Does timed heat really run off the house?

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Limey

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 5, 2013
Messages
149
So I have been watching this for a while now, because I have noticed that whenever I have the timed heat set to run in the morning, my battery is never at 100% (its always close at 98% or so). Now, if I have it off, it will always read 100%.

So the question being, does it really run off the house or does it run off the car which it expects to quickly recharge?
 
Limey said:
So I have been watching this for a while now, because I have noticed that whenever I have the timed heat set to run in the morning, my battery is never at 100% (its always close at 98% or so). Now, if I have it off, it will always read 100%.

So the question being, does it really run off the house or does it run off the car which it expects to quickly recharge?

It does run off the house but the resistance heater uses more heat than it can draw from the EVSE so it also uses some of the battery. Last winter I was charging at a public 240 station and running the heat used more power than I got for recharging the battery so actually lost a range bar on the GOM.
 
I would think the new Leafs with the 6.6kw charger should be able to run entirely off of mains power, and still have enough left over to charge the battery if needed.

My 2011 uses more than 3.3Kw when initially starting the heater, so a small amount is drawn from the battery. But after a few minutes when the car starts to get warmed up, the power draw starts to go down.
 
adric22 said:
I would think the new Leafs with the 6.6kw charger should be able to run entirely off of mains power, and still have enough left over to charge the battery if needed.

My 2011 uses more than 3.3Kw when initially starting the heater, so a small amount is drawn from the battery. But after a few minutes when the car starts to get warmed up, the power draw starts to go down.


The 6.6kw is only an option on the S model, so I only have the 3.3 (no quick charging for me).

Next time I will be shelling out for the bigger, better, deal.
 
The heater and ac run off 400 volts, not 120/240. When you run the pre-heat/cool function on the Leaf, the computer turns on the connection between the main battery pack and the heater, at the same time as turning on the charger. So, if the car is connected to a 6 kw EVSE station, the charger (which is inside the car) is able to keep up with the draw from the battery, and the battery will stay completely charged.

If you use the L1 120 v EVSE "brick" that comes with the car, you will drain the battery some during pre-heat

If you charge at 3.3 kw, it is a toss up, may stay fully charged or may discharge the battery a little.
 
stjohnh said:
If you use the L1 120 v EVSE "brick" that comes with the car, you will drain the battery some during pre-heat

That is likely what is happening here. Back on Jan 23 he was asking about 240 volt EVSE's.
 
In actuallity, it does NOT pull directly off the house, that would require additional wires in the car, basicly wiring from the on board charger and the inverter and going directly to the heat/cool instead of the OBC, inverter, battery then heat/cool (current set up).

So the heat/cool pulls directly from the battery and the incoming power from the house recharges the battery as its being depleted. If the power draw is too much to keep up the battery remains slightly deficient and hence the lower SoC. This is also proven with the Leaf Spy app tapping into the # of Level 1/Level 2 charges, if you preheat after the car has been full (either 80% or 100%), the car counts it as another charging event (pretty sure unless I was seeing something else on that #).

In addition if it was running directly off the home power, it would just use less when the car had reach the target temperature, but if you had set your car at 80% charge and you preheat/cool and you reach your temperature and use less power, the car will keep charging the battery (at full power) until you stop the preheat/cool, which could leave your battery at a greater than 80% capacity.

This is actually quite contrary to Nissan's statements of "not top off the battery" but "preheat/cool to get greater range" You can't have both.
 
RonDawg said:
stjohnh said:
If you use the L1 120 v EVSE "brick" that comes with the car, you will drain the battery some during pre-heat

That is likely what is happening here. Back on Jan 23 he was asking about 240 volt EVSE's.


correct. I just use the level 1 charger that comes with the car. haven't had a need to step up to the level 2, but they are getting cheap enough where it can be worth it.
 
In our MY2013 SL with 240v EVSE we always charge to 80%. However my wife likes a warm car when she goes to work in the mornings. It may be in the 70's during the day, but at night it gets down to 40's and 50's. The garage will still be in the 60's, but she still wants the heat.

Therefore we set the climate control to be ready by 7:00 am when she leaves for work. The charge function turns on when the heater does, so it is usually up to about 85% charge when she gets into the car at 7am. From this I know that the heater uses LESS energy than the EVSE is supplying to the Leaf.
 
Limey said:
correct. I just use the level 1 charger that comes with the car. haven't had a need to step up to the level 2, but they are getting cheap enough where it can be worth it.
The level 1 EVSE doesn't supply enough power to preheat the LEAF well in a cold climate, so it draws down the battery some. You will get much better preheating results when you get a Level 2 EVSE. Even with the 3.3 kW charger on your S model (which is the same as what those of us with 2011/2012 LEAFs have) it will preheat fine at Level 2 and won't draw down the battery much except in the first few minutes IME.
 
Pipcecil said:
In actuallity, it does NOT pull directly off the house, that would require additional wires in the car, basicly wiring from the on board charger and the inverter and going directly to the heat/cool instead of the OBC, inverter, battery then heat/cool (current set up).

So the heat/cool pulls directly from the battery and the incoming power from the house recharges the battery as its being depleted. If the power draw is too much to keep up the battery remains slightly deficient and hence the lower SoC. This is also proven with the Leaf Spy app tapping into the # of Level 1/Level 2 charges, if you preheat after the car has been full (either 80% or 100%), the car counts it as another charging event (pretty sure unless I was seeing something else on that #).

In addition if it was running directly off the home power, it would just use less when the car had reach the target temperature, but if you had set your car at 80% charge and you preheat/cool and you reach your temperature and use less power, the car will keep charging the battery (at full power) until you stop the preheat/cool, which could leave your battery at a greater than 80% capacity.

This is actually quite contrary to Nissan's statements of "not top off the battery" but "preheat/cool to get greater range" You can't have both.


It has nothing to do with extra wiring, the charger supplies power to the car for any load beyond the charge load. If the pack is full the charger will cover that load directly from mains power. There is no wiring change required to do this. The OP's issue is just a lack of 240V power clearly. If a heat load is 3kw at a given time and the supply is 6.6kw then the charger is directly powered from the house not the pack.
 
Pipcecil said:
In actuallity, it does NOT pull directly off the house, that would require additional wires in the car, basicly wiring from the on board charger and the inverter and going directly to the heat/cool instead of the OBC, inverter, battery then heat/cool (current set up).

So the heat/cool pulls directly from the battery and the incoming power from the house recharges the battery as its being depleted. If the power draw is too much to keep up the battery remains slightly deficient and hence the lower SoC. This is also proven with the Leaf Spy app tapping into the # of Level 1/Level 2 charges, if you preheat after the car has been full (either 80% or 100%), the car counts it as another charging event (pretty sure unless I was seeing something else on that #).

In addition if it was running directly off the home power, it would just use less when the car had reach the target temperature, but if you had set your car at 80% charge and you preheat/cool and you reach your temperature and use less power, the car will keep charging the battery (at full power) until you stop the preheat/cool, which could leave your battery at a greater than 80% capacity.

This is actually quite contrary to Nissan's statements of "not top off the battery" but "preheat/cool to get greater range" You can't have both.


It has nothing to do with extra wiring, the charger supplies power to the car for any load beyond the charge load. If the pack is full the charger will cover that load directly from mains power. There is no wiring change required to do this. The OP's issue is just a lack of 240V power clearly. If a heat load is 3kw at a given time and the supply is 6.6kw then the heater is directly powered from the house not the pack.
 
stjohnh said:
If you use the L1 120 v EVSE "brick" that comes with the car, you will drain the battery some during pre-heat

At least for MY13, the LEAF heater is set to NOT to drain the battery when plugged into 120v. This applies whether you activate the heat from within a LEAF in "ON" mode, or when pre-heating.

In my case, this means that once the temperature drops below the high 20's, the heater will only blow cold air if the car is plugged into 120v. Since I only have L1, I cannot pre-heat for much of the Winter, unless I make a special trip to the vehicle to unplug it first!
 
Even with a Level 2 my car (in a 40's degree garage) cannot keep up in 30 minutes time I give it in the morning. I start ~5-6% down (this is with a 3.3kW OBC). But yes, I double checked this morning, the car counts the preheat/cool as a separate charging event. Way to inflate those charging numbers!
 
Pipcecil said:
Even with a Level 2 my car (in a 40's degree garage) cannot keep up in 30 minutes time I give it in the morning. I start ~5-6% down (this is with a 3.3kW OBC). But yes, I double checked this morning, the car counts the preheat/cool as a separate charging event. Way to inflate those charging numbers!

Worst I have done is 97% with a level one in a garage where it is about -10 out (yesterday is a good example). I only have the 3.3 as well
 
I concur with the 6.6 240v folks... when I used to charge to 80 every morning... the climate timer... 2013, set to about 74F, would run for 20-40 min before departure... occasionally with all seat heaters on also... and the car would consistently gain extra charge before we left.
 
Berlino said:
At least for MY13, the LEAF heater is set to NOT to drain the battery when plugged into 120v. This applies whether you activate the heat from within a LEAF in "ON" mode, or when pre-heating.

In my case, this means that once the temperature drops below the high 20's, the heater will only blow cold air if the car is plugged into 120v. Since I only have L1, I cannot pre-heat for much of the Winter, unless I make a special trip to the vehicle to unplug it first!


I think you are missing out. I only use the level 1 charger myself, and I have at MOST lost 3% of my battery to preheating. This morning, with a balmy 5 degrees out, it heated up my car just fine and was even still at 100%!
 
Can we just turn on the heater manually, while plugged into a 30A L2 EVSE? We have a Leaf S with the charger option, and a JuiceBox Premium.

Or, do we have to use the climate timer? I tried turning on the heater, and it blows cold air. The electric rear defroster works, but not the windshield defroster and the cabin heater did not work.
 
NeilBlanchard said:
Can we just turn on the heater manually, while plugged into a 30A L2 EVSE? We have a Leaf S with the charger option, and a JuiceBox Premium.

Or, do we have to use the climate timer? I tried turning on the heater, and it blows cold air. The electric rear defroster works, but not the windshield defroster and the cabin heater did not work.
When plugged into L2 the heater will only work if the vehicle contactor is closed.
If the vehicle is charging then the contactor is closed and you can put your foot on the brake and hit the start button once and then turn the heater on.
As long as it is charging the heater will work.
But if charging stops the heater will too.
Plus the vehicle isn't in Ready mode, it is in On mode and rather than keep the 12 volt charged it will let voltage sag badly to 10.48 volts before it starts recharging it.
Very bad practice that will severely shorten 12 volt battery life.

If you want heat while plugged in better to set preheat timer. You have an S so you don't have the app or Internet Carwings options to start the heater.
 
EVDRIVER said:
Pipcecil said:
In actuallity, it does NOT pull directly off the house, that would require additional wires in the car, basicly wiring from the on board charger and the inverter and going directly to the heat/cool instead of the OBC, inverter, battery then heat/cool (current set up).

So the heat/cool pulls directly from the battery and the incoming power from the house recharges the battery as its being depleted. If the power draw is too much to keep up the battery remains slightly deficient and hence the lower SoC. This is also proven with the Leaf Spy app tapping into the # of Level 1/Level 2 charges, if you preheat after the car has been full (either 80% or 100%), the car counts it as another charging event (pretty sure unless I was seeing something else on that #).

In addition if it was running directly off the home power, it would just use less when the car had reach the target temperature, but if you had set your car at 80% charge and you preheat/cool and you reach your temperature and use less power, the car will keep charging the battery (at full power) until you stop the preheat/cool, which could leave your battery at a greater than 80% capacity.

This is actually quite contrary to Nissan's statements of "not top off the battery" but "preheat/cool to get greater range" You can't have both.


It has nothing to do with extra wiring, the charger supplies power to the car for any load beyond the charge load. If the pack is full the charger will cover that load directly from mains power. There is no wiring change required to do this. The OP's issue is just a lack of 240V power clearly. If a heat load is 3kw at a given time and the supply is 6.6kw then the charger is directly powered from the house not the pack.

my car acts like the OPs. EVERY time, I use heat, I get lower than normal "full" readings. I tried preheating for 15 mins and it was not enough to restart the charging process so I don't do it anymore.
 
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