Best EVSE/charging solution for my situation?

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nr427 said:
If you want to save a few bucks on wire consider installing a NEMA 6-50 outlet. This won't require a neutral wire that the EVSE ignores anyway, and it will still work to charge the Leaf at full speed.

Thanks, what is the downside of that?
 
jake14mw said:
nr427 said:
If you want to save a few bucks on wire consider installing a NEMA 6-50 outlet. This won't require a neutral wire that the EVSE ignores anyway, and it will still work to charge the Leaf at full speed.

Thanks, what is the downside of that?
Nothing if just using for an EVSE, the downside is you couldn't use it for something that would require a neutral(stove, etc) down the line and the 6-50 plug is a little harder to find on an EVSE, the 14-50 plug is more common.
 
I just woke up, so correct me if I'm wrong. If you have a Neutral wire, you can install a NEMA 14-50 outlet with Neutral and use a convertible plug with the Neutral prong left off for the EVSE. That lets you use the outlet for other devices. If there is no Neutral, then the above post has it right.
 
I ran a neutral since the run was only 8 feet and the cost was small I may never use it but at least the 14-50 is fully wired. 40 and 50A range cables are commodities and they are under $20 for 4 foot ones. In the OpenEVSE units I build I simply ignore and insulate the unused neutral.
Tesla popularized the 14-50 connector.

I have heard of people cutting off the pin so the EVSE can be plugged into 60A, 50A, and 30A outlets. All of the other pins are the same. In the OpenEVSE menu you can set the current so for a 30A outlet you would set it for 24A.
 
LeftieBiker said:
I just woke up, so correct me if I'm wrong. If you have a Neutral wire, you can install a NEMA 14-50 outlet with Neutral and use a convertible plug with the Neutral prong left off for the EVSE. That lets you use the outlet for other devices.....
Correct, leaving off the neutral prong on the plug also has the added benefit of letting you plug into a variety of 14--xx outlets, as GlennD talked about.
 
alozzy said:
I'm pretty sure that on most residential electrical panels the neutral and ground are on a common bus.
The only panel in a house where neutrals and grounds are common is the panel with the service disconnect. That's the first circuit breaker in the house after the meter.

Many house have only one panel, with a main circuit breaker that is the service disconnect plus all the branch circuit breakers. In that case the grounds and neutrals will be common in that panel. For any subpanel, or any "main panel" where there is a separate service disconnect, the neutral and grounds should be kept separate.

Cheers, Wayne
 
Depending on the age of the house, it is possible that the dryer 10-30 receptacle is in fact fed by 10/3 with ground NM cable (4 conductors total), and the installer used a 10-30 receptacle to match an existing dryer plug or due to lack of knowledge. This is not so likely, but if it is the case, that's good. In this case it would be worth switching the dryer receptacle and cord to 14-30, and removing the bonding strap in the dryer.

If you want to share a single circuit between the dryer and the EVSE, that is definitely possible if you have separate neutral and ground (4 conductors total). It's probably OK if you have only three conductors total (2 hots and a neutral) but the circuit originates at a main panel with service disconnect, where the neutrals and grounds are interconnected.

But you would need a method to keep both the dryer and the EVSE from running at once. So you need to install at a minimum a 30 amp DPDT snap switch, such as the Leviton 1288. One side of the snap switch powers a dryer receptacle, either 14-30 if you have 4 total conductors or 10-30 if you have 3 total conductors. The other side powers an EVSE receptacle, preferably 6-30, but 14-30 could be used if you have 4 total conductors. The EVSE receptacle could also be a -50 version (50 amp) if that is preferred, or it could be hardwired. The EVSE, however, would need to be sized for the 30 amp circuit, so set to no more than 24 amps.

All in all that's a bit of trouble, so I would say it only makes sense when running a new circuit would be alot more trouble. If only a little more trouble, run a new circuit.

Cheers, Wayne
 
I really appreciate everyone's excellent feedback. People gave me exactly what I was looking for. At this point, I am definitely leaning towards running a new circuit. I do have another question about that. My garage has insulation, drywall, and is painted. Once I get the wire to the garage, I will need to run it along the wall about 20 feet. I guess I have a choice between cutting the drywall and running the wire through the studs, or putting the wire in metal conduit on the outside of the wall, right?
 
If you run the wire above chest height I don't think you need conduit. You could run it along the ceiling, use UF cable for extra safety, and no conduit. You'll want to confirm that though.
 
jake14mw said:
I really appreciate everyone's excellent feedback. People gave me exactly what I was looking for. At this point, I am definitely leaning towards running a new circuit. I do have another question about that. My garage has insulation, drywall, and is painted. Once I get the wire to the garage, I will need to run it along the wall about 20 feet. I guess I have a choice between cutting the drywall and running the wire through the studs, or putting the wire in metal conduit on the outside of the wall, right?

Where is your panel located?
Where is the EVSE going to be installed?
Have you picked out the EVSE to purchase?

The answers to the above questions will impact how the new circuit is extended from the panel to the EVSE location.

The run from the panel to the EVSE should be as straight and short as possible. If the walls are finished, just run the wire in conduit on the surface. I would recommend putting any surface mounted wire in conduit, for protection, even if your locale does not require it.
 
baustin said:
Where is your panel located?
Where is the EVSE going to be installed?
Have you picked out the EVSE to purchase?

The answers to the above questions will impact how the new circuit is extended from the panel to the EVSE location.

The run from the panel to the EVSE should be as straight and short as possible. If the walls are finished, just run the wire in conduit on the surface. I would recommend putting any surface mounted wire in conduit, for protection, even if your locale does not require it.

The panel is on the exact opposite corner of the house from where the EVSE will be located. The total run will be about 90 feet. I have not picked the EVSE yet. Thanks.
 
jake14mw said:
I really appreciate everyone's excellent feedback. People gave me exactly what I was looking for. At this point, I am definitely leaning towards running a new circuit. I do have another question about that. My garage has insulation, drywall, and is painted. Once I get the wire to the garage, I will need to run it along the wall about 20 feet. I guess I have a choice between cutting the drywall and running the wire through the studs, or putting the wire in metal conduit on the outside of the wall, right?
I'd use BX/AC(flexible metal conduit with wires already inside) or Greenfield(same as BX but wires are purchased separately) unless you can run wires above ceiling.
 
jake14mw said:
I really appreciate everyone's excellent feedback. People gave me exactly what I was looking for. At this point, I am definitely leaning towards running a new circuit. I do have another question about that. My garage has insulation, drywall, and is painted. Once I get the wire to the garage, I will need to run it along the wall about 20 feet. I guess I have a choice between cutting the drywall and running the wire through the studs, or putting the wire in metal conduit on the outside of the wall, right?
Yes that is the choice for a finished garage. Are you sure you even want it inside? I thought the car was mostly going to charge outside? No need for an outlet, just hardwire the evse.
 
smkettner said:
jake14mw said:
I really appreciate everyone's excellent feedback. People gave me exactly what I was looking for. At this point, I am definitely leaning towards running a new circuit. I do have another question about that. My garage has insulation, drywall, and is painted. Once I get the wire to the garage, I will need to run it along the wall about 20 feet. I guess I have a choice between cutting the drywall and running the wire through the studs, or putting the wire in metal conduit on the outside of the wall, right?
Yes that is the choice for a finished garage. Are you sure you even want it inside? I thought the car was mostly going to charge outside? No need for an outlet, just hardwire the evse.

The trouble with wiring it directly is that it becomes part of the installation. It is always good to follow the NEC requirements but most Chinese and the OpenEVSE are safe but they are not UL approved. This is a problem if an over zealous inspector is involved.

In my opinion it is just better to have a 14-50R installed for large RV use. When you say EV everyone thinks they have struck gold.
 
smkettner said:
jake14mw said:
I really appreciate everyone's excellent feedback. People gave me exactly what I was looking for. At this point, I am definitely leaning towards running a new circuit. I do have another question about that. My garage has insulation, drywall, and is painted. Once I get the wire to the garage, I will need to run it along the wall about 20 feet. I guess I have a choice between cutting the drywall and running the wire through the studs, or putting the wire in metal conduit on the outside of the wall, right?
Yes that is the choice for a finished garage. Are you sure you even want it inside? I thought the car was mostly going to charge outside? No need for an outlet, just hardwire the evse.

So our juicebox is fed from a 50 amp cable. You can see the conduit on the left and a little on the bottom. This conduit is vented which is the only conduit you are allowed to use for a prefab cord where we live. Easy install (screws to the wall) then the cord lays in the conduit and the top snaps on top. Can be removed if something changes later. For us we wanted to be able to change it later (60 amp Tesla HPWC requirement) so we had the Nema 14-50 installed close to the box but on the garage side and then used a 25 foot 50 amp RV extension cord. Looks great. Works well. Paintable if you want.

33326655264_dfba5201c3_z.jpg
 
GlennD said:
The trouble with wiring it directly is that it becomes part of the installation. It is always good to follow the NEC requirements but most Chinese and the OpenEVSE are safe but they are not UL approved. This is a problem if an over zealous inspector is involved.

In my opinion it is just better to have a 14-50R installed for large RV use. When you say EV everyone thinks they have struck gold.
OK and I recommend Clipper Creek. No inspection issues.
 
Clipper Creek certainly makes fine fixed EVSE's. If you want variable adjustment you need to go with the modified Tesla EVSE or the adjustable JuiceBox or OpenEVSE units. The advantage of the Clipper Creek units is that they are UL approved. I am an OpenEVSE person and they work for me. I have been before they added the GFCI test and circuit. The first units were crude in comparison to the current offering. Just like the Chinese units they worked under perfect conditions. The Tesla units use a Potter and Brumfield unit at 40A It is rated for that in pass through mode. I guess it it fails it needs to be replaced anyway.

I feel GFCI is important and it is part of the J1772 spec. I am not comfortable with a Chinese unit without it. As far as I know the Clipper Creek units fully comply.
 
An update to my situation. I saw a great deal on Amazon on a Siemens VersiCharge 30 amp EVSE charger. It was $359, so I ordered it. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MFVI92S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Is has a NEMA 6-50 plug. So, I am planning on running a new Circuit. The total wire run will be about 90 feet. I did some checking on wire prices, keeping in mind the idea of futureproofing for cars and chargers in the future that can handle higher charging rates. I found that a 125 ft roll of 6-2 romex is about $165, vs, $115 for 8-2. If I am going through the work, I would think I would want to install a 50 amp breaker and the 6-2? Does this make sense? Is this the right type of wire? For this length run is this the right gauge wire? My garage is drywalled, so the plan is that once the wire gets to the garage wall from the basement, then I will run it in 1" PVC conduit. Is this conduit large enough for 6-2?

Is this the right type of wire?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-125-ft-6-2-Stranded-Romex-SIMpull-CU-NM-B-W-G-Wire-28894402/202316592?keyword=6-2+romex
 
The breaker should be sized for the EVSE, not just the cable. You can always swap in a 50 amp breaker if/when you get a 40 amp EVSE. Assuming a 30 amp EVSE you want a 40 amp breaker now. The link to the cable wouldn't load.
 
LeftieBiker said:
The breaker should be sized for the EVSE, not just the cable. You can always swap in a 50 amp breaker if/when you get a 40 amp EVSE. Assuming a 30 amp EVSE you want a 40 amp breaker now. The link to the cable wouldn't load.

Thanks, fixed the link.
 
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