extra 12v outlets and LEAF-to-HOME at the same time

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ripple4

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 18, 2018
Messages
110
Location
Toledo, Ohio
I had been planning this for a while and got my two extra 12v power outlet connected today. I used a 30amp cube relay to disconnect the plugs when the power is off. And I also took the ground from the ground point on the back of the motor assembly, not the battery, and took the positive after a 30 amp fuse. I used all 10AWG wire and ran it though the firewall in the fat rubber grommet behind the battery. The wires are zip-tied high and tight to stay clear of the steering column and the relay and all the connections are behind the center dash panel, which is a no-tool access point. The plug pod was purchased from amazon for $15, search for “Iztor 12-24V car dual Marine Cigarette Lighter Splitter Power Adaptor Sockets and USB Charger” I will use this for heated blankets and a 12v heater/defroster. Which together will draw more power then the stock 12v plug can provide.

https://ibb.co/SnrJmL4


I also copied the upgrade from a post long ago (https://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?t=13097) and used the 175amp quick connector to the 12v battery to power a 1500w power inverter, for a “LEAF-TO-HOME” situation. I have a split-phase natural gas generator but its pretty loud, so I figure I can charge the car and power the house during the day, and then use the car to power the house at night. I do have a code complaint 10-circuit transfer switch, saying that just to head off the safety-patrol comments. I put the inverter in a suitcase to contain the wires and protect from damage. I did these two upgrades at the same time because one needed the other for the battery connection points.

https://ibb.co/LtdWghP


https://ibb.co/MBKbyj4
 
Nice. I have the components for a similar L2H setup, but haven't gotten around to installing them. Did you crimp, solder or do both to the ring connectors?
 
I used the correct punch tool for the Anderson connectors and no solder. the correct tool must be used or it won't fit in the nice plastic housing. the positive jumper wire most visible in the photo was made with flattened 00 butt-splices that are soldered and heat shrunk, which is why they look flat. It worked out kind of better because I could drill the 8mm/10mm holes where I wanted. I used high dielectric rust-proofer to cover all exposed bolts.
 
I use a pretty standard hex crimper set on my Anderson connectors.
It appears that if they are just smashed with a hammer they probably won't fit inside the plug any more.

For me I just have a forklift battery in the garage and an outback 24v inverter charger in the garage. Then just pull the meter and back feed the entire house.
 
I'm planning on using ring connectors (to connect to heavy alligator clamps) rather than Andersons. It's a cheap setup that will be the second backup to a medium-sized dual fuel gen.
 
sunpraiser084 said:
How much did you pay for the installation?

None of these links are advertiser links that I get commission from, just linking to the source I bought from out of courtesy to the requestor. I did the work myself so there was no labor charges. Besides only your friend who is also mechanic would install this stuff anyway, too much liability for a professional shop.

$166.92-Leaf to home costs:

$140- 1500w pure sine wave inverter [made $140 offer](https://www.ebay.com/itm/191734725815)
$14.90-175a Anderson plugs with dust cap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/152827713819)
$7.02– 150a breaker (https://www.ebay.com/itm/183592416901)
~$5- 1/4-20 stainless nuts and bolts (Menards)
Material on hand - 2” L Aluminum mounting bracket, ~15’ of 00 welding cable, ½” adhesive heat shrink tubing, 00 lug ends, 00 butt splices, kestler 10Sn88Pb2Ag solder, VHS camcorder briefcase and zip ties. Also here is the tool I used for the Anderson connectors it’s a T&B STAKON 8,6,4,2 punch crimper.

https://ibb.co/3sg2Mbb


$26-Extra 12v power outlets:

$26-Extra 12v power outlets:
$14.70 -Outlet pod (https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Splitter-Adaptor-Sockets/dp/B01DXD0SCA)
$6.30 – 30 amp fuse holder (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222869012649)
~$5 - Marine battery power connectors (Meijer general store) similar to the ground block used in this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-5024-Marine-ST-Blade-Battery-Terminal-Mount-Fuse-Block-Kit-Boat/292400878076)
material on hand - 6’ each of red and black 10AWG car wiring, 30 amp cube relay, 10awg butt splices, 10awg punch crimper tool, ¼” adhesive heat shrink tubing, 10awg terminal ends and various zip ties.
 
The only thing I don't like about using the leaf as a power supply is the idle power draw.
If I remember correctly my leaf draws about 2 amps just to keep the DC to DC converter and inverter powered up while it's "on".
 
ripple4 said:
sunpraiser084 said:
How much did you pay for the installation?

None of these links are advertiser links that I get commission from, just linking to the source I bought from out of courtesy to the requestor. I did the work myself so there was no labor charges. Besides only your friend who is also mechanic would install this stuff anyway, too much liability for a professional shop.

$166.92-Leaf to home costs:

$140- 1500w pure sine wave inverter [made $140 offer](https://www.ebay.com/itm/191734725815)
$14.90-175a Anderson plugs with dust cap (https://www.ebay.com/itm/152827713819)
$7.02– 150a breaker (https://www.ebay.com/itm/183592416901)
~$5- 1/4-20 stainless nuts and bolts (Menards)
Material on hand - 2” L Aluminum mounting bracket, ~15’ of 00 welding cable, ½” adhesive heat shrink tubing, 00 lug ends, 00 butt splices, kestler 10Sn88Pb2Ag solder, VHS camcorder briefcase and zip ties. Also here is the tool I used for the Anderson connectors it’s a T&B STAKON 8,6,4,2 punch crimper.

https://ibb.co/3sg2Mbb


$26-Extra 12v power outlets:

$26-Extra 12v power outlets:
$14.70 -Outlet pod (https://www.amazon.com/Cigarette-Lighter-Splitter-Adaptor-Sockets/dp/B01DXD0SCA)
$6.30 – 30 amp fuse holder (https://www.ebay.com/itm/222869012649)
~$5 - Marine battery power connectors (Meijer general store) similar to the ground block used in this (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Blue-Sea-5024-Marine-ST-Blade-Battery-Terminal-Mount-Fuse-Block-Kit-Boat/292400878076)
material on hand - 6’ each of red and black 10AWG car wiring, 30 amp cube relay, 10awg butt splices, 10awg punch crimper tool, ¼” adhesive heat shrink tubing, 10awg terminal ends and various zip ties.

Thanks for the info.
 
I have been using the multiple outlet adapter for years, and it has NO INSTALLATION. It plugs into the cigarette lighter, and you can use hook and loop pads to lay it on the little tray right below the power plug. It fits perfectly....

Look:

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Insten-Three-Way-Car-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Charger-Splitter-w-USB-Port-Black/28884661?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1375&adid=22222222227019476927&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=51797612471&wl4=pla-83200120991&wl5=9004488&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=112561991&wl11=online&wl12=28884661&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIj6uR4IaM4gIVmlINCh0iZAb6EAQYAiABEgJmkfD_BwE
 
Hi,
Looking for advise in regards installing an Anderson Plug to the Battery? I have a Nissan Leaf 2021 and I am gearing myself for both camping and house power backup.
Purchased an external 200AH Lithium Battery (as well as a 60AH for camping) with a 3000W Inverter for the house. Looking at attaching a DCDC charger for this battery.
Just don't want to interfere or danger the Nissan's electrics. I have a solar panel for it at home ... but also really just want to run off the Nissan (on rainy days).
So simply wanting to attach the DCDC to the Nissan's battery and export the power via an external 25A DCDC charger ... to charge // support the 200Ah battery when in use.
Probably being too safe or an overkill.
But the question is, is it OK to directly plug in the positive wire to the battery ... and the negative wire???? to the body?
Or is there a better/safer place to wire in?
Cheers
 
What exactly are you trying to do here?

Do you want to charge your 200 Ah external battery using the Leafs 12 V battery? Or using the Leafs HV battery?

You will waste a lot of energy in both cases; and using the 12V battery will most likely just drain it without giving you that much more runtime on your external battery. The best thing would of course be to simply run your DC/DC converter directly from the battery; but that depends on what you've got and what you want.

As far as I know, you can get DC/AC converters that go from the Leaf's Chademo port to high-power AC ports. But they are most likely not as cheap as the chinese "3000 W" "pure sine" converters (which you should never run at 3000 W and which definitely do NOT have pure sines) you can buy for 100$...

Edit:

Vehicle-to-Home (V2H) 6kVA Charger - SETEC POWER
 
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As much as I admire these (12v) L2H efforts, I have come to the conclusion that the Gen1 (and Gen2) Leaf just isn't ready for that job. I am able to charge my EcoFlow Delta Pro (which I use for home back-up) from the (standard) 12v socket, but it's definitely a slow charge. The truth is, all EVs will have some sort of 2-way power transfer capability (like the Kia/Hyundai EVs do today), which will fill the home back-up role when needed; the only thing missing right now is a boost from 15A output to 30A output, which is more suited to the transfer switches out there (like the Reliance one I use).
 
I was told when I purchased my 2019 SV+ 4 1/2 years ago that it had V2H capability, but that the local utility (PG&E) wouldn't allow the home unit necessary to utilize it because "they didn't trust it". I know that Wallbox has a home EVSE used in Spain which provides full V2H utilization, but they can't sell it here - again because of PG&E. Is there not enough money changing hands? What is going on?
 
I was told when I purchased my 2019 SV+ 4 1/2 years ago that it had V2H capability, but that the local utility (PG&E) wouldn't allow the home unit necessary to utilize it because "they didn't trust it". I know that Wallbox has a home EVSE used in Spain which provides full V2H utilization, but they can't sell it here - again because of PG&E. Is there not enough money changing hands? What is going on?
I'm guessing most people have realized that V2H is pretty much dead until battery changes in vehicles are standardized. Why waste valuable lifetime on your EV battery when you can buy some cheap chinese server rack LiFePO4 batteries and off the shelf solar array inverter/charger... The price difference between a EV battery (if you can even get hold of one), associated labor cost and a standard LiFePO4 setup is huge...
 
If you click on the Fermata site, you will see a reference to V2H. But if you click on that to get more info, it takes you to their fleet (V2F) power sharing page. It appears they do not have an active V2H program available at this time.
Again - if Wallbox has their Quasar unit fully available and functional in Europe at this time, why is such a unit not in full use here? What's holding it up?
 
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