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cwerdna said:
gotd77 said:
in other way to say is every EV should be able to or should capable to do 440V charge. if public place is unable to accommodate you do use or ask you to pay for use is our option to choose
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Sure... but go to http://www.plugshare.com/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, More Options, uncheck every outlet type except CHAdeMO DCFC and see how many huge holes there are.

gotd77 said:
Fkn sale dude never even explains any of these things and he kept told me his wife drives it and it is greater than any other car!! he even told me his wife's car is 3.3kw charge. i don't know how many people can do 15 -18hr charge every day?? then Nissan told me pay my self to get 240v charging station at home spending almost 1500 dollar. are you crazy?? this guy in Bay area call EVSE upgrade save my life. still end up spend some money and modify my house circuit breaker too.
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That's the problem. There are some poorly informed salespeople and others who will lie or say anything to make a sale. :( Again, you said "his wife's car". Sounds like HE doesn't drive it.

A 15 to 18 hour charge at night isn't at 120 volts isn't required if one's commute is short enough or there's charging at work/destinations. I certainly NEVER do that when commuting since I get free L1 and L2 charging @ work. On L2, it's 5 hours charging tops for me to get to 100% w/a nearly dead Leaf. 1 hour at L2 is more than enough to get me home. Re: "i don't know how many people can do 15 -18hr charge every day" Not many people do that.

Even if I had no charging ability at work, my commute's only ~12 miles each way. I would have no issue w/the commute in terms of range and replenishing charge quickly enough even if I charged only at 120 volts at home.

Re: your range anxiety issues, if you want real solutions, you need to answer the questions I pointed. I highly suspect you're leaving a fair amount of range on the table and not properly conserving energy, as I and recmob have pointed out. Without answers, we can only guess, which isn't productive.
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good point! I was worried because my work do not provide L1/L2 charge so i asked this sales dude and he told me i would not need it. it is good to have one but not required for your 50 miles round trip. i don't need to do that point questionnaire because i do 50-60 mile on the hwy and local drive around 35-40miles half and half also no ac with windows rolled up, try to let it coasting as much as i can... for 50miles round trip. when i get home i only get 20% left and start charging for 15hr will not even get to near 100% so is there any body drive better than me?? can you imagine driving with windows rolled up and no a/c on over 90 degree hot day?? that is no joke!
 
gotd77 said:
. my commute is only 25mile one way. it makes 50 - 51 miles round trip! I go 50% high way and the other 50% local. now i don't use A/C nor Heater even weather is threatening me. and all window rolled up for reduce drag. that's crazy on 90 degree hot weather day... can you imagine? roll up all window and no a/c and stock on the traffic???? and i only go 55-60 max m/h on the high way. so Nissan balm on my driving habit is bad. that's why with 100% full charge, i can only go 50 or 60 miles Nissan said. hello!! my car is 2015 brand new only had 150 miles on it!!!! what the heck?? so what research do i need to do?? how to bring portable A/C or Fan in the car when 90degree day stock in the traffic?? that sort of research are you talking about??? i don't get it.
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Look, I understand you're not happy but your venting is NOT helpful. Please answer the questions at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=275421#p275421" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. We cannot help people who cannot help themselves.

I still doubt that your Leaf "barely can do 50miles round trip to work". From the range tests at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=273048#p273048" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=269645#p269645" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, TonyWilliams determined that a '13 Leaf at a steady 100 kph (~62 mph) can achieve just a tad over 80 miles of range. Power consumption rises considerably as speed increases.

No, your statements really do indicate you didn't do the proper research. There are too many topics to cover such as charging speed situation, electrical situation at home, level 1 vs. level 2 AC charging, DC fast charging (from your earlier statements), 3.3 kW vs. 6 kW on-board charger, the range chart at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and so on... You could've communicated w/other Leaf drivers and asked questions here and/or on various grassroots Leaf Facebook groups (I'm active on 2 of them), for example.

We also have no clue approx where you live. Can you update your location info via User Control Panel (near top) > Profile (left side)? That way, we don't need to ask in future posts/threads or do sleuthing to deduce it.

In the winter, there will be temporarily reduced battery capacity and other factors will reduce your range in winter (e.g. heater use (power hungry heater in the S and '11 and '12 Leafs), increased rolling friction from wet or snowy/slushy pavement, etc.) Your claims are more believable in below freezing temps with snow on the ground, but again, I still am not sure how you're determining "barely" making it. I have no idea how many miles/kWh you're achieving nor do I know if you're just running the heater too high instead of using heated seats and steering wheel.

You also said "try to let it coasting as much". Not sure what you're doing here. Assuming you're not coasting in Neutral (which I don't condone), if you have any regen bubbles (solid blue bubbles) to the left while "coasting", than you're not really doing it right. You'd want to minimize the amount of energy into and out of the battery due to energy conversion losses.
 
cwerdna said:
gotd77 said:
. my commute is only 25mile one way. it makes 50 - 51 miles round trip! I go 50% high way and the other 50% local. now i don't use A/C nor Heater even weather is threatening me. and all window rolled up for reduce drag. that's crazy on 90 degree hot weather day... can you imagine? roll up all window and no a/c and stock on the traffic???? and i only go 55-60 max m/h on the high way. so Nissan balm on my driving habit is bad. that's why with 100% full charge, i can only go 50 or 60 miles Nissan said. hello!! my car is 2015 brand new only had 150 miles on it!!!! what the heck?? so what research do i need to do?? how to bring portable A/C or Fan in the car when 90degree day stock in the traffic?? that sort of research are you talking about??? i don't get it.
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Look, I understand you're not happy but your venting is NOT helpful. Please answer the questions at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=275421#p275421" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;. We cannot help people who cannot help themselves.

I still doubt that your Leaf "barely can do 50miles round trip to work". From the range tests at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=273048#p273048" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=269645#p269645" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;, TonyWilliams determined that a '13 Leaf at a steady 100 kph (~62 mph) can achieve just a tad over 80 miles of range. Power consumption rises considerably as speed increases.

No, your statements really do indicate you didn't do the proper research. There are too many topics to cover such as charging speed situation, electrical situation at home, level 1 vs. level 2 AC charging, DC fast charging (from your earlier statements), 3.3 kW vs. 6 kW on-board charger, the range chart at http://www.mynissanleaf.com/viewtopic.php?p=101293" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; and so on... You could've communicated w/other Leaf drivers and asked questions here and/or on various grassroots Leaf Facebook groups (I'm active on 2 of them), for example.

We also have no clue approx where you live. Can you update your location info via User Control Panel (near top) > Profile (left side)? That way, we don't need to ask in future posts/threads or do sleuthing to deduce it.

In the winter, there will be temporarily reduced battery capacity and other factors will reduce your range in winter (e.g. heater use (power hungry heater in the S and '11 and '12 Leafs), increased rolling friction from wet or snowy/slushy pavement, etc.) Your claims are more believable in below freezing temps with snow on the ground, but again, I still am not sure how you're determining "barely" making it. I have no idea how many miles/kWh you're achieving nor do I know if you're just running the heater too high instead of using heated seats and steering wheel.
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I send you the Q &A. Yes, you are correct this car should do 50miles at least. that's why i took it to Nissan dealer in 5days drive out from dealer ship! i wanted to return it or swap with other car. they blame on me instead....
 
I hear ya gotd77. Luckily I only have two more dreaded months with this car. The car itself is pretty nice, and is actually a great car during the summer. I can easily go 70 + miles while running the a/c with no problems and mine is the 2012 model. I also do have the QC charge port since mine is the SL model, but go ahead and see if you can find a Quick Charging station anywhere around the Cedar Rapids, IA area so that's useless. Nissan failed on the cold part of the year and still hasn't done anything to rectify the situation. They are more focused on the "hot" weather conditions with the new "lizzard" battery, but totally ignore the range loss issues we have on an already extremely limited range car. Bad choice Nissan. An air cooled battery belongs in the south, not the north in winter time and Nissan needs to wake up and realize that. Also I know 120v is the standard here in America, but to make an electric car that charges on 120v "standard" is an absolute joke. Then it's up to you to either have your cord upgraded to 240v or buy a home charging station to get L2 charging. Time to make 240v standard Nissan. 120v is a joke. If special charging equipment needs to be installed to get 240v, then that should either be included with the sale. Time to get caught up with 21st Century Nissan. I also think 2011-2015 all having the exact same battery size is pathetic. Come on Nissan, when are you going to do anything with the range. Yes gotd77, I'm already buying the party supplies for the day I return this POS.
 
CRLeafSL said:
I hear ya gotd77. Luckily I only have two more dreaded months with this car. The car itself is pretty nice, and is actually a great car during the summer. I can easily go 70 + miles while running the a/c with no problems and mine is the 2012 model.
...
but to make an electric car that charges on 120v "standard" is an absolute joke. Then it's up to you to either have your cord upgraded to 240v or buy a home charging station to get L2 charging. Time to make 240v standard Nissan. 120v is a joke. If special charging equipment needs to be installed to get 240v, then that should either be included with the sale. Time to get caught up with 21st Century Nissan. I also think 2011-2015 all having the exact same battery size is pathetic. Come on Nissan, when are you going to do anything with the range. Yes gotd77, I'm already buying the party supplies for the day I return this POS.
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Is there are thread already about people to post their stories (possibly their own or that of others) who unhappy w/the Leaf and/or are/were glad to get rid of theirs? If not, one of us should start one.

I have a story from a colleague who I don't get to talk to that much who couldn't be more glad to get rid of his Leaf. He turned in his leased Leaf early due to range anxiety. Our internal web page said he had a '12 but I think he said he had a '11 a bunch of times. Unfortunately, he didn't talk to me (or some other Leaf enthusiasts) about his situation and I only found out about 1-2 months after he'd already turned in. He replaced it w/a Toyota 4Runner. I have some more details but the details are getting foggier for me, as time goes on...

I do agree that it is very lame (and Nissan's WELL aware of it) that the stock L1 EVSE doesn't support 120 volt charging out of the "box" since it's L1 charging too slow for some.
 
We still have no idea where you LIVE... I've only two suggestions for you:

1) Find another dealer and take the car to them to evaluate. Charge it up completely at the dealership and get a mechanic to take a ride with you. Let him see in person what range your getting. I know your frustrated, but if you go to another dealer you've got to try to tone down the frustration somewhat. That only puts them on the defensive side right off the bat.

2) Get (or borrow) LeafSpy Pro and find out what the real status of your battery is, when it is charged completely.
 
Interesting you mention that. Our local radio ads for Dec 2014 for the Leaf indicated a "L2 charger would be provided." I should'a waited a month. Then again, I saved more in a month (on diesel) then what I paid for the evse upgrade!

cwerdna said:
I do agree that it is very lame (and Nissan's WELL aware of it) that the stock L1 EVSE doesn't support 120 volt charging out of the "box" since it's L1 charging too slow for some.
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recmob said:
Interesting you mention that. Our local radio ads for Dec 2014 for the Leaf indicated a "L2 charger would be provided." I should'a waited a month. Then again, I saved more in a month (on diesel) then what I paid for the evse upgrade!

cwerdna said:
I do agree that it is very lame (and Nissan's WELL aware of it) that the stock L1 EVSE doesn't support 120 volt charging out of the "box" since it's L1 charging too slow for some.
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Interesting... never heard of the above, but a quick Google search turned up this limited time offer for certain markets: http://insideevs.com/nissan-leaf-level-2-charger-giveaway/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
 
I suggest that you get your tire pressure checked and if range is really an issue pump it up higher.

From the dealer I had my car delivered with 30 psi cold. Stock is 38.

Many dealers don't do cold pressure checks because the cars are driven pretty hard by the mechanics first to find out if anything is wrong. The temperature they put into the tires can bump the PSI easily up by 8 or more psi. It's also possible that your car was left inside all night at the dealership charging before the PSI was checked so it was done at indoor temps. Now that it's outside it's lost psi because it's now changed to outside winter temps.

For a proper cold check there are 2 ways to do it, if you have a pump at home first thing in the morning before the noon sun check and fill them up. The easier way is to drive to a gas station and fill to 10 psi over what you want then first thing in the morning let the air out till you're at the psi you want.

On the stock tires 38 psi is what is recommended. They are rated for 44 psi. You can run it all year at 44 psi or if you are a careful driver you can safely go over that, I had my stock tires at 48 psi cold.

Since the cold rating is designed to be safe for the car with 5 people driving hard and fast through a desert the 44 max would in that situation get well above 50 or even 60 psi. If you know that you will only be driving with 1 or 2 people and only be going 65 mph max and never driving hard and it's winter right now then 48 psi cold will never go above 60.

You should also know that new tires, less than 2000 miles don't roll as smoothly. This shouldn't be a big difference but you'd notice maybe 3-5 more miles as they hit 2000 miles.




Someone already mentioned coasting and you have to be sure you are doing that correct. There are 2 ways to do it, 1 put the shifter in Neutral (others advised against it but not sure why, maybe you can try it for a drive first to see if it changes your energy usage), or 2 hold the accelerator so that there is just the single bubble in the dash, no greenish/blueish bubbles to the left (regen) and no extra white bubbles to the right. It's easier to hold if you are in eco mode and if you find it hard to hold you're better off with 1 white bubble to the right on long stretches where you don't plan on stopping at the end and one to the left on stretches where you plan on stopping or slowing down a lot at the end of the coast.



I really wish I was around you because I would gladly meet up and give you a demonstration. I know it sucks to hear from Nissan that it's your driving but to be brutally honest they are probably right. The thing is with any gas car you've always had these same issues they are just masked by the fact that at any time you have usually 2 to 5 times more energy/range in storage and it's so quick and easy to refill that you ignore it. Most modern cars have distance to empty gauges that vary just as much as our Guess o meter does. Because they store so much energy they can also have a safety net and at 50 miles of range left they stop guessing and give you a light advising to fill up. If you bought a car and got 60% of it's EPA MPG in the winter (very easy for some drivers to do) that's the same as you getting 50 miles of 84 posted. It wouldn't even be a complaint because you may not even notice it.



Yes it would have been nice if the DC quick charge was standard but I'd hazard a guess that the profit in the upgrade package is high for the dealers and this is probably the incentive that the dealers have to install and maintain a quick charger. Those things run $16000 to buy so there has to be some profit to be made to convince people to put them in. In Canada the DC charge isn't an option, they sell it on every SV and SL. The S model can't be ordered, they will only bring in low% S models then no more) Not a single Nissan dealer has put a quick charge in. The only 3 around me, Nissan Canada, Mitsubishi Canada and a Power utility building.

You can also upgrade your charger in your car. If you want (it's expensive, $3K-9K) you can add 2x 3x or 4x the charging speed. You can actually have it so that when you go to a public charger you plug 2 J1772 unit handles into the car and charge at 4x the S speed (2x the SV SL speed). I hope that the price of external chargers comes down in a few years if I decide to keep the leaf 10 years, or another quick charger pops up at the half way point of my drive. For that price now I think there's no point in doing it while I have warrantee and tow service. I would hope for 2x the charge speed for $2000 or less in a few years.
 
CRLeafSL said:
I hear ya gotd77. Luckily I only have two more dreaded months with this car. The car itself is pretty nice, and is actually a great car during the summer. I can easily go 70 + miles while running the a/c with no problems and mine is the 2012 model. I also do have the QC charge port since mine is the SL model, but go ahead and see if you can find a Quick Charging station anywhere around the Cedar Rapids, IA area so that's useless. Nissan failed on the cold part of the year and still hasn't done anything to rectify the situation. They are more focused on the "hot" weather conditions with the new "lizzard" battery, but totally ignore the range loss issues we have on an already extremely limited range car. Bad choice Nissan. An air cooled battery belongs in the south, not the north in winter time and Nissan needs to wake up and realize that. Also I know 120v is the standard here in America, but to make an electric car that charges on 120v "standard" is an absolute joke. Then it's up to you to either have your cord upgraded to 240v or buy a home charging station to get L2 charging. Time to make 240v standard Nissan. 120v is a joke. If special charging equipment needs to be installed to get 240v, then that should either be included with the sale. Time to get caught up with 21st Century Nissan. I also think 2011-2015 all having the exact same battery size is pathetic. Come on Nissan, when are you going to do anything with the range. Yes gotd77, I'm already buying the party supplies for the day I return this POS.
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Great news finally you are off the hook!. congrats!!
There are many DC 440V charging stations on my route on the way and back to work and home but mine doesn't even have Quick charge capability. I wish I had one so I have no fear to use A/C or Heat on the road. I never used one after I had to call Nissan road side assistance on the road. All I need is comfortably commute to work 25 miles each way...my car can't do... very sad. I have tried public L2 charge other day. I realized that my leaf is not 6kw onboard. you might need a sleeping bag in your car and charge at public station. it is totally useless going public station with out QC. if I stop on the road, only hope is road assistant. that's it. what are you planning to get one for your self next? :D
 
cwerdna said:
CRLeafSL said:
I hear ya gotd77. Luckily I only have two more dreaded months with this car. The car itself is pretty nice, and is actually a great car during the summer. I can easily go 70 + miles while running the a/c with no problems and mine is the 2012 model.
...
but to make an electric car that charges on 120v "standard" is an absolute joke. Then it's up to you to either have your cord upgraded to 240v or buy a home charging station to get L2 charging. Time to make 240v standard Nissan. 120v is a joke. If special charging equipment needs to be installed to get 240v, then that should either be included with the sale. Time to get caught up with 21st Century Nissan. I also think 2011-2015 all having the exact same battery size is pathetic. Come on Nissan, when are you going to do anything with the range. Yes gotd77, I'm already buying the party supplies for the day I return this POS.
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Is there are thread already about people to post their stories (possibly their own or that of others) who unhappy w/the Leaf and/or are/were glad to get rid of theirs? If not, one of us should start one.

I have a story from a colleague who I don't get to talk to that much who couldn't be more glad to get rid of his Leaf. He turned in his leased Leaf early due to range anxiety. Our internal web page said he had a '12 but I think he said he had a '11 a bunch of times. Unfortunately, he didn't talk to me (or some other Leaf enthusiasts) about his situation and I only found out about 1-2 months after he'd already turned in. He replaced it w/a Toyota 4Runner. I have some more details but the details are getting foggier for me, as time goes on...

I do agree that it is very lame (and Nissan's WELL aware of it) that the stock L1 EVSE doesn't support 120 volt charging out of the "box" since it's L1 charging too slow for some.
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yes, L1 doesn't give anyone a happy life. unless you are perfectly fit with the car's life not the car fit for your life. problem is sales dude never tell you about this. I found out my car was one that last one that sales dude had to sell for the month and he lie bunch to me and sugar coated and convince me to believe me that L1 S model can do every thing that I want. after 5days I drove it I realized that this leaf won't work for me and I try to turn it in then Nissan ask me to pay for entire lease. no responsible for anything. I am stuck. very bad manor.
 
recmob said:
We still have no idea where you LIVE... I've only two suggestions for you:

1) Find another dealer and take the car to them to evaluate. Charge it up completely at the dealership and get a mechanic to take a ride with you. Let him see in person what range your getting. I know your frustrated, but if you go to another dealer you've got to try to tone down the frustration somewhat. That only puts them on the defensive side right off the bat.

2) Get (or borrow) LeafSpy Pro and find out what the real status of your battery is, when it is charged completely.
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Thank you for your advise...
I am already cool off...with range problems I ended up spend so much money to install 240V station at home so I can come home and 100% charge next day. what really mad me was I another issues and Nissan treated me like stupid bad guy and all they say is you car is normal. How am I determined what they did in the back with my car and where is standard showing normal?? I feel not comfortable and my wife feel the same way. I compare with other vehicles and other ones don't do that so...I address the issues over time. they keep saying our data shows your car is normal. What the heck?? all I can say is ok I will take it back home. I have not tried other dealer ship yet...kind a far from my house and since I don't have a QC so if I spend that far distance and I might have to leave my car there or spend whole day to charge full to come back. this is ridiculous.
Leafspy, I heard that good tool. now if I prove my leaf is not perform as they advertise on that device, will they take my car back? or fix it?? if not then what's to point doing that? I can try to just gauge my self to not to go too far...that's it I guess. Again, thanks for advise.
 
recmob said:
Interesting you mention that. Our local radio ads for Dec 2014 for the Leaf indicated a "L2 charger would be provided." I should'a waited a month. Then again, I saved more in a month (on diesel) then what I paid for the evse upgrade!

cwerdna said:
I do agree that it is very lame (and Nissan's WELL aware of it) that the stock L1 EVSE doesn't support 120 volt charging out of the "box" since it's L1 charging too slow for some.
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yup yup... well...I had little knowledge about L1, L2 before I walked to the dealer ship and I was expect them to explain all that. all they answer me was L1 is 110V and L2 is 240V and long as I have 110V at home im good to go!!! that all most sounded like L2 was an optional that you are in place where 110v is not available then you can use L2 240V so you have move choice they told me that way. no no L2 is must item and they should have told me L2 is charge you faster and make my life easier. if you don't have L2 availability then that's too bad but you still can charge with L1 110V. I think this is how Nissan should tell customer before bring the paper to Sign. to be honest and fair with everyone.
 
cwerdna said:
recmob said:
Interesting you mention that. Our local radio ads for Dec 2014 for the Leaf indicated a "L2 charger would be provided." I should'a waited a month. Then again, I saved more in a month (on diesel) then what I paid for the evse upgrade!

cwerdna said:
I do agree that it is very lame (and Nissan's WELL aware of it) that the stock L1 EVSE doesn't support 120 volt charging out of the "box" since it's L1 charging too slow for some.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
Interesting... never heard of the above, but a quick Google search turned up this limited time offer for certain markets: http://insideevs.com/nissan-leaf-level-2-charger-giveaway/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;.
Click to expand...

I met one guy at the charging station, he told me when he leased his EV two years ago every Leaf he saw had QC onboard and every customer had L2 charging station give away deal. plus lease was same as now. I think that sounds more reliable and realistic. for me I pay same amount what he pays and leave out all the other options like NO! L2, NO! QC. so All I had was 18hr charge at home. that's not going to give any one happy life and no realistic.
 
cwerdna said:
^^^
Can you post the answers or can I post your (incomplete) answers for you?
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Gotd77,
This was directed at you. Or, I could just post your private message to me without your permission. It's more helpful that your answers be posted so that multiple folks can reply/attempt to help than to do it via a PM between us two.
 
minispeed said:
I suggest that you get your tire pressure checked and if range is really an issue pump it up higher.

From the dealer I had my car delivered with 30 psi cold. Stock is 38.

Many dealers don't do cold pressure checks because the cars are driven pretty hard by the mechanics first to find out if anything is wrong. The temperature they put into the tires can bump the PSI easily up by 8 or more psi. It's also possible that your car was left inside all night at the dealership charging before the PSI was checked so it was done at indoor temps. Now that it's outside it's lost psi because it's now changed to outside winter temps.

For a proper cold check there are 2 ways to do it, if you have a pump at home first thing in the morning before the noon sun check and fill them up. The easier way is to drive to a gas station and fill to 10 psi over what you want then first thing in the morning let the air out till you're at the psi you want.

On the stock tires 38 psi is what is recommended. They are rated for 44 psi. You can run it all year at 44 psi or if you are a careful driver you can safely go over that, I had my stock tires at 48 psi cold.

Since the cold rating is designed to be safe for the car with 5 people driving hard and fast through a desert the 44 max would in that situation get well above 50 or even 60 psi. If you know that you will only be driving with 1 or 2 people and only be going 65 mph max and never driving hard and it's winter right now then 48 psi cold will never go above 60.

You should also know that new tires, less than 2000 miles don't roll as smoothly. This shouldn't be a big difference but you'd notice maybe 3-5 more miles as they hit 2000 miles.




Someone already mentioned coasting and you have to be sure you are doing that correct. There are 2 ways to do it, 1 put the shifter in Neutral (others advised against it but not sure why, maybe you can try it for a drive first to see if it changes your energy usage), or 2 hold the accelerator so that there is just the single bubble in the dash, no greenish/blueish bubbles to the left (regen) and no extra white bubbles to the right. It's easier to hold if you are in eco mode and if you find it hard to hold you're better off with 1 white bubble to the right on long stretches where you don't plan on stopping at the end and one to the left on stretches where you plan on stopping or slowing down a lot at the end of the coast.



I really wish I was around you because I would gladly meet up and give you a demonstration. I know it sucks to hear from Nissan that it's your driving but to be brutally honest they are probably right. The thing is with any gas car you've always had these same issues they are just masked by the fact that at any time you have usually 2 to 5 times more energy/range in storage and it's so quick and easy to refill that you ignore it. Most modern cars have distance to empty gauges that vary just as much as our Guess o meter does. Because they store so much energy they can also have a safety net and at 50 miles of range left they stop guessing and give you a light advising to fill up. If you bought a car and got 60% of it's EPA MPG in the winter (very easy for some drivers to do) that's the same as you getting 50 miles of 84 posted. It wouldn't even be a complaint because you may not even notice it.



Yes it would have been nice if the DC quick charge was standard but I'd hazard a guess that the profit in the upgrade package is high for the dealers and this is probably the incentive that the dealers have to install and maintain a quick charger. Those things run $16000 to buy so there has to be some profit to be made to convince people to put them in. In Canada the DC charge isn't an option, they sell it on every SV and SL. The S model can't be ordered, they will only bring in low% S models then no more) Not a single Nissan dealer has put a quick charge in. The only 3 around me, Nissan Canada, Mitsubishi Canada and a Power utility building.

You can also upgrade your charger in your car. If you want (it's expensive, $3K-9K) you can add 2x 3x or 4x the charging speed. You can actually have it so that when you go to a public charger you plug 2 J1772 unit handles into the car and charge at 4x the S speed (2x the SV SL speed). I hope that the price of external chargers comes down in a few years if I decide to keep the leaf 10 years, or another quick charger pops up at the half way point of my drive. For that price now I think there's no point in doing it while I have warrantee and tow service. I would hope for 2x the charge speed for $2000 or less in a few years.
Click to expand...
thank you for your help and spend some time for me!
I ended up spend more money than I was plan to save! I should have just lease Honda civic again. I am really good at saving fuel. my last Honda, I was holding 39-41 mpg. that's pretty good! you know that.
so I know how to drive. May be little different in EV but I guess concepts are same.

For the EVSE? I already spend lots of money to install dedicated 240V line at home to be able to commute to work. it gives me a full charge every morning. still when I get home I have 20% below left. some times get low battery lights on. that just 25miles each way. I promise I don't deviate or I don't stop any where else. just home to work and work to home. Nissan kept saying my car is normal. really? 50 miles? yes I gave up fighting with Nissan. I know they don't care...

I will try to put some air into tires.

thank you!!
 
cwerdna said:
cwerdna said:
^^^
Can you post the answers or can I post your (incomplete) answers for you?
Click to expand...
Gotd77,
This was directed at you. Or, I could just post your private message to me without your permission. It's more helpful that your answers be posted so that multiple folks can reply/attempt to help than to do it via a PM between us two.
Click to expand...

sure you can. thank you
 
Ok. I've included my responses in bold, prefixed by C..
gotd77 via private message said:
- Where are you? Georgia
- Where are you traveling to? Work Via what route? I-85
- How fast are you driving? 50-60 m/h What % is city 50% vs. highway 50%?
- What is your miles/kWh reading on the dash? (on the black and white display) Is it reset for every trip? If not, please do so. C: Please reset the miles/kWh display at the beginning of each leg of the trip (e.g. before departing home and before departing from work), making a note of the value at the end of each leg. Report back here.
- How full are you charging to? before i upgrade my home charge...it was 15hr charge and it goes 100% C: And now? You start with 100% per the SoC meter?
- How are you "determining" your range? low battery sign many times C: More info please. What % state of charge is indicated on the black and white display on the dash? 1st LBW (Low Battery Warning) usually occurs around 17-18% SoC. VLBW (Very LBW) usually happens ~7-9%. Turtle happens sometime after VLBW, I've heard 1-2% but I've never witnessed it. I've had mine go from 6% (IIRC) to --- % :eek:, but never saw turtle, fortunately.
- How many temperature bars (left side) are shown at the start of the drive and during? 4
- What are your cold tire pressures? it is brand new car so should be standard C: Please check your COLD tire pressures. They could be under or overinflated now or even when you took possession. Please see earlier suggestions given in this thread on tire pressure.
- Can this experience be reliably repeated? it's been there since day 1.
- After how many months of ownership did you first experience the range loss? day 5
- Outside air temps when this is happening? any time/ doesn't matter cold or hot C: It does matter. Please tell us current typical starting and ending outside air temps for the two legs of your trip.
- How are you using the heater/AC system? not use....scare to use actually to being stop on the road. C: So, both Heat and AC lights are not on?
- When cold, are you using the heated seats and steering wheel? no no no....... C: If you're cold, you ought to. Neither draw much power and it's more efficient to heat the seats and wheel than the cabin.
- Did you buy the vehicle new or used and when? NEW (month and year is enough) What model year is it? 2015 S model
- How many capacity bars have you lost? down to two. They're the thin bars on the very right of wiki/index.php?title=Battery_Capacity_Loss. That one shows 3 capacity bars lost. C: So, no capacity bars lost, right? I wouldn't expect any yet.
- Any changes to car from stock (different tires, bike rack, Texas cattle horns, roof rack, flags, etc)? no it is standard
- (If you have a gid meter) Gid count at 100% charge? Date and outside temp when taken? yes C: That wasn't an answer. If you get LeafSpy (Pro?), you can tell us gid counts.
Click to expand...

For the benefit of others so they don't have to delete out my responses.
gotd77 via private message said:
Where are you? Georgia
- Where are you traveling to? Work Via what route? I-85

- How fast are you driving? 50-60 m/h What % is city 50% vs. highway 50%?
- What is your miles/kWh reading on the dash? (on the black and white display) Is it reset for every trip? If not, please do so.
- How full are you charging to? before i upgrade my home charge...it was 15hr charge and it goes 100%

- How are you "determining" your range? low battery sign many times
- How many temperature bars (left side) are shown at the start of the drive and during? 4
- What are your cold tire pressures? it is brand new car so should be standard
- Can this experience be reliably repeated? it's been there since day 1.
- After how many months of ownership did you first experience the range loss? day 5
- Outside air temps when this is happening? any time/ doesn't matter cold or hot
- How are you using the heater/AC system? not use....scare to use actually to being stop on the road.
- When cold, are you using the heated seats and steering wheel? no no no.......
- Did you buy the vehicle new or used and when? NEW (month and year is enough) What model year is it? 2015 S model
- How many capacity bars have you lost? down to two. They're the thin bars on the very right of wiki/index.php?title=Battery_Capacity_Loss. That one shows 3 capacity bars lost.
- Any changes to car from stock (different tires, bike rack, Texas cattle horns, roof rack, flags, etc)? no it is standard
- (If you have a gid meter) Gid count at 100% charge? Date and outside temp when taken? yes
Click to expand...
 
minispeed said:
(snip...)
Someone already mentioned coasting and you have to be sure you are doing that correct. There are 2 ways to do it, 1 put the shifter in Neutral (others advised against it but not sure why, maybe you can try it for a drive first to see if it changes your energy usage), or 2 hold the accelerator so that there is just the single bubble in the dash, no greenish/blueish bubbles to the left (regen) and no extra white bubbles to the right. It's easier to hold if you are in eco mode and if you find it hard to hold you're better off with 1 white bubble to the right on long stretches where you don't plan on stopping at the end and one to the left on stretches where you plan on stopping or slowing down a lot at the end of the coast.
(snip...)
Click to expand...
Thanks for the advice. Most of what you posted that I didn't quote is spot on.

Re: not driving in neutral, it's illegal in many states and potentially dangerous. I don't want to get into an argument/rehash points on this but, here's an example: http://www.mercurynews.com/mr-roadshow/ci_25868854/roadshow-despite-dry-conditions-some-drivers-flip-cigarette" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Google for illegal drive neutral and illegal drive neutral georgia, for example.
 

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