smkettner
Well-known member
Thanks!TEG said:
Blink / Rav4 Blows Out a Contactor Pin (with gory pics)
- Thread starter TonyWilliams
- Start date
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walterbays
Well-known member
And if this is how robust the SAE J1772 standard is for conducting 30A / 7.2 kW, it doesn't give a lot of confidence in the SAE Frankenplug standard for conducting 50 kW. And I just hope that none of those CHAdeMO connectors melt.drees said:
fooljoe
Well-known member
Wow, this sucks. Sorry you had to experience this, Tony.
So at this point do we think that the cause for this is the Rav4's inlet or Blink's Jplug or both? I.e., what I'm really asking is who's paying for the repairs, Toyota or Blink or both? (hopefully not you!) And what, if any, assurances will there be that it won't happen again? Presuming this is a design flaw and not just a defective unit, and presuming Toyota replaces their inlet with the same part and Blink replaces their Jplug with the same part, won't it just happen again?
So at this point do we think that the cause for this is the Rav4's inlet or Blink's Jplug or both? I.e., what I'm really asking is who's paying for the repairs, Toyota or Blink or both? (hopefully not you!) And what, if any, assurances will there be that it won't happen again? Presuming this is a design flaw and not just a defective unit, and presuming Toyota replaces their inlet with the same part and Blink replaces their Jplug with the same part, won't it just happen again?
Ingineer
Well-known member
CHAdeMO has thermal monitoring in the connector housing to spot problems before they occur.walterbays said:
The "Fix" for the J1772 melting is to also implement thermal monitoring. Apparently the Honda Fit EV has it. It should be a low-cost addition, and I recommend it for any car pulling over 30A.
-Phil
TomT
Well-known member
Do you know if the monitoring system throttles back the power level when it detects heating, or does it shut the system down entirely?
Ingineer said:
grommet
Well-known member
The Fit EV stops the charge.
smkettner
Well-known member
Will it resart when back in range or is it an error that must be reset manually?
Herm
Well-known member
Ingineer said:
They should also monitor the temperature of the 120V plug in the standard EVSE.. cant be that expensive to implement.
garygid
Well-known member
Just a few parts could make a circuit to pull the pilot
down to the Error level, so that the EVSE should turn
off the AC Power to the car.
What temperature should activate the over-temp cutoff?
What temperature activates the LEAF Chademo temp-cutoff?
Something like 180 or 200 degrees F?
down to the Error level, so that the EVSE should turn
off the AC Power to the car.
What temperature should activate the over-temp cutoff?
What temperature activates the LEAF Chademo temp-cutoff?
Something like 180 or 200 degrees F?
grommet
Well-known member
It's off until the connector is removed and plugged back in.smkettner said:
TonyWilliams
Well-known member
garygid said:
For the EVSE in my garage, I could just epoxy the thermistor around the perimeter of the "nozzle". I would guess some temp slightly above the hottest it gets in my garage.
For the car, I really don't know a good place to put a thermistor.
You'd probably want it a bit hotter than that, but it might take some experimentation to find the ideal temp. Depending on how well the connector conducts heat, you probably want it somewhere between 120-140F as a trigger point - maybe even higher - the connector itself is most likely rated to at least 90C (194F) if not 105C (221F).TonyWilliams said:
garygid
Well-known member
The power pins come through the socket that is mounted
inside your car. Right between those pins would be
the best place, I suspect.
With some effort, one can see what was done
for the thermal protection on the Chademo socket.
That is the best place to put the protection,
so that the car better protects itself against
the aggressive outside world.
inside your car. Right between those pins would be
the best place, I suspect.
With some effort, one can see what was done
for the thermal protection on the Chademo socket.
That is the best place to put the protection,
so that the car better protects itself against
the aggressive outside world.
garygid
Well-known member
Perhaps the J1772 spec was loosely worded so that
those using the spec might more easily make mistakes?
Possibly the connector was designed to be minimal,
with the intent of demonstrating that EVs are unreliable.
Both of these could have been planned by bright
people who have an interest in oil and ICEs.
They might want to see EVs fail, or at least stagger greatly.
those using the spec might more easily make mistakes?
Possibly the connector was designed to be minimal,
with the intent of demonstrating that EVs are unreliable.
Both of these could have been planned by bright
people who have an interest in oil and ICEs.
They might want to see EVs fail, or at least stagger greatly.
garygid
Well-known member
How does the humanoid joke go?
"I'm from the Government, I'm here to help you. " :lol:
We have a similar joke (child pretending to kill a plant):
"Look, mom, I'm a Humanoid!" :lol: :lol: :lol:
Wow, my Radiation must be kicking in!!!
"I'm from the Government, I'm here to help you. " :lol:
We have a similar joke (child pretending to kill a plant):
"Look, mom, I'm a Humanoid!" :lol: :lol: :lol:
Wow, my Radiation must be kicking in!!!
TonyWilliams
Well-known member
garygid said:
Yes, the car mounted thermister is the beast place to protect the car. I'm worried about the house.
davewill
Well-known member
Unless you're in the habit of having lots of guest cars using your EVSE, I'd think protecting the car WOULD protect the house.TonyWilliams said:
Ingineer
Well-known member
Here's a quick how-to: (WARNING: This may void warranties, set fire to your cat, and cause the end of the world. The whole time pissing off the lawyers, so DO NOT perform this modification unless you are FULLY QUALIFIED!)
Order 2 of these thermostats:
Take out your J1772 inlet on your car, remove the weather boot, and ziptie one of the above thermostats to each of the two main AC wires with the tab end as close to the inlet as practical. The AC lines are the top 2 heavy connections on the inlet. Use high-quality (3M) electrical tape wrapped all around these and it's associated wire such to insure heat is conducted into the thermostat. (Use at least 8 layers of tape) The copper wiring will conduct heat quite well to the thermostats if done in this manner.
Locate the proximity line, it is the one connected the small pin on the lower right if viewing the inlet from the front side where you would connect to it. Cut it at a suitable location at least a few inches away from the inlet and install a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor across the break. I recommend 1 watt not because of the power, but because of it's mechanical robustness. Wire both of the thermostats in series with each other, and then connect them across the 330 ohm resistor (the two series thermostats will be wired like an "M" and then the two ends of the "M" will be connected to each end of the resistor which is where the proximity line is also connected.) I recommend soldered connections covered using high-quality glue-flow type heatshrink. Plan the heatshrink in advance before doing any soldering.
Now if either of the current-carrying connectors get much over 70C, charging will halt until they cool off, at which time it will resume. This will protect your inlet from catastrophic failure. The resistor insures the car still "sees" the J-plug inserted, but will disable current flow.
-Phil
Order 2 of these thermostats:
Take out your J1772 inlet on your car, remove the weather boot, and ziptie one of the above thermostats to each of the two main AC wires with the tab end as close to the inlet as practical. The AC lines are the top 2 heavy connections on the inlet. Use high-quality (3M) electrical tape wrapped all around these and it's associated wire such to insure heat is conducted into the thermostat. (Use at least 8 layers of tape) The copper wiring will conduct heat quite well to the thermostats if done in this manner.
Locate the proximity line, it is the one connected the small pin on the lower right if viewing the inlet from the front side where you would connect to it. Cut it at a suitable location at least a few inches away from the inlet and install a 330 ohm 1 watt resistor across the break. I recommend 1 watt not because of the power, but because of it's mechanical robustness. Wire both of the thermostats in series with each other, and then connect them across the 330 ohm resistor (the two series thermostats will be wired like an "M" and then the two ends of the "M" will be connected to each end of the resistor which is where the proximity line is also connected.) I recommend soldered connections covered using high-quality glue-flow type heatshrink. Plan the heatshrink in advance before doing any soldering.
Now if either of the current-carrying connectors get much over 70C, charging will halt until they cool off, at which time it will resume. This will protect your inlet from catastrophic failure. The resistor insures the car still "sees" the J-plug inserted, but will disable current flow.
-Phil
davewill
Well-known member
If I understand this mod, when over temp it will act as if you pressed the trigger, causing the on-board charger to stop drawing current, but will not open the relays in the EVSE? Any worries about compromising weather resistance?Ingineer said:
smkettner
Well-known member
That was covered in the "set fire to the cat" warning.
