Recent content by JonoNZ

Hi Niall, How interesting, always good to see someone else who has had some success swapping bits around and keeping their Leaf on the road! Your old OBC: B2820 is a quick-charger malfunction signal or voltage detection issue. B2840 is a output over-voltage or over current general malfunction...

Well, it looks like you're probably on the right track there. The configuration and rating of the charger is a bit different so there are some associated part swaps (DC link electrolytics, input filter components etc.), but it seems to be built on the same topology, power module and shares all...

Potentially, but I think you're several extrapolations deep there. In many of the cases I've seen with the Leaf there's a dead output electrolytic and some evidence that it may have been caused by or have caused a significant output voltage transient, which in turn may have stressed other...

Clamping the coolant lines is a good idea. I was originally going to use it as an opportunity to replace the coolant, but it looked pretty much perfect so didn't bother in the end. These chargers aren't particularly repairable as the power module in them is completely custom (made by Nichicon)...

Hi defenderred, Sorry to hear you're having issues. Just to double check, your 2012 is one of the ones with the charger under the rear seats? There are a few here in NZ that are the AZE0 chassis number type registered as 2012 which causes some confusion. You shouldn't need to get under the...

I don't even really remember the bleeding process so I'm sure it was pretty straightforward. It's also an electric pump and relatively small lines, so I think the coolant speed is both constant and high, which helps. I collected all the coolant that I drained quite carefully, which let me be...

The location is definitely a film capacitor in the Leaf. Mine was melted and you could see the foil. I severely doubt it's killing a film capacitor with over-voltage simply from inductor flyback, but unexpected open-circuit on the output could absolutely cause this kind of issue.

How did you get on? Car still working normally etc?

Oh wow, sorry for the slow response! I've been out of the country and I didn't seem to get a notification that there was a new post! The fast charger DOES use the onboard charger, but only for communications/signalling. The power connection is direct to the battery pack. If the on-board...

The failure in my charger was pretty significant, so I'm not sure it's something that would happen slowly. The car itself has insulation monitoring circuitry that will detect a short to chassis, so it's pretty unlikely that anything is damaged that badly if the car still drives and charges...

Yeah, same deal here. If the battery was anything too horrendous, it would either be stock still or not reporting via LeafSpy. That's what mine did and the 'fault' as far as the vehicle was concerned was that the on-board charger wasn't communicating on the CAN. It wasn't communicating...

That's definitely an interesting response. Any word on how much they would charge for going through and confirming the software is all up to date? That's something I've been wanting to do on mine to potentially solve some weird braking issues. I think it's still pretty unlikely there's...

When I replaced mine, I deliberately grabbed the exact same model. I don't think there would be any (probably just revision numbers) but I can't say for certain without units floating around to test with. If you can't get the exact one, I'd probably go with whichever is cheapest. Where are...

Yeah, that's it. Mines a 3NA3A. I've got a spare control board but no idea if it's good. I'd take a look around for a charger from a wrecker or on ebay and swap it out. There are also some guys you could try to see if they've got any leads for a spare to try. Bluecars might have an idea or...

Yeah, so sounds like something is toast on that CAN link. So, you're getting DTCs and the CAN error, so it's unlikely that you've got the same issue as in the video, but you should be seeing the 5V detect voltage on the pilot pins. Double check the multi-meter by testing across the 12V...