How to replace pack myself with salvaged unit?

Interesting. Hmm. That means In theory you could swap packs at a mom and pop mechanic and then drive it to a dealer to have that reset. Can that be reset?

It's likely a result of the high numbers and bad driving conditions. A huge portion of the leased LEAFs in the USA go to Norway after lease end. They are bought at auction by individuals and sent over, thousands in fact.[/quote]


Glad my 2011 Leaf with 22k miles will find a good home in Norway.

Ah, I've just found something that will almost definitely stop you from putting a salvaged pack in your LEAF as a complete unit that includes the salvaged pack's BMS.

You already know that the replacement pack needs to be registered in the VCM, right? Well to do this with a new pack, the new pack should come with a IC type security card which stores the battery's ID information. No battery ID on a chip...no new battery registered in your VCM.

So without the BMS from older packs being transferable to newer packs (and I very much doubt that's possible) it would appear that we won't be able to put salvaged 2015 Lizard packs in 2011 and 2012 LEAFs. Sigh. Well, unless there is a way to get that information from the original car's VCM and write it to an IC card in the format expected by Consult. Or perhaps you could do as offpist suggests and swap all the modules from the 2015 pack into the old pack's case (if that's actually possible).

And in addition to registering the pack/BMS with the VCM, THIS is where one really needs the Gradual Capacity Loss Data cleared (to see the replacement pack's full capacity immediately).

If you want more edification, search Google for Nissan LEAF "Li-ion Battery Registration Operation Manual"

where find “Li-ion Battery Registration Operation Manual"? google hasn't it

NetHorror said:

where find “Li-ion Battery Registration Operation Manual"? google hasn't it

Click to expand...

Try this: http://www.manualslib.com/manual/563533/Nissan-Electric-Power-Train.html?page=85

The 'Li-ion Battery Registration Operation Manual' is referred to in several places in the Leaf Service Manual, but it doesn't appear to be readily available anywhere. Any even if someone did manage to find a copy of this, it would be of no use without the 'Battery Registration Card' which is a PC Security Card that must be inserted into the laptop that is running Consult 3+. From what I've seen, that card is quite rare and expensive to get one. I don't think that this card actually stores the new BMS ID, but just allows you to access that part of Consult 3+ where it tells the VCM to learn the new BMS ID.

The other option mentioned already which is time consuming but free is to split your battery pack open and put your original BMS in the new battery pack. The wiring for the all BMS from 2011-2016 appears to be the same except the 2013 and later battery packs have only 3 temperature sensors whereas the earlier packs had 4 temp sensors. So early BMS would throw a fault for the missing sensor if used with a late battery pack. There is also two different keyings options I've seen on one of the connectors on the BMS so in that case you would need to swap wiring as well as the BMS which would obviously be even more work. Finally the 2011-2012 packs mount into the car slightly differently but Nissan has as retrofit kit to fit the later 2013- packs to the earlier cars - they had to make this because they fit the newer packs to everything under warranty. The parts they recommend for the 2011-2012 cars are:

2 x 740D0-3NF1A BRKT ASSY - BAT MTG (support brackets)
4 x 01125-N0111- 740D0-3NF1A BOLT -FLG, HEX
1 x 24220-7S020 BRAKE CABLE STANDOFF
1 x 748N3-3NF0A Cover (not sure if this is really required or not)
The service disconnect switch is also different between old and new style, but presumably that would come with the new battery.

Ideally with any HV battery swaps you should get the dealer or someone with Consult 3+ to clear the 'BATTERY GRADUAL CAP LOSS DATA'. We obviously know that the BMS will learn a decrease in battery health over time, but do we actually know for sure that it will self learn an improvement in battery health without the cap loss data being cleared first?

I have a 50k mile 2012 leaf and a fresher 2013 pack with all brackets and connectors it came out with.

I would like to make this similar swap.

Any images to go with the new battery install kit pieces?

If a simple physical swap and adaptation works where the computers slowly update to the new pack over time. I would forgo the dealer reset.

Any image details on a 2012 vs 2013 mounting and hookup differences?

Is there a way to force the car to reboot/reset everything?

I seem to recall readig some procedure where you disconnect / reconnect the 12v battery with specified timing and iterval to effect a reset?