1000 WATT Stereo Install - New Tweeters, New Drivers + SUB!

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I have the sub set to 200HZ and down and the rest of the speakers from 200HZ and up.

As per how flat or what HZ I'm at at the low end I have no idea. Well at least I haven't measured it.

The specs on JL Audio dot com say that the driver will go down to 33HZ in a ported enclosure.

I have a stereophile CD. Just need to find some spare time.....


evnow said:
Lasareath said:
Stereo systems are one of my hobbies. If you search for my handle online you'll find most of my hits are stereo system related.

At home I have 600 watts per channel into speakers that handle 1200. Need to upgrade that one day.
Well, as an "ex" audiophile, I was just trying to say quantity <> quality.

To start with - analytically - how flat is your response curve and to what Hz at the low end ? If you haven't checked, get hold of a stereophile cd & a simple dsl meter from ratshack and try it out. You will be surprised.
 
Lasareath said:
Thanks for the praise!

You didn't happen to take any photos of this grommet on the drivers side?





Stellar007 said:
This post and pics were great in upgrading my 2013 Leaf. I wanted to add a couple things I found for others who may be looking at this and want different options.

1) Regarding pic #1-5 and using the unused grommet. There is also an unused grommet on the driver side, to the left of the parking brake and just to the left of the hood release cable. It is not as easy to get to (I took out the parking brake to get more room), but, then your power cable is on the same side of the engine compartment as the battery (2013 battery on the driver side- not sure about other models) and you don't have to route power cable around the entire engine compartment. Just another option for folks.

2) Regarding the great pics you posted, #10 and #11 on the GREEN TAB. I was able to take it off without cutting it. Once you have the panel out as far as it can (5"-6"), take a needle-nose pliers and grab the middle flat part of the green tab carefully rotate it 90 degrees and it will release. Presto- no cut tab and thus the airbag will deploy as it should. Otherwise, this pillar piece will come rocketing to you and your steering wheel airbag and possibly prevent them both from working correctly.

Cheers!

I did not take photos of it- sorry. If you follow the cable for the hood release, the spare grommet is literally 1" to the left (towards the outside of the car)
If you look in the engine compartment, you can see it- look behind the battery and as far back in the lower driver corner as possible and you will see the hood release cable and then the spare grommet.
 
I think I'm going to buy this one.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/t37/10127/28296/Real-Time-Analyzer/Real-Time-Analyzer-SA--3052.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;




evnow said:
Lasareath said:
I have a stereophile CD. Just need to find some spare time.....
I'd be very interested in the response curve. Let us know when you measure.
 
I just Bought this Audio Control!!! for only $205.00!!!!

AudioControl-3050a.png





evnow said:
Lasareath said:
I have a stereophile CD. Just need to find some spare time.....
I'd be very interested in the response curve. Let us know when you measure.
 
Well time is always my problem. I'm running my own small business with 45 clients. 80 to 100 hours a week. Not too much free time.

2 years ago I had someone build me new crossovers and complete internal wiring for my home stereo speakers http://www.Lasareath.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and I haven't had a chance to put them in. I spent $3000.00. They are sitting on a table in my basement collecting dust! lol


evnow said:
Lasareath said:
I just Bought this Audio Control!!! for only $205.00!!!!
Wow. If time to use it I'd buy one too.
 
Here's HOW NOT TO INSTALL STEREO EQUIPMENT IN YOUR LEAF!!!!!

https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?fbid=701865609924202&set=gm.823346557736187&type=1&theater" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

how_not_to_upgrade_your_stereo.png
 
Nice build and thanks for the pictures of your disassembled LEAF :). I used them to figure out what I want to put in later.
 
Nogood said:
Nice build and thanks for the pictures of your disassembled LEAF :). I used them to figure out what I want to put in later.


Glad I could Help!, What did you install in your LEAF?
 
Lasareath said:
I have the sub set to 200HZ and down and the rest of the speakers from 200HZ and up.

200Hz is too high - the bottom octave is 20-40Hz, and the octave from 40-80Hz is likely to be pretty good on the main speakers. Having the crossover set in the lower midrange will have effects well up into the midrange.
 
That's old information that I never updated. I experimented with 40HZ and down with the SUB and 40HZ and up on the Mid-Ranges but I blew out a couple Mid-Ranges. They just couldn't handle it.

So the Sub is set to 40HZ and below and the Mids are set to 50HZ and above.

So, Yes I am missing some frequencies, I've never had anybody say "You know, I think there's a Gap in the frequencies"

In one of my previous cars I had a 3 Amps, I had two Subs, two Mid-Bass drivers and 3-Ways, 2000 Watts, It was crazy, I do not need a system like that in my LEAF.

This sounds Great.




NeilBlanchard said:
Lasareath said:
I have the sub set to 200HZ and down and the rest of the speakers from 200HZ and up.

200Hz is too high - the bottom octave is 20-40Hz, and the octave from 40-80Hz is likely to be pretty good on the main speakers. Having the crossover set in the lower midrange will have effects well up into the midrange.
 
You may have a dip around 50Hz, since the filters cannot be brick walls. In fact, the gentler the slope of the filter, the less it will affect the phase. The steeper the filter, the more it affects the phase.
 
Lasareath said:
Nogood said:
Nice build and thanks for the pictures of your disassembled LEAF :). I used them to figure out what I want to put in later.


Glad I could Help!, What did you install in your LEAF?

Nothing yet. Looking into stealing line level signal and circumventing the onboard amp which is bad. Would like to use digital amps and want to change the speakers. Can't decide on car component sets or self made using raw drivers.

Your install pics will help! :)
 
Great post i am currently installing my stereo... where do i get a remote wire from on a 2013 leaf sv to turn on the amp when car turns on ? Power and ground done.. also where do i get a line input to the amp from ? Im looking around and not having anyluck other than taking off the door panels..

thanks!
 
This thing makes the remote turn-on lead for your amps.

http://www.audiocontrol.com/car-audio/factory-system-upgrade/lc2i/



zore said:
Great post i am currently installing my stereo... where do i get a remote wire from on a 2013 leaf sv to turn on the amp when car turns on ? Power and ground done.. also where do i get a line input to the amp from ? Im looking around and not having anyluck other than taking off the door panels..

thanks!
 
I bought the LC6i off amazon because I wanted to have all 4 channels. That also has a remote-on.
It is bigger than the LC2.....
There is a harness you can buy that will allow you to NOT cut the factory speaker wires



google search Subaru 20pin harness and AE64.com will come up.
The 20 pin harness is a perfect fit on my 2015 Leaf and the inbetween wires are the ones to cut and route speaker cables. I opted to reuse all factory cables in my install to avoid cutting too many wires,

My LC6i and JL Audio JX 250 all fit under the front passenger seat. The left rail rides on tope of the box, but I was still able to bolt the seat down.
 
Awesome! Thanks for this Info! - I'll be sure to tell it to people who are looking to upgrade their LEAF



cy7878 said:
I bought the LC6i off amazon because I wanted to have all 4 channels. That also has a remote-on.
It is bigger than the LC2.....
There is a harness you can buy that will allow you to NOT cut the factory speaker wires

google search Subaru 20pin harness and AE64.com will come up.
The 20 pin harness is a perfect fit on my 2015 Leaf and the inbetween wires are the ones to cut and route speaker cables. I opted to reuse all factory cables in my install to avoid cutting too many wires,

My LC6i and JL Audio JX 250 all fit under the front passenger seat. The left rail rides on tope of the box, but I was still able to bolt the seat down.
 
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