Low Gids on new car

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You DO have 99% battery health - 99.07% to be exact. Gids vary with state of charge. Give it a full charge until all the lights shut off, then drive the car immediately. That will even out the cell voltages, which nonetheless are ok.
 
Hm, possible (probable) I misunderstood. I took Gids to be an indicator of total pack health, like a more granular version of the 12-bar, not state of charge. Is that not the case?
 
A Gid is an indication of the state of charge of the Traction battery. It is equal to approximately 75 to 80Wh. Treat it as a more granular version of the long twelve bars on the dash not the short capacity bars.

Gids are a fixed value so it indicates the amount of kWh the battery contains at that moment. The SOC value is the percentage of what the battery can hold, so a 90% SOC in a degraded battery has fewer kWh than a 90% SOC in a new battery.
 
91040 said:
A Gid is an indication of the state of charge of the Traction battery. It is equal to approximately 75 to 80Wh. Treat it as a more granular version of the long twelve bars on the dash not the short capacity bars.

Gids are a fixed value so it indicates the amount of kWh the battery contains at that moment. The SOC value is the percentage of what the battery can hold, so a 90% SOC in a degraded battery has fewer kWh than a 90% SOC in a new battery.

Uh-oh, math. Hope I don't pop a blood vessel.

Going electric has been a gigantic adjustment, especially for an old fossilized brain like mine. ICEs are mechanically far more complex, but there's none of this Wh/mi vs mi/kWh and range being relative to the phase of the moon and your magnetic variation. Miles traveled / gallons used = mpg, done and dusted. Average mpg * tank capacity = range, ditto.
 
Just look at the "SOH" number, which approximates the capacity, and ignore the other numbers, except maybe, in some cases, the cell voltage difference. Anyway, your car is fine.
 
I've always found it helpful to loosely think of kWh in the old ICE terms of 'gallons of fuel', as if my 40kWh battery is like having a 'gas tank' with 40 'gallons'.


Coinneach said:
91040 said:
A Gid is an indication of the state of charge of the Traction battery. It is equal to approximately 75 to 80Wh. Treat it as a more granular version of the long twelve bars on the dash not the short capacity bars.

Gids are a fixed value so it indicates the amount of kWh the battery contains at that moment. The SOC value is the percentage of what the battery can hold, so a 90% SOC in a degraded battery has fewer kWh than a 90% SOC in a new battery.

Uh-oh, math. Hope I don't pop a blood vessel.

Going electric has been a gigantic adjustment, especially for an old fossilized brain like mine. ICEs are mechanically far more complex, but there's none of this Wh/mi vs mi/kWh and range being relative to the phase of the moon and your magnetic variation. Miles traveled / gallons used = mpg, done and dusted. Average mpg * tank capacity = range, ditto.
 
That works too. Just remember: GIDs are nothing but how charged the battery is. They do decline in total as the capacity declines, but they can ONLY be used to estimate battery health when the battery is 100% (indicated) full.
 
No math needed. Using the window in LeafSpy in your second screen shot, set your long term average miles per kWh and the lowest discharge point you are willing to accept. LeafSpy will display the miles left and it even compensates for temperature.

That screen shot shows 195 miles to LBW at 4 miles per kWh.
 
By now you know that GIDs show how much charge the battery has.
The battery health is shown in percentage near SOH. Your SOH is 99,07%.
By the way SOH means State Of Health.
 
pemifer said:
The battery health is shown in percentage near SOH. Your SOH is 99,07%.
By the way SOH means State Of Health.

The SOH is estimated, not measured, and while is displayed to 0.01% is accurate to no better than +-3%.
 
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