Recent content by Gigawatt

I need to jack up the car and take a look at the ball joints. I definitely think I have the loose axel nut thing going on too - just the start of it - very slight sound - had same issue on my Highlander - bizarre issue. The extra torque of the electric motor probably doesn't help. I can do both...

I think the ball joints on the front of my 2012 are going - making in a bit of a typical clunking sound. Then again it could be that weird axel nut not tight enough or axel grease thing.

Still got the wheels? Price ? - I'm up north a little.

Yes, I have a friend who is a bit of a know it all! I was bragging to him how I figured out the cell was bad with the hydrometer and he piped up and that he worked in a Sears years ago with batteries as a young lad and just pop on the multimeter probes to check it as well!

So in debugging my battery issue I learn't or relearn't some battery theory. Obviously my 10.5 volts was a symptom of a dead cell - 12.6 - 2.1 and I did indeed find the dead cell by the use of a battery hydrometer $6 tool and also by removing the tops off the battery and voltage testing each...

Legality aside, had anyone tried this product to change the color of the obnoxious real lights? It's a red lens paint! Offroad use only! https://www.pepboys.com/vht-nite-shades-red-10-oz-/product/302676

Yes and 12.6v - 2.1v (dead cell) = 10.5v. What do most folks see at the battery terminals, should be the std lead acid voltage of 12.6v. I'm pretty sure the battery charges up to 12v when I put it on the trickle charger when it's not connect to the cars 12v system though. I am thinking I...

I did the Ammeter / fuse removal thing and didn't see that any circuit was the culprit really. Perhaps I'll give it another try. I have all interior light replaced with LED bulbs and I turn them all off when doing the test. What should the 12v batter read voltage wise, my batter sits around...

Pretty sure it was at least more than 100mA (200mA I think) and yes I concur it will drain the battery quickly at that rate. I can check when it warms up a bit.

I have a $5000 2012 leaf with 60k and all 12 bars. I've been chasing down a parasitic drain for last 6 months, finally changed to a new (From Costco %80) Lead acid battery that seem to work fine at first but now with the cold weather for the past two months it goes dead after a few days...

Do we have a part number for the relay? Wondering if this may be the source of my parasitic draw - 12v battery goes dead after leaving car overnight! No clicking on my side all though it would be east to check to see if this relay was still powered after the vehicle was sitting for a few hours.

2012 Leaf here with new pack installed by previous owner in 2015 who lived in hot climate - FL. We still have full 12 bars and about but 10% ish cell degradation I believe, car is here in Front Range of CO and we puchased it about 2 years ago. I full charge most times > 80% and a few DC...

Wonder what you choose. I am looking at separate winter tires and rim AND those bloody TPMS at $60 each. Cheapest would be X-ice tire package $1186 !!! Throw on a set of all weather for $600 and use existing TPMS and rims. We don't use the leaf to go in the deep deep stuff but nice to have...

Well I failed to add that it works perfectly now. I guess plugging it in before one turns off the charge timer confuses the unit.

So it seems that “somebody” was plugging in the receptacle to the front of the car and then pressing the charge timer button! I think this is what triggered the fault - interesting?