Leaf Spy Pro it has a "enable tire registration" which I would assume lets the car learn the new sensors. I did a clone of the stock tires, basically scanning the existing ones, and the new clonable ones match the existing four tires. Then I put those in my snow...

I shouldn't even type this, but I haven't had an issue in about 2 years now. I have done a couple of things, not sure which or all of them that helped. I did swap the battery to a larger battery, more to drain before it is dead...

This is just my experience, I just unplugged the current sensor. As you have probably read, all that does is the car isn't sure the state of charge for the 12v battery so it keeps the 12v battery at absorb, in my car about 13.9v all the time. This doesn't fix the phantom suck on load that runs...

I don't suppose anyone has a picture of the screw method. I am on my second JB weld and both popped loose again this winter. When it was apart I am not sure what the screw could screw in to to hold it?

Hummm, just today I drove 105 miles can consumed 28.63 kWh which at our off peak rate of .0603 turns in to $1.73 to go approx. 100 miles. And that is at 266 Wh/Mile or just under 4 miles per kw in Leaf speak :) If I would have had to supercharge it would have been about $7

Yes, if ours did that at 4 bars we would really be in trouble, ours will do that with 0 or 1 bar of temp.