HOW TO: Make the VSP (noisemaker) button default to off

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Phil,

Can you explain the function of pin 3 in your circuit.
I am guessing it resets it by discharging the cap but I don't know where pin 3 goes and when it gets reset.....

Thanks
 
For those interested: I successfully disabled VSP on my 2012 SL using Phil's drawn-out analog circuit.

My ears are much happier in the garage now... it was really rubbing on me every time I pulled in and out of the (large shared) garage.
 
Even though they removed the button in MY2012, I suspect it's just the physical button that was removed. Which means, as you've found, these tricks would still work. In fact, I'd hazard a guess you could even wire a button back in if you're so inclined. I can't verify any of it though as I have a MY2011.
 
iluvmacs said:
For those interested: I successfully disabled VSP on my 2012 SL using Phil's drawn-out analog circuit.

My ears are much happier in the garage now... it was really rubbing on me every time I pulled in and out of the (large shared) garage.
Click to expand...


Any chance you took step by step pictures for those of us that aren't as electrically inclined? :)
 
GeekEV said:
Even though they removed the button in MY2012, I suspect it's just the physical button that was removed. Which means, as you've found, these tricks would still work. In fact, I'd hazard a guess you could even wire a button back in if you're so inclined. I can't verify any of it though as I have a MY2011.
Click to expand...

I thought about putting a button in as well, but at least at the moment, I haven't, since I can't think of any time I'd *want* the VSP on. I may put one in at some point, though it wouldn't be located anywhere terribly convenient...

I was hoping the harness connection for the button was still present, but alas, it is not. Even the wire on pin 5 in the VSP ECU's harness is gone... So the only way to reconnect something is to acquire a pin to put on a wire, or (as I did) solder to the PCB inside.
 
HankHillNeedsALeaf said:
iluvmacs said:
For those interested: I successfully disabled VSP on my 2012 SL using Phil's drawn-out analog circuit.

My ears are much happier in the garage now... it was really rubbing on me every time I pulled in and out of the (large shared) garage.
Click to expand...


Any chance you took step by step pictures for those of us that aren't as electrically inclined? :)
Click to expand...

No, I took a picture of the finished product, which is a small prototype PCB with the components soldered on, and 4 wires connecting into the VSP ECU. I don't really have anywhere to post it, unfortunately...

I did this using the pics earlier in this thread on disassembling the dash to get to the VSP ECU, and Phil's drawing (also in this thread). If you're not comfortable doing the mod based on those items, I'd probably say it's "not for you". :| I'm an electrical engineer with experience working in cars, so it was a piece of cake for me. An "electrical inclination", as you say, is requisite for this mod. :ugeek:
 
iluvmacs said:
I took a picture of the finished product...I don't really have anywhere to post it, unfortunately...
Click to expand...
There are tons of photo sharing sites you can post them to, or social media sites, facebook, twitpics... The tool like for online sharing is dropbox. You can sharing anything you like (within the size limits).
 
OK, here we go.

The circuit on the perf board PCB:
vsp1.jpg

There are no wires on the underside of it. The 3 bus-strips on the edge were enough to do the node connections in the circuit.
I used a 2N3904 transistor, 1N4004 diodes, & a 4.7µF cap, as that was what I could find in the parts bin at work :D.
As for wires... Black: GND (pin 1), Red: +12V (pin 11), Orange: power button (pin 3), Blue: VSP off button (pin 5).

The PCB taped to the VSP ECU (2 layers of electrical tape under it to prevent shorts):
vsp2.jpg

The wires going in are soldered directly to the pins of the harness connector on the PCB. Nothing fancy there.
 
Forgive me if this is a stupid question but, why not just cut one of the wires to the speaker and then connect that wire to a new switch? That way when you want sound, you just flip the switch. Would that work?
 
In principle that would work - assuming that the VSP sounds are the only thing ever sent to the speaker over those wires. If it's not, you'll be disabling unintended things too. But if that's true (and it probably is), in the case of the 2011 model, there's already a switch integrated into the dash so we wanted to make use of that. In the case of a 2012 - if you're planning on installing a switch anyway, your approach should work just fine. If you're not planning on installing a switch, you may as well just cut the wire.
 
I just want to avoid having to press a button every time I start the car. I would only need to throw the switch when I need it to make a sound. I really don't need to hear the beep for charging, because you can see it is charging. And you can hear the doors lock when you press lock on the key fob. So to me, this seems to be the easiest option. ...if it works.
 
Ok, I can't take it anymore. The backup beeping is driving me crazy/embarrassing me in public. I've looked over the instruction for reversing the switch (holy SUPER DIFFICULT Batman!) and considered the "just cut the wire" solution (don't want to get that drastic just yet).
Is there ANY possibility of just "restoring the switch" for MY2012 owners? I don't have any electrical engineering skills but am willing to try with some instructions and/or photo walk throughs.

Basically, is there a simple way to add a switch back in to allow the VSP to be disabled for MY2012 (assuming all the wiring is still present and they just removed the switch) ?
 
HankHillNeedsALeaf said:
Basically, is there a simple way to add a switch back in to allow the VSP to be disabled for MY2012 (assuming all the wiring is still present and they just removed the switch) ?
Click to expand...
Using the pin diagram on step 4 of the OP, you should be able to splice in a button between pin 1 (black wire) & pin 5 (green wire). You would want to use a "normally open SPST momentary" switch/button. As I don't have a MY2012, I can't test this for you so YMMV. :D

Let us know if it works!




EDIT: Edited type of button needed to be more specific and indicate it should be a momentary switch.
 
gkalexdc said:
Wow Phil !! Im glad I didnt try THAT hack !! :lol: So here is the report youve all been waiting for: The LEAF is back from the dealer after it had a stroke after my hack. This is from the ticket, typo's and all:
LINE 51
Customer states T/M malfunction light is on:
p189D / P0571 / U1000 SHIFT CONTROL UNIT #12 FUSE SOCKET LOOSE
TENSION HAS WEAK CONTACT CAUSE NO POWER TO CONTROL UNIT
TRACE WIRE FROM CONTROL UNIT TO FUSE AND BRAKE SWITCH FOUND
LINE 52
CUSTOMER STATES I KEY MALFUNCTION LIGHT IS ON
SEE LINE 51

CUSTOMER STATES THE 3 LIGHTS DONT COME ON WHILE CHARGING PLEASE ASVISE MAKE SURE LIGHTS ARE WORKING THE WAY ITS SUPPOSE.
BLOW FUSE
PUT NEW FUSE AND CHECK SOCKET TIGHT AND SECURE

And FYI, the Engineer said to the Service advisor that the shift control unit has some problems with the connections that "just come loose with time" and there were two examples of this exact problem in all the leafs produced so far. Just 2. The service advisor said the brake switch was the main problem, then the computer wouldnt clear the codes after the correction. They wanted the original computer to take with them. My bad eyesight arranged for a daring attempt at checking the fuses, to wit, I put ONE in crooked, and one was actually blown. .... That I missed. Im only 57 !! Of course, I just had my Lasik, and its great, but Im not all the way healed. What a geriatric I am !! LOL ~~ !!!!! ;) Good luck with all your hacks everyone. Hope you all can get that dam VSP OFF on the later Leafs....
Click to expand...

Love this thread!! Just read thru all of it, and gkalexdc's odyssey is what kept me reading! But....gkalexdc, you didn't finish your story! So did you continue and got your VSP modded and working? I really hope so, after all you've gone through...can't give up!
 
If someone is willing to come by my shop in the East Bay Area (Berkeley) with their 2012, I will be happy to test whether a simple switch can be added and still preserve the reverse beeps.

Knowing what I know about how Nissan/Toyota implement wiring harnesses, I seriously doubt it's as easy as plugging in the switch. You'll have to (at the very least) run a wire.

If the VSP module is the same, my circuit (described above) will still shut off the woosh/backup noises, but leave the other beeps.

All these questions can be quickly answered in a few minutes looking at a 2012.

-Phil
 
I just killed the noise using Phil's circuit. It works great in my 2012 SL. The photos earlier in the thread helped in locating the module. Its really tucked up out of the way.

As an ancient 2 way radio tech flying leads offend my construction sense so I mounted everything on a tiny piece of vector board and double sided taped it on top of the processor chip.
 
GlennD said:
I just killed the noise using Phil's circuit.
Click to expand...
Thanks Glenn! Well now we know; The 2012 VSP does run the same code and can have a VSP disable switch (or my circuit) added to it. The problem with the switch, is you must hit it everytime you turn on the car.

-Phil
 

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