Accidentally ran over my EVSE handle...

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Tsiah

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Messages
143
Location
Salt Lake City
Tony at quick charge has a solution for me, but in the mean time it leaves me with no EVSE at home and an 80 mile commute. Does anyone see an issue with taking the cable and handle for my Nissan EVSE, wiring it to my openEVSE and turning the max current down to 16A?
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GerryAZ said:
It should be OK, but you will void Nissan 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty on the 120-volt EVSE by breaking the seal and opening the unit.

Yea, I think I'm going to make it a 240V EVSE while I'm in there. :lol:

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It's done. Had to turn down to 16A which slows my charging to 3kW... 6kW charging has spoiled me! 10 hours to charge is ridiculous.
 
You didn't say what year Nissan EVSE you had, but the older ones for sure(pre '15??) used 12 gauge wire and can handle 20a. If your EVSE uses 14 gauge then I'd probably stop at 15a.
Note wall wiring has to be downrated 20% making a 12 gauge wire only handle 16a continuous and a 14 gauge 13a but for external wire you can run the full rating, even if continuous.
 
jjeff said:
You didn't say what year Nissan EVSE you had, but the older ones for sure(pre '15??) used 12 gauge wire and can handle 20a. If your EVSE uses 14 gauge then I'd probably stop at 15a.
Note wall wiring has to be downrated 20% making a 12 gauge wire only handle 16a continuous and a 14 gauge 13a but for external wire you can run the full rating, even if continuous.
EVSEupgrade.com notes the max Amp rating for the different model year Nissan OEM EVSEs
Up to 20 Amps for 2013-2014 versions;
Up to 16 Amps for the 2015-2017 versions

http://evseupgrade.com/?main_page=index&cPath=1&zenid=c5kjkn2nla3lljsir47s0ep9h1
 
jjeff said:
You didn't say what year Nissan EVSE you had, but the older ones for sure(pre '15??) used 12 gauge wire and can handle 20a. If your EVSE uses 14 gauge then I'd probably stop at 15a.
Note wall wiring has to be downrated 20% making a 12 gauge wire only handle 16a continuous and a 14 gauge 13a but for external wire you can run the full rating, even if continuous.
14 AWG is good to 12A continuous. :p
(Electrician here. ;) Looking to get my journeyman's license next year.)
I didn't look into it, I just know when they upgrade the EVSE to take 240V it delivers 16A so I figured that would be the safest setting in my EVSE. My Max is set to 16A and the car pulls 14.7A.

My car/EVSE are 2016.

Does anyone have a picture of the inside of the EVSE? I spaced it and didn't take a picture so I don't know which order the L1, Neutral and pilot go into the terminal strip.
 
If you just want a 16A cable Amazon has one for $99. It is UL rated for 120V but it works fine at 240V. Rush at TusonEV has a 30A cable for $125 plus shipping. Tony's cable is elegant but pricey. If he can just replace the handle it should cost around $100.

Do not cannibalize the stock EVSE and void the warranty.

I watch eBay and I usually buy non blink (Rema) cables for around $100 but I assume you are in a hurry. The Amazon stuff is fast. My carry along OpenEVSE has a 120V 15A cable at 16A L2 and 12A L1. For lower power they work fine and at 16A they run cool. My stock included L1 EVSE sits on the shelf for lease turn in.
 
It looks like the pins are intact. You might just buy a J1772 handle and transfer the wire. That would be the fastest solution. That assumes the existing pins fit.
 
GlennD said:
If you just want a 16A cable Amazon has one for $99. It is UL rated for 120V but it works fine at 240V. Rush at TusonEV has a 30A cable for $125 plus shipping. Tony's cable is elegant but pricey. If he can just replace the handle it should cost around $100.

Do not cannibalize the stock EVSE and void the warranty.

I watch eBay and I usually buy non blink (Rema) cables for around $100 but I assume you are in a hurry. The Amazon stuff is fast. My carry along OpenEVSE has a 120V 15A cable at 16A L2 and 12A L1. For lower power they work fine and at 16A they run cool. My stock included L1 EVSE sits on the shelf for lease turn in.
Already opened the stock one, used the handle on my openEVSE for a week, got my cable and handle repaired and back from Tony.
I don't care about the warranty on the EVSE as I plan on converting it to a 240V portable unit and I'll probably drive this car to 100k+miles. :p
 
GerryAZ said:
It should be OK, but you will void Nissan 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty on the 120-volt EVSE by breaking the seal and opening the unit.
My guess is running over the handle probably voids the warranty as well.
 
cmwade77 said:
GerryAZ said:
It should be OK, but you will void Nissan 5-year, 60,000-mile warranty on the 120-volt EVSE by breaking the seal and opening the unit.
My guess is running over the handle probably voids the warranty as well.

It was not the handle of the Nissan unit that the OP ran over. I am sure that running over the handle would be considered to be abuse and replacement would not be covered by warranty.
 
EVSEupgrade.com has told me that they do not install cables into the handle because they cannot meet the specs for water vapor intrusion.

I personally do what I can to avoid fires, so I would only buy a pre-fabricated handle+cable.
 
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